DROPS / 187 / 24

Quartier Latin by DROPS Design

Jumper with stripes, lace pattern, long vent and ¾ sleeves, crocheted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Paris.

DROPS design: Pattern w-676
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour 30, grey blue
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 26, dark beige
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 17, off white
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour 60, dark old pink
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 41, mustard
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 59, light old pink
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 35, vanilla
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 32, light blue purple

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 mm - or size needed to get 13 treble crochets x 8 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.15£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

CROCHET INFO:
At beginning of every row with treble crochets replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish row with 1 treble crochet in 3rd or 2nd chain stitch from beginning of previous row (depending on whether previous round began with 3 or 2 chain stitches).
On every row with double crochets replace first double crochet with 2 chain stitches. Finish row with 1 double crochet in 3rd or 2nd chain stitch from beginning of previous row.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

STRIPES BODY:
Stripes are explained below - rows are numbered in A.1, A.2 and A.3.
1-4: grey blue
5: light old pink
6: dark old pink
7: off white
8: mustard
9: vanilla
10-11: dark beige
12: off white
13: light old pink
14: light blue purple
15: grey blue
16: vanilla
17: dark beige
18: dark old pink
19: mustard
20: light old pink
21-22: off white
23: dark beige
24: mustard
25: light blue purple
26-30: grey blue
31: dark beige
32: dark old pink
33: mustard
34: light old pink
35-36: off white
37: dark beige
38: mustard
39: light old pink
40: dark old pink

STRIPES SLEEVE:
Stripes are explained below - rows are numbered in A.1, A.2 and A.3.
7: off white
8: mustard
9: vanilla
10-11: dark beige
12: off white
13: light old pink
14: light blue purple
15: grey blue
16: vanilla
17: dark beige
18: dark old pink
19: mustard
20: light old pink
21-22: off white
23: dark beige
24: mustard
25: light blue purple

COLOUR CHANGE TIP:
To get a nice transition when switching colour work last yarn over and pull through on last stitch before switching colour with the new colour, then continue with the new colour.

TIP FOR FASTENING STRANDS:
To avoid sewing many strands after colour change work the first 2 treble crochets/double crochets at beginning of every row with new colour with double yarn (in the same colour). This is done as follows: Make sure to leave a long yarn end (approx. 20-25 cm) when switching colour, work yarn end together with strand from ball. Then place yarn end along stitches from previous row and work around it so that the yarn end is hidden inside the stitches. In addition should the yarn end left at the end of row also be placed along the stitches when turning the piece to work around this yarn end as well. The way the strands are fastened without using a needle.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch in each side inside the 2 outermost stitches in each side. Decrease by skipping last stitch in each side before the 2 outermost stitches. It is difficult to predict where the decrease is done in the pattern, the decreases are therefore not in any chart, but try to adjust to a row with treble crochets/chain stitch (not large chain spaces).

INCREASE TIP (applies to bottom of sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch by working 2 double crochets in 1 stitch.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Work front and back piece back and forth in parts. First work right shoulder at the front with increase for neck, then work left shoulder at the front with increase for neck before pieces are put together then work back and forth until finished measurements. Work back piece the same way. Work sleeves back and forth, top down.

RIGHT SHOULDER FRONT (when garment is worn):
Read CROCHET INFO and COLOUR CHANGE TIP! Work 36-36-36-44-44-44 chain stitches on hook size 5.5 mm with grey blue. Work first row as follows from wrong side: Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire row = 26-26-26-32-32-32 treble crochets on row.
Then work STRIPES BODY - see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME work pattern as explained below.
Work first row as follows from right side (with grey blue): Work A.1A (= 2 stitches), work A.1B over the next 18-18-18-24-24-24 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repetitions of 6 stitches) and finish with A.1C (= 6 stitches). Continue with stripes and pattern back and forth like this until A.1 has been worked. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Put piece aside and work left shoulder as explained below.

