DROPS / 160 / 17

Darling by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern and cables in ”Cotton Light” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cl-036
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 40-44-49-54-61-67 cm / 15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19 1/4"-21 1/4"-24"-26½"
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
650-700-750-850-900-1000 g color no 21, light beige

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750-800-900 g colour no 03, light beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), and 28 sts x 30 rows in pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for correct size.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before 1st and 3rd marker: Beg 2 sts before marker and K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 2nd and 4th marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO before 1st and 3rd marker and after 2nd and 4th marker. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 256-272-304-324-356-388 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Light or "Belle". K 1 round. Work next round as follows: P 1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 7-8-10-10-12-14 times in total (= 28-32-40-40-48-56 sts rib), K 2, work A.1 (= 18 sts), A.2 (= 30-30-30-40-40-40 sts), A.1 (= 18 sts), work rib (= K 2/P 2) over the next 62-70-86-86-102-118 sts (beg and end with K 2), work A.1 (= 18 sts), A.2 (= 30-30-30-40-40-40 sts), A.1 (= 18 sts), work rib over the next 30-34-42-42-50-58 (beg and end with K 2) and finish round with P 1. Continue rib like this until last round in A.1/A.2 remains. Work last round as follows: Work in stockinette st over the first 31-35-43-43-51-59 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-7-9-7-9-11 sts evenly over these sts, work last round in A.1, A.2 and A.1 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts dec), work in stockinette st over the next 62-70-86-86-102-118 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-14-18-14-18-22 sts evenly over these sts, work last round in A.1, A.2 and A.1 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts dec) and work in stockinette st over the last 31-35-43-43-51-59 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-7-9-7-9-11 sts evenly over these sts = 208-224-248-272-296-320 sts remain on needle. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and K 1 round.
Then work as follows: Work 24-28-34-36-42-48 sts in stockinette st, insert 1 marker, work A.3 (= 16 sts), A.4 (= 24-24-24-32-32-32 sts), A.5 (= 16 sts), insert 1 marker, work 48-56-68-72-84-96 sts in stockinette st, insert 1 marker, work A.3 (= 16 sts), A.4 (= 24-24-24-32-32-32 sts), A.5 (= 16 sts), insert 1 marker and work the last 24-28-34-36-42-48 sts in stockinette st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', dec 1 st on the outside of each of the 4 markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 2½-2½-2½-2½-4-4 cm / 7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-1½"-1½" 6-6-6-6-4-4 times in total = 184-200-224-248-280-304 sts. When piece measures 24 cm / 9½'', inc 1 st on the outside the 4 markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2'' a total of 4 times = 200-216-240-264-296-320 sts.
When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'', work next round as follows: bind off 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts for armhole, work the next 94-102-112-124-138-150 sts as before, bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts for armhole, work the next 94-102-112-124-138-150 sts as before and bind off the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts for armhole. Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 94-102-112-124-138-150 sts. Continue back and forth in stockinette st with pattern as before. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-2-2-4-4 times, 1 st 1-3-4-3-6-7 times = 92-92-96-104-104-108 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''. Now bind off the middle 44-44-44-52-52-52 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to dec 1 st on next row from neck = 23-23-25-25-25-27 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' and bind off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
= 94-102-112-124-138-150 sts. Continue back and forth in stockinette st with pattern as on back piece AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armholes in each side as on back piece = 92-92-96-104-104-108 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 50-52-53-55-56-58 cm / 19 3/4"-20½"-21"-21½"-22"-22 3/4". Now slip the middle 22-22-22-30-30-30 sts on 1 stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off at beg of every row from neck as follows: bind off 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 4 times = 23-23-25-25-25-27 sts remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' and bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 56-60-60-64-68-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Light or "Belle". K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 8-10-8-10-12-10 sts evenly = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work in stockinette st. When piece measures 8-10-8-10-6-8 cm / 3"-4"-3"-4"-2½"-3", inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 3½-2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½" 12-15-16-18-19-22 times in total = 72-80-84-90-94-102 sts. When piece measures 49-49-48-47-45-44 cm / 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19"-18½"-17 3/4"-17 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts mid under sleeve and work back and forth until finished measurements. Bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3-3-3-4-4-5 times and 1 st 2-4-5-5-7-8 times. Then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 55-56-56-56-57-57 cm / 21 5/8''-22''-22''-22''-22½''-22½''. Bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows before loosely binding off all sts. Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 100 to 120 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holder at the front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Light or "Belle". P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Then loosely bind off with K.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.08.2015
Correction:BODY:... Work last round as follows: Work in stocking st over the first 31-35-43-43-51-59 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-7-9-7-9-11 sts evenly over these sts, work last round in A.1, A.2 and A.1 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts dec), work in stocking st over the next 62-70-86-86-102-118 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-14-18-14-18-22 sts evenly over these sts, work last round in A.1, A.2 and A.1 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts dec)...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= P 2 tog
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Elisabeth 01.10.2019 - 20:16:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort! Ja, ich weiß, dass man für Rippenmuster, Zopfmuster etc mehr Maschen braucht, als wenn man nur glatt rechts strickt. Ich habe nicht einfach nur die Maschenanzahl hochgerechnet, sondern den Pulli schon ca 15 cm gestrickt. Und es war - wie gesagt - viel zu weit. Das passierte mir schon einmal bei Cotton Light, bei anderen Garnen stimmte es immer. Nun, ich mach den Pulli jetzt in S, dann wirds schon passen.

