DROPS Extra / 0-1234

Warm Lavender by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS head band and neck warmer with rib in ”Eskimo”.

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-536
Yarn group E or C + C
Size: S - M - L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 – 58/60 cm.
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 54, medium purple

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Size: S/M – L/XL
Measurements: Height: 24-26 cm Circumference: approx. 65-76 cm
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 54, medium purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 22 sts on needle size 7 mm with Eskimo. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work A.1 (= 22 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Repeat A.1 until piece measures 14-15-16 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS). Work A.2 over A.1. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 10 sts on needle. Work A.3 1 time vertically. Work A.4 over A.3. Work YOs twisted in pattern. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 22 sts on needle. Work A.1 until piece measures 48-50-52 cm. Work 1 ridge. Cast off. Sew tog cast on edge to cast off edge.

Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 72-84 sts on circular needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Work A.5 (= 12 sts) 6-7 times in width in total. When piece measures 4 cm, work A.6 over A.5. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 20-22 cm, adjust after one whole repetition of A.6, work A.5 over A.6. Cast off when piece measures 24-26 cm.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO twisted on next row
= 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO twisted on next row
= P 2 tog
= slip 5 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 5, K 5 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1234) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Mallory 11.01.2020 - 18:01:

Hi there, although this is a beautiful pattern, I feel like it was poorly written and drawn out in the diagrams. Multiple times I would look at the diagram and then my stitches. There where stitches that would disappear on the diagram (still on my needle) and then reappear on another row. As well as the twist, if you K5 from your working and K5 from the new, it will NOT come out right. Beautiful pattern, Horrible instructions.

Sondra 10.01.2019 - 01:23:

Working the headband (straight needles) and confused by “missing boxes” in pattern A.2. Row 1, for example, appears to start on 2nd stitch and skip 4th and 5th, 7th (ie boxes missing). How do I interpret the empty spaces? Also not sure how to interpret heavy short diagonal line intermittent across second row. Nothing in diagram key matches exactly. Thabks

DROPS Design 10.01.2019 kl. 10:03:

Dear Sondra, start reading the diagram from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS (and from the left towards the right from WS), working A.2 you will then dec 1 st (= P2 tog) in the middle of A.2, on next row the missing stitch is matching the st you decreased before. Happy knitting!

Monica Panera 14.12.2018 - 07:38:

Buongiorno , Volevo fare un'ultima domanda. Ogni riga di uno schema è un ferro e rappresenta i punti da fare sul diritto del lavoro ,ciò significa che ogni riga è un ferro diritto è un ferro rovescio? Spero di essere stata chiara.Grazie dell'aiuto.

DROPS Design 14.12.2018 kl. 08:29:

Buongiorno Monica. Nel diagramma trova tutti i ferri da lavorare seguendo il motivo stesso. Quindi: primo ferro (dal basso) si lavora sul diritto del lavoro; secondo ferro si lavora sul rovescio del lavoro; terzo ferro sul diritto e così via. Buon lavoro!

Monica Panera 13.12.2018 - 19:05:

Buonasera, non riesco a capire lo schema A3 della fascia per capelli modello Warm Lavender. Non capisco perché devo mettere 5 punti su un ferro ausiliario e come procedere con il lavoro. Ho un buio totale. Grazie per il vostro aiuto. Panera Monica

DROPS Design 13.12.2018 kl. 22:22:

Buonasera Monica, le 5 maglie vengono messe in sospeso per creare la treccia. Deve metterle su un ferro ausiliario sul davanti del lavoro, lavorare 5 maglie a diritto e lavorare le 5 maglie in sospeso a diritto, creando così la treccia. Buon lavoro!

Monica Panera 12.12.2018 - 16:49:

Buongiorno, ho difficoltà a capire lo schema A2 della fascia per capelli che sto facendo Warm Lavender modello:ee-536 Quando nello schema non vi sono quadratini che spiegano il punto da fare ma c'è il vuoto cosa significa? Che il punto è da passare sull'altro ferro senza lavorarlo? Aspetto una vostra gentile risposta.Grazie

DROPS Design 12.12.2018 kl. 17:02:

Buongiorno Monica. Trova un vuoto perchè al ferro precedente è stata diminuita una maglia. Quando incontra il vuoto, deve lavorare la maglia come indicato nel quadratino successivo. Quindi per es., alla riga 6 del diagramma A2 (riga lavorata sul rovescio, quindi si legge da sinistra verso destra), lavora: 3 m rovescio, 3 m diritto, 2 maglie rovescio e così via. Buon lavoro!

Alva 23.02.2018 - 21:35:

Hur många masker ska man lägga upp om man har 4mm stickor och garn till stickorna?

DROPS Design 24.02.2018 kl. 09:34:

Hei Alva. Oppskriften er skrevet til pinne 7 og Eskimo ... et garn som er tykkere og koster ca 15 kr for 50 gr ... kanske du skulle bytte garn - da blir den myk og fin og du kan bruke oppskriften :) Go Fornøyelse.

Sandra 25.11.2017 - 22:47:

What is meant by: K YO twisted on next row & P YO twisted on next row?

DROPS Design 26.11.2017 kl. 06:49:

Hi Sandra, To avoid a hole after increasing by making a yarn over (YO) you need to work them twisted. Either this will be knitted twisted or purled twisted depending on the pattern. To work twisted you need to insert the needle in the back loop of the stitch, rather than the front. I hope this helps. Happy knitting!

Sandra 23.11.2017 - 01:03:

Part 2: I am so confused! YouTube person says that when you are reading charts in the round, everything is always read from Right to Left. So what is the right way?

DROPS Design 23.11.2017 kl. 08:35:

Dear Sandra, that's right, diagrams will be read here from the right towards the left every round (= you are working here in the round, ie from RS) starting on the bottom corner on the right side. Read more here. Happy knitting!

Sandra 23.11.2017 - 01:02:

Part 1: A friend of mine read chart A.6 as this: "I'm looking at that exact pattern and this particular chart A6 is just k2tog, yo, k, k. The cable is worked in chart A3. In laments terms this would read: R1: p4, k3, p2, k3 R2: p3, k2, p3, k2tog, yo, k2 R3: p4, k3, p2, k3 R4: p3, k2, p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1 R5: p4, k3, p2, k3 R6: p3, k2, p3, k2, k2tog, yo R7: p4, k3, p2, k3 R8: p3, k2, p3, k4" Is this correct?

DROPS Design 23.11.2017 kl. 08:33:

Dear Sandra, start reading diag. from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left on every round (from RS), so that on row 3 in A.3 work the cable (previous and next rows are K from RS) and work row 3 in A.6 as follows: P3, K2, P3, K2, K2 tog, YO. When diagrams are done in height, repeat from row 1. Happy knitting!

Sandra 22.11.2017 - 01:33:

Hi again...sorry for bugging you. In chart A6 of the neck warmer pattern - 1 slant from Right to Left over 2 squares then a yarn over is a cable (right?). How does this work? Slip 2 sts onto a cable needle (to the front or back yarn over then yarn over then knit from the cable?

DROPS Design 22.11.2017 kl. 09:10:

Dear Sandra, the symbol used in A.6 with a slant line is 3rd symbol under diagram text, ie Knit 2 stitches together (and then make a YO (= 5th symbol) to compensate this dec). Happy knitting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-1234

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.