DROPS / 166 / 10

Morning Walk by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with textured pattern and shawl collar in 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Morning Walk / DROPS 166-10 - Knitted DROPS jacket with textured pattern and shawl collar in 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Morning Walk / DROPS 166-10 - Knitted DROPS jacket with textured pattern and shawl collar in 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no co-020
Yarn group E or C + C
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750-850-900 g colour no 02, wheat

Or use:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
650-700-750-800-850-1000 g colour no 02, wheat

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 9 mm - or size needed to get 10 sts x 14 rows in stocking st with 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - for garter st.

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Cloud DROPS Cloud
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

MEASURING TIP:
All measurements must be done when holding the piece up on needle.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc with 1 YO, work YO twisted on next row to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in the pattern A.1.
----------------------------------------------------------

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 57-59-63-69-75-81 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm with 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 1 edge sts in garter st, A.1 (= 2 sts) until 2 sts remain, K 1, 1 edge sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm – READ MEASURING TIP – cast off 5 sts for armholes at beg of the next 2 rows = 47-49-53-59-65-71 sts. Work A.1 as before until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. Now cast off for neck as follows: Work A.1 over the first 19-20-21-24-26-29 sts as before, cast off the next 9-9-11-11-13-13 sts and work A.1 over the last 19-20-21-24-26-29 sts as before. Now finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck, cast off 1 st = 18-19-20-23-25-28 sts remain on shoulder. When piece measures 67-69-71-73-75-77 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 51-53-57-63-69-75 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side and 2 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 8 mm with 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 2 band sts in garter st, A.1 (= 2 sts) until 1 st remains, 1 st in garter st. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm, cast off 5 sts for armhole at beg of row from WS = 46-48-52-58-64-70 sts. When piece measures 67-69-71-73-75-77 cm, adjust so that next row is from WS, work 1 ridge in garter st over the first 18-19-20-23-25-28 sts, A.1 until 2 sts remain on needle and finish with 2 band sts in garter st. Then cast off the first 18-19-20-23-25-28 sts on next row from WS (= shoulder) = 28-29-32-35-39-42 sts remain for shawl collar. On next row from RS, cast on 6-6-7-7-8-8 sts at the end of row = 34-35-39-42-47-50 sts. Work 1 ridge over the new sts, work the remaining sts in A.1, work band in garter st. Then work 2 band sts in garter st towards mid front and the remaining sts in A.1. When piece measures 4 cm from where the new sts were cast on, adjust so that next row is from RS, * K 3 rows, AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 3-3-3-4-4-4 sts evenly * = 37-38-42-46-51-54 sts. Work 2 band sts in garter st towards mid front and A.1 over the remaining sts, until piece measures 9 cm (from where the new sts were cast on), adjust so that next row is from RS, then repeat from *-* = 40-41-45-50-55-58 sts. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed. Cast off for armhole at beg of row from RS. Cast off sts for shoulder at beg of row from RS, and cast on new sts at the end of row from WS.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm with 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Work A.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece. Continue like this. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st inside 2 sts in each side of piece - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 9½-8-8-6-6-4½ cm 4-5-5-6-6-7 more times = 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts. Cast off when piece measures 51-51-50-48-46-44 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders). Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew in sleeves. Sew the sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st.

TIES:
Cut 3 strands of Cloud or 6 strands of Air, approx. 70 cm long, thread them half way through the side of jacket and approx. 15 cm down from armhole (try the jacket on and adjust), make a braid of approx. 22 cm, tie a knot, the remaining yarn becomes a tassel. Do the same mid front approx. 40 cm down (measured from shawl collar).

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 166-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Karrie Jacoby 26.01.2021 - 00:30:

I’ve never had a cardigan where the individual right and left front pieces have the same number of stitches as the back piece. For example, 69 sts for the back and 69 for both from pieces or a total of 138 sts for the front. Is this correct?

user icon DROPS Design 26.01.2021 kl. 09:16:

Dear Mrs Jacoby, this is correct, in 4th size you will have 69 sts for back piece and 63 sts for each front piece, as you can see on the picture (as well as on the measurement chart), front pieces are very wide here. Happy knitting!

country flag Wladi 29.05.2020 - 11:30:

Guten Tag. Dankeschön.

country flag Wladi 28.05.2020 - 19:22:

