DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Children (2-14)
  3. Accessories
  4. Hats
  5. Earflap Hats
  6. DROPS Children
  7. 27
  8. 1

Wild Blueberries

Set of knitted overall worked top down with Nordic pattern and round yoke, plus hat with ear flaps and pompom in DROPS Karisma. Size children 1 - 6 years

Change language:

DROPS Children 27-1
DROPS design: Pattern no u-072-bn
Yarn group B
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SUIT:
Size: 12/18 months - 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years
Size in cm: 80/86 - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400 colour no 50, green
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 01, off white
colour no 44, light grey
colour no 73, petrol

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. NOTE: It is important that the knitting tension is correct vertically to get the right shape on the round yoke.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CEDAR BUTTONS NO 513: 6-6-7-7 pieces

HAT:
Size: 12/24 months - 3/6 years
Head circumference: approx. 44/48-50/52 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in each of the following colours:
colour no 01, off white
colour no 44, light grey
colour no 50, green
colour no 73, petrol

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib and ear flaps - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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related pattern
related pattern
DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
SUIT:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 - NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size. Work entire pattern in
stocking st.

KNITTING TIP (applies to bands):
On the rows where there are either stripes or pattern border work the colour in the stripes or the base colour of pattern border also over the 5 band sts in each side but do yarn change between band and body (to avoid fastening the yarn on band).

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To calculate how often dec/inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 84 sts), minus bands (e.g. 10 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of dec/inc to be done (e.g. 7) = 10.6. I.e. In this example dec by working alternately approx. every 9th and 10th st and 10th and 11th st tog or inc after alternately approx. every 10th and 11th st by making 1 YO (work YO twisted on next row to avoid hole – NOTE: Do not inc/dec over bands).

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 2 sts before marker and make 1 YO, work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row work YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeve and on inside of leg):
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonhole on right band (when garment is worn). 1 button hole = beg from WS and K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO. On next row K the YO to make a hole.
Dec for first buttonhole after 1½-2 cm on neck edge, then dec the next 5-5-6-6 buttonholes every 7½-8-7½-8 cm.
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SUIT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. To make it easier to adjust the length of sleeves and legs the suit is worked top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 84-88-92-96 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on a short circular needle size 3 mm with petrol. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 5 bands sts in garter st. Continue rib like this for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above and finish after 1 row from RS (= neck edge). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. P 1 row from WS while dec 7-5-4-1 sts evenly - READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 77-83-88-95 sts on needle. Then work an elevation at the back in stocking st as follows: K until 12-13-14-15 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and P until 12-13-14-15 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and K until 20-22-24-26 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and P until 20-22-24-26 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and K until 28-31-34-37 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and P until 28-31-34-37 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and K the rest of row, then P 1 row from WS (work bands in garter st). Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 6 sts remain on row - NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size (= 11-12-11-12 repetitions of 6-6-7-7 sts), work first st in A.1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way inside band in each - NOTE: Do not inc in this st) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in diagram - READ KNITTING TIP AND REMEMBER KNITTING TENSION. When A.1 has been worked = 187-203-220-239 sts on needle. Work 0-1-0-1 cm with green. Piece now measures approx. 13-14-15-16 cm mid front (measured without rib in the neck). Now work piece in stocking st with green. On first row from RS inc now 7-7-10-7 sts evenly (do not inc over bands) = 194-210-230-246 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: Work 29-31-34-36 sts as before, slip the next 42-46-50-54 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts on row, work 52-56-62-66 sts (= back piece), slip the next 42-46-50-54 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts on row and work 29-31-34-36 sts as before.

BODY:
= 122-130-142-150 sts. Insert 1 marker 32-34-37-39 sts in from each side (= 58-62-68-72 sts between markers on back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Then continue back and forth in stocking st and 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front - remember BUTTONHOLES on band. When piece measures 10-10-12-12 cm, inc on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 20-20-24-24 cm = 130-138-150-158 sts. When piece measures 29-31-35-38 cm from armhole, end bands mid front. Cast off the first 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows = 124-132-144-152 sts. Then work in stocking st in the round over all sts for approx. 3 cm – piece now measures 32-34-38-41 cm from armhole and 45-48-53-57 cm from mid front (measured without rib in neck). Now divide for legs.

