Crystal Bright by DROPS Design
Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and textured pattern on yoke in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour no 1760, light grey purple
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk 70% Alpaca, 30% Silk |
from 4.10 £ /50g | Order | ||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.5 – choose diagram for correct size.
DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 252 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 40) = 6.3. I.e. in this example K approx. every 5th and 6th st tog.
DECREASE TIP-2:
Dec as follows after marker A and C: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).
Dec as follows before marker B and D: K 2 tog before marker (= 1 st dec).
INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.
KNITTING TIP:
If you want the jumper more narrow in the neck, continue rib in A.5 to desired measurements, but to avoid a wide neck dec evenly in P sections.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up.
BODY:
Cast on 252-276-300-330-366-396 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and K 1 round. Then work rib = K 1/P 2 in the round for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work pattern according to diagram A.1, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 40-44-52-58-62-64 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 212-232-248-272-304-332 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION After A.1 work in stocking st. When piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm, insert 4 markers in piece as follows: Insert first marker after the first 31-35-38-44-50-56 sts (= marker A), second marker after the next 44-46-48-48-52-54 sts (= marker B), third marker after the next 62-70-76-88-100-112 sts (= marker C) and fourth marker after the next 44-46-48-48-52-54 sts (= marker D), = 31-35-38-44-50-56 sts remain on needle after last marker. Move the markers upwards when working.
On next round, dec after marker A and C and before marker B and D – Read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts dec). Dec like this every 8th round 5-5-5-4-4-4 times in total = 192-212-228-256-288-316 sts. When piece measures 22-22-23-23-23-23 cm, inc after marker A and C and before marker B and D - READ INCREASE TIP - (= 4 sts inc). Inc like this every 6th-6th-6th-8th-8th-8th round 5-5-5-4-4-4 times in total = 212-232-248-272-304-332 sts. When piece measures 32-34-35-35-35-35 cm, work next round as follows: Cast off 5-5-6-6-7-8 sts for armhole, work stocking st over the next 96-106-112-124-138-150 sts as before (= back piece), cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts for armhole, work stocking st over the next 96-106-112-124-138-150 sts as before (= front piece) and cast off the remaining 5-5-6-6-7-8 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.
SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles bottom up, switch to a short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 46-48-50-52-56-58 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked, switch back to double pointed needles size 3 mm. K 1 round. Work next round as follows: K 1, P 2, work in stocking st until 3 sts remain on round, P 2 and K 1. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 6 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the middle 8 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc a total of 15-19-23-24-25-26 times in Size S: On every 8th round, in size M: On every 6th round, in size L: On every 5th round, in size XL: Alternately on every 4th and 5th round, in size XXL: On every 4th round and in size XXXL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round = 76-86-96-100-106-110 sts. When piece measures 43-43-42-41-39-37 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because longer yoke) cast off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts under sleeve = 66-76-84-88-92-94 sts on needle. Knit another sleeve the same way.
YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 3 mm as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 324-364-392-424-460-488 sts. K 2 rounds and dec AT THE SAME TIME 2-14-14-4-12-12 sts evenly on first round - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 322-350-378-420-448-476 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 23-25-27-30-32-34 repetitions of 14 sts). When A.2 has been worked, there are 276-300-324-360-384-408 sts on needle. K 2 rounds and dec AT THE SAME TIME 24-20-16-24-20-16 sts evenly on first round = 252-280-308-336-364-392 sts. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 (= 9-10-11-12-13-14 repetitions of 28 sts). When A.3 is done (follow diagram for correct size), there are 216-240-264-288-312-336 sts on needle. Now work pattern in the round according to diagram A.4 (= 9-10-11-12-13-14 repetitions of 24 sts). When A.4 has been worked, there are 180-200-220-240-260-280 sts on needle. K 2 rounds and dec AT THE SAME TIME 0-8-4-12-8-16 sts evenly on first round = 180-192-216-228-252-264 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.5 (choose diagram for correct size = 15-16-18-19-21-22 repetitions of 12 sts). On round marked with arrow in diagram switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm before continuing pattern. When A.5 has been worked, there are 90-96-108-114-126-132 sts on needle – READ KNITTING TIP and cast off with K from RS. Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.
Diagram
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= K |
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= P |
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= no stitch, skip this square |
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= K 1 st in front and back loop of same st (= 1 st inc) |
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= 1 BOBBLE: K 1 alternately in front and back of same st until there are 5 sts, turn and work 4 rows in stocking st back and forth over these 5 sts, then: * pass second st on right needle over last st worked *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total = 1 st remains |
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= 1 YO between 2 sts |
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= K 2 tog |
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= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso |
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= P 2 tog |
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= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle |
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= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle |
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= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 st dec) |
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= slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog from cable needle, P 2 tog from cable needle (= 3 sts dec) |
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= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2 tog, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog from cable needle (= 3 sts dec) |
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= K 3, pass first st worked over the other two so that st is around the last two sts on right needle (= 1 st dec) |
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= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle |
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= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, P 1 from cable needle |
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= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 1 from cable needle |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-51) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (23)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 275 catalogues and 10177 patterns - 10161 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Que significa 2pjdx ? Gracias
DROPS Design
24.09.2021 kl. 09:04:
Hola Noemi, debería ser 2 pjd (sin x), significa tejer 2 puntos juntos de derecho. Buen trabajo!Jag saknar mönsterrapporten med moucherna. Den fanns när jag började sticka men är nu borta?
