DROPS Baby / 21 / 35

Baby Booties by DROPS Design

Knitted socks with rib for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

Tags: socks,
  • Baby Booties / DROPS Baby 21-35 - Knitted socks with rib for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-035-by
Yarn group A
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
Colour no 22, light grey: 50 g for all sizes.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.10£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Worked back and forth in stocking st.
ROW 1 (= RS): Work until 1 st remains, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): Slip first st as if to P, tighten thread and work until 1 st remains, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= RS): Slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work until 2 sts remain, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= WS): Slip first st as if to P, tighten thread and work until 2 sts remain, turn piece.
Continue dec the same way until 8-8-10 (10-12) sts remain in the middle of row. Insert a marker.
Continue back and forth but now work 1 st more for every row over heel. To avoid holes in the transitions, lift the thread before the st to be knitted up and slip it twisted on the needle. Work the thread tog with st. Work like this until all heel sts have been worked.
Dec as follows 3 sts before marker: K 2 tog, K 1.
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Cast on 40-44-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm. Slip the last st that was worked on to same needle as the first 19-19-23 (23-27) sts on round = 20-20-24 (24-28) sts on needle for heel. Slip the other 20-24-24 (28-28) sts (= on top of foot) on a stitch holder - rib on top of foot will now start and end with 1 P. Now work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above! After heel decrease, slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and continue in the round over all sts again – NOTE: Work rib over the 20-24-24 (28-28) sts on top of foot and stocking st over the 20-20-24 (24-28) sts under foot. When sock measures 7½-8½-9 (11-12) cm from marker on heel (approx. 2½-2½-3 (3-4) cm remain until finished measurements), distribute sts so that there are 20-22-24 (26-28) sts both on top of foot and under foot. Insert a marker in each side. Work in stocking st in the round over all sts - while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of every marker - READ DECREASE TIP: Dec every other round a total of 5-5-6 (6-7) times = 20-24-24 (28-28) sts remain on needle. Cut the thread so that it is long enough to sew the piece tog. Place the piece flat and sew the 10-12-12 (14-14) sts on top of foot against the 10-12-12 (14-14) sts under foot with grafting/kitchener sts. Sock measures approx. 10-11-12 (14-16) cm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

country flag Effie Mackenzie 10.01.2021 - 16:01:

Can I get the patterns in printable form. It's an age thing 😄

country flag Catharina 10.12.2020 - 22:43:

Stickar de minsta sockorna (40 upplagda maskor). Jag har använt fyra stickor men börjar förstå att det nog ska vara två bara? Oavsett så har jag fastnat då det står att man ska sätta in den sista m som stickades på samma st som de första 19. Om jag har två stickor så är det ju 20 + 20, inte 19 ? Och om det nu ska vara 20+20 så får jag det inte att gå ihop med att resåren på foten kommer börja och sluta med en am? Skulle bli superglad för förtydligande för en nybörjare!

user icon DROPS Design 11.12.2020 kl. 07:35:

Hej Catharina. Du ska sticka runt på rundstickor först fram tills hälavmaskningen börjar, då stickar du fram och tillbaka istället. Du ska ha 20 m på tråd till översidan av foten och 20 maskor till hälavmaskning, men du fördelar de så att de på foten börjar och slutar med en avigmaska. Den sista m på varvet+ de 19 första på v blir alltså till översidan av foten, övriga 20 stickar du vidare med hälavmaskning. Hoppas det hjälper dig att förstå. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Barbara 07.12.2020 - 21:45:

Hallo,ich verstehe nicht zu welchen Zweck die letzte Masche auf die erste Nadel gelegt werden soll.und wie es sich dann mit der Madchenzahl verhält.

user icon DROPS Design 08.12.2020 kl. 08:54:

Liebe Barbara, meinen Sie für die Ferse? Hier strickt man eine diagonale Ferse - siehe dieses Video, dh zuerst verkürzten Reihen (je 1 M weniger stricken) dann verlängerten Reihen (je 1 M mehr stricken). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Wenche 07.12.2020 - 13:59:

Mange tak for en super-god, let opfattelig opskrift, specielt hælen og maskesyningen. Har strikket siden jeg var 6 år og det er med stor glæde jeg tager fadt på nye opskrifter. Denne har varmet mit barnebarns fødder i over et halvandet år nu.

country flag Anna Maria 31.10.2020 - 10:03:

Buongiorno Ho avviato 56 maglie, ho lavorato x 11 cm Non ho capito il passaggio seguente Grazie mille

user icon DROPS Design 31.10.2020 kl. 14:06:

Buongiorno Anna Maria, deve tenere sui ferri le prime 28 maglie e trasferire le altre 28 su un fermamaglie per il sopra del piede, e poi deve proseguire a lavorare le diminuzioni per il tallone come indicato. Buon lavoro!

country flag Emma 03.10.2020 - 13:47:

Jeg anbefaler ingen å forsøke å strikke denne oppskriften hvis de er høygravide og hormonelle. Sokkene er veldig søte, men oppskriften er elendig beskrevet. Frustrasjonen er enorm og pinnene er knekt.

country flag Salomé 11.04.2020 - 11:39:

Bonjour, merci pour la vidéo mais j'avais oublié de préciser que je tricote en circulaire avec le magic loop .. comment puis-je adapter ? Merci pour votre aide

user icon DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 10:57:

Bonjour Salomé, les explications sont les mêmes, lisez-les attentivement et suivez-les à la lettre, nos explications peuvent se faire indifféremment avec des aiguilles doubles pointes ou en magic loop. Bon tricot!

country flag Salomé 08.04.2020 - 22:42:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas où il faut mettre les marqueurs pour faire la pointe de la chaussette, pouvez-vous me l’indiquer ? De la même façon si on tricote en rond, on ne peut pas tricoter tout en même temps non ? Merci pour votre aide

user icon DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 17:32:

Bonjour Salomé, cette vidéo montre comment placer les marqueurs (ils sont déjà en place dans la vidé) et comment diminuer pour la pointe d'une chaussette, vous devriez ainsi visualiser comment faire les 4 diminutions par tour. Bon tricot!

country flag Mathilde 23.03.2020 - 13:56:

Hei! Har oppskrifta blitt endrett på i det siste? Virker som en del av oppskrifta mangler.. Etter hælfelling skal det vell plukkes opp masker på sidene? Dette står det ingenting om i oppskriften?

user icon DROPS Design 25.03.2020 kl. 07:58:

Hej Mathilde, du har alle masker på pinden når du har strikket hele HÆLFELLINGEN, hvor du efter at have strikker over 1 mindre maske nu strikker over 1 maske mere for hver pind. God fornøjelse!

country flag Garnstudiosucks 05.01.2020 - 20:13:

Hold da helt fest en elendig opskrift. Skrid dog ad helvede til med jeres talentløse lort! Sådan en gang pseudoesoterisk lort med ligegyldige forkortelser og pis og lort. Og ligesom alle andre skriver så er drejningen af hælen jo komplet forrykt. Er der overhovedet nogen der har brugt jeres elendige opskrift? Jeg fandt i hvert fald hurtigt en anden som ikke er skrevet af en idiot. FØJ!

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