DROPS / 141 / 36

Rachel by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with cable pockets in ”Merino Extra Fine” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL

  • Rachel / DROPS 141-36 - Knitted DROPS jacket with cable pockets in ”Merino Extra Fine” or Belle. Size: S - XXXL
  • Rachel / DROPS 141-36 - Knitted DROPS jacket with cable pockets in ”Merino Extra Fine” or Belle. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern no me-052
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
Colour no 26, pistachio:
500-550-600-650-750-850 g

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
Colour no 10, moss green:
450-500-550-600-700-750 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm – for edges in garter st.
DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTONS NO 534: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2 for pattern on pockets. Diagrams show all rows seen from RS.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 86-94-102-114-126-138 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Belle. Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm, dec 1 st in each side. Repeat dec every 4 cm 3 more times = 78-86-94-106-118-130 sts. When piece measures 20-20-21-21-22-22 cm, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 4 cm 3 more times = 86-94-102-114-126-138 sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, cast off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 0-0-1-1-1-1 time, 3 sts 1-1-0-1-2-3 times, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-3-3 times and 1 st 1-2-2-2-3-4 times = 78-80-82-84-88-92 sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, cast off the middle 30-30-32-32-34-34 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 2 sts on next row from neck = 22-23-23-24-25-27 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 49-53-57-63-69-75 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side and 6 band sts in garter st towards mid front) on needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Belle. Work 8 rows in garter st. Switch to needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st but with 1 edge st in the side and 6 band sts towards mid front in garter st until finished measurements. When piece measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm, beg dec in the side as on back piece = 45-49-53-59-65-71 sts. When piece measures 20-20-21-21-22-22 cm, beg inc in the side as on back piece = 49-53-57-63-69-75 sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 45-46-47-48-50-52 sts. When piece measures 47-49-51-52-54-56 cm, slip the outermost 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck (slip them on the stitch holder without working them first). Then cast off at beg of every row from neck: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3 times = 22-23-23-24-25-27 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed. In addition cast off for BUTTONHOLES on band from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 11, 20, 29 and 38 cm
SIZE M: 2, 11, 21, 30 and 40 cm
SIZE L: 2, 11, 19, 27, 35 and 43 cm.
SIZE XL: 3, 12, 20, 28, 36 and 44 cm.
SIZE XXL: 3, 12, 20, 29, 37 and 46 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm.
Also cast off for 1 buttonhole on neck edge.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 48-50-52-54-56-60 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Belle. Work 6 rows in garter st. Switch to needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 10-8-10-10-8-8 cm, inc 1 st in each side.
Repeat inc every 3-3-2½-2-2-2 cm 12-13-14-16-17-17 more times = 74-78-82-88-92-96 sts. When piece measures 50-49-48-47-46-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 2-3-5-6-7-9 times and then 2 sts in each side until piece measures 56 cm. Then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side, cast off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 57 cm.

POCKET:
Cast on 27-27-27-29-29-29 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Belle. Work 2 ridges (1st row = RS). Switch to needle size 4 mm. Work next row as follows (from RS): 2 sts in garter st, * K 1, K 2 in each of the next 2 sts, K 1, P 3-3-3-4-4-4, K 1, K 2 in each of the next 2 sts, K 1 *, P 1, repeat from *-* one more time, finish with 2 sts in garter st = 35-35-35-37-37-37 sts. Work K over K and P over P with 2 sts in garter st in each side. Continue as follows: 2 sts in garter st, diagram A.1, P 3-3-3-4-4-4, diagram A.1, P 1, diagram A.2, P 3-3-3-4-4-4, diagram A.2 and 2 sts in garter st. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm vertically - finish after 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows (from RS): K 2, * K 1, K 2 tog, K 2 tog, K 1, P 3-3-3-4-4-4, K 1, K 2 tog, K 2 tog, K 1 *, P 1, repeat from *-* one more time, finish with K 2 = 27-27-27-29-29-29 sts. Switch to needle size 3.5 mm. Then work 2 ridges over all sts (1st row = WS), then cast off with K from WS. Pocket measures approx. 11-11-12-12-13-13 cm.
Knit another pocket.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.
NECK EDGE: Knit up approx. 90 to 105 sts around the neck incl sts on stitch holders at the front on circular needle size 3.5 mm. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS while at the same time casting off for 1 buttonhole over the other holes on band. K another 4 rows, then cast off with K from RS.
Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.
Sew on pockets approx. 4-5-5-6-6-6 cm from bottom edge and 7-8-9-10-11-12 cm from mid front.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 141-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Margaret Horan 18.01.2021 - 18:28:

