Shark Attack Blanket by DROPS Design

Crocheted shark blanket for kids. Size 3-14 years Piece is crochet in DROPS Eskimo.

DROPS design: Pattern ee-138-bn
Yarn group E
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164. 
Measurements: Length without tail fin = 70-84-98-112-128-142 cm.
Width at the top = 81-86-90-99-103-112 cm.
Circumference before tail = 35-37-39-40-42-44 cm
Tail height = 27-31-33-35-37-39 cm.
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
400-400-450-450-550-650 g colour 46, medium grey
200-200-250-250-300-350 g colour 14, dark grey
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 02, black
50 g for all sizes in colour 01, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour 56, Christmas red

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group E)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 9 treble crochets x 5 rows with treble crochets = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets in same stitch.

CROCHET INFO:
The first double crochet on each row is replaced by 1 chain stitch.
The first treble crochet on each row is replaced by 3 chain stitches.
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BLANKET:
Body of shark is worked bottom up, it begins between body and tail fin. Then work tail fin from bottom of body and downward. The entire piece is worked back and forth.

BODY:
Work 32-34-34-36-38-40 chain stitches on hook size 8 mm with medium grey. Form a ring by working 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Then work back and forth. READ CROCHET INFO and work 1 treble crochet in each stitch the entire row = 32-34-34-36-38-40 treble crochets. Turn piece and work 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet the entire row.
On next row increase stitches evenly on row - READ INCREASE TIP! Work treble crochets and increase 8-6-6-9-7-10 treble crochets on row = 40-40-40-45-45-50 treble crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

Continue in rows like this, increase along the way - READ ENTIRE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

Increase 5 treble crochets every 4-5-6-8-7-10 cm 6-6-8-7-9-10 times in total = 70-70-80-80-90-100 treble crochets. When all increases are done work 1 row without increase, on next row work treble crochets and increase 3-7-1-9-3-1 treble crochets evenly = 73-77-81-89-93-101 treble crochets. Continue working 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until piece measures 66-80-94-108-124-138 cm.
Switch to black and work 1 row with 1 double crochet in every treble crochet. Switch red and work 1 row with 1 treble crochet in every double crochet, then work 1 row with 1 double crochet in each treble crochet.
Switch to off white and work next row as follows: 1 chain stitch,* skip 2 double crochet, in next double crochet work: 1 double treble crochet, 2 treble crochets, 1 double treble crochet, 4 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch, then work 1 slip stitch in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Cut the yarn and fasten. Body is now done.

TAIL FIN:
Place body double with vent in the middle of piece. Use dark grey and crochet hook 8 mm, work 1 row with double crochets through both layer at the bottom along the cast-on edge = 16-17-17-18-19-20 double crochets.
Then work every row as follows: 3 treble crochets in first stitch, work 1 treble crochet in every stitch until the 4 middle stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, 1 treble crochet in every stitch until last stitch and work 3 treble crochets in last stitch.
Repeat this row 13-15-16-17-18-19 times in total = piece measures approx. 26-30-32-34-36-38 cm. Switch to 2 strands black, work 1 row with 1 double crochet in every stitch. Cut the yarn and fasten.

EYES:
Work 2 eyes, fasten them with medium grey approx. 10 cm from edge at the top.
Work as follows:
Work 3 chain stitches with black on hook size 8 mm and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.
ROUND 1: Work 3 chain stitches (replaces 1st treble crochet), work 11 treble crochets around ring and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch (= 12 treble crochets). Cut the yarn and switch to off white.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch (replaces 1st double crochet), work 1 double crochet in every treble crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch (= 12 double crochets). Cut the yarn and switch medium grey.
ROUND 3: Work 1 chain stitch (replaces 1st double crochet), 1 double crochet in the same stitch, then work 2 double crochets in every double crochet rest of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch(= 24 double crochets). Cut the yarn and fasten.

