DROPS Extra / 0-852

DROPS Extra 0-852 by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Symphony”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ww-070
Yarn group D
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS SYMPHONY from Garnstudio
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour no 17, grey brown

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 14 sts x 19 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 6 mm - for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Symphony DROPS Symphony
65% Wool, 35% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 116-132-144-160-184-196 sts on circular needle size 6 mm with Symphony. P 1 row from WS, then work as follows - from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, K 2, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Work rib like this for 8 cm. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. K 1 row from RS while at the same time dec 10-14-14-18-18-18 sts evenly = 106-118-130-142-166-178 sts. P 1 row from WS, work next row as follows - from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, K 1, diagram A.1 over the next 102-114-126-138-162-174 sts, and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue to work like this until piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm. Now work as follows - from RS: Work 20-23-26-29-35-38 sts as before, cast off the next 6 sts, work 54-60-66-72-84-90 sts as before, cast off the next 6 sts, work 20-23-26-29-35-38 sts as before. Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 54-60-66-72-84-90 sts. Continue diagram A.1 as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows – the sts the do not fit one whole or one half repetition of diagram A.1 are worked in stocking st: 2 sts 1-2-2-3-4-5 times and 1 st 0-1-1-2-3-4 times = 50-50-56-56-62-62 sts. Continue diagram A.1 with 1 st in stocking st in each side until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm, now cast off the middle 16 sts for neck = 17-17-20-20-23-23 sts remain on each shoulder. Work until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 20-23-26-29-35-38 sts. Continue pattern as before. Cast off for armhole as on back piece – the sts that do not fit one whole or one half repetition of diagram A.1 are worked in stocking st = 18-18-21-21-24-24 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue pattern until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-40-40-40-44-44 sts on double pointed needles size 6 mm with Symphony. Work rib until piece measures 8 cm. K 1 row while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly = 36-36-36-36-40-40 sts. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. Work according to diagram A.1, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker, repeat inc every 5½-4-3½-3-2½-2 cm 6-8-9-11-11-13 more times = 50-54-56-60-64-68 sts - work the inc sts in diagram A.1. When piece measures 47-47-46-45-43-42 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (3 sts on each side of marker), piece is worked back and forth. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 1 time, 2 sts until piece measures 55-56-55-56-54-55 cm, then cast off 3 sts in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-57-56-57-55-56 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves.

BAND:
Knit up 252-260-264-272-276-284 sts on circular needle size 6 mm, up along right front piece, in the back of neck and down along left front piece. K 1 row. Then work as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, K 2 *, P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 sts in garter st. Insert 2 markers in the piece at each shoulder. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st in every P-section between markers seen from RS, now continue with P 3, K 2. Cast off when band measures 12 cm.

BELT:
Cast on 8 sts on needle size 7 mm with Symphony. Work in garter st back and forth until piece measures approx. 150-200 cm. Cast off.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= 2 YO between 2 sts, on next row, work only one YO, slip the other YO off the needle
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-852) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Sarah 05.06.2019 - 08:40:

Grüezi! Ich bin beim Rumpfteil, Schritt "Dann die Hin-R wie folgt stricken: 20-23-26-29-35-38 M wie gehabt, die nächsten 6 M abk, 54-60-66-72-84-90 M wie gehabt, die nächsten 6 M abk und wieder 20-23-26-29-35-38 M wie gehabt. ". Wenn ich die ersten 20 M wie gehabt stricke, käme nach Muster zuletzt ein doppelter Umschlag. Ohne diesen hätte ich nur 19 M auf der Nadel. Ich wundere mich sehr über einen doppelten Umschlag an einer Kante, stimmt das wirklich?

DROPS Design 05.06.2019 kl. 10:00:

Liebe Sarah, Sie können die letzten Maschen einfach lieber glatt stricken (dh 1 Lochmuster weniger stricken), bei den nächsten Reihen werden die Maschen für die Armlöcher abgekettet/abgenommen und dabei werden die M, die weder in einen halben noch in einen ganzen Rapport von A.1 aufgehen, in glatt re gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Dsev 30.09.2018 - 00:41:

Bonjour, Merci pour ce beau modèle que vous mettez à notre disposition. Concernant l'arrondi de la manche.. J'aimerais connaître le nombre de mailles restantes à rabattre . Merci de votre disponibilité.

DROPS Design 01.10.2018 kl. 10:04:

Bonjour Mme Dsev, le nombre de mailles à la fin de la manche va dépendre de votre tension en hauteur, rabattez de chaque côté: 2 fois 2 m, 1 fois 1 m, puis rabattez 2 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 55-56-55-56-54-55 cm, puis rabattez 3 m de chaque côté. La manche doit mesurer environ 56-57-56-57-55-56 cm, rabattez alors les mailles restantes. Bon tricot!

Siw Anita 27.01.2018 - 23:11:

I mønsteret, står det to kast, og strikk det ene, og slipp det andre, ja, det forstår jeg, men videoen viser ett kast, og det strikkes på på vranga. Hva skal jeg forholde meg til?

DROPS Design 30.01.2018 kl. 10:31:

Hei Siw Anita. Denne videoen viser bare 1 kast, noe som er feil, (vi vil lage en ny video som blir riktig så fort som mulig). Du kan i mellomtiden ta en titt på video: Hvordan strikke et dobbelt kast slik at du får et stort hull. Her viser vi et dobbelt kast fra retten og der det fra vrangen strikkes det kun det ene kastet, mens det andre kastet slippes med. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på feilen i videoen. God Fornøyelse!

Willeke De Boer 20.09.2017 - 15:25:

Er wordt in het patroon bij de mouw gesproken over afkanten en minderen bij de mouwkop. M.i. Is dit niet juist. Het gaat om afkanten en minderen onderaan de mouw, bij de oksel. Verder een prachtig patroon!

Wendy 11.01.2017 - 22:10:

If this pattern has a gauge, I can't find it. I never saw a pattern without a gauge. Doesn't it have one? Or can I just not find it?

Wendy 11.01.2017 kl. 22:13:

Sorry, I asked a question about the gauge, but I finally found it. My mistake!

Melanie 08.09.2016 - 12:48:

Muss man bei den Ärmeln nach gesamt 10 cm beidseitig der Markierung 1 M aufnehmen oder erst 10 cm nach dem Rippenmuster?

DROPS Design 08.09.2016 kl. 13:50:

Liebe Melanie, die Aufnahmen sollen nach 10 cm von Anschlagskante beginnen = wenn die Arbeit 10 cm misst.

Mai 23.05.2013 - 18:09:

Hvordan skal diagrammet forståes? Der mangler vist lidt forklaring.

DROPS Design 28.05.2013 kl. 15:11:

Hej Mai. Du har ret, der mangler da beskrivelsen der. Vi skal tilföje det asap. Tak

Ghisi 09.02.2013 - 18:48:

Tous vos modèles me plaisent, mais ils se tricotent avec des aiguilles circulaires, peut-on les réaliser avec des aiguilles droites, avec vos explications ? merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 11.02.2013 kl. 09:30:

Bonjour Ghisi, ce modèle par ex se tricote en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles. Dans ce cas, vous pouvez utiliser des aiguilles droites, les mailles seront juste plus serrées. Ou bien, consultez nos vidéos pour apprendre à tricoter sur aiguille circulaire, après avoir essayé, beaucoup les adoptent finalement. Bon tricot !

Gunilla Eriksson 18.10.2012 - 16:22:

Hur stickas mönstret?

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