LEFT SHOULDER FRONT (when garment is worn):
Work 36-36-36-44-44-44 chain stitches on hook size 5.5 mm with grey blue. Work first row as follows from wrong side: Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire row = 26-26-26-32-32-32 treble crochets on row.
Then work STRIPES BODY, AT THE SAME TIME work pattern as explained below.
Work first row as follows from right side (with grey blue): Work A.1D (= 7 stitches), work A.1B over the next 12-12-12-18-18-18 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 repetitions of 6 stitches) and finish with A.1E (= 7 stitches). Continue with stripes and pattern back and forth like this until A.1 has been worked. At the end of last row work 13-19-25-19-25-31 somewhat loose chain stitches for neck. Now work parts together for front piece as explained below.

FRONT PIECE:
Begin from right side with right shoulder front, continue over chain stitches for neck (work 1 treble crochet in every chain stitch) and then work over stitches on left shoulder front as follows: Work A.2A (= 2 stitches), work A.2B over the next 60-66-72-78-84-90 stitches (= 10-11-12-13-14-15 repetitions of 6 stitches) and finish with A.2C (= 7 stitches). Continue with stripes and pattern back and forth like this. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.3 1 time vertically the same way. Then work A.2 again until 2 cm remain before finished measurements as explained further down in pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-17-20-20-22-22 cm from cast-on edge, insert 1 marker in each side to mark the armholes. Then work the 2 outermost stitches in each side with double yarn until finished measurements - read TIP FOR FASTENING STRANDS!
Then work as explained below until piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm. Switch to dark old pink and work 1 row with treble crochets - NOTE: Choose a row with treble crochets from one of the diagrams that fit where you are in repetitions to get 69-75-81-87-93-99 treble crochets on row. Fasten off. Front piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm from shoulder and down.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Work 36-36-36-44-44-44 chain stitches on hook size 5.5 mm with grey blue. Work first row as follows from wrong side: Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire row = 26-26-26-32-32-32 treble crochets on row. Put piece aside and work right shoulder back as explained below.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Work 36-36-36-44-44-44 chain stitches on hook size 5.5 mm with grey blue. Work first row as follows from wrong side: Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire row = 26-26-26-32-32-32 treble crochets on row. At the end of this row work 17-23-29-23-29-35 somewhat loose chain stitches for neck. Now work parts together for back piece as explained below.

BACK PIECE:
Begin from right side with right shoulder back, continue over chain stitches for neck and then work over stitches on left shoulder back as follows: Work A.1A (= 2 stitches), work A.1B over the next 60-66-72-78-84-90 stitches (= 10-11-12-13-14-15 repetitions of 6 stitches) and finish with A.1E (= 7 stitches). Continue with stripes and pattern back and forth like this. When A.1 has been worked, work A.2 the same way. After A.2 work A.3 the same way until A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically. Then work A.2 again until 2 cm remain before finished measurements - adjust according to front piece.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-17-20-20-22-22 cm from cast-on edge, insert 1 marker in each side to mark the armholes. Then work the 2 outermost stitches in each side with double yarn until finished measurements as on front piece.
Work until piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, adjust according to front piece. Switch to dark old pink and work 1 row with treble crochets - NOTE: Choose a row from one of the diagrams that fit where you are in repetitions to get 69-75-81-87-93-99 treble crochets on row. Fasten off. Back piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Remember TIP FOR FASTENING STRANDS! Work 61-61-69-69-77-77 chain stitches on hook size 5.5 mm with light old pink. Work first row as follows from right side: Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, work 1 treble crochet in next chain stitch, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 45-45-51-51-57-57 treble crochets on row.
Next row is worked from the wrong side: 4 chain stiches (equals to 1 treble crochet and 1 chain stitch), skip 2 treble crochets, * 2 treble crochets in the space before the next 3 treble crochets, 1 chain stitch *, work from *-* until 3 treble crochets remain on row, skip 2 treble crochets and finish with 1 treble crochet in last treble crochet = 45-45-51-51-57-57 stitches on row.
Then work STRIPES SLEEVE – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME continue pattern as on body, i.e. begin at beginning of A.2 (row 7) and work A.2. When A.2 has been worked, work the 2 first rows in A.3, then work A.2 to finished measurement (in most sizes the correct sleeve length will be finished before A.2 is done first time). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 5-4½-3½-3-2½-2½ cm 7-7-9-9-10-10 times in total in each side = 31-31-33-33-37-37 stitches on row. When sleeve measures approx. 33-31-30-28-27-26 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders) work with grey blue from now on. Work 1 row with double crochets from wrong side while increasing 2-2-6-6-8-8 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 33-33-39-39-45-45 double crochets. Work next row as follows from right side: A.1A (= 2 stitches), work A.1B over the next 24-24-30-30-36-36 stitches (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 repetitions of 6 stitches) and finish with A.1E (= 7 stitches). Continue pattern like this but finish after 3rd row in A.1. Fasten off. Sleeve measures approx. 39-37-36-34-33-32 cm from top and down. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grey blue. Sew in sleeves between the markers on front and back piece. Sew underarm and side seams in one - begin at the bottom of sleeve and sew in edge stitch but finish seam when approx. 34 cm remain for vent in each side on front and back piece. 