LEG:
Beg mid front, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work in stocking st in the round over the first 62-66-72-76 sts (keep the remaining 62-66-72-76 sts on circular needle). Insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When leg measures 2 cm from dividing for legs, dec 2 sts on inside of leg - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3rd-4th-6th-7th round a total of 10-10-11-11 times = 42-46-50-54 sts. When leg measures 13-18-25-31 cm, inc 10 sts evenly = 52-56-60-64 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 for 8-8-10-10 cm (or desired length). On next round, inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 65-70-75-80 sts. Then cast off sts with K over K and P over P.
Slip sts from circular needle on double pointed needles size 4 mm and work the other leg the same way. Entire suit now measures approx. 66-74-88-98 cm mid front (measured without rib in the neck).

SLEEVE:
Slip sts from one stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm, pick up 1 st in each of the 6 sts cast on under sleeve = 48-52-56-60 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6 sts (= mid under sleeve). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stocking st in the round with green. When sleeve measures 2-2-1-1 cm, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat dec every 3rd-3rd-4th-4th round a total of 7-9-10-12 times = 34-34-36-36 sts. When sleeve measures 10-12-15-18 cm, inc 6-6-8-8 sts evenly = 40-40-44-44 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 for 8-8-10-10 cm (or desired length). On next round, inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 50-50-55-55 sts. Then cast off sts with K over K and P over P.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Place right band over left band and fasten at the bottom with small stitches. Sew the buttons on to the left band.


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HAT:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.2. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Dec 1 st after every marker as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).

DECREASE TIP-2:
Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

TUBE TIE:
Slip the 4 sts tog on 1 double pointed needle size 3 mm. K 1 row, * move all sts to the right side of needle without turning piece, tighten yarn and K over all sts *, repeat from *-* until desired length.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle from the bottom up, switch to double pointed needles when needed.

Cast on 96-112 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with petrol. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and K 1 round while at the same time dec 12-16 sts evenly = 84-96 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (= 7-8 repetitions of 12 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.2 has been worked, piece measures approx. 14 cm. Work with green until piece measures 15-17 cm. Now insert 6 markers in piece with 14-16 sts between every marker. On next round dec 1 st after every marker - SEE DECREASE TIP 1 (= 6 sts dec). Dec like this every other round a total of 5 times and then every round 3 times in total = 36-48 sts. On next round K all sts tog 2 by 2, K 1 round and K all sts tog 2 by 2 again = 9-12 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 20-22 cm.

EAR FLAP:
Cast on 40-44 sts with petrol and distribute sts on 2 double pointed needles size 3 mm = 20-22 sts on each needle. Work in stocking st in the round on these 2 needles - NOTE: Tighten yarn in every transition between the 2 needles when working. When ear flap measures 5-6 cm, insert 1 marker in each side. On next round dec 2 sts in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP 2. Dec like this every other round a total of 5-5 times and then every round 4-5 times in total = 4 sts remain on needle. Work TUBE TIE – see explanation above – over the remaining sts until tie measures approx. 20-25 cm. Cut the yarn and pull it through sts, tighten tog and fasten.
Knit another ear flap the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Place ear flaps approx. 3 cm in under rib on hat and fasten on WS - NOTE: There should be approx. 13-15 cm between ear flaps at the front (= approx. 7-9 cm between ear flaps at the back).

Make a pompom with green, 4-5 cm in diameter and fasten pompom at the top of hat.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.04.2018
Correction in diagram A.1.

Diagram

symbols = light grey
symbols = green
symbols = off white
symbols = petrol
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts in base colour in pattern stripe, on next row work YO twisted to avoid hole
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (100)

country flag Florence Lefevre wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis entrain de faire la petite taille de la combinaison. Au 1er rang du diagramme faut-il faire une augmentation après chaque 6e maille tout du long du rang? Merci . Cordialement. Florence

16.11.2024 - 09:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florence, le diagramme commence sur l'endroit, et vous devez répéter toues les mailles du diagramme, de droite à gauche sur l'endroit (et de gauche à droite sur l'envers), autrement dit, au tout 1er rang tricotez (1 jeté + les 6 m du diagramme) répétez de (à) jusqu'à la fin du rang et terminez par la 1ère maille du diagramme (pas le jeté). Bon tricot!

