Stonehenge by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with vents, raglan and yoke with wrong side out, worked top down in ”Cotton Merino”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cm-053
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-500-550 g colour no 18, medium grey
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour no 20, light grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for edges in garter st.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

RAGLAN:
NOTE: P all YOs on next round to make holes.
Inc 1 st after/before marker as follows:
After marker: P 1, 1 YO (= 1 st inc).
Before marker: Beg 1 st before marker, 1 YO (= 1 st inc), P 1.
Inc 2 st after/before marker as follows:
After marker: P 1, 1 YO (= 1 st inc), P 2 in next st (= 1 st inc)
Before marker: Beg 2 st before marker, P 2 in next st (= 1 st inc), 1 YO, (= 1 st inc), P 1.
When inc every 4th row, still work holes on every other round but work holes without inc, i.e. work as follows:
After marker: P 1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso
Before marker: Beg 3 st before marker, P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 1.

INCREASE TIP (applies to inc in the sides of body):
Beg 1 sts before marker, 1 YO, K 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec mid under sleeve as follows: Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round, top down. First work P, then work in stocking st.

YOKE:
Cast on 104-108-112-118-122-128 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with medium grey. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to light grey and circular needle size 4.5 mm and P 1 round while inc 20-20-24-22-22-24 sts evenly = 124-128-136-140-144-152 sts. On next round P and insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1 marker at beg of round, work 50-52-56-54-56-60 sts (= back piece), insert next marker, work the next 12-12-12-16-16-16 sts, insert next marker (= sleeve), work the next 50-52-56-54-56-60 sts (= front piece), insert last marker, work the remaining 12-12-12-16-16-16 sts (= sleeve). Continue with P.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
On next round beg inc for raglan. NOTE: Inc differently on sleeves and body - READ RAGLAN.
Inc as follows:
BODY: Inc 1 st after/before marker every other round 8-12-12-23-28-32 times in total, then inc 1 st after/before marker every 4th round 7-6-7-2-1-0 times in total.
SLEEVES: Inc 2 sts after/before marker every other round 2-4-5-4-2-1 times in total. Then inc 1 st after/before marker every other round 16-16-17-19-24-27 times in total and 1 st after/before marker every 4th round 2 times in total in all sizes.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 19-21-21-22-23-23 cm (from cast-on edge), switch to medium grey and continue in stocking st - NOTE: The 2 sts in the raglan (1 st on each side of each marker) continues i P, K the rest of sts (and YO). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION

After all inc are done there are 272-304-328-356-380-404 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm from shoulder (19-21-22-23-25-27 cm from cast-on edge). Now work as follows: Work the first 80-88-94-104-114-124 sts (= back piece), slip the next 56-64-70-74-76-78 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts), work the next 80-88-94-104-114-124 sts (= front piece), slip the next 56-64-70-74-76-78 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 176-192-208-228-252-276 sts. Work in stocking st in the round. When piece measures 2 cm in all sizes, inc in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 2½-2½-3-3-3-3½ cm a total of 7 times in all sizes = 204-220-236-256-280-304 sts. When piece measures 20-20-21-21-21-21 cm, work as follows: Work the first 102-110-118-128-140-152 sts (= back piece) and slip them on a stitch holder, work the remaining 102-110-118-128-140-152 sts (= front piece).

FRONT PIECE:
= 102-110-118-128-140-152 sts. Now work back and forth on circular needle. Work next row as follows from WS: 5 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, stocking st until 5 sts remain, work 5 sts in garter st. Continue to work like this until piece measures 31-31-32-32-32-32 cm. Switch to light grey and circular needle size 3.5 mm, work 3 ridges, cast off. Piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm in total from shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
= 102-110-118-128-140-152 sts. Work as front piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round.
Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle/ double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and cast in addition on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts under sleeve = 64-72-80-84-88-92 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Worked in stocking st in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles. When piece measures 2 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm 13-16-19-20-21-22 times in total = 38-40-42-44-46-48 sts. When piece measures 39-38-37-36-35-33 cm (NOTE: Short measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), switch to light grey and double pointed needle size 3.5 mm, work 3 ridges and cast off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Wie Teresa schon vor einigen Jahren, stolpere auch ich über die Angabe"Die Arbeit hat eine Gesamt länge von ca 22-24-... ab der Schulter (19-21-... ab dem Anschlagrand)." Wie kann die Länge ab Anschlagrand kürzer sein?

17.05.2020 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Charlotte, wegen Schulter wird die Arbeit länger wenn sie flach liegt als wenn sie von der Anschlagskante gemessen wird - siehe auch Maßskizze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.05.2020 kl. 08:43

country flag Birgitta Lööf wrote:

Hej! I rubriken står det att oket är med avigsidan ut. På bilden ser det också ut som att ok och ”kropp” är olika struktur. Men det står att allt ska var rätstickning - det ser inte randigt ur på det sätt som rätstickning brukar se ut. Förstår inte riktigt...? Är möjligen bild och mönster inte överensstämmande vad gäller detta? Ser ut som avigstickat (eller rätstickat) ok och slätstickad kropp. Tacksam för svar :-)

28.04.2020 - 00:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitta, Jo du börjar oket med 6 v rätstickning, sedan stickas det med avigsidan ut. Lycka till :)

28.04.2020 kl. 15:20

country flag Laura Kruus wrote:

Voisiko tähän malliin tehdä niskaan korotuksen?

