DROPS / 185 / 6

Narvik by DROPS Design

The set consists of: Men’s knitted jumper with round yoke and multi-coloured Nordic pattern, worked top down and men’s knitted hat with multi-coloured Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-119
Yarn group B
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For the whole set there will be enough with 650-650-700-750-800-900 g 05, light grey, 150-150-200-200-200-200 g 01, off white and 100 g 11, red (in all sizes).
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JUMPER:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-600-650-700-750-850 g colour 05, light grey
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 11, red

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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HAT:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 57/59 - 59/61 cm
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g for both sizes in the following colours:
colour 05, light grey
colour 01, off white
colour 11, red

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 MM - for rib.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 28) = 3.4.
In this example, increase by making approx. 1 yarn over after alternately every 3rd and 4th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. If you are decreasing, knit together alternately every 3rd and 4th stitch and every 4th and 5th stitch.

PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagrams A.4 and A.5.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece do not pull. You can use a needle size larger when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP (for sides in body):
Start 2 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sides in body and mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. After the neck you can work an elevation, back and forth mid back of neck to give a better fit, so that the neck is a little higher at the back – this elevation can be skipped – see text. After the elevation, the yoke and body is worked in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 96-99-105-108-111-117 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and red. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 1 / purl 2). When the rib measures 3 cm knit 1 round where you increase 28-33-39-40-41-43 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 124-132-144-148-152-160 stitches.
Then continue yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP! Change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round.
Now you can work an elevation in back of neck if you wish, or go straight to working the yoke.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not wish an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid back. Start from the right side with red and knit 12-13-14-15-16-17 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-26-28-30-32-34 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 36-39-42-45-48-51 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 48-52-56-60-64-68 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 60-65-70-75-80-85 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 72-78-84-90-96-102 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back.

When the elevation has been completed, work A.1 in the round (= 31-33-36-37-38-40 repeats of 4 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way and increase at the same time on every round marked with an arrow in A.1 as described below – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On the round with arrow-1 increase 28-32-36-36-36-40 stitches evenly on round = 152-164-180-184-188-200 stitches.
On the round with arrow-2 increase 24-28-36-32-36-36 stitches evenly on round = 176-192-216-216-224-236 stitches.
On the round with arrow-3 increase 24-24-28-28-32-36 stitches evenly on round = 200-216-244-244-256-272 stitches.
On the round with arrow-4 increase 24-24-28-28-32-32 stitches evenly on round = 224-240-272-272-288-304 stitches.
When A.1 has been completed work A.2 in the round (= 14-15-17-17-18-19 repeats of 16 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way and increase as shown in the diagram. After the last increase in A.2 there are 280-300-340-374-396-418 stitches on the needle. Continue A.2 and increase at the same time 2-6-2-4-0-2 stitches evenly on the round with arrow-5 in A.2 = 282-306-342-378-396-420 stitches.
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round (= 47-51-57-63-66-70 repeats of 6 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way. AT THE SAME TIME on the round with arrow-6 in A.3 increase 24-32-20-14-16-22 stitches evenly on round = 306-338-362-392-412-442 stitches. When A.3 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 23-23-23-27-27-27 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. Continue with stocking stitch and light grey until the piece measures 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Knit 46-50-53-59-63-69 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), knit 93-101-107-118-126-139 stitches (= front piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 47-51-54-59-63-70 stitches (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 202-218-234-256-276-306 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve in each side. Start the round by one of the marker threads and work stocking stitch with light grey. When the piece measures 4 cm from the separation decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 25 cm = 194-210-226-248-268-298 stitches. Continue until the piece measures 35 cm in all sizes. Knit 1 round where you increase 43-45-50-55-59-65 stitches evenly on round = 237-255-276-303-327-363 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch AT THE SAME TIME as casting off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The jumper measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches from the thread in one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4 mm. In addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (= mid under sleeve). Work stocking stitch in the round with light grey. When the piece measures 4 cm from the separation, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – Remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 13th-9th-7th-6th-5th-5th round a total of 9-12-15-16-18-19 times = 50-52-54-56-56-58 stitches. When the sleeve measures 45-43-42-40-39-39 cm from the separation (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), knit 1 round where you increase 7-8-6-7-7-8 stitches evenly on round = 57-60-60-63-63-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time as casting off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 48-46-45-43-42-41 cm from the separation and down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

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HAT:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Cast on 114-123 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and red. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 2 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 2-3 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 112-120 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work pattern A.4 (= 28-30 repeats of 4 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the last round of A.4 increase 2-0 stitches evenly on round = 114-120 stitches. Then work A.5 in the round (= 19-20 repeats of 6 stitches). When A.5 has been completed the piece measures approx. 7 cm. Continue with stocking stitch and light grey. When the piece measures 18-20 cm decrease 2-0 stitches evenly on round = 112-120 stitches. Insert 8 marker threads in the piece with 14-15 stitches between each. On the next round decrease 1 stitch after each marker thread by knitting 2 stitches together (= 8 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 9 times = 40-48 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 20-24 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 27-29 cm from the top down.

