Dainty Date by DROPS Design

DROPS Lace Cardigan in Safran.

DROPS 68-8
Sizes: S/M - M/L - XL
Finished measurements: 86-96-106 cm

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
100% Egyptian cotton, 50 g/160 m
300-350-400 g. col. no. 05, light blue violet.
50 - 50 - 50 g. col. no. 06, denim blue
50 - 50 - 50 g. col. no. 08, lilac.

2 m of 0.6 cm wide ribbon in matching color

Alternate yarns:
* DROPS SILKE-TWEED, 52% silk, 48% lambswool, 50 g./200 m
* DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE, 54% Egyptian cotton, 46% viscose, 50 g./110 m

DROPS 3 mm circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette st.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Knitting tips (for neck):
All decs are made on right side rows inside of 4 edge sts in garter st. Dec 1 st as follows:
Before 4 edge sts: K 2 tog.
After 4 edge sts: sl 1, K 1, psso.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Body: Cast on 219-243-267 sts on circular needles with 2 strands denim blue. Change to 1 strand and knit 2 rows garter st. Change to light blue violet and establish the next row as follows: K 4 (button band knit in garter st throughout), K 1 (stockinette st), 209-233-257 sts of Pattern 1, K 1 (stockinette st), K 4 (button band knit in garter st). Knit in pattern as established until the piece measures approx. 29-30-31 cm – adjust so you end with the last row of Pattern 1 – then knit Pattern 2 once, then Pattern 3 to finished dimensions, keeping the 5 sts at each side (button bands) the same as initially established (4 sts in garter st + 1 stockinette st).
Read the entire next section before knitting:
At the same time as you begin Pattern 3 knit 2 rows garter st over only the outer 4 sts of the button band (the remaining sts are not knit on these 2 rows). Then dec 1 st for the neck inside the 4 garter st edge sts 18-18-18 times every other row and then 6-7-7 times every 4th row - see knitting tips. After the 2nd neck dec (the piece measures approx. 33-34-36 cm) knit the next row as follows: 50-56-62 sts for the front, bind off 7 sts for armhole, 101-113-125 sts for the back, bind off 7 sts for armhole, 50-56-62 sts for the front. Knit each piece separately.

Left Front: = 50-56-62 sts. Continue shaping neck as instructed above and at the same time bind off for armhole every other row: 2 sts 2-3-5 times and 1 st 2-5-6 times. After all neck and armhole shaping is complete 24-24-25 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures approx. 52-54-56 cm - adjust so you bind off after at least 2 rows stockinette st over all sts (no lace).

Right Front: Knit the same as the left front, reversing all shaping.

Back: = 101-113-125 sts. Bind off for armhole at each side as on front = 89-91-93 sts. When the piece measures approx. 49-51-53 cm - adjust so there are at least 2 rows stockinette st over all sts - knit 4 rows garter st over the center 45-47-47 sts. On the next row bind off the center 37-39-39 sts for the neck, and knit 4 sts at each neck edge in garter st to finished measurements. Dec 1 st for the neck every other row 2 times inside 4 edge sts in garter st - see knitting tips = 24-24-25 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures the same as the fronts.

Sleeve: Cast on 62-62-62 sts with 2 strands lilac. Change to 1 strand denim blue and establish the pattern on the next row as follows (right side row):
K 1 (edge st knit in garter st throughout), 6 sts of Pattern 4A, 48 sts of Pattern 4B, 6 sts of Pattern 4C, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st throughout). Knit Pattern 4 twice (40 rows). Change to lilac and Pattern 5 once (keep edge sts in garter st).
Change to light blue violet and Pattern 1. At the same time when the piece measures 15 cm inc 1 st at each side a total of 10-13-13 times every 12-9-8 rows = 82-88-88 sts. Knit the increased sts knit into the pattern as you go along. When sleeves measures 49-47-45 cm (adjust so you end on the last row of Pattern 1) knit Pattern 2 once, then Pattern 3 to finished dimensions. When sleeve measures 51-50-48 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 2-2-2 times, 2 sts 3-4-2 times, 1 st 3-3-9 times, then bind off 2 sts 3-3-2 times, then bind off 3 sts at each side until the piece measures 59-59-59 cm. Bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve seam using edge sts as seam allowance. Sew in the sleeves. Cut ribbon in 3 parts, 2 each 60 cm long and 1 80 cm long. Thread one of the 60 cm ribbons through the holes in Pattern 5 of each sleeve and fasten on the wrong side. Use the 80 cm long ribbon uses to tie together the cardigan at center front. Thread one end through the inside of the right button band at the beginning of the neck shaping, and the other end through the left side. Tie together at center front.


symbols = K
symbols = yo
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = sl 1, K 1, psso.
symbols = sl 1, K 2 tog, psso.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 68-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Barbara wrote:

Ile razy należy wykonać rzędy skrócone? Czy tylko w pierwszym rzędzie schematu M3?

