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  1. Free patterns
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  7. 11

See You Soon by DROPS Design

Shawl with lace pattern, crochet from the top down in DROPS Cotton Merino.

Keywords: lace, shawl, top down

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DROPS 175-11
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-065
Yarn group B
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Measurements: Width at top: approx. 156 cm Height in the middle: Approx. 75 cm
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300 g colour no 29, sea green

DROPS HOOK SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 18 trebles x 9 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Wool, 50% Cotton 		from 3.55 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.30£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
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SHAWL:
Beg with Cotton Merino on hook size 4 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. Work chain stitch ring and the first four round in the round, then work the rest of shawl back and forth. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When entire A.1 has been worked, continue from first row in diagrams as follows:
Work A.2a (3 chain stitches = 1 treble and 3 chain stitches), work A.2b 3 repetitions in total in width (i.e. 5 trebles around each of the first 9 chain spaces), work A.2c (= 3 chain stitches), then work the first 5 trebles in A.2b around same chain space (i.e. the middle chain space), then continue with A.2b until 3 repetitions have been worked in total in width (i.e. 5 trebles around each of the next 8 chain spaces), work A.2d around the last chain space = 46 trebles on each side of the middle chain space. Continue back and forth with A.2a to A.2b. When diagrams have been worked vertically, there are 75 trebles on each side of the middle chain space.

Now continue as follows:
ROW 1 (from wrong side): Work 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around chain space, * work 5 chain stitches, skip 5 trebles, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* 14 more times, but work last double crochet around the middle chain space on shawl, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around same chain space, * work 5 chain stitches, skip 5 trebles, work 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* 14 more times, work 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around last chain space. There are now 16 chain spaces on each side of chain space in the middle of shawl.
ROW 2: Work 7 chain stitches, * 5 trebles around first/next chain space *, repeat from *-* 15 more times, work (5 trebles, 3 chain stitches, 5 trebles) around chain space in the middle of shawl, * work 5 trebles around first/next chain space *, repeat from *-* 15 more times, work 5 trebles around last chain space, work 4 chain stitches and 1 treble around the last chain space on row. There are now 85 trebles on each side of chain space in the middle of shawl.
ROW 3: Work 11 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around first chain space, * 6 chain stitches, skip 5 trebles, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* 15 more times, work 6 chain stitches, A.3 around the middle chain space. Continue with * 6 chain stitches, skip 5 trebles, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* 15 more times, work 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around last chain space, 8 chain stitches, 1 treble around last chain space. There are now 18 chain spaces on each side of A.3.
ROW 4: Work 11 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around first chain space, * 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space *, repeat from *-* until chain space in the middle of shawl, work 6 chain stitches, A.3 around chain space in the middle of shawl. Then work * 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space *, repeat from *-* until last chain space, 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around last chain space, 8 chain stitches, 1 treble around last chain space.
Repeat 4th row 7 more times, but on every row worked repeat *-* 1 more time (i.e. on every row worked there is 1 chain space more on each side of A.3) = 9 rows in total with chain spaces and 26 chain spaces on each side of A.3.

Now work pattern from first row in diagrams A.2, the same way as before, but work more repetitions in width as follows:
Work A.2a (3 chain stitches = 1 treble and 3 chain stitches), work A.2b 9 repetitions in total in width (i.e. 5 trebles around each of the first 27 chain spaces), work A.2c (= 3 chain stitches), then work the first 5 trebles in A.2b around same chain space (i.e. the middle chain space), then continue with A.2b until 9 repetitions have been worked in total in width (i.e. 5 trebles around each of the next 26 chain spaces), work A.2d around the last chain space = 136 trebles on each side of the middle chain space. Continue back and forth with A.2a to A.2d. When diagrams have been worked vertically, there are 165 trebles on each side of the middle chain space.

