DROPS / 164 / 29

Hold Me Close by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with rib and shawl collar in ”Polaris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no po-079
Yarn group F or E + E
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio
1300-1400-1600-1700-1900-2100 g colour no 04, medium grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 15 mm - or size needed to get 7 sts x 8 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 12 mm – for sleeve edges
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 540: 2-2-2-3-3-3 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.10 £ /100g
DROPS Polaris uni colour DROPS Polaris uni colour 4.10 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Polaris mix DROPS Polaris mix 4.70 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagram A.1 (= 15-15-15-19-19-19 sts). The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Because of the weight of the yarn the garment will be approx. 5-10 cm longer on body and approx. 10 cm longer on each sleeve compared to measurements on chart. All measurements in pattern are done flat. If you do not want a garment longer than measurements in chart all length measurements can be done when holding the piece up (sleeve length will still be approx. 10 cm longer on each sleeve).

When switching ball with Polaris, split the old strand in two on the last 15 cm – cut off one part, do the same on the new strand. Place the first and last 15 cm on top of each other so that the yarn is the normal thickness and continue to work – this is done to make the strand switch invisible in the yarn.

Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front in - READ MEASURING TIP AND TIP FOR CHANGING YARN.
Cast on 83-87-95-107-115-123 sts (incl 2 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 15 mm with Polaris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work next row as follows from RS: 2 band sts in garter st, * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total, 10-11-13-13-15-17 sts in stocking st, insert 1 marker (= side), 10-11-13-13-15-17 sts in stocking st, A.1 (= 15-15-15-19-19-19 sts), 10-11-13-13-15-17 sts in stocking st, insert 1 marker (= side), 10-11-13-13-15-17 sts in stocking st, * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total and finish with 2 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When piece measures 18 cm in all sizes – remember MEASURING TIP, dec 4-4-4-6-6-6 sts (1-1-1-2-2-2 sts in each of the front pieces and 2-2-2-2-2-2 sts in the back) by P 2 tog in each P section (3 P becomes 2 P) = 79-83-91-101-109-117 sts. When piece measures 36 cm in all sizes, dec the remaining 3 P to 2 P = 73-77-85-94-102-110 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm, divide at the markers in each side and finish front and back piece separately.

= 21-22-24-27-29-31 sts. Then work in garter st over the outermost 11-11-11-14-14-14 sts towards mid front (instead of rib), work the remaining sts in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME cast on 12-12-11-10-8-7 new sts for sleeves at the end of first row towards the side = 33-34-35-37-37-38 sts. Continue in stocking st and in garter st towards mid front until piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, adjust so that next row is from WS and remember MEASURING TIP. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS over all sts. On next row (= WS), LOOSELY cast off the first 23-24-25-24-24-25 sts on shoulder = 10-10-10-13-13-13 sts on needle for shawl collar.
Beg from RS and work in garter st and with short rows back and forth over the 10-10-10-13-13-13 shawl collar sts as follows: * 1 ridge over all sts, 1 ridge only over the outermost 7-7-7-10-10-10 sts towards mid front *, repeat from *-* until shawl collar measures approx. 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm from shoulder - measured on the most narrow part (it will then measure approx. 16-16-16-20-20-20 cm at the widest). Slip sts on a stitch holder.

= 21-22-24-27-29-31 sts. Work as right front piece but reversed i.e. when casting off for shoulder this is done on row RS after 1 row K from WS. Beg to work shawl collar from WS.

= 31-33-37-40-44-48 sts. Continue back and forth in stocking st and with 11-11-11-14-14-14 sts rib mid back and AT THE SAME TIME cast on 12-12-11-10-8-7 new sts for sleeves at the end of the first 2 rows = 55-57-59-60-60-62 sts on needle. Work until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, adjust so that next row is worked from WS. Now K 1 row from WS and cast off the middle 9-9-9-12-12-12 sts for neck = 23-24-25-24-24-25 sts remain on each shoulder, finish each shoulder separately. Turn and K 1 row from RS, then LOOSELY cast off. Repeat in the other side, piece measures approx. 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm up to shoulder.

Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener sts inside cast-off edge. Sew shawl collar tog mid back with grafting/kitchener sts and sew shawl collar to neckline in the back of neck - sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew 2-2-2-3-3-3 buttons on to left front piece. Place top button approx. 2 cm below where ridges beg on band and fasten in 11th-11th-11th-15th-15th-15th st from mid front. Then place the next 1-1-1-2-2-2 buttons below this approx. 10 cm between each button. Button through a st on right front piece.

Pick up 30-30-33-33-36-36 sts inside 1 edge st at the bottom around one sleeve on double pointed needles size 12 mm with Polaris. Work rib in the round (= K 1/P 2). When rib measures 22 cm in all sizes (try the jacket on and work to desired length), cast off with K over K and P over P.
Repeat at the bottom around the other sleeve.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

BÉRAIL Martine 18.10.2020 - 17:38:

Bonjour, quand je commence à tricoter mon premier rang de 7 mailles pour le col châle qu'est-ce que je fait des 3 mailles restantes ? Et faut-il bien continuer avec 7 mailles jusqu'au bout. Merci pour votre réponse.