18.11.2024 - 07:26

country flag Maria Delova wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, Ich bin gerade dabei die Mütze zu Stricken. Klappt so weit gut. Nur die Ohrenklappen machen mir zu schaffen. Da steht "Wenn die Ohrklappe eine Gesamtlänge von 5-6 cm hat, je 1 Markierer beidseitig anbringen." Wo kommt der Markierer genau hin? Beidseitig von was? Ich hoffe auf schnelle Hilfe! Vielen Dank schon mal! Maria

07.11.2024 - 13:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Delova, der Ohrklappen wird doppelt, so die Markierungen sollen an beiden Seiten sein, wenn der Rundbeginn in der Mitte der Innerseite liegt, dann haben Sie 1/4 der Maschen, 1 Markierung, die Hälfte der Maschen (äusserte Seite vom Ohrenklapp), 1 Markierung, 1/4 der Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

07.11.2024 - 16:36

country flag Jule wrote:

Wieviel Wolle brauche ich bitte für Overal und Mütze in Größe 92?

30.06.2024 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Jule, am besten kalkulieren Sie die Garnmenge für jedes Stück zusammen, so sind Sie sicher, genügend Garn zu haben. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

01.07.2024 - 10:02

country flag Monica-Yvonne Lund wrote:

Hei DROPS, Ser ut til at det er gjort en feil i mønster A-1 str. 3/4 + 5/6 år. På linje 9 og 13 så blir det lagt ut 1 maske på begynnelsen av rapporten begge gangene. Hvis man følger dette så blir stjernen ikke midtstilt i rapporten og kan komme ut skjevt. Alle pinner med utlegg av maske må byttes på hvilken side av rapporten masken skal legges ut, start fra pinne 13 og oppover. Vennlig hilsen Monica-Yvonne Lund Vennlig hilsen Monica-Yvonne Lund

10.04.2024 - 17:40

country flag Solene Maelys Cordet wrote:

Bonjour :) j’espère que vous allez bien ! Je souhaiterais adapter ce modèle à un nouveau né, auriez-vous des conseils ? Un immense merci !!

26.07.2023 - 14:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Solene, vous trouverez les ensembles pour les nouveau-nes sur notre page ICI. Vous pouvez choisir un et ajouter un motif jacquard que vous aimez. Bon tricot!

26.07.2023 - 14:57

country flag Johanne Meek wrote:

Bonjour, Comment arriver à 187 mailles après le diagramme ? Cela inclut ou exclut les mailles de bordure( 10 au total). Je tente de faire les déductions…..à la fin du diagramme nous aurons 16 mailles x 11( car il y a ce nombre de motifs)= 176 ??? De plus que voulez vous dire à la page 4 : « Jusqu’à ce qu’il reste 6 m » Je ferai des bas en attendant votre réponse…..fatiguée de de défaire…… Merci, Johanne

26.06.2023 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Meek, dans la 1ère taille, vous commencez avec 77 mailles, et vous tricotez ainsi: 5 m point mousse, 11x les 6 m de A.1, (= vous répétez les 6 m de A.1 jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 6 mailles sur l'aiguille gauche et terminez ainsi: tricotez la 1ère m de A.1 et 5 m point mousse (soit = 5+(11x6)+1+5=77); à la fin de A.1, il y a 16 m dans chaque A.1 soit: 5 +(11x16)+1+5=187 mailles. Bon tricot!

26.06.2023 - 16:07

country flag Bente Engmann wrote:

Har begynt på nytt og strikker str:2 år og nu er jeg der det står : strikk mønster etter diag.A1. til det gjenstår 6 m på pinnen ( hva menes det med det ? ) og og skal jeg begynne med 1 hvit ( ikke kast i tillegg ? ) og på 3 rad står det 1 kast, skal det strikkes 7 masker + et kast hver gang hele runden ? MVH. Bente Engmann.

05.06.2023 - 13:41

country flag Nel wrote:

Ik brei met Karisma. Mijn proeflapje klopte met de voorgeschreven aantallen nld. :28 =10 cm. In het patroon ben heb ik nu veel minder naalden in 10 cm. Ik denk dat ik nu het A2 patroon moet pakken om aan 13 cm te komen voor de kleinste maat.

14.03.2023 - 22:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nel,

Als de stekenverhouding verder wel in de breedte klopt, kun je op bepaalde plekken in het patroon een aantal extra naalden breien om aan de hoogte te komen, bijvoorbeeld bij de naalden waar maar 1 kleur gebruikt wordt.

01.04.2023 - 19:54

country flag Tone Patrick wrote:

Hei, ønsker å strikke dressen i str 3/4 og 5/6, men syntes det er vanskelig å strikke bærestykket med økninger når det ikke står hvor mange masker jeg skal ha etter hver økning. Jeg er en erfaren strikker og tenker at dette er noe flere vil ha problemer med.

