Sweet As Candy by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and multi-coloured pattern in border in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 165-1
DROPS design: Pattern no u-761
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 71, silver pink
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour no 69, light grey green
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 39, dark old rose
colour no 40, light old pink
colour no 52, dark mustard
colour no 65, denim blue
colour no 68, light sky blue
colour no 74, lavender

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rounds in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size). Work entire pattern in stocking st and repeat A.1 up to armhole on both body and sleeves.

To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on round (e.g. 220 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 44 sts) = 5. I.e. in this example K approx. every 4th and 5th st tog.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Beg 4 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
Beg 2 sts before marker and work as follows: 1 YO, K 4, 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern on yoke, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 220-240-260-284-320-348 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with silver pink. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 44-48-52-56-64-68 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 176-192-208-228-256-280 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 8 cm, insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 88-96-104-114-128-140 sts (= in the sides). Then dec 1 st on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3-3-3-3-4½-4½ cm 4-4-4-4-3-3 times in total in each side = 160-176-192-212-244-268 sts - NOTE: Adjust to dec on a round with silver pink.
When piece measures 22-22-23-23-23-23 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3½-3½-4-4-6-6 cm a total of 4-4-4-4-3-3 times = 176-192-208-228-256-280 sts.
When piece measures approx. 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm - adjust so that 1 or 2 rounds with silver pink after 1 round with dots have been worked - work next round as follows: Cast off 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts for armhole, work 80-88-96-104-118-130 sts (= front piece), cast off 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work 80-88-96-104-118-130 sts (= back piece) and cast off the remaining 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 60-60-64-64-68-68 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with silver pink. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-14-12-14-14 sts evenly = 48-48-50-52-54-54 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. When piece measures 8-8-7-8-8-10 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 3½-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm 11-13-13-14-14-16 times in total = 70-74-76-80-82-86 sts. Work until sleeve measures 46-46-45-45-44-44 cm - adjust to work the same no of rounds with silver pink as on body (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). K 1 round while casting off the middle 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts mid under sleeve = 62-66-68-70-72-76 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 4 mm as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 284-308-328-348-380-412 sts on needle. K 1 round with silver pink while dec 8-8-10-12-14-16 sts evenly = 276-300-318-336-366-396 sts on needle - READ KNITTING TIP. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size and beg on round marked with arrow in diagram for correct size). Continue pattern like this.
AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow 1 in diagram dec 36-40-42-48-50-56 sts evenly - remember DECREASE TIP-1 = 240-260-276-288-316-340 sts on needle. Continue pattern.
On round marked with arrow 2 in diagram dec 40-40-44-48-52-56 sts evenly = 200-220-232-240-264-284 sts on needle.
On round marked with arrow 3 in diagram dec 40-44-44-52-52-60 sts evenly = 160-176-188-188-212-224 sts on needle.
On round marked with arrow 4 in diagram dec 48-60-60-60-64-68 sts evenly = 112-116-128-128-148-156 sts on needle.
When A.2 has been worked, piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm up to shoulder.

For better shape work an elevation in the back of neck with silver pink as follows: Insert 1 marker mid back. K 12-12-14-14-15-15 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 24-24-28-28-30-30 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 36-36-40-40-44-44 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 48-48-52-52-58-58 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 60-60-64-64-72-72 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 72-72-76-76-86-86 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 84-84-88-88-100-100 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 96-96-100-100-114-114 sts back. Turn and K until mid back.

Switch to a short circular needle size 3 mm and K 1 round while dec 28-32-32-32-44-52 sts evenly = 84-84-96-96-104-104 sts on needle. Then work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm. Then LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P.
Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm up to shoulder.

Sew the openings under the sleeves.


symbols = silver pink
symbols = light grey green
symbols = dark mustard
symbols = light old pink
symbols = dark old rose
symbols = denim blue
symbols = lavender
symbols = light sky blue

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 165-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Laure wrote:

Bonjour, En taille M, on termine le dos/devant avec 192 m. Je ne comprends pas comment on arrive à 308 m après ajout des 2 manches à 66m chacune (192+66+66=324). Ai-je omis qqch ou bien y a-t-il une erreur de calcul ? Merci

31.03.2022 - 18:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laure, on doit rabattre 8 mailles de chaque côté pour les emmanchures = il reste 88 mailles pour le dos/le devant et 66 mailles pour les manches soit (88+66)*2=308 mailles. Bon tricot!

01.04.2022 kl. 07:48

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hello, I’m confused about the instruction for increasing on the sleeve .What does inc 2 sets mid under sleeve mean. Many thanks

11.06.2020 - 10:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, you will increase at the end of the round + at the beg of the round as under INCREASE TIP, ie work until 2 sts remain before end of the round, make a yarn over (= increase), knit the next 4 sts (= the marker for beg of round is in the middle of these 4 sts), make a yarn over. On next round, work yarn overs in back of loop = twisted to avoid holes. Happy knitting!

