DROPS / 156 / 6

Miss Moneypenny by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS skirt with spiral pattern, worked top down in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no me-072
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 28, north sea

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 18 dc x 18 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 5 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round.

INCREASE TIP: Inc by working 2 dc in 1 dc. NOTE: Inc alternately before and after markers.

* 1 dc in back loop of each of the next 7 sts, 1 tr in front loop of st from 2 rows below next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Pattern is over 8 sts and no of sts are divisible by 8 + 1. Work in the round without finishing the round, this way the pattern will automatically displace 1 st on every round and form a spiral pattern.

The piece is worked top down. First back and forth, then put tog and worked in the round.
Work 136-151-168-194-215-236 loose ch with Merino Extra Fine on hook size 4 mm. Work first row (= RS) as follows: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 1-2-5-3-3-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the rest of row = 116-129-144-166-184-202 dc. READ CROCHET INFO! Then work 6 rows with 1 dc in every dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Now insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: 1st marker after 11-12-12-16-15-19 sts, then there should be 19-21-24-27-30-33 sts between each of the markers, there will be 10-12-12-15-15-18 sts after last marker at the end of row. On next row inc 1 dc before all markers – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other row 7 more times = 164-177-192-214-232-250 dc. On next row from RS work the entire row before putting piece tog with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of row. Piece measures 14 cm, now work in the round. On next round, inc 5-8-9-3-9-7 dc evenly = 169-185-201-217-241-257 dc. Then work SPIRAL PATTERN - see explanation above. Work until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm in total. Fasten off.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS: Work buttonhole loops along left side of opening at the top (beg at the bottom) from WS as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 2 sts, 3 ch, skip 1 cm, * work dc for 2 cm, 3 ch, skip 1 cm *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, finish with 2 dc at the top, turn and work back as follows: 1 dc in every dc and 3 dc in every ch-space.

BUTTON FOLDING EDGE: Along the other side of the opening (i.e. right side) work 5 rows with dc back and forth, cut the yarn. Sew the buttons on to the button folding edge.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (37)

Montserrat 17.01.2020 - 10:41:

No entiendo esta parts del patron, me lo podeis explicar. Muchas gracias 1 p.b. en cada uno de los sig 1-2-5-3-3-3 p.de cad, *saltar 1 p.de cad, 1 p.b. en cada uno de los sig 6 p.de cad*, repetir de * a * el resto de la fila = 116-129-144-166-184-202 p.b.

Karin 17.08.2019 - 00:21:

De eerste meerdering om de 24 steken snap ik. blijf je in volgende toer waar je moet meerderen ook weer parkeerders zetten om de 24 of hoeveel moet je hierbij optellen? is 1 steek genoeg? alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 16.10.2019 kl. 10:29:

Dag Karin,

Als je eenmaal de markeerders hebt geplaatst neem je ze mee in de hoogte, steeds tussen dezelfde steken. Je hoeft dit niet opnieuw uit te tellen. Door het meerderen komen er meer steken tussen de markeerders.

Mary 25.01.2019 - 13:01:

Hi. After the second round do you connect the two ends together? If not, where do you put the slip stitch mentioned in the crochet info? Also, when you put the markers, do you move them to the new round after the increases?

DROPS Design 25.01.2019 kl. 14:10:

Dear Mary, the skirt is worked top down back and forth until piece measures 14 cm, then on next row from RS finish this row with 1 sl st in the ch from beg of row, you will now work in the round, turn piece, start next round with 1 ch, work all round and finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round, continue like this working alternately from RS and from WS until you start spiral pattern. At the beg of spiral pattern, work 1 ch at the beg of round, finish round with 1 sl st in the 1 ch from beg of round and continue from RS. Happy crocheting!

Mary 25.01.2019 - 12:59:

Hi. After the second round do you connect the two ends together? If not, where do you put the slip stitch mentioned in the crochet info? Also, when you put the markers, do you move them to the new round after the increases?

