DROPS / 126 / 30

Twilight Leaves by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS poncho / top in ”Alaska” with rib and lace pattern. Size S to XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no X-361
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
600-650-750-800-900-1000 g colour no 54m, purple mix

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 40 cm) size 4 mm - for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 to M.3. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round.
Cast on 156-168-180-192-216-240 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Alaska. Work 1 round stocking st and continue in rib as follows: * K2, P4 *, repeat from *-*. When piece measures 20 cm for all sizes work next row as follows: cast off the first 8-8-8-14-14-14 sts for armhole (= Size S, M and L: K2, P4, K2, Size XL, XXL, XXXL: K2, P4, K2, P4, K2), work the next 70-76-82-82-94-106 sts as before (= front piece), cast off the next 8-8-8-14-14-14 sts for armhole and work the last 70-76-82-82-94-106 sts as before (= back piece).
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Now LOOSELY cast on 112-118-136-144-166-176 new sts (= over sleeve), P sts on front piece AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 60-66-70-72-82-84 sts, LOOSELY cast on 112-118-136-144-166-176 new sts (= over the other sleeve) and P sts on back piece AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 60-66-70-72-82-84 sts = 344-368-412-432-496-520 sts. Round now beg between back piece and one of the sleeves. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
P 1 round on all sts.
Continue as follows:
SIZE S: * M.1A (= 16 sts), P16 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, M.1A, P 60 (= front piece), * M.2A, P16 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, finish with M.2A, P 60 (= back piece).
SIZE M: * M.1A (= 16 sts), P18 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, M.1A, P 66 (= front piece), * M.2A, P18 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, finish with M.2A, P 66 (= back piece).
SIZE L: * M.1A (= 16 sts), P14 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, M.1A, P 70 (= front piece), * M.2A, P14 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with M.2A, P 70 (= back piece),
SIZE XL: * M.1A (= 16 sts), P16 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, M.1A, P 72 (= front piece), * M.2A, P16 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with M.2A, P72 (= back piece).
SIZE XXL: * M.1A (= 16 sts), P14 *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, M.1A, P 82 (= front piece), * M.2A, P14 *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish with M.2A, P82 (= back piece).
SIZE XXXL: * M.1A (= 16 sts), P16 *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, M.1A, P 84 (= front piece), * M.2A, P16 *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish with M.2A, P 84 (= back piece).
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
When piece measures 5-5-3-2-3-2 cm dec on the P sts mid front and mid back by P tog the 2 first sts and P tog the last 2 sts. Repeat the dec on every 6-5-5-5-4-4 round a total of 13-16-17-18-22-23 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5-6-7-7-9-9 cm P tog the first 2 sts and P tog the last 2 sts on each P-section over sleeves Repeat the dec on every 12-10-14-12-14-12 round a total of 7-8-6-7-6-7 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm (adjust so that there is one round left in pattern repeat) slip the middle 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Work remaining sts on round, cut the thread.
Continue back and forth from mid front – beg from WS and continue as follows: Over the first repeat of M.2A work M.2B, and over the last repeat of M.1A work M.1B (i.e. work the B-diagram each side of mid front), work the remaining repeats as before, but replace the last 2 rows in each repeat with M.3 (i.e. no YO on the last row).
AT THE SAME TIME cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 5 times (continue the other dec as before).
When all dec are complete there are 138-138-168-168-198-198 sts on needle.
Work next row from RS as follows: P2 tog 2 times, continue as follows over the first sleeve: K3 tog 2 times, P2 *, K2 tog 6 times, P2 * repeat from *-* a total of 2-2-3-3-4-4 times, finish with K2 tog 6 times, continue as follows over back piece: P2 tog 8-8-7-7-9-9 times, P 2-2-8-8-2-2, P2 tog 8-8-7-7-8-8 times, continue as follows over the other sleeve: * K2 tog 6 times, P2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, and finish with K3 tog 2 times, P2 tog 2 times, now pick up 30-30-30-30-34-34 sts along neckline at front (includes sts on stitch holder) = 104-104-122-122-140-140 sts.

NECK:
Change to small circular needle size 4 mm and continue in rib, P2/K2 – make sure to have P2 over the P2 between the pattern repeats on sleeves. When neck measures 10 cm cast off loosely with K over K and P over P.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K3 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 126-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (73)

Hixon 19.03.2020 - 20:28:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas les explications à partir du moment où l'on met les 12 mailles en attente pour l'encolure. J'ai bien commencé le tour jusqu'au moment où il faut mettre les mailles en attente. Mais je ne sais pas si je doit finir le tour en circulaire ou si je dois directement commencer en aller-retour. Pourriez-vous m'expliquer la marche à suivre ? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide

DROPS Design 20.03.2020 kl. 09:38:

Bonjour Mme Hixon, Terminez le tour où l'on doit mettre les mailles en attente (tricotez ces 12 mailles puis mettez-les sur un fil ou un arrêt de mailles), et terminez le tour comme avant. Ensuite, vous coupez le fil et vous continuez à partir des mailles de l'encolure autrement dit après les 12 mailles en attente, les rangs commencent et se terminent maintenant côté encolure. En même temps, vous allez tricoter comme avant et rabattre pour l'encolure au début de chaque rang de chaque côté 1 x 2 m et 5x 1 m. Bon tricot!

Jessica 08.11.2019 - 17:48:

Hallo! Mir kommt meine Frage etwas dumm vor, aber ich habe jetzt das Bündchen mit den Abnahmen und Aufnahmen für die Ärmel fertig und finde nirgendwo einen Punkt, an dem die Arbeit zusammengenäht wird. Ich habe aber auch keine Stelle gesehen, an der ich die Maschen zu einer Runde schließen sollte. Habe ich den Punkt verpasst, oder muss ich ganz am Ende eine Naht am Rücken über das gesamte Strickstück schließen? Vielen Dank für die Antwort!