13.01.2019 - 06:15

country flag Francien wrote:

Beste Drops, Hartelijk dank voor het snelle antwoord! Klopt het dat dan deze zin in het patroon moet worden aangepast: ‘Ga verder met lichtgrijs en rondbreinld 4,5 mm en brei 1 nld av en meerder 20-20-24-22-22-24 st gelijkmatig‘ ipv av moet daar dan recht staan toch?

01.01.2019 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Francien,

Dat klopt inderdaad, ik zal het doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling, maar het kan zijn dat dit effect bij het ontwerp hoort.

01.01.2019 kl. 19:40

country flag Fran wrote:

Beste Drops, Bedankt voor het antwoord, ik begrijp het. Ik snap in het eerste stukje nog niet hoe de ribbels in grijs netjes overlopen in lichtgrijs. Als ik namelijk de eerste pen na de ribbels in av doe, krijg je een lelijke kleurwisseling omdat de helft van de ribbel grijs is en de andere helft lichtgrijs. Dat zie ik niet op de afbeelding. Is het de bedoeling eerst nog een naald recht te doen om dit te voorkomen? Zo ja, in welke naald moet dan gemeerderd worden? Alvast dank.

30.12.2018 - 13:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Fran,

De eerste pen na de ribbels en dus de eerste pen in medium grijs, brei je recht, op die manier krijg je een mooie overgang.

01.01.2019 kl. 19:07

Evelyn wrote:

Thank you for your reply. I can understand that part but after the first round (body) increase of sleeve and body, I get 128+12 stitches for size M, is that correct?

21.12.2018 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Evelyn, the increase for raglan are then different on body and on sleeves, on body you increase 1 stitch at the beg of front/back piece + 1 st at the end of front/back piece 12 times every 2nd round + 6 times every 4th round while on sleeve you will increase 2 sts at the beg of sleeve + 2 sts at the end of sleeve 4 times every 2nd round then only 1 st at the beg + end of sleeve 16 times every 2nd round then 2 times every 4th round. ie when inc on body (2 sts) and sleeves (4 sts) you should have 12 more sts after 1st inc round. Happy knitting!

21.12.2018 kl. 13:26

Evelyn wrote:

Hi, for the first round of increase for the body and sleeves, how many stitches in total have been added? I am a bit confused as I am a new knitter. Many thanks

21.12.2018 - 05:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Evelyn, jumper is worked top down from neck. Choose your size and follow the indications to this size (ex. 1st size = 1st number, 2nd size = 2nd number and so on). So that after the ridges on yoke you will inc 20 sts in size S and M, 24 sts in size L and XXXL and 22 sts in size XL and XXL. Happy knitting!

21.12.2018 kl. 08:10

country flag Francien wrote:

Beste Drops, In de benodigdheden staat rondbreinaald én gewone naald zonder knop, zijn deze beide nodig of is het ook mogelijk alles op de rondbreinaald te doen? Ik zie in het patroon nog niet zo duidelijk waarvoor de gewone naald gebruikt wordt. Alvast hartelijk dank.

16.12.2018 - 19:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Francien,

De naalden zonder knop worden gebruikt voor de mouw, maar als daar handig in bent kun je ook de magic loop gebruiken, zodat je alleen rondbreinaalden nodig hebt. Zie deze video

17.12.2018 kl. 22:43

country flag Martine Lavoie wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis bloqué quand on augmente tous les 4 rangs et que nous continuons à faire des jours tous les 2 tours sans augmenter. Je ne sais pas comment le faire .. Pouvez-vous me donner plus d\'explication car j\'ai encore des tours au 2 tours pour les manches. Merci de me répondre.

04.07.2018 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lavoie, les augmentations du raglan se font à un rythme différent sur le dos/le devant et sur les manches, ainsi vous allez augmenter soit 8 mailles (= 2 m sur chaque manche, 2 sur le devant et 2 sur le dos) ou seulement 4 mailles (2 m par manche ou 2 m sur le dos + 2 m sur le devant). Pour les tours sans augmentations, augmentez comme indiqué sous "RAGLAN": Quand on augmente tous les 4 rangs... Bon tricot!

05.07.2018 kl. 07:33

country flag Saskia wrote:

Heerlijk zacht garen. Heb de trui in blauw met rose gebreid. Het ribbel randje aan de onderzijde was een ramp. Bleef maar omkrullen naar buiten. Heb die uiteindelijk weer afgehaald en een gewoon een boordsteek gebreid. Dan is het van boven naar onderbreien wel handig.

11.06.2018 - 10:21

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