DROPS / 196 / 6

Winter Carnival by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, Nordic pattern and A-shape. Sizes S - XXXL. Knitted hat in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked with Nordic pattern and stripes.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-857
Yarn group B
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YARN FOR WHOLE SET:
Sizes: S - M - L - L/XL - XL/XXL - XXL/XXXL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 54/56 - 56/58 - 56/58 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 77, light oak
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour 50, sea green
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 01, off white
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 11, orange
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 47, forest green
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 48, wine red
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 52, dark mustard
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 30, light denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 33, medium pink

YARN FOR JUMPER:
Sizes: S - M - L – L/XL – XL/XXL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 77, light oak
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 50, sea green
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 01, off white
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 47, forest green
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 48, wine red
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 11, orange
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 30, light denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 52, dark mustard
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 33, medium pink

YARN FOR HAT:
Sizes: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-50-50 g colour 77, light oak
50-50-50 g colour 50, sea green
50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50 g colour 11, orange
50-50-50 g colour 48, wine red
50-50-50 g colour 52, dark mustard
50-50-50 g colour 30, light denim blue
50-50-50 g colour 33, medium pink

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

JUMPER:

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 104 stitches) and and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4.3. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round.
Start from the right side with light oak and knit 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 48-51-54-57-60-63 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 80-85-90-95-100-105 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 96-102-108-114-120-126 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit to mid back. Then work YOKE as described in text.
 
PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagrams A.5 and A.6.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a larger needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.
It is also important to maintain the knitting tension in height, or the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small!

DECREASE TIP-1 (for mid under sleeve): 
Start 2 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for top of hat):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-124-128 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and sea green. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2). When you have worked 1 round with sea green change to light oak. Continue the rib until the neck measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 24-26-28-28-28-32 stitches evenly on round - read INCREASE TIP = 128-134-140-144-152-160 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
You can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the back of the yoke is slightly higher. You can leave out this elevation; the neck will then be the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above or go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 2 rounds stocking stitch with light oak. Then work A.1 in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on each round with an arrow in A.1, increase evenly on round as described below - remember INCREASE TIP.
On round marked with arrow-1 increase 32-34-36-40-40-40 stitches evenly on round = 160-168-176-184-192-200 stitches (there is room for 20-21-22-23-24-25 repeats of 8 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-2 increase 32-36-40-44-48-52 stitches evenly on round = 192-204-216-228-240-252 stitches (there is room for 32-34-36-38-40-42 repeats of 6 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-3 increase 24-30-36-36-42-42 stitches evenly on round = 216-234-252-264-282-294 stitches (there is room for 36-39-42-44-47-49 repeats of 6 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-4 increase 20-26-28-28-30-34 stitches evenly on round = 236-260-280-292-312-328 stitches (there is room for 59-65-70-73-78-82 repeats of 4 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-5 increase 16-20-20-24-24-28 stitches evenly on round = 252-280-300-316-336-356 stitches (there is room for 63-70-75-79-84-89 repeats of 4 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-6 increase 16-16-16-20-24-28 stitches evenly on round = 268-296-316-336-360-384 stitches (there is room for 67-74-79-28-30-32 repeats of 4-4-4-12-12-12 stitches).
When the last row of A.1 is left, the piece measures 23-23-25-27-27-30 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
The last round is worked as follows: Knit 41-44-46-49-54-59 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 52-60-66-70-72-74 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side mid under sleeve), knit 82-88-92-98-108-118 stitches (= front piece), place the next 52-60-66-70-72-74 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 41-44-46-49-54-59 stitches (= back piece). Cut the strand.
Body and sleeves are now finished separately.

