Precious Piper by DROPS Design

Knitted cardigan in stocking st and garter st with round yoke in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. Size children 1 - 10 years.

  • Precious Piper / DROPS Children 26-12 - Knitted cardigan in stocking st and garter st with round yoke in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. Size children 1 - 10 years.
  • Precious Piper / DROPS Children 26-12 - Knitted cardigan in stocking st and garter st with round yoke in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. Size children 1 - 10 years.
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-001-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: (12/18 months) - 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Size in cm: (80/86) 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
150-150-200-250-250-300 g colour no 08, light pink

Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
300-300-400-500-500-600 g colour no 57, baby pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 33 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm, and 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for edge in garter st.
DROPS BUTTON: ROUND (pink), NO 622: (6) 6-7-7-8-8 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO. On next row K the YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 4, 10, 16, 22, 27 and 32 cm.
SIZE 2 YEARS: 4, 11, 18, 25, 30 and 35 cm.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 4, 10, 16, 22, 28, 34 and 39 cm
SIZE 5/6 YEARS: 4, 11, 18, 25, 32, 38 and 43 cm
SIZE 7/8 YEARS: 5, 11, 17, 23, 29, 35, 41 and 47 cm.
SIZE 9/10 YEARS: 4, 11, 18, 25, 32, 39, 45 and 51 cm.

RAGLAN:
Dec for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body. All dec are done from RS!
Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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JACKET:

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on (111) 119-123-131-139-147 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Air or Paris and work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work in stocking st with 5 sts in garter st in each side (= bands). Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures (20) 22-25-28-31-34 cm, work next row from RS as follows: Work (27) 29-30-32-34-36 sts as before (= right front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, work (45) 49-51-55-59-63 sts as before (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole and work the last (27) 29-30-32-34-36 sts (= left front piece).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on (27) 29-31-31-33-33 sts on double pointed needle size 4 mm with Air or Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work in stocking st. When piece measures (4) 4-6-7-8-10 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 2 cm a total of (7) 9-9-11-12-13 times = (41) 47-49-53-57-59 sts. When piece measures (18) 22-26-30-33-37 cm, cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve = (35) 41-43-47-51-53 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = (169) 189-197-213-229-241 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue in stocking st with 5 band sts in garter st in each side (1st row = P from WS). On next row from RS dec for RAGLAN - see explanation above, in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec on every row from RS (2) 3-3-4-4-5 times in total = (153) 165-173-181-197-201 sts remain on needle. Insert 1 marker – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work in garter st back and forth over all sts for (4) 4-5-5-6-6 cm. On next row, dec (30) 32-38-40-42-42 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = (123) 133-135-141-155-159 sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures (8) 8-9-9-10-10 cm. On next row, dec (36) 38-38-40-46-48 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = (87) 95-97-101-109-111 sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures (11) 11-12-12-13-13 cm. Dec (40) 42-42-44-48-50 sts evenly = (47) 53-55-57-61-61 sts remain on needle.

Continue to work an elevation in the neck with short rows as follows (1st row = from RS): K until (10) 11-12-13-14-14 sts remain on needle, turn and K back until (10) 11-12-13-14-14 sts remain in the other side. Turn and K until (14) 15-16-17-18-18 sts remain on needle, turn and K back until (14) 15-16-17-18-18 sts remain in the other side. Turn and K until (18) 19-20-21-22-22 sts remain on needle, turn and K back until (18) 19-20-21-22-22 sts remain in the other side. Turn piece and K the rest of row, then K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Then cast off with K from RS. Piece measures approx. (33) 36-40-44-48-52 cm up to shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 26-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Simona Šottníková 25.01.2021 - 11:56:

Robím sveter precious children. Teraz mám previesť rukávy k trupu na jednu ihlicu. Ako ďalej hackovat, keď mám vlastne tri diely (dva rukávy a trup) a každý má svoje vlastné klbko? Vopred ďakujem za radu 😳

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2021 kl. 16:47:

Dobrý den, Simono! Nejsnazží způsob, jak díly spojit, je připlést je: budete plést trup a ve chvíli, kdy dojdete k prvnímu průramku, budete pokračovat pletením ok prvního rukávu - tou samou přízí (= klubíčko, kterým pletete trup). Když připletete rukáv, pokračujete pletením další část trupu, pak opět rukáv a zbytek trupu. Klubka od rukávů prostě odstřihnete :-) (nechte si delší konec na začištění a zapošití). Hodně zdaru! Hana

country flag Marion Richter 15.10.2020 - 15:38:

Was bedeutet "dabei in der nächsten R " sollen erst die (4) cm kraus rechts gestrickt werden und dann abnehmen oder sofort abnehnem wenn alle Maschen auf der der Nadel sind??? Zu Rundnadel Nr. 4 wechseln und für die Rundpasse alle M (4) 4-5-5-6-6 cm kraus re hin- und zurückstr, dabei in der nächsten R (30) 32-38-40-42-42 M gleichmäßig verteilt abnehmen (jedoch nicht bei den Blenden-M abnehmen)

user icon DROPS Design 15.10.2020 kl. 16:45:

