DROPS / 164 / 40

Autumn Forest Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with garter st and shawl collar in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ai-015
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour no 12, moss green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - for garter st.
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 536: 4 pieces in all sizes

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

SHORT ROWS IN BAND:
Work short rows over sts in band to avoid it contracting vertically. Work like this every 10th row – from RS: Work 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts (= right band), turn and work back. Work 1 row over all sts as before. Turn and work 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts (= left band), turn and work back. Turn and work 1 row over all sts as before.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 2 buttonholes = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO, and K tog third and fourth last band st and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 31 and 41 cm
SIZE M: 31 and 41 cm
SIZE L: 32 and 42 cm
SIZE XL: 32 and 42 cm
SIZE XXL: 33 and 43 cm
SIZE XXXL: 33 and 43 cm
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 162-178-198-214-238-254 sts (incl 16-16-18-18-20-20 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work as follows from RS: 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts in garter st (= band), stocking st until 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts and finish with 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts in garter st (= band). Continue in stocking st and garter st AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS IN BAND – see explanation above. Remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work in garter st over all sts until finished measurements. When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm, work as follows: Work 41-45-51-55-61-65 sts, cast off the next 6 sts, work 68-76-84-92-104-112 sts, cast off the next 6 sts and work the last 41-45-51-55-61-65 sts. Now finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 68-76-84-92-104-112 sts. Now cast off for armholes in each side on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1-1-2-3-5-6 times and 1 st 0-3-4-5-6-7 times = 64-66-68-70-72-74 sts. Continue in garter st. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm, cast off the middle 18-18-18-18-22-22 sts for neck = 23-24-25-26-25-26 sts remain on each shoulder. Finish each part separately. Continue in garter st until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 41-45-51-55-61-65 sts. Continue in garter st and cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 39-40-43-44-45-46 sts. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, cast off the first 23-24-25-26-25-26 sts from WS for shoulder = 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts remain on needle. Work the rest of row. Then work short rows over the 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts as follows - beg from RS: * Work 2 rows back and forth over the first 8-8-9-9-10-10 sts, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until neck edge measures 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm at the shortest. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed. Cast off for shoulder from RS and beg short rows from WS.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-40-44-44-48-48 sts on double pointed needle size 4.5 mm with Air. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work in stocking st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker, repeat inc every 3½-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm 9-11-11-14-14-16 more times = 60-64-68-74-78-82 sts. When piece measures 46-46-45-45-42-42 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve and work back and forth until finished measurements. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3-3-3-3-4-4 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-5-6 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 53-54-54-55-55-56 cm. Cast off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows before loosely casting off all sts. Knit another sleeve.

POCKETS:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 20 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Work 1 ridge, then work in stocking st with 2 sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 13 cm, work 2 ridges over all sts. Cast off. Knit another pocket.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Fasten pockets, approx. in the middle of stocking st on front piece and 5 cm from bottom edge (see picture).

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Helichryse 06.12.2019 - 19:12:

Dommage , je ne sais pas tricoter avec une aiguille circulaire .....\r\nPourquoi tous vos modèles sont ils réalisés ainsi ?

Pat Miller 04.08.2019 - 20:16:

Hello. How do I print the photo of the jacket for pattern Pattern no ai-015? I can print the rest of the pattern, but not the photo (which would be very helpful when I'm not near a pc). Thank you, Pat

DROPS Design 04.08.2019 kl. 21:38:

Hello Pat. You can print the photo by choosing the button Photo, just above the “Pattern instructions” line. Happy knitting!

Ille Wiklund 01.03.2019 - 10:46:

Tänkte sticka denna i Alaska eller Nepal. Hur mycket garn behöver jag då?

