Melman by DROPS Design

Crochet giraffe in DROPS Safran or DROPS Paris

Tags: animals, toys,
DROPS design: Pattern no e-010-bn
Yarn group A and C or A + A
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SMALL:
Measurements: approx. 15 cm high x 9 cm long
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 11, strong yellow
50 g colour no 22, light brown
+ some black for eyes and horns

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 dc = 10 cm in width.
ACCESSORIES: Some cotton wool for filling.

LARGE:
Measurements: approx. 21 cm high x 13 cm long
Materials:
DROPS PARIS fra Garnstudio
50 g colour no 27, peach
50 g colour no 33, medium pink
+ some black for eyes and horns

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 17 dc = 10 cm in width.
ACCESSORIES: Some cotton wool for filling.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
FILLING TIP:
Gradually fill some cotton wool in the animal when working.

CROCHET TIP:
Beg every dc round with 1 ch (this does not replace first dc) and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
Turn every dc row with 1 ch - this ch does not replace first dc on row.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 sts tog.
This is done as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull thread through, insert hook in next st and pull thread through, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

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SMALL GIRAFFE:
Worked from the top of head, down the neck and along the body. Legs, tail, ears, horn and spots are worked separately and sew on at the end. READ FILLING TIP!

HEAD, NECK AND BODY:
Work 4 ch with strong yellow on hook size 3 mm and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 5 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 10 dc. Turn with 1 ch, then work back and forth in one.
ROW 3-7: Work 1 dc in every dc back and forth (= opening for snout, which is worked later).
ROUND 8-20: Work 1 dc in every dc in the round without finishing every round, then work up to the middle on top of neck.
ROUND 21: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 2 dc in each of the next 2 and 1 dc in each of the last 4 = 12 dc.
ROUND 22: Work 1 dc in each of the first 5 dc, 2 dc in each of the next 2 and 1 dc in each of the last 5 = 14 dc.
ROW 23: Work 1 dc in each of the first 12 dc, turn piece with 1 ch, now work back and forth in one for chest.
ROW 24 (WS): Skip the first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 25 (RS): Skip the first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 26 (WS): Skip the first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 27 (RS): Skip the first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 28 (WS): Skip the first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 29 (RS): Skip first dc, then work 4 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 30 (WS): Skip first dc, then work 6 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 31 (RS): Skip first dc, then work 8 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 32 (WS): Skip first dc, then work 10 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 33 (RS): Skip first dc, then work 12 dc, turn with 1 ch.
ROW 34 (WS): Skip first dc, then work 14 dc, turn with 1 ch. Now continue in the round again.
ROUND 35: Work dc around the entire opening - inc evenly so that there are 22 dc in total.
ROUND 36-45: Continue in the round with 10 rounds dc.
ROUND 46: Work dc, at the same time dec 4 dc evenly by working 2 and 2 dc tog – SEE DECREASE TIP = 18 dc.
ROUND 47: Work dc, at the same time dec 4 dc evenly by working 2 and 2 dc tog = 14 dc.
ROUND 48: Work dc, at the same time dec 4 dc evenly by working 2 and 2 dc tog = 10 dc.
ROUND 49: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 5 dc.
Cut the yarn, bast it around the opening, tighten tog and fasten.

SNOUT:
Work 14 dc with strong yellow around the opening at the front of head.
Insert 1 marker mid on top of head. Continue with 3 rounds with 1 dc in every dc while at the same time working the 2 dc mid on top of head tog = 11 dc. Switch to light brown. Continue with 1 round dc while at the same time working the 2 middle dc on top of head tog on every round = 10 dc. Then work 1 round where all dc are worked tog 2 by 2 = 5 dc, fasten off. Put some cotton wool in snout, baste the yarn end around the opening, tighten tog and fasten.

LEG:
Work 4 ch with light brown and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 9 dc, fasten off.
ROUND 3-8: Switch to strong yellow and work 1 dc in every dc in the round, fasten off.
Work a total of 4 legs like this. Fill some cotton wool in them and sew them to the underside of body.

TAIL:
Work 7 ch with light brown, then work 3 htr in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sl st in each of the last 5 ch, fasten off and sew the tail to the back of body so that it stands up.

EAR:
Work 4 ch with light brown, then 1 dtr in first ch, 3 ch and 1 sl st at the bottom of dtr, fasten off.
Work another ear and sew them on top of the head.

HORN:
Work 5 ch with black, then 1 htr in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the last 3 ch, fasten off.
Work another horn and sew them on top of the head, on the inside of ears.

SPOTS:
Work 4 ch with light brown and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work 6 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc, fasten off.
Work 5 spots in total and sew them to the top of giraffe's back.

Embroider eyes with black.
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LARGE GIRAFF:
Work as small giraffe, but on hook size 4 mm with Paris. Replace strong yellow with peach and replace light brown with medium pink.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 24-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

Caro 11.07.2019 - 23:20:

Liebes Drops Team, Ich verstehe die Anleitung leider ab der Reihe 8 nicht. Durch die Hin- und Rückrunden bis Reihe 7 habe eine Art Halbkreis. Wo werden die fM angesetzt und wenn die Runden nicht geschlossen werden sind dann wieder Hin- und Rückrunden gemeint? Vielen Dank für eure Hilfe.

