DROPS / 165 / 18

Winter Melody Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern, Nordic pattern and raglan in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no li-065
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
450-500-550-550-600-650 g colour no 9010, light grey
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 5610, brown

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7-7-7-7-8-8 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rounds/rows in pattern seen from RS.

Dec 2 sts in every transition between body and sleeves.
Dec as follows from RS:
Beg 3 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows from WS:
Beg 3 sts before marker and work as follows: P 2 twisted tog, P 2, P 2 tog.

Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 13, 20, 27, 34, 41, 48 and 55 cm
SIZE M: 13, 20, 27, 34, 41, 49 and 57 cm
SIZE L: 13, 20, 27, 35, 43, 51 and 59 cm
SIZE XL: 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53 and 61 cm
SIZE XXL: 13, 20, 27, 34, 41, 48, 55 and 63 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 13, 20, 27, 34, 41, 49, 57 and 65 cm.

Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 221-235-263-277-305-347 sts with light grey on circular needle size 4 mm (incl 5 band sts in each side, always work band in light grey and GARTER ST – see explanation above). Work 1 ridge. Then work as follows from RS: 5 sts in garter st, A.1 over the next 210-224-252-266-294-336 sts, finish with first st in A.1 and 5 sts in garter st. Work A.1 1 time vertically, on last row in A.1 adjust no of sts to 191-201-221-241-271-301. Then work as follows: 5 sts in garter st, A.2 over the next 180-190-210-230-260-290 sts, finish with first st in A.2 and 5 sts in garter st. Work A.2 1 time vertically, on last row dec 10-8-4-0-6-12 sts evenly = 181-193-217-241-265-289 sts. Then work as follows: 5 sts in garter st, A.3 over the next 168-180-204-228-252-276 sts, finish with first 3 sts in A.3 and 5 sts in garter st. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 48-51-57-63-69-75 sts in from each side (back piece = 85-91-103-115-127-139 sts). Continue with A.3 AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm, dec 1 st on each side of every marker (= 4 sts dec), repeat dec every 2 cm 4 more times = 161-173-197-221-245-269 sts. (NOTE: Because of dec A.3 will not fit in the side but make sure that holes fit according to pattern). When piece measures 26 cm, inc 1 st on each side of every marker (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm 4 more times, work the inc sts in A.3 = 181-193-217-241-265-289 sts.
When piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm, cast off for armholes in each side as follows: Work until 4 sts remain before first marker in the side, cast off the next 8 sts, work until 4 sts remain before marker in the other side, cast off the next 8 sts and work the rest of row. There are now 77-83-95-107-119-131 sts on back piece and 44-47-53-59-65-71 sts on each front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-48-48-48-60-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with light grey. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST- see explanation above, then work in stocking st until piece measures 8 cm. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue with A.3. When piece measures 9 cm, inc 2 st under sleeve – work the inc sts in A.3. Inc every 4-3-2½-2-3-2½ cm 9-12-14-16-12-14 more times = 68-74-78-82-86-90 sts. When piece measures approx. 49-49-48-48-47-47 cm (adjust to end at the same row in A.3 as on body), cast off the middle 8 sts under sleeve for armhole = 60-66-70-74-78-82 sts remain on round. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 285-309-341-373-405-437 sts. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body (= 4 markers). Continue with A.3 as before, on next row from RS beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec every other row 22-22-22-23-24-25 more times and then every row 0-3-5-6-7-8 times - AT THE SAME TIME when dec for raglan has been done 2-2-3-3-4-4 times (there are now 269-293-317-349-373-405 sts on row) work next row as follows: (NOTE: Arrow in diagram shows middle of A.4. Count out from the middle when starting to work pattern on front pieces/sleeves and back piece so that the pattern is the same in each side on each part.): 5 sts in garter st, A.4 over the next 34-37-42-48-53-59 sts, dec for raglan as before – always work sts in raglan with light grey, A.4 over the next 50-56-58-62-64-68 sts, dec for raglan, A.4 over the next 67-73-83-95-105-117 sts, dec for raglan, A.4 over the next 50-56-58-62-64-68 sts, dec for raglan, A.4 over the next 34-37-42-48-53-59 sts, finish with 5 sts in garter st. Continue with A.4 and raglan. When pattern has been worked, continue in stocking st with light grey and raglan as before. After all dec for raglan 101-101-117-133-149-165 sts remain on needle. Work 2 ridges over all sts, on first row dec 10-10-16-28-40-52 sts evenly = 91-91-101-105-109-113 sts. Cast off.

Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left band.