Now continue as follows:
ROW 1 (from wrong side): Work 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around chain space, * work 5 chain stitches, skip 5 trebles, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* 32 more times, but work last double crochet around the middle chain space on shawl, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around same chain space, * work 5 chain stitches, skip 5 trebles, work 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* 32 more times, work 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around last chain space. There are now 34 chain spaces on each side of chain space in the middle of shawl.
ROW 2: Work 7 chain stitches, * 5 trebles around first/next chain space *, repeat from *-* 33 more times, work (5 trebles, 3 chain stitches, 5 trebles) around chain space in the middle of shawl, * work 5 trebles around first/next chain space *, repeat from *-* 33 more times, work 5 trebles around last chain space, work 4 chain stitches and 1 treble around the last chain space on row. There are now 175 trebles on each side of increase in the middle of shawl.
ROW 3: Work 11 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around first chain space, * 6 chain stitches, skip 5 trebles *, repeat from *-* 33 more times, work 6 chain stitches, A.3 around the middle chain space. Continue with * 6 chain stitches, skip 5 trebles, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* 33 more times, work 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around last chain space, 8 chain stitches, 1 treble around last chain space. There are now 36 chain spaces on each side of A.3.
ROW 4: Work 11 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around first chain space, * 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space *, repeat from *-* until chain space in the middle of shawl, work 6 chain stitches, A.3 around chain space in the middle of shawl. Then work * 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space *, repeat from *-* until last chain space, 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around last chain space, 8 chain stitches, 1 treble around last chain space.
Repeat 4th row 7 more times, but on every row worked repeat *-* 1 more time (i.e. on every row worked there is 1 chain space more on each side of the middle chain space) = 9 rows in total with chain spaces and 44 chain spaces on each side of A.3.

Now work pattern from first row in diagrams A.2, the same way as before, but work more repetitions in width as follows:
Work A.2a (3 chain stitches = 1 treble and 3 chain stitches), work A.2b 15 repetitions in total in width (i.e. 5 trebles around each of the next 45 chain spaces), work A.2c (= 3 chain stitches), then work the first 5 trebles in A.2b around same chain space (i.e. the middle chain space), then continue with A.2b until 15 repetitions have been worked in total in width (i.e. 5 trebles around each of the next 44 chain spaces), work A.2d around the last chain space = 226 trebles on each side of the middle chain space. Continue back and forth with A.2a to A.2d. Finish after 4th row in diagrams. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 24.08.2018
Correction: Diagrams A.1-A.3 (previously A.6)

Diagram

symbols = Work 4 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet in chain space
symbols = 1 half treble around chain space/around space between triple trebles
symbols = 1 treble around chain space
symbols = 1 treble in stitch
symbols = 1 double treble around chain space
symbols = 1 triple treble in stitch
symbols = 1 triple treble around chain space
symbols = work 2 trebles together around chain stitch ring/chain space: Work 1 treble but wait with last pull through, work 1 more treble but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 2 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain space
symbols = round begins with 2 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = Begin on this row
symbols = row begins by working slip stitches until chain space, then work 4 chain stitches
symbols = row begins by working slip stitches until chain space, then work 7 chain stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (76)

country flag Brechtje Schwippert wrote:

Aan het einde van a2 heb ik in plaats van de benodigde 75 stokjes aan beide zeiden maar 65. Wat is de beste manier om dit op te lossen? Ik heb het patroon al een keer uitgetrokken en opnieuw gehaakt maar ik blijf uitkomen op 65.

07.08.2023 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Brechtje,

Waarschijnlijk heb je toch ergens een lossenlus met een stokje op een vorige toer over het hoofd gezien. Als het patroon verder symmetrisch is en mooi doorloopt en niet trekt o.i.d. zou het verder geen probleem moeten zijn en zou je verder kunnen haken met minder stokjes.