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 08:39:

Liebe Caro, Sie häkeln jetzt 1 fM in jedem fM (= 10 fM pro Runde), ohne die Runde mit 1 kM zu schliessen, am Ende der Runde, einfach 1 fM in das ersten fM der Runde häkeln, eine Markierung können Sie hier zwischen den letzten und ersten Maschen der Runde anbringen. Es wird ein Loch entstehen (= Reihen 3 bis 7) hier wird man später die Schnauze häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Anna 27.02.2019 - 20:42:

Hallo, ich verstehe nicht so ganz, wie man die Reihen 29-34 häkeln soll. Wohin sollen die Festmaschen gesetzt werden? Ich würde mich sehr über eine Erklärung freuen.

DROPS Design 28.02.2019 kl. 09:31:

Liebe Anna, am Ende der Reihe 28,mit 1 Lm wenden, dann die nächste Festmasche überspringen und 1 Festmasche in jeder der nächsten 4 Maschen häkeln (= Reihe 29), mit 1 Luftmasche wenden, dann die nächste Masche überspringen, 1 Festmasche in jeder der nächsten 6 Maschen häkeln (= Reihe 30) und so weiter häkeln, bis Sie 14 Festmaschen gehäkelt haben. Nach 34. Reihe (= Rückreihe), wenden Sie mit 1 Luftmasche, dann wieder in Runden häkeln. Viel spaß beim häkeln!

Susana Rodríguez-Vida 04.12.2018 - 16:20:

Las instrucciones de las vueltas 8-20 del cuerpo no se entienden. Para que quede claro debería decir: "Trabajar en redondo los 10 p.b., pero sin hacer el p.bjs y la cadeneta de final de vuelta; como se trabajará en espiral, el inicio de cada vuelta se irá desplazando y la vuelta 20 acabará en el centro de la parte posterior del cuello (o sea, el lado opuesto a la abertura del hocico)".

Kristýna 12.10.2017 - 20:31:

Dobrý den Nerozumím řadám 23 - 34, resp. jak pak pokračovat dále. Z těchto řad mi vznikly dva spojené trojúhelníky, na ně pak navazuje tělo. Jak ale tyto trojúhelníky spojím? Děkuji moc za odpověď

Viky Fernandez 21.02.2017 - 16:26:

Como soy nueva en esto del ganchillo, no entiendo que significa trabajar en redondo sin terminar cada vuela (vuelta 8 a 20),como se hace?. Saludos

DROPS Design 27.02.2017 kl. 20:29:

Hola Vicky. En las vueltas 8-20 no terminamos las vueltas como se explica en el TIP PARA LA ELABORACIÓN DEL TRABAJO, sino que trabajamos como sigue: 1 punto bajo en el último punto bajo de la fila anterior, 1 punto bajo en el primer punto bajo de la fila anterior ( trabajo en el espiral).

Monica 14.07.2016 - 20:40:

Bellissimi tutti questi animaletti ... ma ci fate anche un cavallino?

DROPS Design 14.07.2016 kl. 20:46:

Buongiorno Monica. Inoltriamo volentieri la sua richiesta alla casa madre. Grazie e buon lavoro!

Nancy Verbist 14.05.2016 - 15:33:

Bonjour De 2 a 22 faut il fermer le cercle svp et après? ?? Merci par ce que je n'y arrive pas

DROPS Design 17.05.2016 kl. 09:15:

Bonjour Mme Verbist, on termine le tour 1 de la partie tête/cou/corps par 1 mc dans la 1ère ms (voir astuce crochet), à partir du 2ème tour, on ne ferme pas en rond, on tourne avec 1 ml et on crochète en rangs. À partir du tour 8 jusqu'au tour 20, on continue en rond en ms, sans fermer par une mc = crochetez la 1ère ms du tour dans la 1ère ms du début du tour précédent sans faire de mc. Bon crochet!

Fanchon 29.01.2016 - 17:33:

Je reprends donc pas à pas les explications !... J'ai refait à partir du rang 21 car je n'étais pas partie du milieu du dos .ok donc jusqu'au rang 34 mais après ??? continuer en rond et crocheter 35 crocheter tout autour de l'ouverture ???

DROPS Design 29.01.2016 kl. 17:35:

Bonjour Fanchon, à partir du rang 23 vous avez crocheté en rangs (allers et retours en tournant à la fin de chaque rang), au tour 35, crochetez maintenant 1 ms tout autour de cette ouverture en ajustant le nombre de mailles à 22 ms à la fin de ce tour. Continuez ensuite en rond. Bon crochet!

Fanchon 28.01.2016 - 19:17:

Bonsoir Je travaille avec bonheur,depuis plusieurs années, avec les modèles DROPS. Les explications sont habituellement claires MAIS là, avec la girafe (drops children 24-8), je coïnce !... Jusqu'au rang 20, pas de problème mais après... Il serait intéressant de faire un schéma pour ce modèle. J'ai essayé d'appliquer les conseils donnés dans la rubrique commentaire, mais j'en suis au rang 45 et ma girafe a vraiment une drôle d'allure. Merci à toute l'équipe

DROPS Design 29.01.2016 kl. 09:18:

Bonjour Fanchon, si vous suivez bien pas à pas les explications, votre girafe prendra forme. N'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS, ou adressez-vous au forum DROPS si besoin. Bon crochet!

Trotet Roselyne 29.05.2015 - 18:59:

Bonjour j'ai encore une question : que veux dire "à partir du milieu du haut du cou "pour moi le haut du cou c'est les premiers rangs voulez vous dire le bas du cou de la girafe juste avant le dos ? Cordialement

DROPS Design 30.05.2015 kl. 14:39:

Bonjour Mme Trotet, après le tour 20, continuez le tour jusqu'au milieu du cou, au dos de la girafe, et commencez les tours suivants à partir de là. Bon crochet!

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