DROPS / 175 / 10

Orient Dream by DROPS Design

Blanket with crochet squares and lace pattern, in DROPS Paris.

Tags: blankets, lace, square,
DROPS design: Pattern no w-628
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: Width: 94 cm Length: 133 cm
Measurements square: approx. 39 x 39 cm
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700 g colour 01, apricot
300 g colour 38, coral

DROPS HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 trebles x 10.5 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
Diagram A.1b measures approx. 24 x 24 cm.
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DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
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BLANKET:
Work 6 crochet square and crochet them together before working an edge around the entire blanket.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Begin with hook size 3.5 mm and apricot and work pattern according to diagram A.1b 4 times in total on round - diagram A.1a shows how round begins and ends and work in addition to A.1b. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When entire diagram A.1a and A.1b have been worked vertically, crochet square measures approx. 24 x 24 cm. Cut the yarn.
Begin in 4th double crochet and work from 3rd round in diagrams as follows: Work A.2a in double crochet (A.2a shows how round begins and ends), work A.2b over the first 3 chain stitch spaces, * work A.2c (= corner), work A.2b over the next 9 chain stitch spaces (= 3 repetitions) *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, work A.2c in the corner and finish with A.2b over the remaining 6 chain stitch spaces (= 2 repetitions) on round. When last round in diagram A.2a to A.2c has been worked, fasten off. Crochet square measures approx. 39 x 39 cm.
Work another 5 crochet squares the same way = 6 crochet squares in total.

ASSEMBLY:
Now assemble the 6 crochet squares by working squares together through both layers with apricot as follows:
Place 2 crochet squares with wrong side against each other, fasten strand with 1 double crochet around chain stitch space in a corner, * work 1 double crochet through both layers in next treble, 2 chain stitches, skip 1 treble *, repeat from *-* until the entire side has been worked, work 1 double crochet around chain stitch space. Repeat on the other crochet squares so that there are 2 strips with 3 crochet squares in length. Then work the 2 strips together to get 2 crochet squares in width and 3 crochet squares in length. See measurement chart.

EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire piece in coral. Begin with 1 double crochet around chain stitch space in a corner and work from 2nd round in diagrams as follows:
NOTE: On 2nd round in diagrams work 1 double crochet in transition between 2 crochet squares (i.e. where they are crochet together) instead of working 1 double crochet around chain space in corners on each of the crochet squares. There are then 15 chain stitch spaces along each of the sides on crochet squares,
Work A.2a (shows how round begins and ends) * work A.2b until next corner on blanket, work A.2c (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 3 more times. When all rounds in A.2a-A.2c are done vertically, fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 10.01.2018
One line under the 3rd diagram icon is deletet (this line: , then work slip stitches until middle of first chain stitch space).

Diagram

= work 4 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
= 1 chain stitch
= 1 double crochet around chain stitch space/between 2 trebles
= round begins with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.
= round begins with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches up to 2nd chain stitch space
= round begins with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 5 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in 5th chain stitch at beginning of round
= work 2 trebles together around chain stitch ring/chain stitch space Work 1 treble but wait with last pull through, work 1 more treble but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.
= round begins with 3 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 3 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain stitch space
= round begins with 2 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round
= 1 treble around chain stitch space
= 1 treble in stitch
= 1 half treble around chain space/around space between 2 triple trebles
= 1 double treble around chain stitch space
= 1 triple treble in stitch/around chain stitch space



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Deborah Baxter 28.06.2019 - 18:10:

Is there a written pattern somewhere? I don’t understand diagrams. It’s a beautiful blanket and I would love to crochet this but unfortunately diagrams aren’t my thing. I think there’s probably a lot of people who don’t understand diagrams.

DROPS Design 28.06.2019 kl. 21:25:

Dear Deborah, unfortunately we cannot accomondate every wish about pattern writing. Our patterns are available in many languages, and we found the best way to give the pattern to everyone in chart forms. Charts do have their advantages, you can see not only a row (and what comes right after a stitch), but you can also see the relations of stitches to each other, and how rows should follow one another. It is not that difficult to memorize the explanation of the stitches (after a few repeats the mind remembers almost automatically). If you are still stuck, remember, you can always ask for help in person in the store where you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Crafting!

