DROPS / 194 / 26

Amethyst Amour by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk with garter stitch and lace pattern.

Tags: lace, shawls,
DROPS design: Pattern z-836
Yarn group A + A or C

Height measured along the middle stitch: approx. 62 cm
Length measured along the top side: approx. 210 cm
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200 g colour 3800, old pink
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g colour 05, heather


15 stitches in width and 29 rows vertically in garter stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm, length 80 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.

See diagrams A.1-A.6. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

To avoid at tight edge at the bottom of shawl cast off with a larger sized needle. NOTE: If the edge still is tight make yarn overs and cast them off as stitches evenly along the cast off.




Work back and forth, top down on circular needle in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit yarn overs to make holes when increasing.

Cast on 5 stitches with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk on circular needle size 6 mm. Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 9 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle stitch, this should follow up along the piece and marks middle stitch. Middle stitch is worked in stocking stitch, knit the other stitches on every row (= garter stitch).

ROW 1 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit until middle stitch, purl middle stitch, knit until 1 stitch remains, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 2 stitches increased and 11 stitches on needle.

ROW 2 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit until stitch marker, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, knit until 1 stitch remains, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 4 stitches increased.

ROW 3 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit until middle stitch, purl middle stitch, knit until 1 stitch remains, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 2 stitches increased. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Then repeat ROWS 2 and 3 until there are 311 stitches on needle.

Work according to diagrams A.1-A.6 from right side: Work A.1 over 7 stitches, work A.2 over the next 144 stitches (= 8 times in total), A.3 over 4 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), work A.4 over 4 stitches, work A.5 over the next 144 stitches (= 8 times in total) and work A.6 over 7 stitches.
Work diagrams 1 time vertically = 395 stitches on needle. Read CAST-OFF TIP above and loosely cast off on next row from right side. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.10.2018
Correction: Cast on 5 stitches with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk on circular needle size 6 mm
Updated online: 11.12.2018
Correction: Work diagrams 1 time vertically = 395 stitches on needle


= knit from right side, knit from wrong side
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, knit yarn over on next row (= should make a hole)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Isabelle Maillard 14.04.2020 - 18:35:

Bonsoir,je suis à l'endroit où je dois commencer le diagramme. J'ai le bon nombre de mailles. Je fais le 1er rang sans problème, le second rang avec jetés au début, au milieu et à la fin du rang (soit 4 jetés). Mais pour le troisième rang je ne peux avoir 18 mailles, puisque en faisant 2 X 2 mailles ensemble et 2 X un jeté, une maille et le jeté par dessus la maille, je n'ai plus 14 mailles.... Pouvez-vous m'aider ? A l'avance merci !

DROPS Design 15.04.2020 kl. 08:03:

Bonjour Mme Maillard, je ne suis pas sûre de quel diagramme vous parlez ici, essayez de mettre un marqueur après chacun des diagrammes tricotés pour bien repérer votre nombre de mailles à chaque fois. A.2 et A.5 doivent toujours avoir 18 mailles. Le nombre de mailles dans A.1 et A.3 A.6 augmente tous les 2 rangs et celui de A.1 et A.6 augmente tous les rangs. Avec des marqueurs vous pourrez mieux vérifier votre nombre de mailles à chaque rang. Bon tricot!

Grete Bernhardsen 19.02.2020 - 13:56:

Får ikke diagrammet til å stemme. Etter å ha strikket 1.omgang på rettsiden er det jo for få masker til å fortsette strikk etter diagrammet antall masker. Felles jo masker i alle delene av diagrammet A1 tom A6. Hva er det jeg ikke skjønner??

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 08:25:

Hej Grete, Husk at du strikker diagrammet fra nederste højre hjørne mod venstre fra retsiden, og næste pind fra vrangen. Alle de sorte prikker er omslag, de yderste omslag i hver side er udtagninger og alle de andre udligner hver indtagning, det vil sige at du har et omslag ifølge diagrammet for hver indtagning. God fornøjelse!

Amélie Giglio 06.11.2019 - 15:11:

En fait, sur le premier rang, ne serait ce que pour a1, quand je tricote je fait 8mailles au lieu de 7. 1 m endroit, 1 jeté, 1 maille endroit, 2m ens endroit, 1 jeté, 1 maille endroit, 2 m ens end, 1 jeté = 8 mailles non? C'est la qu'est mon erreur... J'ajoute une maille à tous les diagramme et je ne sais pas pourquoi ?

