DROPS Extra / 0-1197

Christmas Magic by DROPS Design

Knitted mittens in DROPS Air. Mittens are worked with Nordic pattern. One size. Theme: Christmas

  • Christmas Magic / DROPS Extra 0-1197 - Knitted mittens in DROPS Air. Mittens are worked with Nordic pattern. One size. Theme: Christmas
  • Christmas Magic / DROPS Extra 0-1197 - Knitted mittens in DROPS Air. Mittens are worked with Nordic pattern. One size. Theme: Christmas
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-026
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: One-size
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 02, wheat
50 g colour no 12, moss green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with moss green and K 1 round. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 5 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and K 1 round while at the same time dec 4 sts evenly = 36 sts. Then continue in stocking st until finished measurements. Work A.1 over all sts (= 6 repetitions in width). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with wheat - REMEMBER KNITTING TENSION. When piece measures 9 cm, inc 1 st on each side of first st on round for thumb - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc on each side of the inc sts on every other round a total of 5 times = 46 sts. Now slip the 11 thumb sts on 1 stitch holder. Work 1 round and cast on 1 new st behind the thumb = 36 sts. Work A.2 over all sts (= 6 repetitions in width). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, insert 1 marker in each side (= 18 sts between markers) and continue in wheat until piece measures approx. 22 cm (try the mitten, approx. 4 cm remain until finished measurements). On next round dec in each side as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, repeat dec every other round 2 more times, then every round 4 times = 8 sts remain. On next round, K all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Slip the 11 thumb sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm and in addition knit up 4 sts along the edge behind the thumb sts with wheat = 15 sts. Work in stocking st until the thumb itself measures approx. 5 cm (try on the mitten, approx. ½ cm remains until finished measurements). K 2 rounds AT THE SAME TIME K all sts tog 2 by 2 on both rounds. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Work as right mitten but reversed, i.e. inc for thumb on each side of last st on round (instead of each side of first st on round).


symbols = wheat
symbols = moss green

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1197) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Ket 31.10.2020 - 19:37:

Hei! Skjønner ikke helt hvor tommelen skal ligge? Skjønner hvordan økingen funger men.. så videoen men hjalp egt. Ikek

user icon DROPS Design 02.11.2020 kl. 13:24:

Hei Ket. Litt usikker på ha du mener med hvor tommelen ligger. På høyre vott øker du til tommel ved første maske, men venstre vott øker du ved siste maske. mvh DROPS design

country flag Tina 01.07.2020 - 20:52:

Hej! Jag förstår inte riktigt den här meningen: ” När arb mäter 9 cm ökas det 1 m på varje sida av första m på v till tumme”

user icon DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 10:15:

Hej Tina. Det är ökningen till tumkilen som börjar här och du ökar genom att göra ett omslag innan första maskan på varet, sticka den första maskan på varvet och sedan göra ett omslag till. På nästa varv stickas omslagen vridet rät så att det inte blir hål. Du upprepar ökningen på vartannat varv (totalt 5 gånger). Se gärna denna video för att se hur du gör för att öka. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Hilal 31.03.2020 - 15:39:

Hei, jeg strikker disse vottene men de ble veldig små i størrelsen. Er dette en onesize for barn eller voksne?

user icon DROPS Design 02.04.2020 kl. 08:54:

Hei Hilal, De er voksen størrelse. Har du sjekket strikkefastheten din? Hvis du vil ha større votter kan du bruke en pinnestørrelse større. God fornøyelse!

country flag Mari Farlund 23.03.2020 - 17:12:

Hei. Disse vottene ble veldig små. Står onesize, men det synes jeg ikke stemmer.

country flag Ctheusine 12.01.2020 - 07:08:

Bonjour, Je réalise ces moufles pour la 2eme fois, je les aime beaucoup. En revanche, j'ai trouvé que c'était resserré au niveau du dessin A2 même en changeant de taille d'aiguille. De ce fait, pour cette 2eme paire, j'ai fait 6 augmentations avant A2 pour ajouter un dessin et j'ai enlevé 6 mailles à la fin de A2. Résultat : c'est beaucoup plus confortable. Merci pour vos modèles en libre accès et merci pour vos vidéos très claires.

country flag Hallie 29.12.2019 - 17:55:

Which 11 stitches do you slip on to a stitch holder for the thumb?

user icon DROPS Design 29.12.2019 kl. 20:27:

Dear Hallie, when you increase for the thumb, you increase at both side of the first (right mitten) or the last stitch (left mitten) of teh round, 5 times. These 10+1 stitch should be placed on a holder / leftover yarn for knitting the thumb later. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

country flag Kirsten 27.12.2019 - 10:49:

The pattern says "when A.2 had been worked one time vertically, insert 1 marker in each side (18 sts btw markers)." Exactly where am I supposed to be inserting the markers? Each side of what?

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 11:20:

Dear Kirsten, you should have markers on each side of the hand, so that the markers mark the sides of the decreases on top of the hand - first marker will be at the beg of the round and 2nd marker after half of the stitches. Happy knitting!

country flag Monique 06.10.2019 - 15:19:

In het patroon wordt er voor de duim gesproken over omslagen aan weerszijden van de gemeerderde steken, in het instructiefilmpje wordt er gemeerderd door de omslagen telkens aan weerszijden van de oorspronkelijk gemarkeerde steek te maken. Wat is juist?

user icon DROPS Design 06.10.2019 kl. 16:27:

Dag Monique,

Je herhaalt het meerderen aan elke kant van de gemeerderde steken, dus zoals in het patroon staat.

country flag Uli Licht 07.01.2019 - 07:46:

Hi, in dieser Anleitung steckt ein Rechenfehler, der mich erst ziemlich verwirrt hat: wenn ich 40 Maschen anschlage und dann noch 4 Maschen AUFnehme, habe ich 44 M und nicht 36, wie angegeben. Und wenn ich danach noch 2x5 M aufnehme, sind es insgesamt 54 M, nicht 46, wie angegeben usw. - oder hätte ich nach den 5 cm Bund 4 M ABnehmen müssen? Erscheint mir aber eher unlogisch. Schönen Abend noch

user icon DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 12:25:

Liebe Frau Licht, diese 4 Maschen sollten abgenommen werden = 36 M bleiben. Die deutsche Anleitung wird korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Valerie 13.09.2018 - 17:49:

Bonjour. Je ne comprends pas les augmentations du pouce avec votre compte de mailles : si l'on part de 40 mailles que l'on augmente 1 maille de chaque côté de la première maille -- donc 2 mailles -- tous les deux rangs et celles-ci répétées 5 fois... cela ne peut pas conduire à un total de 46 mailles ??? Où est l'erreur svp ?

user icon Valerie 13.09.2018 kl. 17:55:

Je retire ma question j'avais zappé les 4 diminutions oops

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