DROPS / 156 / 43

Clear Water by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Clear Water / DROPS 156-43 - Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”.
Size: S - XXXL.
  • Clear Water / DROPS 156-43 - Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”.
Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-074
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
450-500-500-550-650-700 g colour no 7402, light sea green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 4-4-4-5-5-5 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.90£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st as follows: K 2 tog.

BUTTONHOLES:
Cast off for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = cast off fourth st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on next row over this st. Cast off for button holes when piece measures (measured from edge with picked up sts):
SIZE S: 1, 6, 10 and 15 cm
SIZE M: 1, 6, 11 and 17 cm
SIZE L: 1, 6, 11 and 17 cm
SIZE XL: 1, 5, 10, 14 and 20 cm
SIZE XXL: 1, 5, 10, 14 and 19 cm
SIZE XXXL: 1, 6, 11, 16 and 21 cm
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JACKET:
The jacket is worked in parts in different directions. Arrows on chart show the knitting direction. Work entire jacket in GARTER ST - see explanation above, back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.

BACK PIECE:
The back piece is worked in 2 parts that are sewn tog mid back. Then work yoke from here.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
INC ON EVERY ROW IN EACH SIDE OF PIECE WHILE DEC.
INCREASE:
Inc 1 st at beg of every row from RS (= y – see chart) and at beg of every row from WS (= x) by working 2 sts in first st.
Repeat inc mid back (= y) until piece measures 32 cm in all sizes (measured along y). Repeat inc in bottom edge (= x) until piece measures 24-26-28-30½-33½-36½ cm measured along x. NOTE! In size XXL and XXXL inc mid back (= y) are finished before all inc in bottom edge are done (= x). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
DECREASE IN THE SIDE:
When inc in bottom edge (= x) is done, dec in the side (= z) as follows: Dec 1 st – READ DECREASE TIP - at beg of every row from WS. Repeat dec on every row from WS until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm along z - dec 1 st at beg of next row from WS inside 4 sts (after dec). Repeat dec every 2½ cm a total of 10 times.
DECREASE MID BACK:
When inc mid back (= y) is done, dec 1 st at beg of next row from RS. Repeat dec at beg of every row from RS until 3 sts remain. Cast off.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Work as left back piece but reversed. I.e. all dec/inc explained at beg of row from RS are now done at beg of row from WS and vice versa.

ASSEMBLY BACK PIECE:
Sew tog left and right back piece mid back in outer loops of edge sts.

YOKE AT THE BACK:
The piece is worked back and forth in garter st until finished measurements. Pick up (from RS) 1 st in every ridge on back piece - see dotted line on chart (same as on front piece). On next row adjust no of sts to 96-106-116-128-142-156. Cast on 1 st at the end of the next 2 rows (= edge st) = 98-108-118-130-144-158 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm from where sts were picked up. Cast on 10-10-10-7-7-7 new sts in each side for sleeve. Then cast on in each side on every other row: 4-3-3-3-2-2 sts 12-15-15-17-17-19 times and 15-15-11-3-14-5 sts 1 time = 244-248-250-252-254-258 sts. When piece measures 26-28-30-32-34-36 cm from where sts were picked up, cast off the middle 36-38-40-40-42-46 sts for neck. Finish each shoulder separately. On next row, cast off 1 st towards the neck = 103-104-104-105-105-105 sts on each shoulder/sleeve. Continue to work until piece measures 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm from where sts were picked up - sleeve opening measures approx. 14-14-15-15-16-16 cm - loosely cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work front piece diagonally (as right back piece + band), then work the yoke, i.e. work as follows: Cast on 10-10-10-10-11-11 sts (= 3 sts + 7-7-7-7-8-8 band sts) on circular needle size 3 with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work as RIGHT BACK PIECE, but work the last 7-7-7-7-8-8 sts from WS without inc (= band). NOTE! When dec from RS beg, cast off these 7-7-7-7-8-8 band sts.

