DROPS / 137 / 9

Waves by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st and with lace pattern, worked top down in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL

Tags: jackets, lace, top down,
DROPS design: Pattern no CL-007
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour no 08, light ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows with pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 2 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.00 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1, diagram shows pattern from RS.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right band from WS.
1 button hole = cast off 4th and 5th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts. Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
Size S, M and L: 2 and 10 cm.
Size XL, XXL and XXXL: 2 and 12 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked top down. Worked back and forth on a circular needle from mid front to make room for all the sts. Remember BUTTON HOLES on right band - see explanation above.

Cast on 116-124-124-136-136-140 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Cotton Light (cast on evenly and not too loose, this is the neck edge). K 1 row from WS.
Insert 4 markers in the corner sts as follows (from RS): 1st marker i the 19th-19th-19th-20th-20th-21st st, 2nd marker in the 45th-49th-49th-54th-54th-55th st, 3rd marker in the 72nd-76th-76th-83rd-83rd-86th st and 4th marker in the 98th-106th-106th-117th-117th-120th st, 18-18-18-19-19-20 sts remain after last marker (sts up to 1st marker = left front piece, sts between 1st and 2nd marker and 3rd and 4th marker = sleeves, sts between 2nd and 3rd marker = back piece and sts after 4th marker = right front piece).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work in GARTER ST back and forth on needle – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row (= RS), inc 1 st on each side of the 4 sts with markers – inc by making 1 YO (= 8 inc). On next row K YOs twisted to avoid holes (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Repeat inc every other row a total of 23-25-27-29-34-38 times = 300-324-340-368-408-444 sts. K 1 row from WS after last inc, cut the thread.

Slip the first 42-44-46-49-54-59 sts (incl 1st marker) on stitch holder 1 (= left front piece), slip the next 71-79-83-91-101-109 sts on stitch holder 2 (= sleeve), keep the next 74-78-82-88-98-108 sts (incl 2nd and 3rd marker) on needle for back piece, slip the next 71-79-83-91-101-109 sts on stitch holder 3 (= sleeve) and slip the last 42-44-46-49-54-59 sts (incl 4th marker) on stitch holder 4 (= right front piece).

BACK PIECE:
= 74-78-82-88-98-108 sts. To avoid a deep neck line at the back work 4 cm in garter st back and forth down the back piece sts (finish after 1 row from WS), cut the thread.

BODY:
Work sts from stitch holder 1 (= 42-44-46-49-54-59 sts) on to needle – while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-4-5-7-7-9 sts evenly by making YOs (do not inc over the first 10 sts (= band), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts under sleeve, work sts over back piece (= 74-78-82-88-98-108 sts) – while AT THE SAME TIME inc 5-8-12-14-14-20 sts evenly, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts under the other sleeve and work sts from stitch holder 4 (= 42-44-46-49-54-59 sts) on to needle – while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-4-5-7-7-9 sts evenly (do not inc over the last 10 sts (= band) = 179-194-212-230-254-284 sts in total. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Then work diagram M.1 (1st row = WS) with 10 band sts in each side towards mid front in garter st until finished measurements. When piece measures approx. 35 cm (finish after 1 row from WS), switch back to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work in garter st for 3 cm, LOOSELY cast off (use circular needle size 4 mm when casting off to avoid a tight cast off edge).

SLEEVE:
Work sts from stitch holder 2 on to double pointed needles size 4 mm (= 71-79-83-91-101-109 sts), then knit up 8 sts at the end of row along the outermost 4 cm in garter st worked extra on back piece, then knit up 1 st in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts cast on under sleeve on body = 85-93-99-107-119-127 sts.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 11-13-13-9-15-17 sts evenly = 74-80-86-98-104-110 sts. Insert a marker mid under sleeve (i.e. in the middle of sts knitted up under sleeve on body). Continue with diagram M.1 – but work 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 1 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat dec every cm a total of 2-4-4-8-8-13 times and then every 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm a total of 7-8-8-10-10-8 times – NOTE: Work sts that do not fit diagram M.1 in stocking st when dec. After all dec are done, 56-56-62-62-68-68 sts remain on needle. When sleeve measures 36-35-35-34-33-32 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width), switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and continue in GARTER ST in the round – see explanation above, for 3 cm. Then LOOSELY cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 39-38-38-37-36-35 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, 1 YO

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 137-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (52)

Adriana 30.07.2020 - 01:07:

I gave up 😔. I couldn’t passed the sleeves! Beautiful cardigan; perhaps another time, I spent a month trying to knit the sleeves.

