DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Paris weekend

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan and ¾ sleeves in ”Alpaca Bouclé”, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 142-26
DROPS design: Pattern no ab-028
Yarn group C
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour no 0602, brown

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - for edges in garter st.
DROPS WOOD BUTTON COCONUT, NO 515: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

BUTTONHOLES:
Cast off for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from the neck and down):
SIZE S: 2, 11, 21, 30 and 40 cm
SIZE M: 2, 12, 22, 32 and 42 cm
SIZE L: 2, 12, 23, 33 and 44 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 19, 28, 37 and 46 cm.
SIZE XXL: 2, 12, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show pattern from RS.

RAGLAN:
Beg 6 sts before marker: Make 2 YO on needle, work diagram A.1/A.2 (marker is in the middle of repetition), make 2 YO on needle. On next row slip one of the 2 YO before and after A.1/A.2 off the needle and work the other YO in stocking st (i.e. P from WS).

INCREASE TIP (applies to body):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.
--------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from neck and down.

YOKE:
LOOSELY cast on 72-72-76-76-83-83 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Alpaca Bouclé. Work 6 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS). Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME work an elevation at the back of neck as follows (1st row = RS): Work until 16-16-18-18-19-19 sts remain, turn, tighten thread and work until 16-16-18-18-19-19 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten thread and work until 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts remain, turn, tighten thread and work until 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten thread and work until 28-28-30-30-33-33 sts remain, turn, tighten thread and work until 28-28-30-30-33-33 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten thread and work the rest of row. Now insert 4 markers in the piece for raglan as follows (insert the markers in the piece without working the row): Insert 1st marker after 16-16-17-17-19-19 sts (= front piece), insert 2nd marker after 10-10-10-10-10-10 sts (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker after 20-20-22-22-25-25 sts (= back piece) and insert 4th marker after 10-10-10-10-10-10 sts (= sleeve). 16-16-17-17-19-19 sts remain on needle after last marker on front piece.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
P 1 row from WS (work bands in garter st), AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sts on each side of the 4 markers by working 2 sts in each of the 2 sts on each side of all 4 markers (= 16 sts inc) = 88-88-92-92-99-99 sts.
Then work in stocking st with 6 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front (1st row = RS) – AT THE SAME TIME work a cable according to diagram A.1 over 1st and 3rd marker and a cable according to diagram A.2 over 2nd and 4th marker (markers are in the middle of each cable) - Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS, beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above. NOTE: The inc on body and sleeves are uneven. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
INC AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES: Beg on 1st row from RS and inc on every other row (i.e. every row from RS) a total of 31-33-34-36-37-38 times.
INC AS FOLLOWS ON BODY: Beg on 1st row from RS and inc every other row (i.e. every row from RS) a total of 13-17-22-28-33-38 times and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) a total of 9-8-6-4-2-0 times = 300-320-340-364-387-403 sts. Inc for raglan are now done. Work 1 row from WS as before. Then work 1 row from RS as before while AT THE SAME TIME K sts in cable in diagram A.1 tog 2 by 2 and K sts in cable in diagram A.2 twisted tog 2 by 2 (= 4 sts dec per cable) = 284-304-324-348-371-387 sts remain on needle. Work next row as follows from WS: Work until 1st marker, slip the 72-76-78-82-84-86 sts between 1st and 2nd marker on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts over stitch holder, work until 3rd marker, slip the 72-76-78-82-84-86 sts between 3rd and 4th marker on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts over stitch holder and work the rest of row = 156-168-184-204-223-235 sts on needle.

BODY:
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue back and forth in stocking st and 6 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts in each side. When piece measures 4-4-5-5-5-6 cm, inc 1 st on each side of markers in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 8-8-10-10-11-12 cm = 164-176-192-212-231-243 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 9-9-11-11-12-13 cm (piece measures approx. 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm from shoulder and down). Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work in garter st back and forth for 6 cm, then LOOSELY cast off. Piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip sts from one stitch holder on a short circular needle size 5 mm and cast in addition on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts under sleeve = 80-84-86-92-94-96 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stocking st in the round until sleeve measures 9-8-8-7-6-6 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width and longer sleeve cap). Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work in garter st in the round for 6 cm, then LOOSELY cast off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.



Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 142-26

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (70)

country flag Betty wrote:

Danke für die Antwort, aber ich habe nut zwei Zöpfe und nicht vier. Wo soll ich die anderen 8 Maschen denn abnehmen? Ich verstehe Sie nicht - danke

03.01.2022 - 10:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Betty, es sind insgesamt 4 Zöpfe, 1 für jede Raglan-Linie: A.1 über der 1. Markierung, A.2 über der 2. Markierung, A.1 über der 3. Markierung und A.2 über der 4. Markierung. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

03.01.2022 - 11:59

country flag Betty wrote:

Hallo nochmal, bitte entschuldigen Sie, ich glaub ich habe meine Frage falsch vormuliert. In der Jacke stricke ich rechts und links ein Zopf (A1 und A2). Ich habe jetzt 340 Maschen auf der Nadel und soll die Maschen im Zopf fortlaufend 2 zusammen stricken (4 Maschen pro Zopf abgenommen) dann hätte ich in der ganzen Reihe 8 Maschen abgenommen und würde auf 332 Maschen kommen und nicht auf 324 Maschen. bitte um Hilfe :) Danke Betty

01.01.2022 - 23:35

country flag Betty wrote:

Hallo, ich habe jetzt 340 Maschen auf der Nadel (Größe L). Habe ich richtig verstanden, dass ich jetzt über A1 und A2 NUR im Zopf 2 M zusammenstricken soll..... dann hätte ich 4M pro Zopf abgenommen (4M+4M=8 M abgenommen) da komme ich aber nicht auf 324 sondern 332. Wie komme ich auf die 324M?

30.12.2021 - 14:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Betty, 4 Maschen werden in jedem Zopf abgenommen: 4 Maschen in jedem A.1 und 4 Maschen in jedem A.2 = 340 Maschen - (4 Maschen x 4 Diagramme/Zöpfe) = 340-16=324 Maschen übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.01.2022 - 10:10

country flag Inez wrote:

Patroon 142-26 eerste gedeelte van patroon prima. ik heb nu 92 st. op de naald (mt. XL) voor de raglan moet ik 36x 8st meerderen. 36x8 = 288st plus de 92 op de nld = 380 st. terwijl patroon aangeeft dat ik 364 st. zou hebben. wanneer en waar vinden de lijf meerderingen plaats?

05.10.2021 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Inez,

Je mindert voor de raglan verschillend op de mouwen en het lijf. Op de mouwen meerder je 36 keer om de naald. Op het lijf meerder je 28 keer om de naald en daarna 4 keer elke naald, dus 32 keer in totaal op het lijf, daarmee kom je op 36 x 4 + 32 x 4 = 272 meerderingen, plus 92 steken die je al had = 364 steken.

12.10.2021 - 10:33

country flag Lorna Strombeck wrote:

Please help. Following the insertion of the markers I have increase to 92 stitches (L). A1 and A2, as I understand abut; 4 purl between Al and A2. However, the above increase changes this configuration to two extra stitches between the markers for the A1/A2 raglan. In addition, the pattern initially requires 2YO RS incr. before and after the raglan, progressively creating increment stitches between A1 and A2 pattern. Where am I going wrong? Ps, I've knitted X complex Gants successfully XX

08.03.2021 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Strombeck, the stitches increased at the markers is to avoid that the cables A.1/A.2 will tighten piece, on next row from RS after the increased sts, work A.1/A.2 over the stitches at the markers: 6 sts of diagram before marker + 6 sts of diagram after marker and at the same time increase for the raglan before/after diagrams. In L you inc on every 2nd row 34 times on each sleeve and 22 times on every 2nd row + 6 times on every 4th row on body, this means you inc first 8 sts then alternately 4 and 8 sts (when you inc on every 2nd row for sleeves but every 4th row on body). Happy knitting!