Guten Abend! Ich verstehe das mit einer Doppelhäkelarbeit nicht wirklich. In welcher Reihe und vor welcher Schleife machst du es? Danke.

user icon DROPS Design 29.05.2020 kl. 07:57:

Liebe Wladi, das erste muss 15 cm unter dem Armausschnitt (linken Seite) eingezogen: die 6 Fäden durch eine Masche ziehen (die sind jetzt doppelt = jetzt haben Sie 12 Fäden) und diese 12 zusammen flechten. Eine ähnliche Flecthe am Vorderteil einziehen, hier wird vom Schalkragen gemessen. Legen Sie die Jacke flach und so können Sie am besten die benötige Höhe für das 2. Bändchen finden. Die Jacke einziehen und prüfen ob die richtige Höhe passt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Johanna 05.04.2020 - 06:53:

Ang. Höger framstycke; När man har maskar av maskor för axeln och skall fortsätta med kragen, skall man då fortsätta sticka varvet på samma sticka utan att klippa av garnet eller skall man avsluta axelpartiet och sedan fortsätta på kragen separat?

user icon DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 11:34:

Hej Johanna, kan du få det til at stemme, så du bare fortsætter over maskerne på kraven, så gør du bare det :)

country flag Venche 05.03.2020 - 20:27:

Er garnmengden virkelig korrekt? Vanlig genser med dobbel tråd air, 550 gram i str xl, her 800 gr ( det samme gjelder garnmengde på winter greeting)

country flag Jolanda Kuiper 08.12.2019 - 19:04:

Ik ben bezig met het achterpand en heb zojuist aan beide kanten 5 steken afgekant voor de mouwen. Tot dit punt zijn de eerste 2 en de laatste 2 steken van een naald in ribbelsteek. Het patroon zegt dat ik vanaf dit punt het patroon A1 moet breien als ervoor. Is dit dan zonder de eerste 2 en de laatste 2 steken van een naald in ribbelsteek?

user icon DROPS Design 12.12.2019 kl. 10:43:

Dag Jolanda,

Na het afkanten voor de mouwkop, brei je aan beide kanten 1 kantsteek in ribbelsteek en verder zet je het patroon A1 voort, dus zodat de juiste steken boven elkaar komen tov de vorige naald.

country flag Els Welte 20.11.2019 - 12:46:

Het achterland heeft wel erg weinig steken, vergeleken bij 2 x voorpand. Volgends klopt dit niet.

user icon DROPS Design 23.11.2019 kl. 16:23:

Dag Els,

Ja, dat klopt, er zit een grote overslag op de voorpanden, waardoor ze bijna even breed zijn als het achterpand.

country flag Zutter Irene 25.10.2019 - 12:51:

Danke für ihre Hilfe

country flag Zutter Irene 24.10.2019 - 18:22:

Ich mache mich schwehr mit dem Kragen !!!!!! .... Wie werden die neuen maschen ich die augenommen habe Gestrickt sind die alle rechts Gestrickt oder muss ich die neuen masche im A1 Muster einfüge n ?? Danke für Ihre Hilffffffe

user icon DROPS Design 25.10.2019 kl. 09:23:

Liebe Frau Zutter, bei den 2 ersten Reihen stricken Sie diese neuen Maschen rechts und die 28-42 übrigen Maschen wie zuvor = 1 Krausrippe über die neuen Maschen, dann stricken Sie alle Maschen im Muster, mit den 2 Blenden-Maschen kraus rechts (= wie zuvor). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Ki 09.10.2019 - 20:38:

Hi, I have a question about knitting the Right Front Piece. After bind off shoulder sts from WS ( shoulder) = 28-29-32-35-39-42 sts remain for shawl collar. On next row from RS, cast on 6-6-7-7-8-8 sts at the end of row = 34-35-39-42-47-50 sts. What should I do with the remeining sts for shawl collar ? keep knitting as A.1 till the end of row or cast on the 6-6-7-7-8-8 sts?¨¨ Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 10.10.2019 kl. 08:33:

Dear Ki, you continue working the 34-50 stitches in A.1 as before, at the same time work the new stitches in garter stitch on first 2 rows (= 1 ridge over the new stitches) and then work them in A.1, so that you will have (from RS): 2 sts in garter st, A.1, 1 edge st in garter stitch until piece measures 4 cm from the new stitches cast on. Happy knitting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 166-10

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.