BODY:
= 180-192-204-216-240-264 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the one sleeve and start the round at this marker thread. The first round is worked as follows:
SIZES XS/S - S/M - L/XL - XL/XXL: Work A.2 in the round (= 15-16-18-20 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round (= 15-16-18-20 repeats of 12 stitches). Continue A.3 as described under ALL SIZES.
SIZES M/L - XXL/XXXL: Work A.3 in the round (= 17-22 repeats of 12 stitches). Continue A.3 as described under ALL SIZES!
ALL SIZES:
Continue A.3 as described above. AT THE SAME TIME on the round marked with arrow-7 increase 12-16-12-16-16-16 evenly on round = 192-208-216-232-256-280 stitches (there is now room for 24-26-27-29-32-35 repeats of 8 stitches). On the round marked with arrow-8 increase 12-8-12-8-8-8 stitches evenly on round = 204-216-228-240-264-288 stitches (there is now room for 34-36-38-40-44-48 repeats of 6 stitches). On the round marked with arrow-9 increase 12-0-12-0-0-0 stitches evenly on round in all sizes = 216-216-240-240-264-288 stitches (there is now room for 54-54-60-60-66-72 repeats of 4 stitches). When A.3 has been completed, work A.4 in the round in all sizes (= 9-9-10-10-11-12 repeats of 24 stitches). When A.4 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 59-59-61-63-63-66 cm from the shoulder down (approx. 33 cm from the division in all sizes). XS/S is now finished, ready for the rib. In the other sizes, repeat A.4 until the piece measures approx. 35-35-35-37-36 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). NOTE: Finish after a whole stripe or pattern – if you do not want pattern all the way down to the rib, you can continue with stocking stitch and light oak when you have completed A.4 for the first time.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 round with light oak where you increase 56-56-60-60-64-72 stitches evenly on round = 272-272-300-300-328-360 stitches. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight (if the cast-off edge is tight you can make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off - yarn overs cast off as normal stitches). The jumper measures approx. 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 52-60-66-70-72-74 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4.5 mm and in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-68-76-80-84-88 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve, i.e. insert the marker thread in the first stitch after the middle, count 29-33-37-39-41-43 stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch (= mid-stitch). There are now 29-33-37-39-41-43 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards. The marker thread under the sleeve will be used a little later when decreasing and the marker thread on top of sleeve will be used to count where the pattern starts.
READ THE REST OF SLEEVE BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work the last row of A.1 so that A.1 finishes in the same way as the body.
PATTERN:
SIZES XS/S, S/M, L/XL and XL/XXL: Work A.2 in the round (= 9-9-11-12 repeats of 8 stitches), but make sure that A.2 in L/XL and XL/XXL fits neatly over A.1 on the yoke (you will not get a complete repeat of the pattern under the sleeve).
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3, but count out from the mid-stitch where the pattern should start - mid-stitch in A.3 should match the stitch with the marker thread mid top of sleeve (in L/XL and XL/XXL the first 3 rounds in A.3 need to be adjusted so that they fit neatly over A.1/A.2). Continue as described under ALL SIZES!
SIZES M/L and XXL/XXXL: When the last row in A.1 has been completed, work A.3, but count out from the mid-stitch where the pattern should start - mid-stitch in A.3 should match the stitch with the marker thread mid top of sleeve (in XXL/XXXL XXL the first 3 rounds in A.3 need to be adjusted so that they fit neatly over A.1/A.2). Continue as described under ALL SIZES!
ALL SIZES:
When A.3 has been completed, work A.4, then continue with stocking stitch and light oak.
DECREASE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 1 cm a total of 3-5-6-6-6-7 times and then every 5-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm a total of 6-7-9-10-11-11 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches.
When the sleeve measures approx. 36-36-35-33-33-31 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) knit 1 round with light oak where you increase 10-8-10-8-10-8 stitches evenly on round in all sizes = 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 6 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight (if the cast-off edge is tight you can make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off - yarn overs cast off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 42-42-41-39-39-37 cm from the division and down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 108-108-116 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and sea green. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2). When you have worked 1 round of rib, change to light oak. Continue the rib until the piece measures 4 cm from the cast-on edge. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly on round = 104-104-112 stitches.
Then work A.5 in the round (= 13-13-14 repeats of 8 stitches). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.5 has been completed, work A.6 in the round. A.6 is repeated to finished length. When the piece measures 21-22-23 cm insert 8 marker threads in the piece as follows: The first marker thread is inserted at the beginning of the round. The next 7 marker threads are inserted with 13-13-14 stitches between each one.
On the next round, decrease 1 stitch before each of the 8 marker threads – read DECREASE TIP = 8 stitches decrease. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 6-6-5 times and then every round a total of 2-2-4 times = 40 stitches left for all sizes. Knit 2 rounds where all the stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 on both rounds = 10 stitches left for all sizes. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 26-27-28 cm from the top down.

Diagram

= light oak
= dark mustard
= orange
= sea green
= off white
= wine red
= medium pink
= forest green
= light denim blue
= increase round
= mid stitch on sleeve




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Comments / Questions (65)

Sarah 03.08.2020 - 10:05:

Hi, I would like to use my leftovers (Karisma and Lima) to knit this jumper. Can I safely mix Karisma and Lima or is it better to use only one of the wools ? Thank you for your advice!

DROPS Design 03.08.2020 kl. 13:20:

Dear Sarah, Karisma and Lima are both yarn group B - you should have same tension with same needles, but to be sure you will love the result, do not hesitate to work a swatch with both yarns first. Happy knitting!

Hanne Kidmose 24.06.2020 - 21:50:

Jeg er muligvis fatsvag.. Men hvad gør når jeg har fulgt ALLE udtagninger, antal masker ud... At jeg ender med i str L... At jeg har 399 masker istedet for 300 ved pil 5??? Fatter ikke noget..