Adriana 21.07.2020 - 23:13:

Since the sleeves are worked on diagram in double point needles, how do I work the WS stitches if these are purl, given the fact that we are working around the four needles. Thank you

DROPS Design 22.07.2020 kl. 07:15:

Hi Adriana, When working in the round on the sleeves, these stitches are knitted from the right side. Happy knitting!

Adriana 16.07.2020 - 14:00:

Hello! Thank you . The number 2 is actually referring to the stitch holder number 2! I got it. Now, since we are using double pointed needle and working on the round, Do I use all the needles ( they usually come on set of 4) ? I love the fact you actually respond to the inquires! Thank you! Gracias mil!!

DROPS Design 16.07.2020 kl. 14:24:

Dear Adrianna, the double pointed needles are usually 5, stitches are distributed evenly onto 4 double pointed needles and you work with the 5th one - see also video below. Happy knitting!

Adriana 15.07.2020 - 22:40:

Hello again! I am about to start with the Sleeves. I don’t understand what does it mean the part at the beginning , “stitch holder 2? ...on to double pointed... Thank you,

DROPS Design 16.07.2020 kl. 10:01:

Dear Adriana, these stitches were slipped on the "stitch holder 2) when working the dividing row (see last paragraph under JACKET before BACK PIECE). This lesson shows how to work a jumper top down and could help you to understand how the sleeves are worked. Happy knitting!

Adriana 16.06.2020 - 04:42:

😓. Still I don’t get it!! What do you mean by (+ 1st With marker ) do i add another stitch? 🤔 Thank you

DROPS Design 16.06.2020 kl. 09:10:

Dear Adriana, you are supposed to add 1 marker in each of the the raglan stitches - increases for raglan are worked on each side of these stitches. You should then work the first 44 stitches for front piece: the first 18 sts cast on + the 25 sts increased + the next stitch = 44 sts. Happy knitting!

Adriana 14.06.2020 - 00:27:

It doesn’t add up! After 200 Sts. Inc. the count of Sts to continue is wrong!! The right side piece contains 18 Sts. How is it going to add up to 44 after the inc.? 18 + 25= 43! 🤔. Please let let me know where is my mistake...

DROPS Design 15.06.2020 kl. 09:22:

Dear Adriana, there is no mistake, you will work the first 18 sts + the 25 new sts increased + 1 st with marker = 44 sts for front piece. Happy knitting!

Stéphanie Menetrey 19.04.2020 - 14:21:

Bonjour, j'adore vos modèle drop mais je ne sais pas tricoter en aiguilles circulaires mais à la française avec deux aiguilles. Vos modèles sont-ils réalisables de cette façon ou pas. merci pour votre aide. stéphanie

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 10:27:

Bonjour Stéphanie, vous trouverez ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

Mischa 16.04.2019 - 22:54:

Dank u wel!

Mischa 11.04.2019 - 16:57:

Dank voor uw spoedige reactie. Dit begreep ik wel. Ik bedoelde dat het opnemen van de steken (8 achterpand en 6 onder de mouw) vaak lelijke lussen als resultaat geeft en dat ik het op een andere manier wilde doen/tips daarover zocht.

DROPS Design 16.04.2019 kl. 14:03:

Dag Mischa

Je zou er ook voor kunnen kiezen om niet de steken op te nemen in het pand, maar nieuwe steken opzetten en op het einde het gat onder de mouw (/oksel) dicht te naaien.

Mischa 10.04.2019 - 18:34:

Nog een vraag. Ik ben nu bij de mouw aangekomen die ik niet op vier naalden brei, maar op de rondbreinaalden (bij de naad naai ik de mouw aan elkaar vast). Ophalen van de steken wordt vaak lelijk bij mij, heeft u misschien een tip hoe ik het ophalen van de steken kan omzeilen? Losbreien en daarna vastnaaien net als de naad. Alvast dank voor alle hulp.

DROPS Design 11.04.2019 kl. 15:19:

Dag Mischa,

Begrijp ik het goed dat je de mouw in de rondte breit op de rondbreinaald en dat je vraag is hoe je steken opneemt aan de onderkant van de mouw in het pand? Je kan de naald in een steek van het pand steken, de draad omslaan en dan door de steek halen. Zet evt. deze steek gedraaid op de naald, om gaatjes te voorkomen.

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