DROPS / 171 / 18

A Royal Embrace by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat, neck warmer and mittens with textured pattern in “Eskimo”.

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-564
Yarn group E or C + C
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HAT:
Size: One-size
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 cm
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 21, blue/violet

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 6 mm – for rib.

NECK WARMER:
Size: One-size
Measurements: Circumference at the top: approx. 47 cm Circumference at the bottom: approx. 180 cm Height: approx. 36 cm
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
300 g colour no 21, blue/violet

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 7 mm – for rib.

MITTENS:
Size: S - M/L
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
100-100 g colour no 21, blue/violet

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm (size S) or SIZE 8 mm (size M/L) - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rows in stocking st (size S) or 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st (size M/L) = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm (size S) or SIZE 7 (size M/L) - for rib.

FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
450 g for both sizes in colour no 21, blue/violet

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.10£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
HAT:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed.

Cast on 62 sts on circular needle size 6 mm with Eskimo. K 1 round. Then work rib according to diagram A.1A (= 2 repetitions of 31 sts). When rib measures 4 cm, work next round as shown in diagram A.1B = 60 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 (= 2 repetitions of 30 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When diagram A.2 has been worked, 12 sts remain on needle. K 1 round while K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 6 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 24 cm from top and down.

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NECK WARMER:

MOSS ST:
ROUND 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 2: P over K and K over P.
Repeat 2nd round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.3.

INCREASE MID FRONT/MID BACK:
Inc 1 st on each side of the middle 2 sts front and back. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round K YO to make holes.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down.

Cast on 56 sts on a short circular needle size 7 mm with Eskimo. K 1 round. Work next round as follows: P 1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until
3 sts remain on round, finish with K 2 and P 1. Continue
rib like this until piece measures approx. 12 cm or desired length. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work next round as follows (beg of round = in the side): 3 sts MOSS ST – see explanation above (= over shoulder), A.3A (= 8 sts), 6 sts in stocking st (= front), A.3B (= 8 sts), 6 sts in moss st (= over shoulder), A.3A (= 8 sts), 6 sts in stocking st (= back), A.3B (= 8 sts) and 3 sts in moss st (= over shoulder). Insert 1 marker on each side of all A.3A/A.3B (markers are only used to indicate where A.3 beg and end – move markers upwards when working). Continue pattern like this and inc and dec as shown in A.3A/A.3B (work sts inc in moss st = 4 sts per inc round). AT THE SAME TIME on first round beg INC MID FRONT/MID BACK – see explanation above (= 4 sts inc per inc round – work inc sts in stocking st). Inc like this every other round 14 times in total (or desired length – approx. 5 cm remain until finished measurements). After all inc, 168 sts on needle.

RIB:
Switch to circular needle size 7 mm and work next round as follows (continue inc on each side of the middle 2 sts front and back on every other round until finished measurements): * K the first/next 17 sts and inc 4 sts over these sts (= 21 sts), P 2, K 2, P 2 over A.3, K the next 18 sts and inc 2 sts over these sts (= 20 sts), K 2 (= mid front), K over the next 18 sts and inc 2 sts over these sts (= 20 sts), P 2, K 2, P 2 over A.3 and K the next 17 sts and inc 4 sts over these sts (= 21 sts) *, repeat from *-* one more time = 192 sts on needle. Work next round as follows: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain on round and finish with P 2 and K 1 (rib will continue neatly over A.3 in the diagonal lines and over the 2 mid sts front and back – work sts inc mid front and mid back in rib).
When rib measures 2 cm, inc every other P 2 to P 3 = approx. 216 sts (inc 1 st by making 1 YO in transition between K and P, on next round P YO twisted to avoid holes). When rib measures approx. 5 cm (adjust to that 4 sts have been inc on each side of mid st front and back) cast off with K over K and P over P. Neck warmer measures approx. 36 cm from top and down on the shortest.

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MITTENS:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.4 to A.7.

INCREASE TIP (applies to displacement of pattern):
Inc 1 st before or after marker by making 1 YO. On next round K the YO to make hole.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before marker: Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog.
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LEFT MITTEN:
Work size S in the round on double pointed needles size 6 and 7 mm.
Work size M/L in the round on double pointed needles size 7 and 8 mm.
Cast on 30 sts on double pointed needles size 6-7 mm with Eskimo. K 1 round. Then work rib according to diagram A.4 (= 1 repetition of 30 sts). When piece measures 4 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 7-8 mm. Insert 1 marker
at beg of round and 1 marker after the first 7 sts on round - move the markers upwards when working. Then work pattern according to diagram A.5 (= 1 repetition of 30 sts). After 2 round beg displacement of pattern. Inc before first marker – READ INCREASE TIP and dec after 2nd marker – READ DECREASE TIP. Continue pattern AT THE SAME TIME inc and dec like this every other round 12 times in total (when displacement is done, remove markers and continue pattern without inc/dec). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13-14 cm, inc 1 st on each side of next to last st on round for thumb gusset (inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round K YO twisted to avoid holes). Work 1 round without inc for thumb gusset. On next round inc for thumb gusset on each side of 3 sts in thumb gusset = 5 sts in thumb gusset. Work 1-2 rounds without inc. Then slip the 5 thumb sts on 1 stitch holder. On next round cast on 1 new st behind sts on stitch holder = 30 sts. When piece measures 23-24 cm, insert 1 marker in each side (= 15 sts between markers). Work in stocking st over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every round a total of 6 times = 6 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. The entire mitten measures approx. 27-28 cm.

