DROPS Extra / 0-938

Matilda by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS coat and hat with decorative edges in ”DROPS ♥ YOU #4” or ”Nepal”. Size 3 - 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-015-bn
Yarn group C
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COAT:
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

Materials:
DROPS ♥ YOU #4 from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 0607, light brown
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 0282, beige

Or use:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 0618, camel
50-50-50-50-50 colour no 0206, light beige.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 mm – or size needed to get 12 tr x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS COCONUT BUTTONS, NO 515: 5-5-5-6-6 pieces.

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HAT:
Size: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years
Head circumference: 50/52 - 52/54 - 54/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS ♥ YOU #4 from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g colour no 0607, light brown
Some left-over 0282, beige for decoration.

Or use:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g colour no 0618, camel
Some left-over 0206, light beige for decoration.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 mm – or size needed to get 12 tr x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.55 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 1.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 1.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.05£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO COAT:
Replace first tr on row with 3 ch.

DECREASE TIP COAT:
Dec 1 tr by working 2 tr tog as follows:
Work 1 tr in first tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
Dec 2 tr by working 3 tr tog as follows:
Work 1 tr in first tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

CROCHET INFO HAT:
Beg every tr round with 3 ch instead of first tr. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Beg every dc round with 1 ch instead of first dc. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP HAT:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in same tr.
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BACK PIECE:
Work 61-63-68-73-78 ch with light brown on hook size 6 mm. Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, continue with 1 tr in each of the next 2-4-4-4-4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 48-50-54-58-62 tr - READ CROCHET INFO! Continue with tr upwards on all rows.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When piece measures 15 cm, dec 1 tr in each side by working the second and third tr and the 2 next to last tr tog – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 5-5-6-6-7 cm 3 more times = 40-42-46-50-54 tr. When piece measures 33-36-39-42-45 cm, dec for armholes in each side as follows: Work sl sts over the first 2-2-3-4-5 tr, then work tr until 2-2-3-4-5 tr remain, turn piece. Continue with tr, there are now 36-38-40-42-44 tr on row.
Continue to work until piece measures approx. 47-51-55-59-63 cm. Now work 1 row with tr only over the outermost 12-13-13-14-14 tr in each side for shoulder (the middle 12-12-14-14-16 tr = neck). Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 34-36-38-41-43 ch with light brown on hook size 6 mm. Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, continue with 1 tr in each of the next 5-2-4-2-4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 27-28-30-32-34 tr. Continue with tr upwards on all rows (the 3 outermost tr towards mid front = band). When piece measures 15 cm, beg dec in the side as on back piece. When dec are done, 23-24-26-28-30 tr remain on row. When piece measures 33-36-39-42-45 cm, the outermost 2-2-3-4-5 tr towards the side are no longer worked. Continue with tr over the remaining 21-22-23-24-25 tr. When piece measures 43-47-50-54-57 cm, the outermost 7-7-8-8-9 tr towards mid front are no longer worked. Then dec 1 tr towards mid front on the next 2 rows by working the 2 next to last tr towards mid front tog = 12-13-13-14-14 tr remain on shoulder. Fasten off when piece measures 48-52-56-60-64 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Work 32-32-32-39-39 ch with light brown on hook size 6 mm. Turn and work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the next 5-5-5-2-2 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 26-26-26-31-31 dc (first ch on row does NOT count as 1 dc). Turn piece and continue with 1 tr in every dc. When piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 tr in each side by working 2 tr in second and next to last tr. Repeat inc every 2-2-2-3-3 rows 3-4-5-4-5 more times = 34-36-38-41-43 tr.
When piece measures 26-30-34-37-41 cm, beg dec for sleeve cap. Work sl sts over the first 3 tr, then work tr until 3 tr remain, turn piece. Work 3 ch, then work the next 3 tr tog – SEE DECREASE TIP! Work tr until 4 tr remain, work the next 3 tr tog, then 1 tr in last tr. Continue like this by working the 3 next to last tr on every row tog until piece measures 33-37-41-45-49 cm, fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams, side seams and sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Sew in the sleeves in body.
Fasten the buttons on left front piece, the top button approx. 2 cm from neck/beg of collar, the bottom button approx. 12 cm from bottom edge. Place the rest of the buttons evenly between these 2 buttons. Button through band on right front piece.

COLLAR:
Work 35-50 dc around the neck with light brown on hook size 6 mm. Continue with 1 dc in every dc until collar measures approx. 6-7-7-8-8 cm. Fasten off.

DIAGONAL STITCHES:
Sew diagonal stitches with beige under chest and on the back. Approx. 1-2 cm below armhole. Stitches should go over approx. 1.5 x 1.5 cm.

DECORATIVE POCKETS:
Work 18-18-20-20-22-22 ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 6 mm with light brown. Work 1st row as follows: 1 dc in 2nd ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish by working 1 dc in each of the last 1-1-3-3-1-1 ch = 13-13-15-15-16-16 dc. Then work 1 dc in every dc until approx. 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm have been worked. Fasten off. Work another decorative pocket.
Sew the decorative pockets approx 3-5 cm below the diagonal stitches on each front piece. Sew with neat stitches along upper edge of pocket and sew 1 stitch in each bottom corner.

