DROPS / 166 / 5

October Dream by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with Norwegian pattern, round yoke and high collar in "Nepal". Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-181
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 0500, light grey
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 0501, grey
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 0100, off white
colour no 2923, goldenrod
colour no 8038, light olive
colour no 8908, aqua blue
colour no 8911, sea blue
colour no 8910, raspberry rose

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.55 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 1.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DECREASE TIP (applies to body):
Dec on each side of marker in each side as follows: Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Inc on each side of marker as follows:
Beg 2 sts before marker and make 1 YO, K 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve):
Inc on each side of marker as follows:
Beg 1 sts before marker and make 1 YO, K 2 sts (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Before round yoke beg dec for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body. Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 – choose diagram for correct size. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 184-200-220-244-264-292 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with light grey. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 8 cm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 36-40-44-48-52-60 sts evenly = 148-160-176-196-212-232 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 74-80-88-98-106-116 sts (= the sides). Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 10 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm a total of 4-4-4-5-5-5 times = 132-144-160-176-192-212 sts. When piece measures 26 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm a total of 3 times in all sizes = 144-156-172-188-204-224 sts. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm, work next round as follows: Cast off 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts for armhole, work 66-72-78-86-92-102 sts (= front piece), cast off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts for armhole, work 66-72-78-86-92-102 sts (= back piece) and cast off the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 52-52-52-56-56-56 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with light grey. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 8 cm. K 1 round while dec 12 sts evenly in all sizes = 40-40-40-44-44-44 sts. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work in stocking st. When piece measures 10-11-13-13-10-12 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP 2. Repeat inc every 3½-3-2½-2½-2½-2 cm 10-11-12-12-13-15 times in total = 60-62-64-68-70-74 cm. When piece measures 45-45-44-44-44-43 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off the middle 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts mid under sleeve = 54-56-56-60-60-64 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 240-256-268-292-304-332 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Work in stocking st in the round with light grey AT THE SAME TIME dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above, in every transition between body and sleeves. Repeat dec for raglan every other round 1-2-3-4-2-3 times in total = 232-240-244-260-288-308 sts. K 1 round with light grey while dec 8-8-4-4-8-8 sts evenly = 224-232-240-256-280-300 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 (choose diagram for correct size) - READ KNITTING TIP.
On round marked with arrow 1 in diagram dec 14-16-18-22-28-30 sts evenly = 210-216-222-234-252-270 sts.
On round marked with arrow 2 in diagram dec 30-36-30-42-48-54 sts evenly = 180-180-192-192-204-216 sts.
On round marked with arrow 3 in diagram dec 24-24-30-30-36-36 sts evenly = 156-156-162-162-168-180 sts.
On round marked with arrow 4 in diagram dec 36-36-36-36-38-42 sts evenly = 120-120-126-126-130-138 sts.
On round marked with arrow 5 in diagram dec 34-34-36-36-36-40 sts evenly = 86-86-90-90-94-98 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm up to shoulder.

ELEVATION AT THE BACK:
Insert 1 marker mid front. Beg mid back and work an elevation at the back on circular needle size 5 mm with grey as follows: K until 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts remain before marker at the front, turn and P until 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until 20-20-22-22-24-26 sts remain before marker at the front, turn and P until 20-20-22-22-24-26 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until 30-30-32-32-34-36 sts remain before marker, turn and P until 30-30-32-32-34-36 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until mid back.

NECK:
Switch to a short circular needle size 4 mm and K 1 round with grey while inc 10 sts evenly in all sizes = 96-96-100-100-104-108 sts. Then work rib in the round = K 2/P 2. When neck measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm, inc every other 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 108-108-112-112-117-121 sts. When neck measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm, inc the remaining 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 120-120-125-125-130-135 sts. When neck measures 12-12-12-14-14-14 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

= light grey
= grey
= off white
= aqua blue
= sea blue
= raspberry rose
= goldenrod
= light olive
= dec round



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 166-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Olga Mikulasova 31.10.2019 - 21:14:

Nejde vytisknout navod

DROPS Design 03.11.2019 kl. 18:42:

Dorý den, paní Mikulasova, děkujeme za zprávu - prověřili jsme tisk na několika úrovních, ale z naší strany funguje vše, jak má. Zkuste prosím znovu, popřípadě zkontrolujte nastavení své tiskárny a prohlížeče.