THUMB:
Slip the 5 thumb sts back on double pointed needles size 7-8 mm. Pick up 5 sts behind the thumb = 10 sts. Work stocking st in the round until thumb measures 5-6 cm. On next round K tog all sts 2 by 2 = 5 sts. Repeat on next round = 3 sts remain. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on and work as left mitten but reversed - i.e. work rib according to diagram A.6 and pattern according to diagram A.7. Then insert 1 marker after the first 23 sts and 1 marker at the end of round. When pattern is displaced, dec before first marker and inc after 2nd marker. Inc thumb gusset on each side of 2nd st on round.

Diagram

= K
= P
= no stitch, skip this square
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= P 2 tog
= K 3, pass first st worked over the other two so that st is around the last two sts (= 1 st dec)
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 st dec)
= P 3 tog (= 2 st dec)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Ingrid 05.02.2019 - 08:38:

Gillade inte att bården får helt olika utseende på vantarna. Den lyfta maskan ligger på längden på den ena vanten och på tvären på den andra. Lösningen blev att sticka vänstervanten spegelvänt, dvs sticka alla maskor från vänster till höger!

Helene 11.12.2018 - 23:20:

I diagrammet A2, skal de masker slået om strikkes drejet på næste pind? Det står ikke, men jeg kan ikke se huller på huen på billedet

DROPS Design 12.12.2018 kl. 09:27:

Hei Helene. I og med at det er samme symbol for kast i alle diagrammene skal det ikke strikkes vridd, og det skal bli hull. - du kan se det er hull langs flettene på halsen og vottene. Det er ikke så lett å se på luen da hullraden blir nesten på toppen, men det er en hullrad der også. Det er selvfølgelig ikke noe i veien for at du strikker kastene vridd om du ikke ønsker hull. God fornøyelse.

Jo-Ann Vickers 15.09.2018 - 03:04:

I am trying to knit the mitts. I am having difficulty with the A5 part of the pattern- the A5 is not 30 stitches? It is 29 stitches and when you take out the skip the square- it is 28 stitches? How do I do this? Thanks Jo-Ann Vickers Toronto, Ontario Canada

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 08:19:

Dear Mrs Vickers, work the first 7 sts as shown in A.5 - see how to work the mock cable with one YO on row 1 below - and knit all remaining sts to the end of round (our Designteam will edit the diagram, thank you). Happy knitting!

Nathalie.Bourassa 10.08.2018 - 13:27:

Au 5ième rangs je reprend la ligne 1 du diagramme A.3A mais entre mes 2 marqueurs il y a maintenant 10 mailles alors que la ligne 1 du diagramme A.3A compte 8 mailles a tricoté.......que dois-je faire avec les 2 mailles qui reste???

DROPS Design 10.08.2018 kl. 15:25:

Bonjour Mme Bourassa, vous devez tricoter ces 4 rangs entre les marqueurs que vous avez mis (qui délimitent les 8 mailles à tricoter au 1er rang), les augmentations se tricotent au point de riz (cf explications). Bon tricot!

Nathalie Bourassa 10.08.2018 - 02:02:

Dans le diagramme de A.3A et A.3B il y a 4 rangs d’indiqué.......rendu au 5ième rangs quel diagramme dois-je suivre ? Merci!

DROPS Design 10.08.2018 kl. 08:41:

Bonjour Mme Bourassa, reprenez simplement A.3A et A.3B au 1er rang et répétez les 4 rangs des diagrammes. Bon tricot!

Josette LAMOTHE 24.02.2018 - 10:37:

Bonjour ou se trouve le point fantaisie A3 MERCIIIIIIIII

DROPS Design 24.02.2018 kl. 15:34:

Bonjour, vous trouverez A.3a i A.3b a la fin, apres les explications. Bon travail!

Virginia 04.05.2017 - 18:30:

I used this lovely pattern but knit much longer, making a poncho. It turned out beautiful. Thanks

Christine Isnard 23.12.2016 - 10:05:

Pour le tour de cou, Combien de fois faut il tricoter A.3A et A.3B en hauteur? Ou bien à combien de cm faut il commencer les côtes? J' ai visionné la vidéo et relu plusieurs fois les explications mais cela n'est mentionné nulle part... Merci pour votre réponse.

DROPS Design 29.12.2016 kl. 13:19:

Bonjour Mme Isnard, on répète A.3a et A.4b jusqu'à ce que toutes les augmentations soient faites (ou, en fonction de la longueur souhaitée, il doit rester 5 cm avant la hauteur totale). Bon tricot!

Emelie 05.12.2016 - 19:51:

Det är vanten jag tänker på. /Emelie

DROPS Design 16.03.2017 kl. 11:23:

Hej Emelie, jo förskjutningen av mönstret börjar först efter 2 varv av mönstret och då hinner du med alla 12 tills du är klar med mönstret. Lycka till!

Emelie 04.12.2016 - 19:29:

Jag undrar om det verkligen är 12 förskjutningar? Jag tycker att det borde vara 14. Första maskan av de 7 borde bli den maskan som minskas först då arbetet börjar minskas. Annars blir minskningen "mitt i flätan". Har jag rätt eller ska det verkligen vara 12 förskjutningar? Mvh, Emelie

DROPS Design 05.12.2016 kl. 14:32:

Hej Emelie. Er det huen, vanterne eller halsen du mener? Tak!

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