Sweet Peach by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern and cables in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 159-16
DROPS design: Pattern no w-547
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour no 01, apricot

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 40 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for garter st.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

See diagrams A.2 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 146-162-178-194-218-234 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work pattern as follows: * A.3 A (= 2 sts ), A.3 B over the next 14-18-22-26-32-36 sts, A.3 C (= 2 sts), A.4 (= 37 sts), A.2 A (= 2 sts), A.2 B over the next 14-18-22-26-32-36 sts, A.2 C (= 2 sts) *, repeat from *-* one more time. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 73rd-81st-89th-97th-109th-117th st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. Continue pattern until piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm. Now cast off 3 sts on each side of every marker (= 6 sts in each side) and finish each part separately.

= 67-75-83-91-103-111 sts. Continue to cast off for armholes at beg of row in each side as follows: 2 sts 1-2-3-4-6-7 times and 1 st 0-1-2-3-5-6 times = 63-65-67-69-69-71 sts. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, slip the middle 25-27-29-31-31-33 sts on a stich holder for neck and finish each side separately. On next row dec 1 st towards the neck = 18-18-18-18-18-18 st. Cast off when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Work the other shoulder the same way.

= 67-75-83-91-103-111 sts. Cast off for armholes in the sides as on back piece = 63-65-67-69-69-71 sts. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-54-56 cm, slip the middle 19-21-23-25-25-27 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each part separately. Then cast off on every other row towards neck as follows: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 18-18-18-18-18-18 sts. Cast off when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Work the other shoulder the same way.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 37-39-41-43-44-46 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work 3 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. Then work in stocking st. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Inc every 4-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm 10-11-12-14-16-17 times in total = 57-61-65-71-76-80 sts. When piece measures 48-47-47-46-45-43 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (cast off 3 sts on each side of marker). Then continue back and forth on needle and cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 1-2-3-4-6-9 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm. Cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side before the remaining sts are cast off.

Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves.

Pick up approx. 84-95 sts (incl sts on stitch holders) around the neck on a short circular needle size 4 mm. Work 2 ridges. Cast off.


symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 159-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Jenny Strick wrote:

Ein wunderschöner luftiger Pulli! Stricke ihn schon zum zweiten Mal. Macht richtig Spaß. Perfekt fürs Frühjahr und kühlere Sommerabende.

13.08.2022 - 14:46

country flag Teresa Ruiz De Azua García wrote:

Hola, estoy tejiendo este jersey (Sweet Peach) y de pronto, cuando llego a los 36 cm y dejo la aguja circular para hacer por separado el frente y la espalda me encuentro con el problema de que no sé cómo tejer el revés de los gráficos A.2 y A.3. Tengo claro que el punto del derecho pasa a ser del revés, pero ¿cómo tejo las lazadas, los dos puntos juntos del derecho o el surjete? Muchas gracias.

22.07.2021 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Teresa, en las filas pares (por el lado revés) se trabajan todos los puntos de revés. El dibujo solo se trabaja por el lado derecho.

31.07.2021 kl. 17:57

country flag Helena wrote:

Ich habe noch etwas vergessen: die Schultern haben bei allen Grössen 18M! Aber auf dem Bild wird der Zopf bis oben gestrickt. Dazu müsste man mind. 24M haben...

01.01.2020 - 13:11

country flag Helena wrote:

Obwohl ich extra nur vorne das Mittelmuster gestrickt habe reicht die Wolle bei weitem nicht! Ich musste 3 zusätzliche Knäuel kaufen. Jemand anderer sogar 4 Knäuel... Bitte berichtigen sie die Garnmenge für die nachfolgenden Stricker.

27.12.2019 - 22:35

country flag Tannis Langford wrote:

I’m knitting Sweet Peach design and I’m having trouble understanding the pattern when I got to the back piece. How do I knitt in the round and not knitt the front at the same time .

04.04.2018 - 22:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Tannis, You have worked in the round until the piece measured 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm. Then you bind off 3 stitches on each side of each marker thread for the start of the armholes. Now you continue by working back and forth with first the back piece then the front piece. Happy knitting!

05.04.2018 kl. 08:04

country flag Ulla-Britt Olofsson wrote:

Mönster 159-16 Paris. Jag har stickat med rundsticka till ärmhålet och delat på arbetet men jag förstår inte hur jag kommer´vidare med rundsticka när det bara ska stickas från framsidan och bakstycket först. har ni en bra förklaring.