DROPS Design 06.11.2019 kl. 16:43:

Bonjour Mme Giglio, c'est tout à fait normal car on va augmenter dans A.1 et A.3: A.1 se tricote au 1er rang sur 7 mailles, mais on augmente 1 m et on a 8 m dans A.1 à la fin de ce premier rang. De même pour A.3: on le tricote sur 4 m, mais on augmente 1 m, on va donc avoir 5 m dans A.3. Placez bien vos marqueurs pour délimiter les diagrammes, vous verrez le nombre de mailles de A.1 et A.3 augmenter (celui de A.2 doit rester le même = vous devez toujours avoir 18 m dans chaque A.2) comme dans les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

Amélie Giglio 06.11.2019 - 10:43:

Bonjour, me voilà embêtée, j'ai 311 mailles avant de débuter le point ajouré. J'arrive à faire le diagramme a1, a2 8fois et il ne me reste que 2 mailles avant ma maille centrale ! Donc je ne peux pas faire a3. Je pense que j'ai mal compris qqch à la première ligne du diagramme.. (j'ai recompté les mailles le compte est bon, et le nombre de maille du diagramme aussi, mais je dois ajouté des mailles qq part) pouvez vous m'aider ? Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 06.11.2019 kl. 12:18:

Bonjour Mme Giglio, tricotez les 311 m ainsi: A.7 = 7 m, répétez A.2 sur les 144 m suivantes, A.3 = 4 m, 1 m centrale, A.4 = 4 m, répétez A.5 sur les 144 m suivantes, A.6 = 7 m, vous devez ainsi avoir: 7+144+4+1+4+144+7=311 m. Bon tricot!

Iris Danner 14.10.2019 - 20:37:

Ich habe eine bitte,Ich komme mit dem abzeichnen des Diagramm nicht zurecht,kann im moment leider nicht drucken ( Drucker kaputt ) Besteht die Möglichkeit,das sie mir die Diagramme A1-A6 zusenden können.für ihre Hilfe bedanke ich mich ganz herzlich.iris Danner

DROPS Design 15.10.2019 kl. 09:48:

Liebe Frau Danner, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, sicher können sie Ihnen weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Helena 05.09.2019 - 09:41:

Eine Frage: Werden die Umschläge beim Zunehmen verschränkt abgestreckt oder nicht? Liebe Grüße :)

DROPS Design 05.09.2019 kl. 13:25:

Liebe Helena, die Umschläge beim Zunehmen werden rechts gestrickt, es sollen Löcher entstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sigrid Kirss 23.08.2019 - 16:15:

Tere! Kui mul on 311 silmust koos siis ta on juba kolmnurkne ja kas selleks et teha skeeme A1-7 lõpetan ma 311 silmust ära ning korjan alt äärest ülesse uued silmused?

DROPS Design 12.09.2019 kl. 14:09:

Tere! Skeemide muster kootakse kohe olemasoleva 311 silmuse kohale. Head kudumist!

Peggy Slife 22.06.2019 - 21:30:

I am having trouble with the diagrams. For me it would be easier if each step was show for each of the different stitches.

DROPS Design 23.06.2019 kl. 08:39:

Dear Peggy, you can find links for tutorial videos on how to do the stitches used in the lacepattern just below the picture of the modell on the left side of the page. Happy Knitting!

Verónica 10.04.2019 - 20:26:

Hola, tengo una duda sobre la lana. ¿Porqué en los materiales ponéis dos tipos? Según se ve en la foto, sólo hay un tipo de lana ¿no? Gracias

DROPS Design 17.04.2019 kl. 08:45:

Hola Veronica! La pieza se teje con 1 hilo de cada calidad (2 hilos junto). Tiene que utilisar DROPS Alpaca y DROPS Kid-Silk junto. Buen trabajo!

Helena 03.03.2019 - 09:44:

Ich verstehe die Zunahme zu Beginn (bis 311 M) nicht. Wenn ich am Anfang und Ende jeder Hin- u. R-Reihe einen Umschlag arbeite, den ich rechts abstricke und nicht verschränkt, bilden sich dort doch riesige Löcher? Das ist aber auf dem Foto nicht zu sehen. Stimmt das also wirklich? Vielen Dank schonmal!

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 10:00:

Liebe Helena, beachten Sie, daß Ihre Umschläge nicht zu locker sind, sie werden dann bei der nächsten Reihe rechts gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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