NECK EDGE:
Begin on shoulder and work first round as follows on hook size 5.5 mm with dark old pink: Work 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next row/chain space *, work from *-* along the entire neck, finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round. Work slip stitches until middle of first chain space, work 3 chain stitches, * 1 double crochet around next chain space, 2 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round. Fasten off.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= 3 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER IN STITCH: Work 2 treble crochets in next double crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in same stitch and pull last yarn over through all 4 loops on hook
= 3 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER AROUND CHAIN STITCH/CHAIN SPACE: Work 2 treble crochets around chain stitch/chain space but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet around same chain stitch/chain space and pull last yarn over through all 4 loops on hook
= first row is not worked, it has already been worked and only shows how next row should be worked in stitches




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (37)

Anna 15.09.2019 - 18:22:

Har en fråga angående diagram A.1B, varv 2. Jag förstår inte hur det ska göras. Kan ni vara snälla och förklara i vilken ordning de görs. Det börjar ju med två luftmaskor, men hur gör man sen? Är ju tecken för 2 st fasta maskor, sedan några lutande streck ovanför, (gissar att det är luftmaskor?), men i vilken ordning ska det vara? Har provat mig fram, men det blir inte rätt om jag jämför med den stickade bilden. Hoppas ni kan hjälpa mig.

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 10:48:

Hei Anna. Slik hekler du 2. rad i diagram A.1B: Hekle 2 luftmasker, 1 fastmaske i staven fra forrige rad, 2 luftmasker, 1 fastmaske i samme staven fra forrige rad, 2 luftmasker og 1 stav i fastmasken fra forrige rad, deretter gjentas dette over det antall masker det står i oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

Linda 21.08.2019 - 16:51:

Ich möchte den Pullover in Größe M in nur einer Farbe häkeln. Wieviel Wolle brauche ich dann? Lg

DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 09:22:

Liebe Linda, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpassen, gern wird Ihnen aber Ihr DROPS Laden - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Maria 04.07.2019 - 15:21:

Are there written instructions for this pattern please as I've never worked from a chart before.

DROPS Design 04.07.2019 kl. 16:19:

Dear Maria, you will find here how to read crochet diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Maura McFall 04.07.2019 - 01:27:

Are there any errors reported for this pattern as I don't understand the first row. Right shoulder front instructions say all treble sts across row but A.1C chart shows treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space symbol.

DROPS Design 04.07.2019 kl. 08:55:

Dear Ms. McFall, you need to read pattern chart from bottom - start in right bottom corner and go to the left. Very first row of chart (with star) is already worked - it only shows, how you crochet the first row of pattern. For more information about crochet charts you can see our lesson How to read crochet diagrams Happy crocheting!

Haliey 27.05.2019 - 07:09:

How many skeins would I need for size 3xxl in one color?

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 08:03:

Hi Mrs Haliey. You will need about 1100 g (it means 22 skeins). Happy crocheting!

