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  1. Free patterns
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  4. Hats
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  6. DROPS
  7. 171
  8. 56

Malin by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat, mittens and neck warmer with lace pattern and rib in ”Alaska”.

Keywords: cosy hands, hat, headwear, lace, mittens, neck warmer, set, wave pattern

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DROPS 171-56
DROPS design: Pattern no x-417
Yarn group C or A + A
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HAT:
Size: S/M – M/L
Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
100-100 g colour no 40, old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for rib - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

MITTENS:
Size: S/M - L
Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
100-100 g colour no 40, old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm – for rib

NECK WARMER:
Size: One-size
Circumference at the bottom: 85 cm
Circumference at the top: 65 cm
Height: 34 cm

Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 40, old pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm (60 cm) - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm (60 cm) - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm - for rib.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7.



INCREASE TIP (applies to mittens):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mittens):
Dec as follows before first marker:
Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 sts tog.
Dec as follows after marker:
Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck warmer):
Dec at beg of stocking st section as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, work next st, psso.
Dec at end of stocking st section as follows: Work until 2 sts in stocking st remain, K 2 tog.

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HAT:
Cast on 83-95 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Alaska. K 1 round, then work as follows: A.1 (= 17 sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 64-76 sts, finish with 2 K. Continue like this until piece measures 4 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work A.2 over sts in A.1 (= 17 sts), and work in stocking st over the remaining 66-78 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 15-16 cm, insert 6 markers in piece as follows: Insert first marker in first st in stocking st after A.2, then insert the next 5 markers with 10-12 sts apart (= 10-12 sts after last marker). Continue in stocking st and A.2, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st after every marker (K st with marker tog with next st), dec every other round 2 times (= 71-83 sts), then work A.3 over sts in A.2 (adjust after one whole repetition of A.2), continue with dec in stocking st every other round 6 more times, dec in A.3 until A.3 has been worked = 27-39 sts remain on round. K all sts tog 2 by 2, cut the yarn, pull it through the remaining sts and tighten. Fasten the strand. Piece measures approx. 23-24 cm.
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MITTENS:

LEFT MITTEN:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 43-47 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Alaska and K 1 round. Then work as follows: K 1-2, A.1 (= 17 sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 24-28 sts, finish with 1-0 K. When piece measures 4 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Continue as follows: K 1-2, A.1, K the remaining sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 7 sts over these sts = 36-40 sts. Then work as follows: K 1-2, A.2 (= 17 sts), K the remaining sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the 34th-38th st on round for thumb (= 2 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc on each side of the inc sts on every other round a total of 5 times = 46-50 sts. Now slip the 11 thumb sts on 1 stitch holder. Work in stocking st and A.2 in the round AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st behind thumb on next round = 36-40 sts. Continue in stocking st and A.2 in the round until piece measures 21-22 cm. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 19-21 sts. Continue with A.3 over A.2, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st before first marker and 1 st after the second marker - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every other round 6 more times = 14-18 sts remain on needle. Work all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

THUMB:
Slip the 11 thumb sts back on double pointed needles size 4 mm. In addition pick up 4-5 sts behind thumb = 15-16 sts. Work in stocking st until the thumb itself measures approx. 4½-5 cm (try on the mitten, approx. ½ cm remains until finished measurements). K 2 rounds AT THE SAME TIME K all sts tog 2 by 2 on both rounds. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on and work as left but inc for thumb on each side of the 21st-23rd st.

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NECK WARMER:
Cast on 150 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Alaska. K 1 round, then work as follows: * A.1 (= 17 sts), A.4 (= 13 sts) *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total. When piece measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work as follows: * A.2 (= 17 sts), stocking st over the next 13 sts *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When piece measures 6 cm, dec 1 st on beg of each stocking st section - READ DECREASE TIP-2 = 145 sts. Dec alternately at beg and end of stocking st sections every 6 cm 4 times in total = 130 sts. When piece measures 26 cm, continue with A.5 over all A.2, continue the remaining sts in stocking st. Work A.5 1 time vertically (piece measures approx. 30 cm and there are 110 sts on round). Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and continue as follows: * A.6 (= 13 sts), A.7 (= 9 sts) *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total. Work A.6 and A.7 for 4 cm, then cast off with K over K and P over P, piece measures 34 cm.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 4 tog
symbols = K 4 twisted tog
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-56) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Dorte Christensen wrote:

Opskriften til hals kan jeg godt følge at jeg skal tage ind hver 6 cm. Skiftevis først og sidst på glatstrikning. Så jeg til sidst ender på 130 masker når arbejdet måler 24 cm. Men når arbejdet måler 30 cm, så er der pludselig kun 110 masker hvor og hvordan tager jeg 20 masker ind på de 6 cm

07.01.2022 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Dorte, når arbejdet måler 26 cm strikkes A.5, du tager ind ifølge 3. og 7.p i A.5. God fornøjelse!

17.01.2022 kl. 09:16

country flag Cinzia wrote:

Mille grazie per il favoloso supporto !