DROPS Design 19.10.2020 kl. 09:19:

Bonjour Mme Bérail, vous tricotez des rangs raccourcis pour le col, autrement dit, vous n'allez tricoter qu'une partie de ces mailles = vous tricotez 7 mailles, laissez les 3 dernières m sur l'aiguille gauche, tournez et tricotez les 7 m. Tournez et tricotez maintenant les 10 m = toutes les mailles, tournez et tricotez ces 10 mailles à nouveau. Répétez ces 4 rangs - vous trouverez ici comment tricoter des rangs raccourcis. Bon tricot!

Kati 17.02.2020 - 03:58:

Where do you actually start the left front? On the RS or on the WS? I don't really understand what you mean by reversed - correct reversed would mean to start it from the RS and mirror the right front. If you start it on the WS as the front side, you have 1 row less, and you cannot add the stitches for the sleeve on the first row. On the back also - since you cannot cast on for both sleeves on the same row, even with grafting it will look weird on the shoulders because of the garter rows.

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 10:29:

Dear Kati, reversed means that everything that was done on the left side will be worked now on the right side and everything that was done on the right side will be worked now on the left side. If you divided piece after a RS row, then first row on left front piece will be worked from WS (= as on right front piece and as on back piece). Happy knitting!

Marie-France 28.07.2019 - 09:44:

Bonjour, au niveau des rangs raccourcis le coté le plus long c'est la ou il y a les 7 mailles ? Merci.

DROPS Design 28.07.2019 kl. 10:22:

Bonjour Marie-France! Oui, cette piece est plus longue du cote du milieu devant/de l'encoulure. Bon tricot!

Mindy 17.01.2019 - 22:34:

I can’t get started with this because of the instructions “2 band stitches in garter stitch”. What does that mean?

DROPS Design 18.01.2019 kl. 09:10:

Dear Mindy, this means to work these 2 stitches K from RS and K from WS. The video below is showing how to work 1 edge st in garter stitch, remember to work 2 sts in garter st as in pattern. Happy knitting!

Ann-May Törnqvist 27.11.2018 - 21:07:

Kan jag sticka tröjan Hold me close i Drops Alpaca?

DROPS Design 29.11.2018 kl. 14:19:

Hei Ann-May. Denne genseren er strikket i vårt tykkeste garn (fra garngruppe F), mens Alpaca er et av våre tynneste garn (fra garngruppe A). Du kan selvfølgelig strikke den med 8 tråder Alpaca, men jeg vil anbefale deg å bruke et tykkere garn, eller velge en annen oppskrift om du helst vil strikke i Alpaca. Du kan for eksempel strikke med 4 tråder Air (som er 65% alpaca) eller 2 tråder Andes (som er en blanding av alpaca og ull). God fornøyelse

Stefania 06.11.2018 - 07:57:

Buongiorno, ma se io volessi usare dei ferri dritti che misura devo prendere? Grazie

DROPS Design 06.11.2018 kl. 08:37:

Buongiorno Stefania. Deve usare la misura che le consente di ottenere il campione indicato nelle spiegazioni. Buon lavoro!

Lelletta 13.11.2017 - 23:01:

Buonasera! Chiedo scusa, ma il numero dei ferri è 15????? Tale misura credo corrisponda al diametro in mm degli stessi e ciò mi sembra improbabile... tra l'altro, almeno qui in Italia, penso che non si trovino proprio! Attendo un Vostro riscontro e Vi saluto con cordialità!

DROPS Design 14.11.2017 kl. 08:09:

Buongiorno Lelletta, il numero dei ferri corrisponde al diametro, ma questo vale per tutti i numeri. Può trovare i ferri da 15 mm presso i nostri rivenditori DROPS. Buon lavoro

Mimi 15.01.2017 - 05:06:

I am at the shawl collar now. When pattern says " 1 ridge over all sts, 1 ridge only over the outermost 10 sts toward mid front", does it mean you bind off on 3 sts, leaving only 10 on the needles to work them? and then work the 10 sts for 10 cm? OR is it 1 ridge over all sts and then slip 3 sts and working only 10 sts on two rows, going back to working all 13 sts again? I am doing the XL size. Thanks!

DROPS Design 16.01.2017 kl. 09:43:

Dear Mimi, you are here working short rows starting from RS: *work 2 rows over all sts, 2 rows over the first 10 sts* (= there will be 4 rows over the first sts towards mid front and only 2 rows towards shoulder). Repeat these 4 rows until the shorter side measures approx. 10 cm (from shoulder). Happy knitting!

Marian 11.01.2017 - 21:22:

Ik wil dit vest heel graag gaan maken alleen met dunnere wol en op naalden nr 5. Kan iemand mij vertellen hoeveel steken ik dan moet opzetten voor maat L?

DROPS Design 12.01.2017 kl. 10:48:

Hoi Marian. Ik kan je helaas niet helpen met individuele aanpassingen op de gratis patronen.

Hosten Natacha 14.02.2016 - 13:40:

Hoeveel bollen drops polaris heb ik nodig voor deze vest? Dank u

DROPS Design 15.02.2016 kl. 14:15:

Hoi Natacha: Maat: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL Materiaal: DROPS POLARIS van Garnstudio 1300-1400-1600-1700-1900-2100 gr. kleur nr. 04, grijs. 1 bol Polaris is 100 gr. Zie ook het kleurenoverzicht hier

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