DROPS Design 25.06.2020 kl. 08:23:

Hej Efter halskanten är stickad har du 140 m. Vid pil 1 ökas 36 m, vid pil 2 ökas 40 m, vid pil 3 ökas 36 m, vid pil 4 ökas 28 m och vid pil 5 ökas 20 m. 140+36+40+36+28+20= 300 m. Mvh DROPS Design

Ingebjørg Aggvin 21.05.2020 - 21:44:

Kan eg kjøpe garn berre til genser her? Ikkje lue. Prisi

DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 14:36:

Hej Ingebjørg, ja du kan se garnforbruget hvor det står GARN TIL GENSER så det bestemmer du selv. Klik på varekurven i opskriften :)

Cathie Palmer 30.04.2020 - 19:08:

There is a mistake with the sleeve, size M, 68 st so should be 34 st each side of counters not 33, if you have the correct 68 st and Dec every 1cm 5 times (10 st) and then every 3 1/2 cm 8 times (16 st) you have dec 26 st (26 from 68 =42) not 44 st ( if you only have 66 st to start with then you would have 40 st.) Plus it decreases too quickly and you end up with a very tight sleeve. I have Dec once every 3 cm all the way down to 44 St and this seams a much nicer fit.

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 14:29:

Dear Mrs Palmer, you insert a marker in the first stitch after middle (= 5th of the 8 sts cast on mid under sleeve), count 33 sts, add a marker in next stitch, count 33 = 1+33+1+33= 68 sts. The decreases will be check and corrected, thanks for your feedback. Happy knitting!

Elisabeth Gran 25.03.2020 - 10:10:

Hei. jeg er igang med denne fargeglade genseren :). Har strikket fra toppen og er på selve bolen etter at masker er satt av til ermer. Men nå undrer jeg meg over at jeg skal legge opp masker under ermene og videre nedover. Vil ikke det gi en fasong som blir videre og videre nedover? Kan jeg eventuelt bare beholde antall masker for å få en litt rettere fasong?

DROPS Design 25.03.2020 kl. 13:49:

Hej Elisabeth, jo men det gør du for at genseren skal få en bedre pasform, den bliver helt enkelt dejligere at have på. God fornøjelse! Fordelen ved at strikke ovenfra og ned er at du kan prøve genseren på. Sæt en masse rundpinde i genseren og sæt en strikk i hver ende så maskerne ikke falder af piden når du prøver. God fornøjelse!

Anna Strand 05.03.2020 - 18:44:

Hei! Borden etter økning nr. 5 på bærestykket med sennepsgul og sjøgrønn er ikke lik på bildet og i mønsteret. Ble litt forvirret av dette. Mvh Anna Strand

Kjersti Eide 15.02.2020 - 13:52:

Finnes det oppskrift til denne genseren i"normal" vei. Dette blir litt for avansert for meg

DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 09:31:

Hej Kjersti, det er enkelt, se her hvordan man gør: Hvordan strikke en genser ovenfra og ned

Regina Pfadenhauer 14.02.2020 - 16:26:

Meiner Meinung nach ist im Ärmel Größe XL-XXL ein Fehler. Die 72 stillgelegten M und die 12 M sind 84 M. Der Mrkierungfaden soll doch unten in die Mitte also nach 6 M und von den 72 M in die Mitte, also nach 36 M. Das sind doch dann von unten Mitte bis 0ben Mitte 42 M - oder?. Soll das Muster 2 und A 3 immer von der oberen Mitte aus gerechnet werden? Wieso steht dann nochmal Größe L-XXL/XXXL nach A1, A3 stricken?. Verstehe ich nicht ganz. Danke für die Hilfe.

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 07:56:

Liebe Frau Pfadenhauer, bei XL-XXL stricken Sie bei den Ärmeln zuerst die letzte Reihe von A.1 dann stricken Sie A.2 aber das Diagram schön über A.1 anpassen (siehe A.1 für XXL/XXXL), dann nach A.2 stricken Sie A.3 und bei A.3 muss die Mittelmasche von A.3 die mit der Markierungsfaden (=also 6 + 36 M) aber die ersten 3 Runden so anpassen daß A.3 schön über A.1/A.2 liegt (die 6. Masche in A.2 muss die Masche mit dem Dreiecken in A.3 sein). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Katrine Harjar 11.02.2020 - 09:45:

Ermene i størrelse L skal ta siste raden i A1 og fortsette på A3. A2 skal ikke være i ermene i str L. Ikke i følge oppskrifta. Mønsteret går ikke opp fra 4.rad på A.3 på ermene i str L. Er det riktig?

DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 08:59:

Hej Katrine, Det stemmer at du ikke strikker A.2 i str L. Mønsteret skal stemme med at midterste maske i A.3 skal være midterste maske på ærmet. Det vil ikke stemme under ærmet, det er også her du tager ind. God fornøjelse!

Katrine Harjar 10.02.2020 - 20:19:

Mønsteret går ikke opp fra 4.rad på A.3 på ermene i str L. Er det riktig?

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