22.09.2020 - 19:48

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Barbaro! Przerabiasz rzędy skrócone tylko w 1-szym rzędzie schematu M3. Pozdrawiamy!

24.09.2020 kl. 08:14

country flag Angela Beer wrote:

Thank you for responding to my question. When re-reading the pattern I see I was over complicating it. I always peruse the patterns before I contemplate knitting them. However I must say that Drops yarn is fantastic both in colour range and quality. I have knitted and crocheted many of the flowers, hats, scarves and winter decorations. Thank you for providing continued interest and design to so many people. It is very inspiring.

07.10.2019 - 12:58

country flag Angela Beer wrote:

Pretty design but instructions do not seem very clear. Pattern does not seem to correspond with the M1 to M 5 in as much as which ones are for the sleeves and which ones are for the body. There is a remark to follow corrected chart of the pattern but which is the corrected one? Please I don't mean to criticise but unless carrying out a rough sample of the pattern on some scrap yarn first I feel some clearer explanation would have been nice. I am a dedicated fan of Drops yarns.

05.10.2019 - 10:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Beer, you work now in rows (= short rows), ie on first row, work the first 4 stitches at the beg of the row and slip these 4 sts on a thread, continue working all stitches to the end of the row, turn, work the first 4 sts and slip them on a thread, work to the end of the row (= there are now 4 sts on each side on a thread). Continue like this but slipping the first 2 stitches worked at the beginning of each row on each side (= both from RS and from WS) until 1 stitch remain on needle (= the middle stitch). Hope it helps, happy knitting!

07.10.2019 kl. 10:48

country flag Ágnes Bárányné Vizi wrote:

Vagyis 3-3-2 alkalommal.

02.09.2017 - 12:02

country flag Ágnes Bárányné Vizi wrote:

Az ujja leírás végén kimaradt egy rész: az utolsó 3 szem leláncolás előtt még van 2 szem leláncolása 2-3-3 alkalommal.

02.09.2017 - 11:57

country flag Inez Huizinga wrote:

Hoe kan ik dit patroon in een grotere maat breien?

21.05.2017 - 12:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Inez, Als je voldoende ervaring hebt met patronen, dan zou je hem bijvoorbeeld groter kunnen maken met de volgende tips: - meer patroonherhalingen in de breedte/hoogte maken op het lijf en en mouwen(of meer tricotsteken tussen de herhalingen) - maak evt. meerderingen of minderingen na de mouwboord voor het juiste aantal steken voor mouwpatroon - Het armsgat en mouwkop evt. aanpassen - Eventueel kun je voor de maten kijken naar een bestaand patroon. - Let er op dat verandering van maatvoering ook effect heeft op halslijn, schouderbreedte etc. - Eerst goed meten en rekenen voor je begint.

22.05.2017 kl. 16:32

country flag MK wrote:

Re: pattern 1. It is to be done over 233 stitches. It is a 12 repeat pattern and 12 does not go into 233 evenly. Am I reading this wrong, or is the pattern wrong? Please advise. thank you so much!

20.05.2017 - 07:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear MK, you will work M.1 as follows: repeat the 12 sts in M1 a total of 19 times, then work the first 5 sts in M1 = 19 x 12 sts + 5 = 233 sts. Happy knitting!

22.05.2017 kl. 09:36

country flag Norma Bradley wrote:

I have downloaded drops 68-8 and gave clicked on the website for help because the pattern seems to be incorrect, and it takes me to another pattern. I think the larger chart on the page is incorrect. Can you confirm this please?

19.04.2017 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Norma, the chart seems to be correct. However, we still will send your question to the design department.

22.04.2017 kl. 14:06

country flag Thely wrote:

Az ábraleírásnál a \ vonalnál nem "1 sima" hanem "1et átemel" van. Ugyanez az alatta lévő sorban. Köszönjük a megjegyzést, a hiba javításra került.

05.09.2015 - 00:55

country flag Martine Wrede wrote:

Bonjour, tout allait bien jusqu'aux manches, j'ai des mailles en trop sur le diagramme M4 A à C à la hauteur de rang 8 et suivants. merci de me répondre pour que je puisse avancer

25.06.2015 - 14:46

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