StefanieSenger 12.10.2018 - 22:57:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage bezgl. der Zunahme. In der Anleitung unten wird geschrieben, dass man in jeder zweiten Reihe eine Masche zunehmen soll. Im Zunahmetipp jedoch wird geschrieben, dass man in der Hin-Runde eine Masche zunehmen soll und in der Rück-Runde wieder eine Masche zunehmen soll, nur hinter der Markierung. Wird jetzt jede Reihe eine zugenommen oder jede zweite?

DROPS Design 15.10.2018 kl. 08:11:

Liebe Frau Senger, die Zunhamen sollen Sie bei der 1. Zunahmerunde vor allen Markierern häkeln, und bei der 2. Zunahmenrunde nach allen Markierern häkeln, dh die Zunhamen entstehen in jeder 2. Runde und abwechlsungsweise vor und nach jeder Markierung. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Coldwind 24.08.2018 - 08:31:

Habe diesen rock mit 96 luftmaschen angeschlagen für kindergrösse 134. Passt.

Femke 10.10.2017 - 22:32:

In de omschrijving staat dat dit patroon gemaakt moet worden met Drops Merino Extra Fine. De steekverhouding is 18st x 18 toeren. Ik heb deze wol in de hoeveelheid gekocht die jullie adviseren. Alleen staat er op de bol steekverhouding 21st x 28 toeren! Dit verwachte ik niet aangezien ik de door jullie geadviseerde wol bij het patroon koop. Jammer, nu veel reken- en denkwerk hoe ik dit mooi in het patroon kan verwerken. Nog advies waar ik de extra toeren in de band het beste kan verwerken?

DROPS Design 11.10.2017 kl. 21:48:

Hallo Femke, De stekenverhouding die op de wikkel van de bol staat gaat over de stekenverhouding bij breien in tricotsteek. Deze rok wordt gehaakt, waardoor de stekenverhouding anders is. Je kunt gewoon een proeflapje maken met de juiste haaknaald en door vasten te haken zoals aangegeven in het patroon en evt. de haaknaald aanpassen zodat het proeflapje overeen komt.

Anita 21.08.2017 - 08:26:

Ich brauche Hilfe. Also ich habe die angegebenen LM (136) angeschlagen und ich hatte wie beschrieben eine FM in die 2. LM gemacht. Ab da habe ich das Problem, wie ist es konkret gemeint je 1 Fm in 1-2-5-3-3-3 usw. So wie ich es verstanden habe, komme ich am Ende der 1.Reihe nicht auf die 116 FM sondern auf 71 FM. (bin ein Anfänger)

DROPS Design 29.08.2017 kl. 09:37:

Liebe Anita, bei der 1. Reihe in 1. Größe häkeln Sie so: 1 feste M (fM) in die 2. Lm ab der Nadel, je 1 fM in die nächste 1 Lm, *1 Lm überspringen, je 1 fM in die 6 nächsten Lm*, von *-* bis R-Ende wdh = 116 fm. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Benedek-Kováts Emese 20.07.2017 - 19:03:

A magyar fordításban elírták a szaporítást. Nem 5 cm-ként hanem soronként írják az angol és amerikai változatban is, az nincs annyi. egyébként nagyon jó minta, színátmenetes fonalból is jól mutat.

DROPS Design 23.07.2017 kl. 22:03:

Kedves Emese! Köszönjük, hogy felhívta a figyelmünket a hibára, ami így már javításra is került.

Kittymeeks 19.11.2016 - 18:25:

"On next row inc 1 sc before all markers – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other row 7 more times" So do I repeat the inc on every other row, not all rows, and end up with 14 rows? Or repeat on every other of the 7 rows (and end up with 7 rows?)? The wording of this has confused me. Thanks!

DROPS Design 21.11.2016 kl. 09:38:

Dear Kittymeeks, you will inc every other row a total of 8 times, ending with a total of 16 rows: *work 1 inc row, work 1 row without inc*, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times. Happy crocheting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 156-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.