Sarah 30.04.2019 - 14:09:

Het derde symbool werd verkeerd vertaald vanuit het Engels: " 1 double crochet around chain stitch space/between 2 trebles". Dit werd vertaald naar halve vaste, maar moet een vaste zijn rond de lossenlus. Ook in het filmpje is te zien dat de persoon een vaste haakt....

Olga Jaén Pareja 30.03.2019 - 12:55:

Ustedes dicen que la lana que hay que utilizar es una del grupo C, pero luego indican utilizar una aguja del 3,5mm. ¿Es correcto esto?

DROPS Design 02.04.2019 kl. 14:56:

Hola Olga. Lo importante es la tensión del tejido, en este caso 18 puntos altos x 10.5 filas = 10 cm x 10 cm. El tamaño de la aguja es orientativo.

Diane 08.10.2017 - 22:26:

I've been crocheting for several decades, and I have no issues reading standard charts, but the instructions here are about as incomprehensible as they come and very confusing. As far as I can tell, round 1 ring is 4 chains, but then what? What stitches and how many in the ring?? If I can't even get it started, then I may just have to find another pattern, this is a Christmas project, I don't have a lot of time to waste deciphering this :-/ Thanks

DROPS Design 08.10.2017 kl. 23:09:

Dear Diane, after the initial circle made from 4 chain stitch, and closed with a slip stitch, you do 3 treble (UK)/ double (US) (this is ahown in A.1a). [*Then two treble (UK) / double (US) crocheted together, 2 chain stitch.* Repeat *-* one more time (this is A.1b)]. Then repeat [-] 4 times, then close the round with a lip stitch. And so on. A.1 only shows the stitches that are used in order to raise the row to the next level. A1.b is repeated 4 times in the round. I hope this helps. Happy Crocheting!

Kathleen 26.03.2017 - 17:00:

The diagrams are fine as far as they go, however they don't go nearly far enough. In fact, after following the first snippet of diagram shown, it's nearly impossible to figure out where you are. Those who are having problems with the diagrams (and I've followed diagrams for years), it's not you, it's the creator of the diagram.

DROPS Design 27.03.2017 kl. 10:17:

Dear kathleen, in A.1 you just repeat 4 times A.1b in the round, in A.2a-A.2c work A.2b along the sides and A.2c in the corner, A.2a is only showing how to start/finish the round. Happy crocheting!

Michelle Achee 22.02.2017 - 20:32:

Is there a written pattern for this? I bought the wool thinking it would have a regular written pattern, but all I see is a diagram which I cannot understand. Very frustrated.

DROPS Design 23.02.2017 kl. 09:51:

Dear Mrs Achee, there is only diagram to this pattern, each symbol is matching a st/group of sts and is explaining under diagram text. For any further personnal assistance you are welcome to contact the DROPS store where you bought your yarn, they would be able to assist you, even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

Naty Gagnon 30.01.2017 - 19:54:

Merci, pas nécessairement en vidéo mais comme le tutoriel de drops children 24-6, tour par tour par écrit pas en diagramme. Merci.

Naty Gagnon 30.01.2017 - 03:46:

Bonjour, je viens de commencer ce modèle et j'ai un peu de difficulté avec les diagrammes, auriez-vous les explications tour après tour comme pour le patron DROPS children 24-6 (Lovely Lily) que j'ai réussi avec succès. En passant votre site est merveilleux.

DROPS Design 30.01.2017 kl. 12:08:

Bonjour Mme Gagnon, votre demande a bien été enregistrée, en attendant la vidéo, vous pouvez suivre le diagramme en vérifiant bien la légende de chaque symbole: A.1a = début/fin de chaque tour, A.1b = à répéter pour former le carré. Bon crochet!

Joan 18.01.2017 - 17:18:

Oh, yeahhhh!

Viviane 06.01.2017 - 09:47:

Voor wie niet graag vele kleine grannys maakt, dit is een grotere variant die toch nog luchtig en elegant oogt.

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