27.02.2023 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tone. Oppskriftene våre blir skrevet på ulike måter for å tilfredstille alle brukerne. Noen liker å "lese"diagram der man ser økningene i diagrammet og der man selv enkelt kan telle og gang med antall rapporter på hva maskeantallet skal være. Mens andre liker å vite maskeantallet etter hver økeomgang. Ta en titt på f.eks DROPS Children 37-5, der er økeomgangene vist med pil og hvor mange masker det er etter økningene. Vanskelig å tilfredstille alle da dette er personlig smak og behag. mvh DROPS Design

27.02.2023 - 14:02

country flag Helen Aundal wrote:

Hvor mange cm strikkes på bolen, før en begynner på opphøyningen bak? I oppskriften ser det ut som om den strikkes før bolen.

20.02.2023 - 13:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helen, den strikker du allerede efter vrangborden i halsen, du starter med at strikker der hvor det står BÆRESTK :)

23.02.2023 - 15:20

Wild Blueberries



Set of knitted overall worked top down with Nordic pattern and round yoke, plus hat with ear flaps and pompom in DROPS Karisma. Size children 1 - 6 years

DROPS Children 27-1
DROPS design: Pattern no u-072-bn
Yarn group B
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SUIT:
Size: 12/18 months - 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years
Size in cm: 80/86 - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400 colour no 50, green
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 01, off white
colour no 44, light grey
colour no 73, petrol

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. NOTE: It is important that the knitting tension is correct vertically to get the right shape on the round yoke.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CEDAR BUTTONS NO 513: 6-6-7-7 pieces

HAT:
Size: 12/24 months - 3/6 years
Head circumference: approx. 44/48-50/52 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in each of the following colours:
colour no 01, off white
colour no 44, light grey
colour no 50, green
colour no 73, petrol

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib and ear flaps - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

SUIT:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 - NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size. Work entire pattern in
stocking st.

KNITTING TIP (applies to bands):
On the rows where there are either stripes or pattern border work the colour in the stripes or the base colour of pattern border also over the 5 band sts in each side but do yarn change between band and body (to avoid fastening the yarn on band).

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To calculate how often dec/inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 84 sts), minus bands (e.g. 10 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of dec/inc to be done (e.g. 7) = 10.6. I.e. In this example dec by working alternately approx. every 9th and 10th st and 10th and 11th st tog or inc after alternately approx. every 10th and 11th st by making 1 YO (work YO twisted on next row to avoid hole – NOTE: Do not inc/dec over bands).

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 2 sts before marker and make 1 YO, work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row work YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeve and on inside of leg):
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonhole on right band (when garment is worn). 1 button hole = beg from WS and K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO. On next row K the YO to make a hole.
Dec for first buttonhole after 1½-2 cm on neck edge, then dec the next 5-5-6-6 buttonholes every 7½-8-7½-8 cm.
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SUIT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. To make it easier to adjust the length of sleeves and legs the suit is worked top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 84-88-92-96 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on a short circular needle size 3 mm with petrol. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 5 bands sts in garter st. Continue rib like this for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above and finish after 1 row from RS (= neck edge). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. P 1 row from WS while dec 7-5-4-1 sts evenly - READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 77-83-88-95 sts on needle. Then work an elevation at the back in stocking st as follows: K until 12-13-14-15 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and P until 12-13-14-15 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and K until 20-22-24-26 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and P until 20-22-24-26 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and K until 28-31-34-37 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and P until 28-31-34-37 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and K the rest of row, then P 1 row from WS (work bands in garter st). Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 6 sts remain on row - NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size (= 11-12-11-12 repetitions of 6-6-7-7 sts), work first st in A.1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way inside band in each - NOTE: Do not inc in this st) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in diagram - READ KNITTING TIP AND REMEMBER KNITTING TENSION. When A.1 has been worked = 187-203-220-239 sts on needle. Work 0-1-0-1 cm with green. Piece now measures approx. 13-14-15-16 cm mid front (measured without rib in the neck). Now work piece in stocking st with green. On first row from RS inc now 7-7-10-7 sts evenly (do not inc over bands) = 194-210-230-246 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: Work 29-31-34-36 sts as before, slip the next 42-46-50-54 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts on row, work 52-56-62-66 sts (= back piece), slip the next 42-46-50-54 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts on row and work 29-31-34-36 sts as before.