Małgorzata 14.04.2019 - 21:06:

Opis dla rękawów mówi, żeby zamknąć 1 oczko z każdej strony gdy długość robótki wynosi 2 cm. Czy te 2 cm mam liczyć od początku robótki, czy od rozpoczęcia wykonywania schematu A2? I kolejne pytanie - co to znaczy zamykać oczka w odległości 2 oczek od brzegu? Czy oznacza to, że na początku rzędu mam przerobić 2 oczka i potem zamknąć następne oczko, tzn, przerobić razem trzecie i czwarte, a na końcu rzędu przerobić razem dwa oczka przed ostatnimi dwoma oczkami?

DROPS Design 15.04.2019 kl. 18:55:

Witaj Małgosiu! Pierwsze pytanie - te 2 cm liczysz od początku (góry) rękawa. Drugie pytanie - na początku rzędu: przerabiasz normalnie 2 pierwsze oczka (1 oczko w każde oczko), omijasz następne oczko (trzecie oczko w poprzednim rzędzie) i wykonujesz 1 oczko w czwarte oczko (4 oczka przechodzą w 3 oczka). Na końcu rzędu, jak zostają 3 oczka do końca: omijasz 1 oczko i przerabiasz 2 ostatnie oczka. Miłej pracy!

Małgorzata 31.03.2019 - 14:46:

Mam pytanie odnośnie połączenia ramion tyłu swetra. Wykonałam wg opisu najpierw ramie lewe, potem ramię prawe, na końcu którego wykonałam 29 oczek łańcuszka (wg opisu oba ramiona strona lewa). Dalej opis mówi, żeby zacząć od prawego ramienia na prawej stronie robótki. Kiedy obracam robótkę (to prawe ramię) to na początku jest łańcuszek a po nim dalsza część prawego ramienia, więc jak mam połączyć go z lewym?

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 20:01:

Witaj Małgosiu! Zakończyłaś prawe i lewe ramię na prawej stronie robótki, teraz połącz łańcuszek prawego ramienia z lewym ramieniem za pomocą 1 oczka zamykającego. Teraz bierzesz nową nitkę i zaczynasz kolejny rząd ponownie na prawej stronie i przerabiasz zaczynając od prawego ramienia, dalej łańcuszek i lewe ramię następująco: schemat A.1A (= 2 oczka), A.1B ponad 60-66-72-78-84-90 następnymi oczkami (= 10-11-12-13-14-15 motywów po 6 oczek) i zakończyć przerabiając A.1E (= 7 oczek). Powodzenia!

Annette 05.03.2019 - 23:41:

Ik haak maat S. Als ik de eerste toer waarbij schouder, lussen van de halen andere schouder met elkaar verbonden worden, kom ik uit op 9 herhalingen van 6 steken en eindigend op 7 steken. Moeten de losse voor de hals niet met 6 lossen vermeerderd worden?

DROPS Design 07.03.2019 kl. 20:10:

Dag Annette

Als je beide schouders hebt gehaakt heb je 69 steken op de toer: 26 van de linker schouder, 26 van de rechter schouder en 13 van de lossenlus, plus daarnaast 4 meerderingen van de laatste toer in A.1c. Dit komt precies overeen met het aantal stokjes dat je moet haken zoals beschreven onder voorpand: A.2a: 2 steken, A.2b over de volgende 60 steken en de 7 steken van A.2c.

Mia Germ 18.01.2019 - 18:28:

Zou willen vragen waarom ik mijn favorieten niet meer zien en ook niets meer erbij kan zetten , erg jammer, ga niet direct alles afdrukken , wacht tot ik een nieuw projet kan beginnen , vind niets meer terug, jammer :-)

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 11:02:

Dag Mia,

Momenteel wordt er gewerkt aan het verbeteren van het favorieten systeem. Nog even geduld :)

Cristina 27.11.2018 - 01:32:

Hola, quisiera saber si venden hilos a Argentina, gracias, saludos, Cristina

DROPS Design 04.12.2018 kl. 11:05:

Hola Cristina. En este momento no hay tiendas de Drops en Argentina. Puedes pedir los hilos en las sig tiendas: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=23

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 187-24

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.