CROCHET EDGES:
Work around all edges on jacket with beige on hook size 6 mm. Start mid back on collar. Work 1 dc, * 1 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* around the collar, down along front piece, around the edge at the bottom and up along front piece and back of neck again. Finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round. Work the same way at around the bottom of the sleeves and around the loose edge on pockets.

CROCHET EDGE (around armholes):
Work an edge around the sleeve, on the over side of where sleeve has been fastened in front and back piece. Use crochet hook size 6 mm and beg under sleeve. Work 1 dc, * 1 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* around the entire armhole and finish with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round.

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HAT:
The piece is worked top down.
Work 4 ch on hook size 6 mm with light brown and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 1: Read CROCHET INFO! Work 8 tr in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: 2 tr in every tr the entire round = 16 tr.
ROUND 3: * 1 tr in first tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 tr.
ROUND 4: * 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 tr.
ROUND 5: * 1 tr in each of the first 3 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 tr.
ROUND 6: * 1 tr in each of the first 4 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 tr.
ROUND 7: * 1 tr in each of the first 5 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 tr. Finish inc in size 3/5 years here.
ROUND 8: ONLY WORKED IN SIZE 6/9 – 10/12: Work 1 tr in every tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 3-6 tr evenly READ INCREASE TIP! = 59-62 tr
ALL SIZES: Now work 1 tr in every tr on every round until piece measures approx. 18-19-20 cm. Switch to beige and work 1 dc in every tr the entire round. Fasten off.

CROCHET FLOWER:
Work 6 ch with light brown on hook size 6 mm and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch, 1 htr in ch-ring, * 7 ch, 1 sl st through the 2 strands at the front of previous htr, 2 htr in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* until 5 ch-spaces have been worked, 7 ch, 1 sl st through the 2 strands at the front of previous htr, 1 htr in ch-ring and finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: Work sl sts until first ch-space. Work 1 ch, work 12 htr in space, * work 12 htr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* in all ch-spaces and finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round. Cut the yarn and pull it through.
ROUND 3: Switch to beige and beg with 1 sl st in second htr on 1st round, 1 ch, 1 dc in same st. Fold ch-spaces towards you and work 1 dc in 1 of the strands at the back of all htr (the top of htr from previous row tilts forwards and is clearly visible from front). Between all spaces work 1 very loose dc in second htr from 1st round. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round. Cut the yarn and pull it through.

ASSEMBLY: Sew the flower on to the hat. Fasten off.



Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-938) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Ingrid 14.04.2018 - 18:01:

,Hejsan! Har gjort denna söta kappa till mitt barn-barn, stor succé. Nu skulle jag ville göra en likadan till mig själv? Hur ska man göra för att få till en stl 38-40?? Vänliga hälsningar Ingrid

DROPS Design 17.04.2018 kl. 13:39:

Tyvärr har vi inte just nu resurser att räkna om mönstret till vuxen stl. Se gärna på våra andra virkmönster i vuxen storlek.

Myriam Le Corre 18.09.2016 - 17:40:

Bonjour comment assemblez vous les côtés de la veste et des manches au crochet ou à l' aiguille à coudre? merci de votre aide

DROPS Design 19.09.2016 kl. 09:49:

Bonjour Mme Le Corre, les 2 peuvent être envisagés, au choix, en tous les cas à ce que la couture ne soit pas trop épaisse, quelle que soit la technique que vous choisissez. Bon crochet!

Anna 04.11.2015 - 20:31:

Ja det läste jag med i mönstret. Så det är inte meningen att man ska göra knapphål då?

DROPS Design 05.11.2015 kl. 12:20:

Nej det är inte meningen, de knäpps bara genom framkanten.

Anna 31.10.2015 - 21:33:

Hej. Ska det inte vara knapphål på kappan? Det står ingenstans att man ska göra knapphål men det står hur man ska sy i knapparna??! Ska knapparna knäppas genom maskorna i kappan bara??

DROPS Design 02.11.2015 kl. 10:07:

Hej Anna, ja precis "Knapparna knäpps genom framkanten på höger framst" Lycka till!

K.winnemuller 21.11.2014 - 19:07:

Ik heb dit vest voor mijn kleindochter gemaakt geweldig het staat haar zo mooi. Nu wil ik van dezelfde wol en voor een jongetje van bijna 2 jaar een truitje maken met een capuchon en voorsluitng met grote knopen. Hebben jullie daar een patroontje van?

DROPS Design 27.11.2014 kl. 16:08:

Hallo. Wij hebben maar een paar gehaakte truien/vesten, klik hier voor het zoekresultaat. Of u kunt proberen dit patroon aan te passen voor een jongetje.

Irene Heed Dalman 09.11.2014 - 10:26:

Hur ska man göra "knapphålen" på Matilda barnkappa?

DROPS Design 10.11.2014 kl. 11:20:

Hej Ireen. Knapparna knäpps genom framkanten på höger framst

Desiré 29.12.2013 - 18:57:

Ik heb deze als beginner gehaakt voor 3/5 jaar. Helaas vond ik hem met toer 7 erbij echt nog te groot. Daarna nog een x gehaakt, maar dan tot toer 6 en toen gestopt met meerderen. Heb er tot 2 x toe een roze toer doorheengehaakt. Resultaat is echt super!! De maat is perfect voor een 3-5 jarige en voor een beginner ook heel goed te haken dit!! Dit wordt echt mn favo muts patroon ben ik bang!! Dank je wel Garnstudio!

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