11.06.2020 kl. 13:27

country flag Pernille Wessel Witte wrote:

Er denne model stor eller lille i størrelsen, smal eller bred? Jeg kan ikke beslutte mig hvilken størrelse jeg skal strikke,vil normalt strikke en xl da jeg hader små sweatre, men kan ikke rigtig ud fra opskriften finde ud af hvor stor størrelserne er :) og har aldrig strikket i karisma før ;)

31.03.2019 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pernille. Se her hvordan du vælger størrelser: Således læser du måleskitsen

05.04.2019 kl. 14:30

country flag Tone wrote:

Hei. Holder på med denne genseren. Har satt på ermer og bol og skal begynne på mønsteret. Hvor begynner jeg mønsteret? ved ermene eller midt på. Hva blir foran og bak?

13.10.2018 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tone. Begynn i overgangen mellom bol og ermet, på bakstykket. Det pleier som regel å bli litt ugjevnt akkurat i starten/slutten av overgangen, så det er minst synlig om dette blir bak på dene ene skulderen. Siden genseren strikkes helt likt frem til du strikker forhøyning kan du velge hvilken siden du vil ha som forstykke/bakstykke - strikk derfor forhøyningen på samme side som starten/slutten av omgangen = baksiden. God fornøyelse.

22.10.2018 kl. 11:50

country flag Victoria wrote:

Hallo, welche Stelle ist gemeint bei den Ärmeln mit "an der unteren Ärmelmitte"?

31.01.2018 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Victoria, "untere Ärmelmitte" ist zwischen Ende der Runde und Anfang der Runde - wo Sie eine Markierung eingesetzt haben, dann wie unter ZUNAHMETIPP (gilt für die Seiten des Rumpteils und die untere Ärmelmitte) zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.01.2018 kl. 15:49

country flag Sophia wrote:

Vielen Dank für ihre rasche Antwort. Leider verstehe ich nicht ganz, was sie mit "dann sollen Sie die Abnahmen bei der Passe sicher anpassen." genau meinen. Tatsächlich komme ich schon bei 26 bis 27 Reihen auf 10 cm.

07.10.2017 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sophia, wenn Ihre Maschenprobe in der Höhe stimmt, ist also alles in Ordnung. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.10.2017 kl. 09:59

country flag Sophia wrote:

Hallo, ich habe jetzt gerade das Rumpfteil fertig gestrickt, das heißt dieses misst jetzt ganz knapp über 37 cm. Allerdings habe ich in dieser Länge nur 12 farbige Streifen, im Bild sind es 14. Bei mir ist der letzte farbige Streifen ein hellrosa/dunkelrosa Streifen. Außerdem kommen mir die 37 cm sehr kurz vor, habe ich etwas falsch gemacht oder kann ich einfach beruhigt weiterstricken? Vielen Dank!

06.10.2017 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sophia, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe in der Höhe? dh Sie sollen 28 Rd = 10 cm haben. Sollte die Maschenprobe nicht in der Höhe stimmen, dann sollen Sie die Abnahmen bei der Passe sicher anpassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.10.2017 kl. 13:35

country flag Tinsen Taf wrote:

Hallo, in der Anleitung steht man soll bei beige zu- bzw. abnehmen. im Material sind aber keine Mengenangaben zu beige. ist damit silberrosa gemeint?

02.01.2017 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Taf, stimmt, diese Reihe im Hellbeige beschrieben sollen mit Silberrosa gestrickt. Korrektur wird bald gemacht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.01.2017 kl. 09:21

country flag Emma wrote:

Hi! I have a couple of quick questions before I start. - Should I drop the colour each time on the main body or carry it up the side? I don't want to run out of wool. - What does "adjust to dec on a round with light beige mean? Do you have any advice for decreasing and increasing with the colours or do I do the dec/inc on a light beige row? Thank you!

18.09.2016 - 10:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, You can carry the yarn (see here) or cut it when stripes are high. Rather work the dec row when working with light beige, ie work 1 more row or 1 row less if necessary adjusting to work the dec row with that colour. Happy knitting!

19.09.2016 kl. 09:30

country flag RoSi wrote:

Guten Tag, ich stricke gerade diesen tollen Pulli. Das ist das erste Mal, dass ich einen Pulli mit Rundpasse stricke. Wo beginne ich denn mit dem Steicken nachdem ich die Maschen von den Ärmeln mit auf die Runde adeligen gelegt habe? Hinterlegte Mitte, am Ärmel in der Mitte? Leider finde ich die Information nicht in der Anleitung. Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe 😊

14.07.2016 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rosi, Sie können die Runde hinten vor dem linken Ärmel beginnen. Meistens wird bei Rundpassenpullis an dieser Stelle begonnen. Alternativ können Sie die hintere Mitte als Rundenanfang wählen.

15.07.2016 kl. 14:48

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