14.08.2023 kl. 14:18

country flag Mick wrote:

I've done until just before A.3. So I have 6 chain stitches. Now I have to work 5 chain stitches (=A.3. row1) around the middle chain space. But how? Shouldn't the A.3. row1 be 1sc+3ch+1sc or something like that, instead of 5ch? Otherwise you can't get into the middle chain space. You'll end up 6ch +5ch (and then 6ch again).

09.06.2023 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mick, A.3 is worked in the middle of shawl, after the 6 chains work A.3 = 2 dc together+5 chains + 2 dc together around the chain-space from previous row, then crochet 6 chains and finish row as explained on the other side of shawl. Happy crocheting!

12.06.2023 kl. 08:11

country flag Potxoli wrote:

Todo bien hasta llegar a la parte segunda donde pone 75 puntos altos en cada lado. No sé dónde salen esos 75 puntos. A mi me salen 46 que cada lado

29.04.2023 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Potxoli, después de llegar a 46 puntos altos, continuar trabajando A.2a y A.2b hasta llegar a 75 puntos altos. Los aumentos están incluidos en el diagrama.

30.04.2023 kl. 22:20

country flag Caroline wrote:

Ik zit vast bij de toer waar je 46 stokjes hebt aan beide kanten....... Wat moet ik nu verder doen? Er staat; ga verder heen en weer met A2a tot en met A2d, tot er 75 stokjes zijn aan beide kanten. Betekent dit dat ik nog een rij van telkens 5 stokjes moet haken?

07.02.2023 - 10:55

country flag Manuela Hernandez Gomez wrote:

Hola me encantan los chakes de Drops pero escrito es un lio y con grafico por partes de A2a, A2b..... Aun mas lio, no podrian poner el grafico completo porque por partes es un jaleo, al menos para mi, gracias

18.07.2022 - 18:27

country flag Aleksandra wrote:

Dzień dobry! Czy w pierwszym akapicie w poleceniu: „ Dalej przerabiać schematy A.2a - A.2b w tę i z powrotem.” faktycznie robimy od schematu A.2a do A.2b czy jednak wszystkie schematy po kolei? Pozdrawiam ( :

30.06.2022 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aleksandro, robimy schematy po kolei, na początku rzędu schemat A.2a jak wcześniej, następnie powtarzamy A.2b na jednym boku szala, na środku (czubek szala) A.2c, dalej powtarzamy A.2 b na drugim boku szala i na końcu rzędu przerabiamy A.2 d. Pozdrawiamy!

30.06.2022 kl. 18:11

country flag Richard Howell wrote:

I just finished the last row in diagram A.2a with the 5 double crochets. I’m lost on how to begin the next 2 rows before making the arrow looking motif. These are shown in your diagram A.2b.Yep

03.04.2022 - 03:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mr Howell, after you have worked A.2a to A.2b and you have 75 dc on each side of the middle chain-space, work as described in the written pattern from ROW 1 to ROW 4 a total of 8 times (with A.3 in the middle as described). Then you will follow diagrams again with A.2a, A.2b and A.2c. Happy crocheting!

04.04.2022 kl. 09:42

country flag Richard Howell wrote:

I just finished the last row in diagram A.2a with the 5 double crochets. I’m lost on how to begin the next 2 rows before making the arrow looking motif. These are shown in your diagram A.2b.

22.03.2022 - 17:28

country flag Richard Howell wrote:

Is there a way I can send you a picture of where I am at with my work

21.03.2022 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mr Howell, feel free to bring your work to your store or send them a picture per Mail - so that they can help you with an overview of your work. You can also join our DROPS Workshop where other crocheters will be able to help you. Happy crocheting!

22.03.2022 kl. 09:47

country flag Richard Howell wrote:

Hello and thanks for the quick response. I’m hoping I can send attachments for you to see where I am at.

21.03.2022 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mr Howell, you cannot send any attachment, just write here; but please write your question here giving more all details on what you are working on and which row/which place on the row you are stuck.

22.03.2022 kl. 09:45

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.