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 11:42:

Hei Ille. Det kommer an på hvilken størrelse du skal strikke. Om du fyller inn "Air", og garnmengden i din størrelse i garnkalkulator her vil du få opp alle alternativer med ny garnmengde (Alaska og Nepal vil begge komme opp). God fornøyelse

Barbara 07.01.2019 - 23:27:

Dzien dobry, chcialam spytac o zamykanie oczek w rekawie. Kiedy piszecie" Nastepnie zamknac 2 o. z kazdej strony,az dlugosc rekawa osiagnie 53-54-54-55-56cm. Zamknac 3 o.na poczatku 2 nast. rzedow(...)" Czy mam rozumiec, ze powtarzam zamkniecie 2 o z kazdej strony, w kazdym rzedzie, az do 54 cm dlugosci rekawa? Czy jest to jednorazowe zamkniecie 2 oczek z kazdzej strony rzedu? Dziekuje za odpowiedz. Pozdrawiam

DROPS Design 08.01.2019 kl. 17:54:

Witaj Barbaro! Powtarzasz zamykanie 2. o z każdej strony (kilka razy), w każdym rzędzie, aż do 54 cm długości rękawa. Lekko zmodyfikujemy to w opisie, aby było bardziej czytelne. Pozdrawiamy!

Anke 21.10.2018 - 09:29:

Ich verstehe nicht ganz, wie der Kragen entsteht. Passiert das automatisch wenn ich die kurzen Reihen stricke? Ich muss keine Machen aufnehmen?

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 09:06:

Liebe Anke, bei den Schalkragen werden keine neuen Maschen anschlagen: nachdem Sie die Maschen für den Schulter abgekettet haben, sind es 16-20 M (siehe Größe), über diese 16-20 M stricken Sie verkürzten Reihen (mit einer Hinreihe angangen): 2 Reihen über 8-10 M, 2 Reihen über alle Maschen bis der Kragen 7-9 cm an der kürzsten Seite mißt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Judith Williams 07.12.2016 - 19:41:

When knitting the main part of the garment in stocking stitch and the front bands in garter stitch, the instructions say to work short rows in the bands every 10th row. Does this continue with this when you change to working all stitches in garter stitch?

DROPS Design 08.12.2016 kl. 08:42:

Dear Mrs Williams, the short rows have to be worked only when you are working in stocking st at the same time to compensate height difference between stocking st and garter st. When working in garter st, short rows are not necessary. Happy knitting!

Michele 03.10.2016 - 15:10:

Where are the instructions for the collar. Instructions for the back don't tell how to finish it and make the collar or are the front pieces of the collar for the back too? Thank you.

DROPS Design 03.10.2016 kl. 15:53:

Dear Michelle, the shawl collar is worked at the end of front pieces (when working short rows), you will then sew shawl collar first tog (from left and right front pieces) then sew the collar along neckline on back piece. Happy knitting!

Susanna 16.05.2016 - 10:00:

Hur blir den här, stickad i bomull t ex Paris?

DROPS Design 17.05.2016 kl. 11:55:

Hej Susanna. Jeg tror den vil blive meget tung / haengende. For denne jakke i Paris i f.eks. den mindste str skal du bruge 800 gr og 1200 gr for den störste.

Karin Robberd 18.02.2016 - 20:57:

Ik snap de mouwkop niet. Ik brei maat L. Er staat: kant 3 × 2 steken af, dan 3 × 1. En dan staat er Kant dan 2 steken af aan elke kant tot het werk 54 cm meet. Moet dat dan in 1× of in elke naald of in elke tweede naald? Ik vermoed het laatste maar dat staat er niet.

DROPS Design 24.02.2016 kl. 17:01:

Hoi Karin. Je kant 2 st af aan elke kant van het werk (dus aan het begin van elke naald) tot het werk 54 cm meet.

Ria De Waard 29.09.2015 - 07:43:

Als de middelste steken afgehecht zijn van de mouwen hoe lang moet je breien voor de kopminderingen gedaan worden?

DROPS Design 30.09.2015 kl. 16:30:

Hoi Ria. Je begint meteen met het afkanten voor de mouwkop.

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