DROPS / 142 / 30

Russian Winter by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke in ”Eskimo” or "Andes". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-422
Yarn group E
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour no 47m, light beige
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour no 01, off white
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour no 50, dark rose
50 g for all sizes in colour no 09, old pink

Or use:
Materials: DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
600-600-700-700-800-900 g colour no 0619, beige
100-100-200-200-200-200 g colour no 0100, off white
100-100-200-200-200-200 g colour no 4090, heather
100 g for all sizes in colour no 4300, old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 40 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show pattern from RS. Pattern is worked in stocking st.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 116-128-140-152-164-176 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with light beige. Switch to off white, work rib = K 2/P 2 for 7 cm. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and K 1 round while at the same time dec 20 sts evenly = 96-108-120-132-144-156 sts. Insert a marker in first st at beg of round and a marker in the 49th-55th-61st-67th-73rd-79th st – these marks the sides. Work in stocking st and according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stocking st with light beige. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, work diagram A.2. When A.2 has been worked, work 1 round with light beige while at the same time casting off 7 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. st with marker + 3 sts on each side of this st) = 82-94-106-118-130-142 sts remain on needle. Now piece measures approx. 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 28-28-32-32-36-36 sts on double pointed needles size 7 mm with light beige. Switch to off white, work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 7 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 8 mm. Work in stocking st and diagram A.1, then continue with light beige and in stocking st. Insert a marker in first st at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). When piece measures 14 cm, inc 1 st on each side of st with marker, repeat inc every 8-8-6-6-5-5 cm 3-3-4-4-5-5 more times = 36-36-42-42-48-48 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 35 cm, work A.2 - work the inc sts in pattern. After A.2, work 1 round with light beige while at the same time casting off 7 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. st with marker + 3 sts on each side of this st) = 29-29-35-35-41-41 sts remain on needle. The piece now measures approx. 43 cm in all sizes. Knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 8 mm as body = 140-152-176-188-212-224 sts. Insert a marker in st mid back – NOW ROUND BEG HERE! Work 1 round with light beige while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 140-160-180-180-200-220. Work 0-1-0-1-0-1 cm in stocking st with light beige. Then continue to work and dec according to A.3 - work up to arrow for your size = 70-80-90-90-90-99 sts. Work 1 round while at the same time dec 10-20-26-26-22-31 sts evenly = 60-60-64-64-68-68 sts. Then work an elevation in the back as follows: K 8 sts past st with marker mid back, turn and P 17 sts back, turn and K 25 sts, turn and P 33 sts, turn and K 41 sts, turn and P 49 sts. Turn and work 1 round until mid back.

Switch to short circular needle size 7 mm and work rib = K 2/P 2 until neck measures 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm. Loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.

Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.


= K 2 tog
= light beige
= off white
= old pink
= dark rose

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 142-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (79)

Manuela 04.09.2020 - 10:08:

Buongiorno, mi piacerebbe molto realizzare questo bellissimo modello, ma vorrei farlo con lana più sottile, da lavorare con ferri 4,5. Come posso fare poi con i disegni, che ovviamente su un numero di maglie minori risulterebbero diversi...? Il resto posso "tradurlo", ma il disegno non so come farlo... grazie infinite

DROPS Design 04.09.2020 kl. 11:21:

Buongiorno Manuela. Deve riuscire ad aggiustare il numero delle maglie in modo da poter lavorare ripetizioni intere dei diagrammi. P.es sullo sprone, quando lavorerà il diagramma A3, deve avere un numero di maglie divisibile per 20. Analogamente per gli altri diagrammi. Buon lavoro!

Birgit 20.07.2020 - 08:50:

Ik heb van de lichte roze 2 x meer nodig dan van de donker roze in de Andes wol, lijkt mij niet te kloppen!?

DROPS Design 23.07.2020 kl. 10:27:

Dag Birgit,

Van oudroze 100 gram en heidekruid 100 gram in de 2 kleinste maten. In de andere maten 200 gram heidekruid en 100 gram oudroze. Heidekruid is de donkerroze kleur.

Birgit 19.07.2020 - 21:12:

Ik wil dit model gaan breien maar ik krijg de kleuren met de Andes wol niet goed bij elkaar. De oudroze 4300 lijkt zo donker en de 4090 heidekruid bestaat niet (meer)

DROPS Design 20.07.2020 kl. 08:31:

Dag Birgit,

Je zou rozenkwarts (4276) van DROPS Andes kunnen nemen, ik denk dat die het beste in de buurt komt.

