DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Winter Triangle

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat, double neck warmer and mittens with textured pattern in “Nepal”.

DROPS 165-38
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-185
Yarn group C or A + A
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HAT:
Size: S/M – M/L – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in 3112, powder pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – for rib.

NECK WARMER:
Size: One-size
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 160 cm, height approx. 27 cm.
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
300 g colour no 3112, powder pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5.5 mm - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – for rib.

MITTENS:
Size: S/M - L
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in 3112, powder pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 19 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm – for rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
HAT:
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed.
Cast on 90-96-102 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Nepal. K 1 round. Work rib K 1/P 1 until piece measures 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work A.1 – see diagram for correct size - 6 times in total in width AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 6 sts evenly = 84-90-96 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 24 sts on needle. On next round K tog all sts 2 by 2 = 12 sts. Piece measures approx. 25-25-27 cm. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last sts, tighten tog and fasten.
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NECK WARMER:
PATTERN:
See diagram A.2.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 300 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. K 1 round. Work rib = K 1/P 1. When piece measures approx. 3 cm, switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work A.2 (= 17 sts) 15 times in total in width AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 45 sts evenly = 255 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 26 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work rib (= K 1/P 1) AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 45 sts evenly = 300 sts. Loosely cast off when rib measures 3 cm (entire neck warmer measures approx. 29 cm).
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MITTENS:
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.3-A.4.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows (beg 3 sts before marker): K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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LEFT MITTEN:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-44 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Nepal and K 1 round. Then work rib (= K 1/P 1). When rib measures 4 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Continue as follows: K 1-2, A.3 (= 17 sts), K the remaining sts AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 4 sts evenly = 36-40 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of first st on round for thumb (= 2 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc on each side of the inc sts on every other round a total of 5 times = 46-50 sts. Now slip the 11 thumb sts on 1 stitch holder. Work in stocking st and A.3 in the round AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st behind thumb on next round = 36-40 sts. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stocking st. After A.3 the mitten measures approx. 22 cm (try on the mitten, approx. 4 cm remains until finished measurements). Work in stocking st until mitten measures 22 cm or desired length. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 18-20 sts. Now dec 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other round 2 more times and then every round 4 times = 8-12 sts remain on needle. On next round K tog all sts 2 by 2 = 4-6 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

THUMB:
Slip the 11 thumb sts back on double pointed needles size 4 mm. In addition pick up 4-5 sts behind thumb = 15-16 sts. Work in stocking st until the thumb itself measures approx. 4½ cm (try on the mitten, approx. ½ cm remains until finished measurements). K 2 rounds AT THE SAME TIME K all sts tog 2 by 2 on both rounds. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on and work as left mitten but work as follows: A.4 (= 17 sts), K 0-1, K 1 (= thumb sts, inc on each side of this st), stocking st over the remaining sts.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi I have intentions of knitting this pattern in the near future. I am new at knitting from a chart so I have questions.The instructions say to start at the bottom right corner,once that is complete where do I go.I am knitting in the round so do I go back to the right side and start over again.on the 2nd row or do I redo the 1st row tillthe round is complete and then go to the second row. Thks so much,any info would help.Carol. when working with dpns how do I read the chart.

10.01.2023 - 17:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Carol, You continue with the first row in the diagram (from right to left repeated) until the round is complete then start on row 2 in the diagram for round 2. Happy knitting!

11.01.2023 - 07:04

country flag Marianna wrote:

Quando iniziò lo schema A1 per il cappello finisco il ferro con 2 rovesci invece che 6 perché???

03.11.2020 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Marianna, ci può indicare esattamente il punto dello schema a cui fa riferimento? Buon lavoro!

04.11.2020 - 19:23

country flag Liette Courchesne wrote:

Bonjour, je ne réussi pas à imprimer les explications. J'ai vérifier tous les paramètres de mon imprimante et je l'ai essayé aussi et tout est ok. Alors si vous pouviez voir de votre côté.Merci

13.03.2018 - 19:12

country flag Elena wrote:

Per il collo non capisco dove sbaglio sono arrivata alla fine del 1°giro, A2 mi termina con la sequenza di 7 dir/rov anzichè coi 3 dir...eppure ho 255 m.... grazie

17.11.2017 - 18:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, quando inizia a lavorare A.2 deve avere 300 maglie, e nel corso del 1° giro di A.2 diminuirà 45 maglie, in modo da avere 255 maglie alla fine del primo giro. Se non abbiamo interpretato nel modo corretto la sua domanda, ci riscriva pure! Buon lavoro!

17.11.2017 - 20:02

country flag Maria wrote:

Ciao, Con i ferri diritti i diagrammi si leggono così? Dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra. Ogni riga corrisponde ad 1 ferro e ogni quadrato ad 1 maglia. A1 S/M io lo leggerei così 1° riga 1: 3 maglie a dritto,1 rovescio,1 dritto,1 rovescio etc fino alla 14° maglia. riga 2 (da destra a sinistra): 2 maglie a dritto,1maglia a rovescio,1 dritto fino alla 14° maglia.Al 36° riga iniziano le diminuzioni. in ogni ferro si lavora il disegno in larghezza per 6 volte. Giusto? grazie

19.01.2017 - 15:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Maria. Quando lavora avanti indietro con i ferri dritti, le righe dispari del diagramma vengono lette da destra verso sinistra, quelle pari da sinistra verso destra. E’ corretto come legge la prima riga, la seconda è: rov, dir, rov, dir fino alle ultime due maglie che vengono lavorate a rov (nei ferri pari: quadrato bianco a rov, quadrato con pallino nero a dir). Il disegno viene lavorato 6 volte in larghezza e le maglie diminuiscono a partire dal 36° ferro. Buon lavoro!

19.01.2017 - 16:14

country flag Sofia wrote:

Hej! Skulle halsvärmaren gå att sticka fram och tillbaka på rundsticka istället, eller blir mönstret galet då? Älskar det geometriska mönstret, men skulle vilja ha en halsduk istället för rundkrage.

04.01.2016 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Det borde inte vara några problem att sticka det fram och tillbaka på rundsticka istället. Lycka till!

05.01.2016 - 08:10

country flag Franca wrote:

Il cappello sì, lo scaldacollo lo preferirei meno largo

02.06.2015 - 17:26

country flag Hilde Dønheim wrote:

Lekkert sett.

29.05.2015 - 00:00