DROPS Design
20.04.2021 kl. 07:27:
Hej Carola. Jag kan se alla 5 diagram här, kanske du behöver uppdatera sidan eller ev. testa en annan webläsare? Mvh DROPS DesignWhen knitting pattern A3 , especially after row 8, stitches begin to be displaced and do not fit the pattern either vertically or horizontally (no. of stitches is more than the pattern. I do not knit the black spaces, as indicated). I have carefully checked the total no of stitches and repetitions but the problem keeps coming up. Is there a problem with the pattern? Thank you.
DROPS Design
06.04.2021 kl. 11:11:
Dear Genap, on the 8th round you will increase 4 sts (see star) so that pattern wiil be repeated over 32 sts. On the 12th row you will increase 2 sts and pattern will be repeated over 34 sts. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!Vad har hänt med mönsterrapport A:4? Längtar efter att få sticka färdigt.
DROPS Design
01.03.2021 kl. 09:49:
Hej Carola. Diagram A.4 hittar du precis under diagram A.3 (över A.5). Mvh DROPS DesignMönsterrapporten A:4 har helt plötsligt förändrats, massor av varv har försvunnit. Ledsen över att inte kunna fortsätta att sticka oket...
Muy bueno que compartan los patrones de los tejidos casi uno puede aprender hacer bien un a prenda tejida muchas gracias
Goede middag, hartelijk dank voor dit patroon. Mijn vraag is: waarom zijn de verklarende tekens niet allemaal ingevuld, ik begin net met de pas en de tekens zijn weg. Hoe en waar kan ik ze vinden? Vriendelijke groeten, An
Dag An,
Bij het telpatroon staan alle symbolen uitgelegd boven de telpatronen. Ik zie geen ontbrekende tekens, maar mogelijk laadde de pagina (tijdelijk) niet goed.
Bonjour j'ai un souci avec le rang 18. Je ne comprends pas pourquoi le diagramme indique qu'il faut faire 4m env dans la seconde partie du motif. Si je fais 4m env, la 4ème m est alors au-dessus de la m endroit qui a été tricotée double au rang 17 ce qui fait que le motif est décalé. J'ai zoomé la photo et il ne me semble pas y avoir 4m env à ce niveau là. Merci de m'éclairer
DROPS Design
18.02.2019 kl. 09:56:
Bonjour Marie, pouvez-vous nous indiquer la taille que vous tricotez et le diagramme dont il s'agit? Merci!Hei,\\r\\nJeg strikker genser størrelse.M til runde 18. men jeg ikke kunne finne 4 vrang etter jeg er ferdig 4 vrang-2 rett-3 vrang- 1 rett- 2 vrang- 1 rett. Jeg har akkurat fått samme problemet som Henriksen fikk. Hvordan kan jeg strikke runde 18?\\r\\nMvh,\\r\\nTam Hagen
DROPS Design
11.06.2018 kl. 08:26:
Hei Tam. Vi har nå strikket opp en rapport av A.3, og det var ikke noe feil der. Dette er et mønster med mye som skjer så det kan være litt krevende å holde oversikten. På omgang 17 flettes det over 6 masker, som felles til å bli 3 masker (det kan virke som fletten går over 7 masker, men den ene er en svart firkant = ingen maske). På 18 omgang strikkes de 3 første maskene i diagrammet vrang. De 3 maskene som ble flettet forrige runde strikkes slik: 1 vr, 2r. Videre strikkes 3vr, 1r, 2vr, 1r. Igjen er det 3 vrang før de 3 maskene som ble flettet forrige omgang. Og igjen strikkes disse flettemaskene 1vr, 2r. Du vil da ha 4 vrangmasker før fletten. God fornøyelse.Hej igen, på diagram A3, på rad 8 är det en ”stjärna” som inte finns med över beskrivningarna vad tecknet betyder, för tecknet finns ju inte med. Hoppas det går lite fortare och få svar denna ggn.
DROPS Design
02.02.2018 kl. 14:05:
Hei Brittinger. Stjernen finner du i 8. og 12. omgang i diagram A.3, og beskrivelsen står sammen med de andre diagramforklaringen (4. tegn/beskrivelse). (stjerne = sticka 1 rm fram och bak i samma m (= 1 m ökad)). God Fornøyelse