Louis 16.12.2019 - 12:15:

Ich hatte nicht mit der Nadelgröße 7.00mm, sondern mit SIZE 7 (UK-Size, bzw. die Size 7, welche beim Drops-Nadelset angegeben ist) gestrickt (da in der dt. Anleitung NR 7 steht - und nicht 7.00mm). Bitte in den Anleitungen abändern - für Anfänger ist das leider nicht verständlich. Ich gehe davon aus das US Size mit US+Zahl, UK nur mit der Zahl und Europäische mit Zahl.00mm / Zahl.50mm angegeben ist. Das ist leider nicht eindeutig beschrieben.

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 19:54:

Die Nadelstärken-Angaben in unseren Anleitungen beziehen sich immer auf die Millimeter, da dies im Deutschen die allgemein übliche und verbreitere Angabe ist, auch ohne dass explizit "mm" dahinter steht. Wäre es die in UK gebräuchliche Stärke, würde hier bei uns im deutschsprachigen Raum ausdrücklich "UK" davor stehen, um Missverständnisse zu vermeiden. Sie können auch stets die deutsche Anleitung mit der englischen abgleichen und daraus den Rückschluss ziehen, dass es sich um die mm-Angabe handelt, wenn Sie sich nicht ganz sicher sind. Weiterhin viel Spaß und Erfolg mit unseren Anleitungen!

Louis 14.12.2019 - 18:35:

Liebes Drops-Team, Ich haben den Pulli als mein erstes Strickprojekt überhaupt gestrickt. Bei der Nadelstärke steht NR 7 Bzw. NR 8 (Start 7.00 mm / 8.00 mm) - entsprechend hatte ich dies als UK Size gedeutet und hatte Extra Drops Nadeln bestellt. Nun ist der Pulli deutlich zu eng. Eine korrekte Beschreibung wäre zumindest für Strickanfänger hilfreich gewesen. Nun ist das Garn und sehr sehr sehr viele Stunden für die Tonne - eine sehr sehr enttäuschende Erfahrung...

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 08:05:

Lieber Louis, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? dh 11 Maschen x 15 Reihen glatt gestrickt mit den grösseren Nadlen (= Nr 8 = 8 mm) = 10 x 10 cm. Hier lesen Sie mehr über die Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

DELANGLE Françoise 27.11.2019 - 10:47:

Bonjour, Les mesures de ce pull me semblent étranges. Je veux faire ce pull pour ma petite fille qui n'est pas menue, et qui en pull du commerce prend du L, or quand on se réfère aux mesures de votre croquis il faudrait que je lui tricote du S, ce qui me semble impossible. Je vais aller dans la boutique "l'Atelier" pour acheter la laine, je pourrai également demander des conseils. Merci d'avance pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 27.11.2019 kl. 11:37:

Bonjour Mme Delangle, mesurez un pull qui lui va et dont elle aime la forme, et comparez-les aux mesures du schéma; choisissez la taille la plus appropriée en fonction du rendu voulu. Vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur les tailles et le schéma des mesures. Bon tricot!

Assa 22.11.2019 - 13:18:

Liebes Drops Team, bei diesem Modell möchte ich keine verkürzten Reihen stricken. Muss ich etwas für den weiteren Verlauf beachten? Oder muss man diese Verkürzten Reihen stricken? LG Assa

DROPS Design 22.11.2019 kl. 13:26:

Liebe Assa, wenn Sie keine Erhöhung für den Halsausschnit stricken möchten, können Sie sie einfach nicht stricken, und direkt den Hals stricken (Halsausschnitt wird dann gleich am Vorder- bzw Rückentil sein). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Cristina 13.02.2019 - 09:22:

Grazie per avermi risposto in così breve tempo, siete stati gentilissimi !

Cristina 13.02.2019 - 08:49:

Buongiorno, premetto che sono una principiante: sto intrecciando le maglie per gli scalfi, al primo marcapunto ho intrecciato le prime 4 m. poi ho intrecciato 7 m. ed ora non so come intrecciare le 3 finali ! Devo tagliare il filo ? Grazie

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 08:57:

Buongiorno Cristina. Potrebbe iniziare alla fine del giro precedente, lavorando in questo modo: lavora finché non rimangono 3 maglie alla fine del giro, intreccia queste 3 maglie, la maglia con il segno e le 3 maglie successive, arriva al secondo segno e intreccia le 7 maglie e poi prosegue sulle maglie rimaste. Buon lavoro!

Maria Dolores Lopez 08.02.2019 - 20:31:

Hola, ¿para una talla L cuantos ovillos necesito?

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 20:01:

Hola Maria Dolores. Para la talla L necesitas de calidad de Eskimo: beige claro - 12, blanco hueso - 2 , rosa oscuro - 2 , borgoña claro - 1, y de la calidad Andes: beige - 7, blanco hueso - 2, brezo - 2, rosado antiguo - 1 ovillo.

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