09.03.2021 - 07:39

country flag Elisabeth Gustavsson wrote:

Den här modellen stickas ju med rundsticka nu undrar jag hur räknar jag fram maskantal och mått om jag stickar med vanliga stickor Modellen jag frågade om igår har jag fått svar på men den var ju mycket enklare att räkna fram.

28.01.2021 - 16:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Elisabeth. Om du ser i oppskriften etter fornøyningen, ser du maskeantallet som er til forstykkene, ermene og bakstykket. Da skal du regne det ut selv ut ifra den størrelsen du skal strikke. God Fornøyelse!

01.02.2021 - 12:00

country flag Pascale wrote:

Bonjour Je souhaite adapter ce modèle pour une taille 4XL. Comment se calcule le nombre de mailles à ajouter pour modifier la taille ? Merci

31.12.2020 - 12:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascale, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, vous pouvez vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS qui saura vous conseiller et vous renseigner. Bon tricot!

31.12.2020 - 18:08

country flag Ùna wrote:

My problem with this pattern is where I actually knit the cable panels. The instructions say that the markers are in the middle of each cable. I find this confusing. Could you not tell me how many stitches to knit before I start the cables. I am an experienced knitter but this leaves me confused. Please tell me exactly where the cables should be placed, and where the raglan increases are in relation to the cable panels.

23.10.2020 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ùna, work until 6 sts remain before marker and work the diagram over the next 12 stitches (= 6 sts before marker + 6 sts after marker). Repeat on each marker. This means you wil work: first 6 sts A.1/A.2, marker, last 6 sts A.1/A.2. You will then increase before/after the cable panels/the diagram, but the raglan increases are worked on a different rythm on body and sleeves, you will sometimes increase 8 sts (= everywhere) or only 4 sts (only sleeves or only body) - see size. Hope this helps. Happy knititng!

26.10.2020 - 07:37

country flag Irmgard Weberberger wrote:

Habe die 4Markierungen gesetzt, 1. Nach 16 Maschen,2. nach10 Maschen,3.nach 20Maschen und 4. nach 10 Maschen,bleiben 16 Maschen übrig. Nun beginne ich mit dem Zopfmuster wie beschrieben 6Maschen vor der Markierung .Zopf ist in der Mitte der Markierung,2Umschlage und nun habe ich nur noch 4 Maschen vor der 2.Markierung. Also es geht sich nicht aus,dass der zweite Zopf in der Mitte der Markierung ist. Was mache ich falsch? Bitte um ihre Hilfe

19.09.2020 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Weberberger, nachdem Sie die Markierungen eingesetzt haben, stricken Sie eine Rückreihe mit Zunahmen, dann haben Sie: 18 M bis 1. Mark, 14 M bis 2. Mark, 24 M bis 3. Mark, 14 M bis 4. Mark und 18 M bleiben. Dann stricken Sie (Hinreihe): 6 Blendemaschen, 6 M glatt (Vorderteil) A.1 (= 12 M), 2 M glatt (Ärmel), A.2 (= 12 M), 12 M glatt (Rückenteil), A.1 (12 M), 2 M glatt (Ärmel), A.2 (12 M), 6 M, 6 Bldenmaschen (Vorderteil). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.09.2020 - 09:02

country flag Greta wrote:

I have started 'weekend in Paris'. It's the increase 6 stitches before the raglan a 'body' increase? I understand that for 25 rows both raglan and body are increased on r side rows and then the Reagan continues in the same way but the body on 4th row. Are the fronts the body? What about the back?

24.10.2019 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Greta, before working the first raglan increase you increase a total of 16 sts = 2 sts on each side of each of the 4 markers (= 4 sts at each marker). Then work with A.1/A.2 (raglan line) and increase for raglan in a differrent rythm on sleeves (2 sts on each sleeve) and on body (= back piece = 2 sts, front piece: 1 st on each front piece) depending on the size, ie you will first increase 8 sts (= sleeves + body) on every 2nd row, then increase 4 sts on every 2nd row (sleeve only) and 8 sts on every 4th row (sleeves + body). Happy knitting!

25.10.2019 - 09:08