Mittens and hat:
See DROPS 165-19 or "Related patterns" in pattern on website.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.10.2016
New yarn amount:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
450-500-550-550-600-650 g colour no 9010, light grey


= K from RS, P from WS with light grey
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 2 sts as if to K tog, K 1, pass the 2 slipped sts over
= K from RS, P from WS with brown

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 165-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (27)

Maartje Van Onselen 31.01.2019 - 15:51:

Bij het telpatroon zie ik twee lege vakjes. Kunt u mijnzeggen welke symbolen daarin horen?

Denise Livingston 30.03.2018 - 19:57:

I do not understand how to knit vertically at the end of certain rows. Can you please help me with this. Thank you, Denise Livingston

DROPS Design 03.04.2018 kl. 07:59:

Dear Mrs Livingstone, when pattern says to repeat A.1 or A.2 one time vertically, just work diagram row ater row over all sts on the needle (except the 5 front band sts on each side). Start reading diagram from the bottom corner on the right side and read from the right towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from RS. You can insert marker to mark each diagram and check pattern in each repeat. Happy knitting!

Birgit Drescher 19.11.2017 - 16:03:

Hej, (Min str) Slå 347 m op Strik 2 p retstrik. Forsæt således – fra retsiden: 5 m retstrik A1 over de næste 336 m afslut med første m i A1. og 5 retstrik. Strik A1 en gang i højden, på sidste p i A1 justeres m antallet til 301 m. Men der er da ikke nogle masker at justerer, de er jo taget ind på første pind i mønster A1, da der ikke er noget omslag til at opveje de masker der bliver taget ind. Er det mig der er helt forkert på den. MVH Birgit

DROPS Design 05.12.2017 kl. 14:54:

Hej Birgit, når du er færdig med A.1 har du taget 2x24 m ind. 347 - 48 m = 299 m. Du justerer nu til 301. God fornøjelse!

Ada 21.05.2017 - 22:23:

Ik heb het vest gebreid van garen drops Belle en effen. Het is prachtig geworden en draagt heerlijk!

Giovanna 18.01.2017 - 18:50:

Ciao volevo sapere se lo sprone può essere eseguito continuato, in tondo perché non amo le parti del raglan visibili. Mi sarebbe piaciuto un disegno non spezzato. Grazie

DROPS Design 18.01.2017 kl. 21:35:

Buonasera Giovanna. Nello sprone ci sono delle diminuzioni per il raglan, che andrebbero a modificare il motivo a jacquard. E’ per questo motivo che il disegno viene spezzato evidenziando le linee del raglan. Buon lavoro!

Ingeborg Heggelien 23.10.2016 - 20:14:

Jeg holder på å strikke denne jakken nå. Er veldig godt fornøyd med hvordan fremgangsmåten er forklart, supert! Og garnfargene er veldig fine. Men det blir for lite garn av den lys grå fargen ser jeg, 1-2 nøster faktisk, det er litt synd :-(

TALLEMANT 23.10.2016 - 15:45:

Die angegebene Menge reicht nicht aus. Es fehlten 2 Knäuel in grau. Es ist ärgerlich, denn ich musste nachbestellen, und habe dadurch zweimal Versand bezahlen müssen.... Sonst ist die Jacke schön, die Wolle auch, lässt sich auch wunderbar stricken. Nur unten rollt sich die Jacke, ich denke, dass mehr Reihen kraus rechts am Anfang richtig wären.

Ann Dorit Kammersgaard 04.04.2016 - 18:26:

Jeg har lige strikket denne cardigan. Desværre måtte jeg købe tre ekstra nøgler af den grå. Strikker jævnt, så det er meget med tre nøgler.

Rosine 13.12.2015 - 13:48:

Le modèle est très joli, mais la quantité indiquée en gris clair est insuffisante : en taille M, il faut 500 gr.

DROPS Design 14.12.2015 kl. 10:24:

Bonjour Rosine, aviez-vous bien le bon échantillon et conservé la tension indiquée de 21 m x 28 rangs jersey pour 10 x 10 cm? Merci.

Veronika Bäckström 09.10.2015 - 08:27:

Hej jag har försökt att börja på det här mönstret 6ggr och varje gång när jag kommer till tredje raden i A1 fattas det maskor. Så jag analyserade det hela och inser att det måste vara omslag i början och slutet av det första mönstervarvet? För att det ska stämma. Man gör ju en minskning i varje spets och om man inte gör omslagen fattas det mååånga maskor. Tänker jag rätt? Med vänlig hälsning Veronika

DROPS Design 09.10.2015 kl. 14:10:

Hej, Det är 14 m på första varvet i A.1, men pga minskningen på första varvet, har du bara 12 m på följande 11 varv (dvs 9 m mellan varje "spets") kom ihåg de 2 omslagen mellan varje spets från varv nr 3. Lycka till!

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