Diagram

= red
= light grey
= off white
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
= increase round



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 185-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Christina 30.12.2019 - 20:31:

Guten Abend! Ich möchte zur Bestimmung der zu strickenden Größe gern wissem wie sich das Garn nach dem Waschen verhält. Für diese Anleitung habe ich mir die Drops Lima ausgesucht. Mir ist so, als würde Schurwolle nach dem Waschen ein wenig 'ausleiern', also das Strickobjekt größer werden?! Dann müsste ich für die gewünschte Größe XL (eigentlich nur wegen der breiten Schultern) eine L stricken? Viele Grüße!

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 17:13:

Liebe Christina, am besten waschen Sie immer Ihre Maschenprobe bevor Sie das Modell stricken, Maschenprobe auch mal trocknen lassen, und nochmal messen, und wenn nötig die Nadlegrösse anpassen. Ihr DROPS Laden wird für Sie noch mehr Tipps haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Frøydis 23.08.2019 - 16:24:

Jeg har strikket en annen genser hvor det også skulle legges ut masker nederst på bolen før man skulle strikke vrangbord. Det ble ikke pent, altfor romslig. Jeg tok det opp igjen og strikket vrangborden uten å legge opp nye masker, og det ble bedre. Jeg kommer ikke til å øke maskeantallet før jeg strikker vrangborden nederst på denne.

Cecilie Horn 10.02.2019 - 15:07:

Stemmer det virkelig at man skal legge ut masker like før vrangborden nederst på genseren? Det normale er jo at det er færre masker i vrangborden.

Naida 04.02.2019 - 16:33:

Buon giorno che tg ha il modello

Mette 14.09.2018 - 01:39:

Hej Hvorfor er der valgt at udtagning gøres med omslag i stedet for at gøre det med usynlige udtagning som i også har i jeres teknik videoer? Med venlig hilsen Mette

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 12:54:

Hej Mette, vi vælger gerne at bruge lidt forskellige udtagninger, men du skal naturligvis bare bruge den du synes bliver pænest. God fornøjelse!

Anne 10.09.2018 - 09:13:

Hei, jeg får ikke sett på oppskriften og aner ikke hvordan denne genseren ser ut. Får ikke opp bilde. Har prøvd Google og Microsoft og Firefox. Gjelder oppskrift Drops 185-6

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 11:50:

Hei Anne. Vi har for øyeblikket tekniske problemer med siden vår, dette medfører at diagrammer og bilder dessverre ikke lastes ordentlig. Vi jobber med å løse problemet, og siden vil være tilbake som normalt så snart som mulig. Du kan følge med på vår twitter eller facebookside for oppdateringer. Beklager dette

Trine 06.08.2018 - 22:48:

Hei. Vil det komme oppskrift på Narvik genser til barn?

Solveig Charlotte Sivertsen 14.03.2018 - 20:53:

Hvorfor går det ikke an å laste ned et gratis mønster her??

DROPS Design 16.03.2018 kl. 15:30:

Hej Charlotte. Jo men hele opskriften ligger her og den er helt gratis. Du kan enten skrive den ud eller gemme den på din computer. God fornøjelse!

Christin 09.01.2018 - 10:48:

Hej, jag har upptäckt ett fel i diagrammet till denna beskrivning. Diagram A2 för de större storlekarna innehåller två fel, på rad 21 räknat nedifrån fattas det ett x och på rad 25 är det ett x för mycket så vitt jag kan se. Vet inte hur det är med storlekarna men tycker också den verkar vara lite väl vid nedtill har aldrig varit med om tidigare att man har fler maskor i resåren än på fortsättningen av tröjan brukar ju vara tvärtom eller? /Christin

Sandra 29.12.2017 - 20:46:

Denne genseren ble kjempe stor, og jeg strikker ikke løst.. Jeg strikket den i XL og jeg tror den ble 3XL, iallefall helt nederst. På slutten av bolen står det at man skal øke mellom 40-60 masker, dette kan da ikke stemme.. Dette er første genseren jeg strikket så det var litt kjipt.

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