YOKE (LEFT FRONT PIECE):
Worked back and forth in garter st. Pick up (from RS) 1 st in every ridge and 1 st in every band st in waist – see dotted line on chart. On next row adjust no of sts to 55-61-65-71-79-86. On next row cast on 1 new st in the side (= edge st) = 56-62-66-72-80-87 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm from where sts were picked up. Cast on 10-10-10-7-7-7 new sts for sleeve at the end of next row from WS for sleeve. Then cast on in the side on every other row: 4-3-3-3-2-2 sts 12-15-15-17-17-19 times and 15-15-11-3-14-5 sts 1 time = 129-132-132-133-135-137 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 16-18-18-20-20-22 cm. Now cast off 18-18-18-18-20-22 sts towards mid front for neck. Then cast off on every other row towards the neck 2 sts 4-5-5-5-5-5 times = 103-104-104-105-105-105 sts remain on row for shoulder/sleeve. Work until piece measures 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm from where sts were picked up, adjust according to back piece. Loosely cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work front piece diagonally (same as left back piece + band), then work the yoke, i.e. work as follows:
Cast on 10-10-10-10-11-11 sts (= 3 sts + 7-7-7-7-8-8 band sts) on circular needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk.
Work as LEFT BACK PIECE - AT THE SAME TIME work the first 7-7-7-7-8-8 sts from RS without inc (= band).

YOKE (RIGHT FRONT PIECE):
Work as LEFT YOKE but reversed - i.e. cast on sts for sleeve at the end of row from RS. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder/overarm seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up (from RS) approx. 100 to 140 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 3 ridges in garter st back and forth. Loosely cast off.

CUFFS:
Pick up 1 st in every ridge at the bottom of sleeve. On next row adjust no of sts to 68-68-72-72-78-78. Then work back and forth over all sts. When cuff measures 17-18-18-19-19-19 cm (or desired length), loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seam, underarm seam and cuff seam in one inside 1 edge st. Sew on the buttons approx. 1 cm from edge on left front piece.

CROCHET EDGE:
Beg by working mid back of neck on crochet hook size 3.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 1 dc, * 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* around the neck, down along front piece, around the entire bottom edge and up and around to the back of neck again. Finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round.
Work the same way around the cuffs at the bottom of both sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = Knitting direction
symbols = Pick up st here
symbols = bottom edge
symbols = mid front/mid back
symbols = side
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (56)

country flag Caromau 07.09.2018 - 14:18:

Ce gilet est très beau, mais comme il est de construction complexe, des photos supplémentaires (du dos, du bas des manches, etc) auraient été les bienvenues.

country flag Maria Pessina 05.02.2018 - 13:14:

Posso lavorare coi ferri diritti il modello?

user icon DROPS Design 05.02.2018 kl. 14:13:

Buongiorno Maria. Il cardigan è lavorato avanti e indietro sui ferri. Può usare i ferri dritti e lavorare seguendo le spiegazioni. Buon lavoro!

country flag Breibrij 29.10.2017 - 14:28:

Zou u wat meer foto’s bij het patroon kunnen zetten? Ik ben bezig met een vest (Drops 156-43), en ik zou het handig vinden als ik ook de achterkant van het vest kon zien. Ook detailfoto’s van de verschillende onderdelen lijken mij een goed idee, ter ondersteuning van de beschrijving bij het patroon.

user icon DROPS Design 29.10.2017 kl. 18:50:

Hallo Breibrij, Helaas zijn er van dit ontwerp niet meer foto's dan degene die afgebeeld is. Mocht je ergens niet uit komen dan kun je altijd vragen om hulp, ook bij je verkooppunt.

country flag Lida Van Wersch 23.10.2017 - 19:24:

Dit staat bij de minderingen voor de zijkant van het rugpand: minder 1 st aan het begin van de volgende nld aan de verkeerde kant naast 4 st (na het minderen). Herhaal dit minderen elke 2½ cm in totaal 10 keer. Is dit een extra mindering na de mindering aan de zijkant? Is dit 1 keer, of moet je dat op deze manier na iedere 2,5 cm herhalen. Dat zou neerkomen op 2 minderingen in een naald en kom je op een totaal van 20 steken geminderd

user icon DROPS Design 25.10.2017 kl. 10:20:

Hallo Lida, Om in een punt te breien, minder je langs z, en daarnaast minder je ook nog 10 keer voor de taillering naast 4 steken.