Liebe Frau Richter, nach der Abnahmen für den Raglan stricken Sie jetzt mit den Nadeln Nr4 4 cm (in die 1. Grösse) kraus rechts in die 1. Grösse, bei der nächsten Reihe (nach diesen 4 cm krausrechts), nehmen Sie 30 Maschen regelmäßig verteilt ab und stricken jetzt kraus rechts weiter. Hier wird es erklärt, wie man regelmäßig verteilt abnimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Febe 18.04.2020 - 10:08:

I den svenska versionen har det smugit sig in ett översättningsfel. I slutet på andra stycket under OK: står det " Maska av (40) 42-42-44-48-50 m", det skall så klart vara "Minska...".

user icon DROPS Design 23.04.2020 kl. 13:38:

Hej Tack för info, detta är nu rättat! Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Michele 15.01.2019 - 19:29:

What size is a 622 button (linge or mm)? Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 16.01.2019 kl. 08:09:

Dear Michele, buttons NO 622 are 15 mm - see them there. Happy knitting!

country flag Hélène MARTIN 13.12.2018 - 10:53:

Bonjour J'aimerais faire ce modèle plus long afin d'avoir un manteau. Pouvez-vous m'indiquer combien de laine me sera nécessaire pour faire l'arrondi (en 2 ans). Je dispose de 800 m de laine Merci de votre conseil LN

user icon DROPS Design 13.12.2018 kl. 12:36:

Bonjour Mme Martin, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Pour toute assistance personnalisée, merci de contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

country flag Louise 05.11.2018 - 09:00:

Hej! Jeg undrer mig over at man i bærestykket skal tage så mange masker ind på en gang i stedet for færre masker over flere omgange. Først strikkes lige op i nogle cm, så tages 30-40 masker ind på en enkelt række, så strikkes lige op igen, hvorefter der tages mange masker ind igen osv. Giver det ikke en trappefacon i stedet for en blød kurve op over skulderen? På forhånd mange tak! Mvh Louise

user icon DROPS Design 07.11.2018 kl. 11:06:

Hej Louise, nej ikke hvis du tager ind jævnt fordelt på omgangen, så bliver det lige så fint som på billedet i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

country flag Marie 03.03.2018 - 13:56:

Bonjour , J'ai besoin de votre aide car je voudrais tricoter ce gilet avec du fil alpaca bouclé. J'ai tout acheté et lorsque j'ai fait mes échantillons je réalise que il est impossible de compter les mailles du point mousse à cause des boucles. le point jersey c'est aussi difficile mais j'y arrive. Pouvez vous m'aider sil vous plait ? Un grand merci pour vos magnifiques modèles, Bien à vous ; Marie

user icon DROPS Design 05.03.2018 kl. 08:30:

Bonjour Marie, n'hésitez pas à utiliser des marqueurs pour repérer votre nombre de mailles à tricoter et ainsi vous y retrouver plus facilement. Votre magasin DROPS aura probablement d'autres astuces pour vous, n'hésitez pas à le contacter, même par mail, téléphone ou via les réseaux sociaux. Bon tricot!

country flag Siv Tone Drevsjømoen 14.01.2017 - 16:36:

Det står at alle fellinger skjer fra retten. Samtidig står det at det felles hver omgang. Forstår jeg rett når man da feller hver rette omgang (når man strikker vrang er dette også en omgang eller??)

user icon DROPS Design 19.01.2017 kl. 14:29:

Hej Siv. Der staar i opskriften (BOL): Gjenta fellingen på hver p fra retten totalt (2) 3-3-4-4-5 ganger = (153) 165-173-181-197-201 m tilbake på p. Saa det er ikke i hver p, men paa hver p fra retten

country flag Miriam 03.01.2017 - 19:39:

Wie werden die Abnahmen der Passe gestrickt? Einfach k2tog? In der Anleitung findet sich keine genauere Angabe. Vielen Dank und Freundliche Grüße!

user icon DROPS Design 04.01.2017 kl. 08:52:

Liebe Miriam, nach den Raglanabnahmen nehmen Sie gleichmäßig verteilt ab, mit 2 M. re. zusammen können Sie ja abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Jette Hovgaard 06.04.2016 - 17:16:

Hej Jeg har et spørgsmål vedr. raglan ærmet i denne opskrift. Der står start 2 m før mærket og strik 2 sammen, tag 1 m løst af, løft den maske over. Det lyder rigtig når man strikker fra forstykke til ærme, men hvad så når der strikkes fra ærme til ryg. Så forstår jeg ikke hvordan det skal foregå, for hvordan kommer raglanen til at se ud, hvis man starter 2 m før mærket, så er det jo på ærmet ? Har jeg overset noget ? forstår det ikke. mvh Jette Hovgaard

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2016 kl. 11:18:

Hej Jette, jo sådan gør du i hver overgang ifølge opskriften. Da får du alle raglanovergange ens. God fornøjelse!

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