Elisabeth 01.10.2019 - 09:18:

Nachtrag: Nichtsdestotrotz möchte ich mich für die vielen schönen Anleitungen bedanken, ich habe viel Freude an den fertigen Stücken!

Elisabeth 01.10.2019 - 09:11:

Hallo! Ich stricke den Pulli derzeit mit Cotton Light. Den Angaben zufolge wählte ich Größe L aus und musste ihn wieder aufmachen, weil er viel zu groß wurde, obwohl die Maschenprobe (am Pulli selbst gemessen) ganz genau stimmt. Trotzdem fiel er so groß aus wie bei XXL. Wie kann das passieren? Ich beginne ihn jetzt nochmal neu in Größe S, aber ich finde es ärgerlich, man verlässt sich ja doch auf die Angaben, da klafft es um gut 20 cm Umfang auseinander.

DROPS Design 01.10.2019 kl. 10:21:

Liebe Elisabeth, hier lesen Sie mehr über die Größen und Maßskizze, wenn Ihre Maschenprobe stimmt, sollte dann den fertigen Pullover auch wie in der Maßskizze stimmen. Am Anfang braucht man mehr Maschen wegen Bündchen/Rippenmuster, dann wegen auch Zöpfe und linke Maschen brauchen Sie einigen Maschen mehr als wie glatt rechts gestrickt. Gerne zeigen Sie Ihren DROPS Laden Ihren Strickstück, so können sie Ihnen am besten helfen. Viel spaß beim stricken!

Pascale DESOULLE 05.11.2018 - 13:23:

Bonjour, pouvez vous transcrire le modèle Darling avec des aiguilles fixes et non circulaires ?

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 13:28:

Bonjour Mme Desoulle, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, vous trouverez toutefois ici de quoi vous aider. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Pascale Desoulle 05.11.2018 - 13:22:

Bonjour, pouvez vous transcrire ce modèle avec des explications pour aiguilles droites et non pas circulaires ?

Lucie 02.07.2015 - 00:42:

Bonjour, j'en suis à rabattre pour la première fois. J'ai rabattu 4 mailles, compté 112 mailles (en comptant la dernière restant tricotées des rabattues), etc. et en rabattant les 4 dernières, je me retrouve avec des mailles, des mailles rabattues, une maille, mon marqueur, mailles rabattues, etc. je ne vois pas comment continuer mon tricot. Un coup de pouce ? merci :)

DROPS Design 02.07.2015 kl. 10:14:

Bonjour Lucie, vous rabattez ici les mailles des emmanchures pour continuer ensuite chaque pièce séparément. Votre ouvrage commence sur le côté: vous rabattez les 4 premières m (1/2 emmanchure) puis vous tricotez les 112 m suiv. comme avant et rabattez les 8 m suiv. (= 2ème emmanchure), vous tricotez les 112 m suivantes comme avant et rabattez les 4 dernières m (fin de la 1ère emmanchure). Vous continuez ensuite le dos et le devant séparément, cette fois en allers et retours (quand vous tricotez le dos, mettez les mailles du devant sur un arrêt de mailles). Bon tricot!

Ingrid 10.06.2015 - 21:08:

Super flot trøje, som jeg straks gik i gang med. Nu er jeg så bare stødt på et problem... Det er sidste del af ærmet, hvor der står: "Videre lukkes der 2 m af i hver side til arb måler 55 cm." Ifølge opskriften skal ærmekuplen altså være 6 cm i str S, hvilket på mit strikketøj er for lidt i forhold til ærmegabet. Er det muligt I kan fortælle hvor mange gange man skal lukke af, og hvor mange masker man skal ende med at have?

DROPS Design 07.08.2015 kl. 12:22:

Hej Ingrid, Jo du lukker 2 m af i starten af hver p til arb måler 55 cm. Sørg for at lukke LØST af, så du kan "trække" buen hele vejen rundt i ærmegabet. God fornøjelse!

Hanne 04.04.2015 - 00:59:

"strikk siste omg i A.1, A.2 og A.3." Jeg har strikket siste omg i A1 og A2, men får ikke A3 til å stemme. Mønsteret på A3 har 16 masker. Der jeg skal ha a3, er der A1 er, men A1 har 18 masker, som stemmer med det jeg har strikket. Er A3 egentlig A1? Blir 2 masker til overs om jeg bruker A3! :) Ikke har det blitt brukt A3 tidligere i oppskriften heller.

DROPS Design 15.05.2015 kl. 11:21:

Hej Hanne, Jeg tror du har ret i at det skal være A.1 her også. Vi lader Design se på den. Tak for info!

Charo. 18.03.2015 - 19:32:

Hola! Estoy haciendo las muestras para tejer el patrón y consigo hacer 22 puntos en 30 filas en 10 x 10 cm, con agujas del 3.5, pero al hacer la muestra del patrón, con el mismo número de aguja, me sale mucho más grande. 28 puntos x 30 filas miden 12 cm. ¿Qué número de aguja utilizo?

DROPS Design 20.03.2015 kl. 10:30:

Hola Charo. La muestra del patrón te sale más grande porque no tienes aún dominado el patrón seguramente. Te recomiendo trabajar el patrón varias veces con la misma ag tamaño 3.5 para ajustar a la tensión necesaria.

Brandy 08.02.2015 - 13:50:

Parfait

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