Gyde 30.05.2017 - 15:37:

Hallo liebes Drops Team. Ich bin jetzt bei dem linken Vorderteil. Da soll eine Blende eingearbeitet werden. Lt. Beschreibung wie das rechte Rückenteil arbeiten. Das heißt, am Anfang jeder Hin-u. Rückreihe 1 M zunehmen. Also verdoppel ich genauso wie beim Rückenteil und danach dann noch die 7 Maschen für die Blende dranstricken? Kann mir das bitte jemand ganz genau erklären? Ich verstehe es nicht. Vielen Dank. Gyde

user icon DROPS Design 30.05.2017 kl. 15:51:

Liebe Gyde, die Zunahmen bei den beiden Vorderteile werden innerhalb die 7 Blendemaschen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gyde 18.05.2017 - 14:48:

Vielen Dank für die Hilfe. Jetzt hab ich es. Bei 32 cm mit den Abnahmen anfangen. So steht es aber nicht in der Anleitung, finde ich !!! Aber okay. Danke nochmal. LG und schönen Tag. Gyde

Gyde 18.05.2017 - 13:02:

Hallo. In der Beschreibung steh: die Zunahmen an der hinteren Mitte =y arbeiten, bis die Arbeit eine Gesamtlänge von 32 cm hat. Dann hab ich einfach ohne Zunahme weiter gestrickt. Dann steht unten: Wenn die Zunahmen an der hinteren Mitte fertig sind, dann abnehmen. Das ist für mich alles etwas unverständlich. So wie ich es gestrickt habe, sieht es merkwürdig aus. Kann mir jemand helfen? Danke und liebe Grüße. Gyde

user icon DROPS Design 18.05.2017 kl. 13:44:

Liebe Gyde, an der hinteren Mitte (y) bis 32 cm zunehmen, gleichzeitg an der unteren Kante (x) bis 36,5 zunehmen. Wenn die Zunahmen an y fertig sind, beginnen die Abnahmen an y. Wenn die Zunahmen an x fertig sind, beginnen die Abnahmen an z. (In den Größen XXL und XXXL sind die Zunahmen an der hinteren Mitte (= y) vor den Zunahmen am unteren Rand (= x) fertig.). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gyde 18.05.2017 - 10:06:

Hallo Drops Team. Wann sind die Zunahmen fertig? Nach 32 cm an der Achse y oder erst wenn die 10 Abnahmen an der Achse z fertig sind? LG Gyde

user icon DROPS Design 18.05.2017 kl. 13:36:

Liebe Gyde, die Zunahmen bei y sind fertig bey 32 cm, dann wird es bei y abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gyde 17.05.2017 - 22:32:

Hallo. Ich habe ein Problem. Ich bin beim linken Rückenlehne. Achse y soll 32 cm sein. Danach die Achse x 36 1/2 cm. Wenn Achse x fertig ist, kommt die Seite z dran. Hier sollen wir abnehmen. Es soll doch bestimmt ein Rechteck entstehen. Was ist mit der Achse y? Muss man hier nicht nach den 32 cm weiter zunehmen? Sonst gibt es doch kein Rechteck. Danke und liebe Grüße. Gyde

user icon DROPS Design 18.05.2017 kl. 09:08:

Liebe Gyde,Wenn die Zunahmen an der hinteren Mitte (= y) fertig sind, am Anfang der nächsten Hin-R 1 M abnehmen. Diese Abnahme am Anfang jeder Hin-R arbeiten, bis noch 3 M auf der Nadel sind. Abketten - siehe ABNAHMEN HINTERE MITTE. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Silvia 24.02.2017 - 16:18:

Hallo, Gerne würde ich diese Jacke stricken und ich versuche gerade die Anleitung zu verstehen. Was ist bitte eine Passe? Wozu wird sie benötigt? Danke für eine kurze Information. Herzliche Grüße,Silvia

user icon DROPS Design 24.02.2017 kl. 17:10:

Liebe Silvia, nach dem Sie das untere Teil (quer) gestrickt haben, dann nehmen Sie Maschen auf, so dass Sie das obere Teil (vom gepunkten Linie bis Schulter). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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