BODY:
= 122-130-142-150 sts. Insert 1 marker 32-34-37-39 sts in from each side (= 58-62-68-72 sts between markers on back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Then continue back and forth in stocking st and 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front - remember BUTTONHOLES on band. When piece measures 10-10-12-12 cm, inc on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 20-20-24-24 cm = 130-138-150-158 sts. When piece measures 29-31-35-38 cm from armhole, end bands mid front. Cast off the first 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows = 124-132-144-152 sts. Then work in stocking st in the round over all sts for approx. 3 cm – piece now measures 32-34-38-41 cm from armhole and 45-48-53-57 cm from mid front (measured without rib in neck). Now divide for legs.

LEG:
Beg mid front, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work in stocking st in the round over the first 62-66-72-76 sts (keep the remaining 62-66-72-76 sts on circular needle). Insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When leg measures 2 cm from dividing for legs, dec 2 sts on inside of leg - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3rd-4th-6th-7th round a total of 10-10-11-11 times = 42-46-50-54 sts. When leg measures 13-18-25-31 cm, inc 10 sts evenly = 52-56-60-64 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 for 8-8-10-10 cm (or desired length). On next round, inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 65-70-75-80 sts. Then cast off sts with K over K and P over P.
Slip sts from circular needle on double pointed needles size 4 mm and work the other leg the same way. Entire suit now measures approx. 66-74-88-98 cm mid front (measured without rib in the neck).

SLEEVE:
Slip sts from one stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm, pick up 1 st in each of the 6 sts cast on under sleeve = 48-52-56-60 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6 sts (= mid under sleeve). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stocking st in the round with green. When sleeve measures 2-2-1-1 cm, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat dec every 3rd-3rd-4th-4th round a total of 7-9-10-12 times = 34-34-36-36 sts. When sleeve measures 10-12-15-18 cm, inc 6-6-8-8 sts evenly = 40-40-44-44 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 for 8-8-10-10 cm (or desired length). On next round, inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 50-50-55-55 sts. Then cast off sts with K over K and P over P.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Place right band over left band and fasten at the bottom with small stitches. Sew the buttons on to the left band.


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HAT:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.2. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Dec 1 st after every marker as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).

DECREASE TIP-2:
Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

TUBE TIE:
Slip the 4 sts tog on 1 double pointed needle size 3 mm. K 1 row, * move all sts to the right side of needle without turning piece, tighten yarn and K over all sts *, repeat from *-* until desired length.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle from the bottom up, switch to double pointed needles when needed.

Cast on 96-112 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with petrol. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and K 1 round while at the same time dec 12-16 sts evenly = 84-96 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (= 7-8 repetitions of 12 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.2 has been worked, piece measures approx. 14 cm. Work with green until piece measures 15-17 cm. Now insert 6 markers in piece with 14-16 sts between every marker. On next round dec 1 st after every marker - SEE DECREASE TIP 1 (= 6 sts dec). Dec like this every other round a total of 5 times and then every round 3 times in total = 36-48 sts. On next round K all sts tog 2 by 2, K 1 round and K all sts tog 2 by 2 again = 9-12 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 20-22 cm.

EAR FLAP:
Cast on 40-44 sts with petrol and distribute sts on 2 double pointed needles size 3 mm = 20-22 sts on each needle. Work in stocking st in the round on these 2 needles - NOTE: Tighten yarn in every transition between the 2 needles when working. When ear flap measures 5-6 cm, insert 1 marker in each side. On next round dec 2 sts in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP 2. Dec like this every other round a total of 5-5 times and then every round 4-5 times in total = 4 sts remain on needle. Work TUBE TIE – see explanation above – over the remaining sts until tie measures approx. 20-25 cm. Cut the yarn and pull it through sts, tighten tog and fasten.
Knit another ear flap the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Place ear flaps approx. 3 cm in under rib on hat and fasten on WS - NOTE: There should be approx. 13-15 cm between ear flaps at the front (= approx. 7-9 cm between ear flaps at the back).

Make a pompom with green, 4-5 cm in diameter and fasten pompom at the top of hat.

Diagram explanations
symbol = light grey
symbol = green
symbol = off white
symbol = petrol
symbol = 1 YO between 2 sts in base colour in pattern stripe, on next row work YO twisted to avoid hole

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