VENT:
Sew vent together as far up as you want - 20-30 cm up if only feet should be covered or half way up if the vent should cover more.
Enjoy your new blanket.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.07.2019
New yarn amount:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
400-400-450-450-550-650 g colour 46, medium grey
200-200-250-250-300-350 g colour 14, dark grey

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 28-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Ginger 28.08.2019 - 19:52:

Habe den Hai gestrickt und bin mit der Anleitung gut zurechtgekommen. Aber ich hatte drei Knäuel Mittelgrau zu viel. Diese habe ich dann als Streifen im Körper verarbeitet, der ansonsten zu kurz geworden wäre. Also insgesamt alles aufgegangen. Meine Nichte hat sich auf jeden Fall gefreut.

Haré 01.07.2019 - 15:59:

Je viens de terminer le modèle en 9/10 ans et j'ai utilisé deux fois moins de laine que prévu. Je précise qu'il s'agissait bien de la laine Eskimo.

S Chyb 01.07.2019 - 09:58:

Has anyone tried knitting this?

Nadya 01.06.2019 - 13:44:

Ich habe eine Frage zu den Zunahmen für den Körper. Häkelt man jede Reihe Zunahmen oder 6 cm Reihen ohne, und dann eine Reihe mit Zunahmen? Grüße Nadya

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 09:06:

Liebe Nadya, wenn Sie 5 Stb gleichmäßig alle 6. cm zunehmen sollen, wird es so gehäkelt: *6 cm ohne Zunahmen, be der nächsten Runde 5 Stb zunehmen*, von *-* insgesamt 8 Mal wiederholen = 80 Stäbchen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Jacqueline 23.01.2019 - 20:36:

Hallo Ik ben begonnen met de deken ,, maar er staat plaats het lijf dubbel met een split in het midden . Is het dan een deken of een slaapzak omdat ik in het rond moet haken

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 17:55:

Dag Jacqueline,

Nee, het is wel een soort slaapzak hoor, maar op de plaats waar de staartvin aan de zak komt, haak je door beide lagen, zodat de onderkant van de 'slaapzak' gesloten wordt.

Joke 07.01.2019 - 12:39:

Is hier ook een patroon van voor volwassenen

DROPS Design 09.01.2019 kl. 11:16:

Dag Joke,

Nee, helaas is er alleen een patroon voor kinderen. Je zou hem wat langer kunnen maken als je hem voor een volwassene maakt. Hij wordt van onder naar boven gehaakt, dus je kan hem tijdens het haken steeds even passen.

Daniela Becherer 09.12.2018 - 21:23:

Hallo liebes Drops Team ,\\r\\nIch finde eure Anleitungen echt super. Komme aus dem stricken/häckeln gar nicht mehr raus. \\r\\nAber leider habe ich bei jedem Modell wo ich arbeite jede Menge wolle übrig. \\r\\nDas ist echt ärgerlich... Gerne würde ich mein Geld in neue wolle für ein neues Model ausgeben...\\r\\nKönnt ihr da mal etwas weniger großzügig in der Berechnung sein? \\r\\nViele Grüße \\r\\nD. Becherer

Birgit 03.12.2018 - 22:49:

Teen haikala sabauime ja tâpselt õpetuse järgi ning uim ei tule üldse selline nagu peaks. Õpetuses on et ühte poolt kasvatad ju koguaeg ja ringselt heegeldan aga vot ei tule välja. Ehk oskate täpsemalt lahti seletada sabauime õpetust?

Marijke Frijters 19.11.2018 - 19:53:

Is dit patroon ook als briepatroon beschikbaar, mijn kleinzoon wil nadat ik de zeemeermin deken voor zijn zus heb gemaakt , graag de haai, maar ik veel beter breien.

DROPS Design 22.11.2018 kl. 11:22:

Dag Marijke,

Nee, helaas is hier alleen een haakpatroon voor.

Conny Van Aken 16.10.2018 - 18:21:

Ik wil graag deze haai deken maken van een acryl garen, heeft u een alternatief garen dat ik kan gebruiken zonder het patron aan te hoeven passen? Dank u wel Conny

DROPS Design 24.10.2018 kl. 21:56:

Dag Conny Van Aken,

Helaas hebben we geen acrylgarens in ons assortiment. Als je het patroon niet aan wilt passen is het het handigst om een garen te zoeken waarvan de stekenverhouding overeenkomt met de stekenverhouding in het patroon. Meestal staat deze wel op de wikkel van het garen.

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