When casting off for sleeve cap(I'm doing 2nd size) itsays cast off 4 once - does this mean that the two sides will not be symmetrical?

user icon DROPS Design 19.01.2021 kl. 07:07:

Dear Mrs Horan, they will be symetrical since you have to cast off at the beginning of every row in each side the same number of stitches, ie both from right side and from wrong side. Happy knitting!

country flag Hazel 20.03.2019 - 19:30:

Another question please. For the bust measurement and hips, I certainly have to do the XL but can I take the "waist" decreases for the lower size as my measurements are smaller??? Will the knitting be off centre??? This will be for my second cardigan. I haven't finished it yet, but so far, it's looking rather good.

user icon DROPS Design 21.03.2019 kl. 16:19:

Dear Hazel, feel free to adjust the pattern to your own measurements, should you need any individual assistance, you are welcome to contact the store where you bought the yarn - even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

country flag Hazel 20.03.2019 - 19:27:

So far, so good, except for the buttonholes which, for me, are on the "wrong" side according to your pattern, unless I misunderstood it. If you follow the instructions, the "left side" is actually the "right" side or have I misread something somewhere? It doesn't matter so much because now I have the buttonholes the reverse side to what I'm used to, and will change it next time. Do you have any comments on this???

user icon DROPS Design 21.03.2019 kl. 10:06:

Dear Hazel, buttonholes are on the front band sts on the right front piece - you work the right front piece reversed / mirrored, ie from RS you will start with 6 front band sts (towards mid front) and finish with 1 edge st (towards back piece). So that the buttonholes should be as shown on the picture. Happy knitting!

country flag Krista De Backer 06.09.2018 - 15:20:

Is de kleur van het vest zeker pistache nr. 26. Lijkt mij kleur nr. 15 licht grijsgroen? Zou graag zeker zijn van de kleur. Groetjes

user icon DROPS Design 07.09.2018 kl. 18:01:

Dag Krista, Ja, het is pistache hoor. Door de lichtwerking kan het er altijd ietsje anders uitzien met fotografie (en dat geldt overigens ook voor de garensamples op de site)

Kerstin Winchester 01.04.2018 - 13:23:

According to the pattern on the pocket, after I have increased st. to 35 on the right side, do. I start the cable pattern next row which is the wrong side? Also, do I knit and purl on every wrong side and do the cable pattern only on the right side? Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 03.04.2018 kl. 08:45:

Dear Mrs Winchester, on next row after increasing work 1 row from WS with K over K andn P over P and 2 sts in garter st in each side. Then start cable pattern on next row from RS. Happy knitting!

country flag Kerstin Winchester 14.03.2018 - 15:59:

How do I make the steve shorter, like 54 cm instead of 57?

user icon DROPS Design 14.03.2018 kl. 16:03:

Dear Mrs Winchester, you will have to start the dec for sleeve cap 3 cm earlier, adjust so that all increase have been done, and bind off for sleeve cap as described, binding off 2 sts until sleeve measures 53 cm and then finish binding off 3 sts on each side and then all sts. Happy knitting!

country flag Annie Gärtner 17.12.2015 - 19:27:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas où et pourquoi il faut mettre des mailles en attente pour l'encolure des devants. Merci pour votre réponse Annie

user icon DROPS Design 18.12.2015 kl. 09:56:

Bonjour Mme Gartner, ce sont les 11-13 premières m côté encolure que l'on met en attente soit 6 m de bordure + 5-7 m jersey. On rabat ensuite les mailles de l'encolure: 1x3m, 3x2 m et 3x1 m tous les 2 rangs. Quand on tricote le col, on reprend les mailles en attente et on relève les mailles autour de l'encolure. Bon tricot!

country flag Diana 21.02.2014 - 08:52:

Habe diese Jacke in schwarz gestrickt, einfach herrlich sie gerhört zu meinen absoluten Lieblingsstücken!

country flag Ellen 16.02.2014 - 18:57:

Waar kan ik een instructie vinden voor het juist naaien van de zakken op het vest? Met dank!

user icon DROPS Design 17.02.2014 kl. 11:32:

Beste Ellen. We hebben helaas (nog) geen video van het vastnaaien van de zakken. Je kan eventueel kijken op YouTube.

country flag Rita Van Rhee 11.03.2013 - 16:18:

Ik wil dit vest breien voor maat 44, welke maat moet ik dan nemen, xl of xxl.

user icon DROPS Design 12.03.2013 kl. 21:29:

Kijk onderaan het patroon. Hier vind je de maattekening met alle afmetingen in cm per maat. Je kan dan deze vergelijken met je eigen afmetingen en de juiste maat kiezen. Veel plezier!

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