Miss Spring by DROPS Design

Crochet cap for children in DROPS Nepal.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-008-bn
Yarn group C
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years
Head circumference: 50/52 - 52/54 - 54/58 cm / 19 3/4"/20½" - 20½"/21 1/4" - 21 1/4"/22 3/4"
Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g color no 6273, cerise
50 g for all sizes in color no 3620, red (for flower)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6 mm / J/10 - or size needed to get 13 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
US/UK: This pattern is in US English. There are different crochet terms in British and US English. Conversion - see page 4.


CROCHET INFO: Replace first sc on every round with 1 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

DECREASE TIP:
* Insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

REVERS CROCHET:
Work as sc but backwards. I.e. crochet around from left to right
----------------------------------------------------------

CAP:
Read US/UK above! Ch 4 on hook size 6 mm / J/10 with Nepal and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc in ch-ring. READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc = 12 sc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION/GAUGE!
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 42 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in each of the first 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 9: * 1 sc in each of the first 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 54 sc.
ROUND 10: * 1 sc in each of the first 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 60 sc.
ROUND 11: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 66 sc.
ROUND 12: Work 1 sc in every sc while at the same time inc 0-2-6 sc evenly = 66-68-72 sc.
ROUND 13-17: 1 sc in every sc.
ROUND 18: Work 1 sc in every sc while at the same time dec 5-4-5 sc evenly = 61-64-67 sc - READ DECREASE TIP.

Continue with 1 sc in every sc until hat measures 16-17-18 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7".

BRIM:
Then work brim over the middle 14-16-16 sts at the front (i.e. in opposite side of beg of round) at follows:
ROW 1: Work 1 sc in every sc. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in each of the next 12-14-14 sc and 2 sc in last sc = 16-18-18 sc. Turn piece.
ROW 3: Work ch 1, 3 sc in first sc, 1 sc in every sc until last sc, 3 sc in last sc, 1 sl st in the next free sc from hat edge to fasten the brim for hat = 20-22-22 sc. Turn piece.
ROW 4: Work ch 1, 3 sc in first sc, 1 sc in every sc until last sc, 3 sc in last sc, 1 sl st in the next free sc from hat edge as on row 3 = 24-26-26 sc. Turn piece.
ROUND 5: Work ch 1, 1 sc in every sc over the entire brim and continue around the entire hat.
ROUND 6: Work REVERSE CROCHET – see explanation above, around the entire hat and the brim. Fasten off.

CROCHET FLOWER:
Ch 6 on hook size 6 mm / J/10 with cerise and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 2 (= first hdc), 2 hdc in ch-ring, * ch 5, 1 sc in last hdc made, 3 hdc in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with 5 ch and 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round = 6 ch-spaces with 3 hdc between each. Fasten off.
ROUND 2: Switch to red. Work 1 sc in the middle of the first 3 hdc on round, * 10 dc in ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in next hdc, skip 1 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off. Sew the flower to the side of the cap.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 24-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

Anaos 18.05.2020 - 14:00:

Bonjour, Je ne vois pas les différents modèles selon la taille ? Il n’y a qu’une seul modèle Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 15:49:

Bonjour Mme Anaos, ce modèle est décliné en 3 tailles, mais il va se crocheter de la même façon dans toutes les tailles jusqu'au 18ème tour. Bon crochet!

Liliane 02.02.2020 - 22:33:

En suivant vos explications pour la visière je n'obtiens pas le résultat de votre modèle. Afin de pouvoir achever cette casquette, vous est-il possible de m'adresser un complément d'information. Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement

DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 10:27:

Bonjour Liliane, l'idéel serait de montrer votre ouvrage à votre magasin (même en photo par mail), on pourra ainsi vous aider plus facilement. Vous pouvez également demander de l'aide sur le groupe DROPS Workshop en y publiant votre photo. Bon crochet!

Sembélie 06.12.2019 - 19:32:

Merci pour vos explications de ce super modèle. Bien expliqué pour une débutante qui regarde plutôt les tutos vidéo mais je sais tricoter avec des explications livres

Julia 10.07.2018 - 01:30:

Hej! Jag undrar vilken diameter mössan ska ha i storlek 54/58 efter varv 12? Med vänlig hälsning, Julia

DROPS Design 10.07.2018 kl. 09:57:

Hej Julia, du skall ha 13 fm på 10 cm. På varv 12 har du 72fm. 72/1,3=ca 55 cm i omkreds. God fornøjelse!

Julia 09.06.2018 - 20:13:

Hej! Jag undrar vilken garntjocklek jag ska använda? Att det står virknål nr 6 hjälper inte så mkt. Hur pass glest får maskorna bli? Jag virkar ganska hårt. Mvh Julia

DROPS Design 11.06.2018 kl. 17:56:

Hej, mössan virkas i DROPS Nepal, du kan även välja något annat garn från garngrupp C.

Michoud 23.03.2018 - 18:50:

Bonjour, pour la visière ça me semble étrange aussi en voyant la photo ça semble pas assez long et pas la bonne forme... L'arrondit se fait mais rien à voir avec la photo merci

DROPS Design 26.03.2018 kl. 10:40:

Bonjour Mme Michoud, vérifiez bien votre tension pour bien avoir la bonne forme - n'hésitez pas à rajouter un ou 2 rangs si vous la trouvez trop courte. Bon crochet!

Melanie 10.08.2017 - 09:52:

Danke für die Antwort, das hilft mir bei dem Schild allerdings nicht weiter. Beende ich die Arbeit nach 16cm und fange auf der Gegenüberliegenden Seit mit dem Schild an oder beginne ich das Schild am Rundenanfang?

DROPS Design 10.08.2017 kl. 11:06:

Liebe Melanie, Schirm wird auf der anderen Seite des Rd-Beginns angefangen. Wenn Sie diese "Naht" vermeiden wollen, schauen Sie mal ob Sie die Blume über diese Naht nähen können. Häkeln Sie zuerst die Blume und so entscheiden Sie, wie es am besten für Sie wird, Schirm zu häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Melanie 09.08.2017 - 12:49:

Hallo, habe diese Mütze nahezu problemlos gehäkelt, bis zu dem Teil mit dem Schirm... Ersteinmal verschiebt sich meine hintere Mittelnaht immer weiter nach rechts, was aber nicht weiter auffällt, mir aber komisch vorkommt. Habe nun 16cm gehäkelt und wie setzte ich den Schirm an? Sind die 14 mittleren Maschen auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite der "Naht", so das die Naht hinten ist? Muss ich bis dorthin Kettmaschen machen oder neu ansetzten?

DROPS Design 09.08.2017 kl. 12:53:

Liebe Melanie, diese Mittelnaht kann man nur vermeiden, wenn man spiralförmig in Runden häkelt, dh nach der letzten fM der Rd mit der zweiten Runde fortfahren und 1 fM in jede fM häkeln. Markieren Sie den Anfang der Runde und lassen Sie die Markierung der Arbeit folgen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Chrissy 02.08.2016 - 05:38:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Länge der Mütze. am Ende der Beschreibung steht:weiter mit 1fm in jede Familie bis die Mütze 17cm misst.Von wo aus gesehen 17 cm?von der Mitte der Mütze aus?

DROPS Design 03.08.2016 kl. 16:03:

Liebe Chrissy, die 17 cm werden ab Lm-Anschlag, also von der Mitte aus gemessen.

Chrissy 31.07.2016 - 19:03:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Länge der Mütze. Am Ende der Beschreibung steht :weiter mit 1fm in jede fm bis die Mütze 17cm misst.Von wo aus gesehen 17cm.von der Mitte aus?

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 24-16

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.