25.11.2019 - 13:12

country flag Cinzia wrote:

E di nuovo Buongiorno ! Forse ci sono arrivata da sola,dopo una attenta lettura più volte ,ho capito che bisogna specificare nelle spiegazioni che lo schema A2 va lavorato fino ad un'altezza di 15-16 cm è da lì che iniziano le diminuzioni! giusto? Io ho rifatto il lavoro! Speriamo sia giusto😉

24.11.2019 - 06:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Cinzia. Sì è corretto. Lavora il diagramma A.2 fino a 15-16 cm, poi diminuisce come indicato. Quando ha 71-83 m, verifica di aver lavorato tutte e quattro le righe di A2; lavora poi il diagramma A3 continuando a diminuire ogni 2 giri per 6 volte. Buon lavoro!

25.11.2019 kl. 09:23

country flag Cinzia wrote:

Buongiorno eccomi di nuovo! Non sono chiare le spiegazioni Sono ferma! ho lavorato tutto lo schema 3 senza diminuire, a detta delle spiegazioni bisogna diminuire a 15-16 cm dal lavoro. ( io sono a 9cm finito lo schema A3 Ma poi dice diminuire dallo schema A2 (non capisco) inoltre che sequenza seguire sugli schemi? quante volte va lavorato lo schema A2 ? Grazie infinite siete gentilissimi

23.11.2019 - 02:05

country flag Cinzia wrote:

Grazie mille per la Vostra cortese risposta,ma ho un'altra domanda,(sono alle prime armi scusate) come si fa una maglia gettata tra due maglie? Sono arrivata allo schema A2 non riesco a capire dal video tutorial mi sembra quasi una maglia al rovescio Grazie infinite per la pazienza !

21.11.2019 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Cinzia. Per fare un gettato, deve avvolgere il filo intorno al ferro. Le alleghiamo due video. Il primo spiega come fare un gettato. Il secondo può aiutarla per lavorare il diagramma A.3: anche qui si vede come fare i gettati. Ci riscriva se ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

22.11.2019 kl. 08:47

country flag Cinzia Mastromatteo wrote:

Buongiorno non mi è chiara la spiegazione dello schema A1 mi rimane una maglia in più con 95 punti forse lo schema a1 lo devo lavorare solo sulle prime 17 maglie? Grazie

21.11.2019 - 08:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Cinzia. Sì, lavora il diagramma A.1 solo sulle prime 17 maglie; lavora le altre maglie a coste 2 m dir / 2 m rov e finisce il giro con 2 m dir. Buon lavoro!

21.11.2019 kl. 08:22

country flag Anna wrote:

Buongiorno, sto facendo il berretto, seguendo il vostro schema. Al momento delle diminuzioni mi viene fuori una antiestetica riga obliqua (diminuzioni) sul lato anteriore del berretto a sinistra del diagramma n.2. Potreste darmi un suggerimento affinché le diminuzioni in questione abbiano un risultato simmetrico? All'inizio delle spiegazioni mettete come occorrente anche dei ferri a doppia punta, poiché non è chiaro, a che punto dovrei usarli? Grazie molte

24.01.2019 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna. Potrebbe provare a mettere il primo e l'ultimo segnapunti a distanza uguale dal motivo centrale (p.es a 5 maglie a destra e a sinistra) e posizionare gli altri segnapunti sulle restanti maglie a intervalli regolari. Potrebbe preferire lavorare con i ferri a doppia punta la parte finale del berretto, quando il numero delle maglie è basso. Buon lavoro!

24.01.2019 kl. 17:00

country flag Lea wrote:

Für die Fäustlinge habe ich noch keine maschenprobe gemacht, aber sollte ich da auch eine größere Nadel brauchen wovon ich ausgehe muss ich dann fürs Bündchen einfach eine halbe Nr. kleiner nehmen? zb wenn ich für die Fäustlinge ne Nadel 6 ermittel dann fürs Bündchen ne 5,5 nadel nehmen?

12.01.2019 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lea, also am besten stricken Sie Ihre Maschenprobe, so sind Sie mit der Nadelgrösse sicher, aber wenn Sie 19 M x 25 Reihe glatt gestrickt mit Nadelgrösse 6 bekommen, dann brauchen Sie wahrscheinlich Nadelgrösse 5,5 für das Bündchen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.01.2019 kl. 10:13

country flag Lea wrote:

Ich brauche laut probe für die Mütze und den schal die Nadeln 6 und 6,5 ändert sich durch die Größeren Nadeln der Wollverbrauch oder bleibt der für die Mütze bei 100g und für den schal bei 200g?

12.01.2019 - 15:59

country flag Mary wrote:

Ciao..Prima di eseguire il diagramma A.3 bisogna lavorare per intero nuovamente 1 volta il diagramma A.2 e poi proseguire con lo schema A3 e fare le diminuzioni per 6 volte?

16.11.2018 - 03:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mary, deve lavorare 1 volta il diagramma A.2 e poi proseguire con A.3. Buon lavoro!

16.11.2018 kl. 08:50

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.