14.02.2018 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ulla-Britt. Selv om du strikker med rundpinne, skal det etter du har kommet til armhullet og arbeidet delt, strikkes frem og tilbake. Først strikker du bakstykket frem og tilbake (følg oppskriften under BAKST) og deretter strikker du forstykket (følg oppskriften under FRAMST). God Fornøyelse!

14.02.2018 kl. 12:53

country flag Pia Träger wrote:

Sweet peach 159-16 Jeg skal lave bluse i str. xl jeg slår 194 masker op starter på mønsteret selve mønstret er på 104 masker det ville sige at jeg har 90 masker tilbage I opskriften står der ud fra sidste mønster at jeg skal gentage fra *-* dette kan ikke helt lade sig gøre da der mangler 14 masker for at kunne lave mønstret endnu engang er de sidst 90 masker glatstrik Pia Träger

19.04.2016 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia mønsteret imellem *-* går over 97 m, du strikker samme mønster på forstykket som på ryggen. * A.3 A (= 2 m ), A.3 B over de næste 26 m, A.3 C (= 2 m), A.4 (= 37 m), A.2 A (= 2 m), A.2 B over de næste 26 m, A.2 C (= 2 m) * = 97 masker. God fornøjelse!

20.04.2016 kl. 09:33

country flag Angelika Kneifel wrote:

Danke für die Info. Ich wollte leider nicht 3 Wochen auf Ihre Antwort warten und habe jetzt selbst ausprobiert. Wenn man in XL am Armausschnitt nicht so viele Maschen abnimmt (ich habe 3 x 2 und 3 x 1 abgenommen, dann passt die Schulter einigermaßen und mit der Ärmellänge zusammen kommt man hin. Aber insgesamt habe ich mit Drops Herz you 5 - viel mehr Garn gebraucht als angegeben, trotz gleicher Lauflänge (75 m / 50 g) - insgesamt 4 Knäuel mehr!

21.09.2015 - 15:26

country flag Angelika Kneifel wrote:

Ich habe genau nach Anleitung gestrickt. XL. Mit den Abnahmen nach dem Rumpfteil werden hinter und Vorderteil zu schmal. Auf dem Bild, das sicher kleiner als xl ist, sehen die Schultern auch breiter aus. 18 Maschen am Schluss bei den Schultern ist zu schmal. Hat das noch niemand reklamiert? Ich habe jetzt bis zum Rumpf alles wieder aufgetrennt. Gerne hätte ich Ihre Meinung gehört. Sonst muss ich es evtl selbst vermessen. Die Zeichnung sieht auch anders aus. Viele Grüße Angelika Kneifel.

03.09.2015 - 01:21

DROPS Design answered:

Nach der Skizze ergibt sich für alle Größen in etwa die gleiche Schulterbreite. In Gr. XL haben Sie ja auch einen weiteren Halsausschnitt und eine längere Armkugel, durch die die vergleichsweise schmalere Schulter dann wieder ausgelichen werden sollte.

20.09.2015 kl. 15:49

country flag Sarah wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Hilfs-Team :) Ich bräuchte bitte Ihre Hilfe zum Weiterstricken....ich befinde mich an der Stelle, wo ich beidseitig des Markierers je 3M für die Armausschnitte abketten soll... Nun meine Probleme: 1.) soll ich die ersten 3 Maschen besser gleich am ENDE der Runde abnehmen? sonst "schlepp" ich ja nachher die letzte abgekette Masche noch im abgeketteten Armausschnitt hinterher??? und 2.) kette ich in der Muster-Runde oder in der Umschlag-Abstrick-Runde ab? und

22.03.2015 - 22:01

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, Sie können die ersten 3 M am Ende der letzten Rd abketten, wenn Sie den Faden nicht abschneiden und neu ansetzen wollen. Oder Sie ketten die ersten 3 M der Rd nicht am Anfang, sondern ganz zuletzt ab, das ist dann letztendlich das gleiche Ergebnis. Ich würde die M in einer Zwischenrunde abketten, dann kommen Sie mit dem Muster nicht durcheinander. Ansonsten sollten Sie die M, die Sie abketten, glatt re stricken.

23.03.2015 kl. 10:43

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