Natascha 07.07.2019 - 20:58:

Liebes Drops Team, wenn die Ärmel zum Rumpfteil kommen - wo ist dann der Rundenbeginn? Mitte Rücken? Danke. LG, Natascha

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 10:30:

Liebe Natascha, Rundbeginn kann entweder vor oder nach dem Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gunilla Josefsson 06.02.2019 - 11:51:

Hej, Jag har länge funderat på om måttangivelserna som anges i mönstret är storleken på färdig tröja eller om det är storleken på en naken kropp som tröjan ska passa till

DROPS Design 06.02.2019 kl. 17:31:

Dessa mått gäller alltid det färdiga plagget.

DEYANIRA MEDINA 18.01.2019 - 05:27:

Hola. Señala para la elevación que a partir del centro espalda debo tejer hasta antes de 10 puntos del centro frente, virar y tejer hasta 10 puntos antes del centro espalda, y así sucesivamente, esto significa que el aumento se llevará a cabo entre los dos marcadores en un lado del sueter, pero no en la espalda, No entiendo. Espero logren ayudarme. Gracias

Tarah Matson 17.01.2019 - 01:40:

I just got my yarn and needles delivered and am so pleased and excited! the colours are even more beautiful in person, and the feel of the yarn is amazing! I can't wait to get started. Thank you for making such lovely yarn and patterns.

Margitta 09.01.2019 - 07:47:

Liebes Drops Team,in der Anleitung steht 40 cm dann Ärmel abnahme.In der Skizze ist das gesamtmaß bis zur Ärmelabnahme mit 60 cm angegeben.Was ist richtig ?

DROPS Design 09.01.2019 kl. 08:49:

Liebe Margitta, die Ärmel werden beim 40 cm (Rumpfteil) anfangen + 20 cm für die Passe = 60 cm gesamte Länge für den Pullover. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Hanne 19.07.2018 - 13:31:

Regner med at det er en feil at det står cm her, det skal være masker helt sist i setningen (erme): Gjenta økningen på hver 3½.-3.-2½.-2½.-2½.-2.cm totalt 10-11-12-12-13-15 ganger = 60-62-64-68-70-74 cm.

DROPS Design 20.07.2018 kl. 08:02:

Hei Hanne, Ja det har du rett i. Det burde stå masker. God fornøyelse!

Marte-Lise Bjørnevik 02.03.2018 - 13:13:

Raglan kvar omgang eller anna kvar ? Står begge deler...

DROPS Design 06.03.2018 kl. 16:22:

Hej, Marte-Lise, ... Gjenta fellingen til raglan på hver 2.omg totalt 1-2-3-4-2-3 ganger = 232-240-244-260-288-308 m. God fornøjelse!

Marianne 09.01.2018 - 07:21:

Trop beau ce pull! Je vais le faire !

Mateus De Marcos Nadia 23.03.2017 - 20:59:

Bonjour est ce que la taille m correspond a un 38 environ sinon Apres les cotes il faut repartir 40 diminutions sur Les 200 mailles est ce que je tricote les 2 premières mailles puis un e diminution puis 3 mailles puis une diminution puis 3 mailles ou bien les 2 premiers mailles puis une diminution puis 4 mailles puis une diminution puis 4 mailles puis une diminution ainsi de suite merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 24.03.2017 kl. 08:55:

Bonjour Mme De Marcos, vous trouverez en bas de page un schéma avec toutes les mesures pour chaque taille, prises à plat, d'un côté à l'autre. Comparez ces mesures avec celle d'un vêtement similaire dont vous aimez la forme pour trouver la taille à suivre. Plus d'infos sur les tailles ici. Regardez ici comment répartir des diminutions. Bon tricot!

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