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 09:47:

Liebe Jessica, die Arbeit wird rund gestrickt, dh Anschlag wird zur Runde geschlossen, und beim Anschlag für die Ärmel wird es auf einer Rund gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Barbara 27.09.2018 - 18:41:

Nächste Frage: Gilt "LESEN SIE DIE GANZE ANLEITUNG BEVOR SIE WEITERSTRICKEN!" für den VORHERIGEN Schritt? Also soll ich schon während ich das Muster M1A / M2A stricke nach 5cm in den li.Partien anfangen indem ich die ersten 2 und die letzten 2 M. in jeder li.-Partie zusammen stricke?

DROPS Design 28.09.2018 kl. 08:16:

Liebe Barbara, dieser Satz betrifft was Sie dann machen sollen. d.h. Sie stricken im Muster wie zuvor beschrieben, und gleichzeitig nehmen Sie nach 5-5 cm (Größe S-M) ab und nach 5-7 cm nehmen Sie auch mal ab, und nach 30-32 cm werden Sie Halsauschnitt stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kathrine Eliassen 25.08.2017 - 21:03:

Hei lurer på hva menes med de 2 siste p i hver rapport byttes med M.3?

DROPS Design 05.09.2017 kl. 10:24:

Hei Katrine. 1 rapport av M.1 og M.2 (se diagrammene M.1A, M.1B, M.2A og M.2B) er det 12 rader/pinner (høyden på diagrammet), men når du har strikket 10 rader/pinner, skal de 2 siste radene/pinnene byttes ut med M.3, slik at det ikke blir noen kast/økninger i 12. rad/pinne. Men heller fellinger (se 2. rad/pinne i M.3), ettersom du holder på å felle inn til halsen. God Fornøyelse?

Ruzica 06.12.2015 - 20:14:

Hi, for starters, I just love this pattern. It could easily be one of my favorite. I have couple of questions though. I put the middle 12 sts mid front on stitch holder, finished the remaining sts in the round and cut the thread. So, that round ends between back piece and sleeve. Next the pattern tells to start back and forth from mid front. How? And how many repeats of the pattern must I work for shaping the neckline? I presume only 1(= 12 rows). Thank you for this lovely pattern.

DROPS Design 07.12.2015 kl. 11:26:

Dear Ruzica, after you have cut the yarn, start again from WS, after the 12 sts on a thread and continue back an forth from mid front. Then work the diagram as stated: cast off for neckline 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 5 times at the beg of every row + work the "B" diagrams on each side of mid front and continue the last rows in "A" diagrams as before. Happy knitting!

Agnese 29.09.2015 - 16:58:

Buongiorno, in riferimento al modello 126-30, non capisco come continuare quando dice che bisogna lasciare in attesa 12 m per lo scollo, finire il giro e tagliare il filo. Come posso lasciare in attesa le m e continuare il giro? Il lavoro si "raggrinzisce"! E quando vanno riprese le maglie lasciate in sospeso? Grazie mille in anticipo!

DROPS Design 30.09.2015 kl. 12:33:

Buongiorno Agnese, dopo aver messo in sospeso le 12 m per il collo, il lavoro si continua avanti e indietro e si intrecciano le m per lo scollo. Le m in sospeso verranno riprese alla fine quando si completerà il collo. Buon lavoro!

Duret 11.05.2015 - 13:13:

Bonjour, Modèle 126-30 Taille M Sur les 30 mailles du dos il est impossible de faire 8x2ens. 2 env. et8x2ens., il manque 1x 2ens. et les 2 envers. Même problème pour les 30 mailles du devant. Combien doit-il me rester de mailles réellement au total après correction. Merci pour votre aide qui j'espère être la bonne cette fois-ci. Cordialement

DROPS Design 11.05.2015 kl. 17:38:

Bonjour Mme Duret, en taille M, vous devez avoir 138 m après toutes les diminutions des raglans et pour l'encolure devant. Diminuez comme indiqué (cf réponse précédente), il reste 74 + 30 m à relever/reprendre au-dessus de l'encolure (les 12 m en attente + au-dessus des 1 x 2 m et 5 x 1 m rabattues de chaque côté) = 104 m pour le col. Bon tricot!

Duret 08.05.2015 - 23:10:

Bonjour, Pour le modèle 126-30 Taille M Après les 138 mailles, pour les diminutions du dos sur 30 mailles il n'est pas possible de faire 8x2 ens. 2 env. et 8x2 ens. comme indiqué, et après toutes les diminutions combien de mailles me restent réellement ? Merci pour votre précieuse aide, bien cordialement.

DROPS Design 11.05.2015 kl. 09:54:

Bonjour Mme Duret, sur 138 m, tricotez: 2 x 2 m ens à l'env, 2 x 3 m ens à l'end, 3 x (2 m env, 6 x 2 m ens à l'end), 6x 2 m ens à l'end, puis pour le dos: 8 x 2 m ens à l'env, 2 m env, 8 x 2 m ens à l'env, et enfin 3x (6 x 2 m ens à l'end, 2 m env), 2x 3 m ens à l'end et 2 x 2 m ens à l'env, il reste 74 m, relevez 30 m le long de l'encolure devant= 104 m. Bon tricot!

Duret 22.04.2015 - 11:35:

Bonjour, pour le modèle 126-30 les douze mailles centrales à mettre en attente sont sur le DEVANT et le DOS ou bien que le devant? Ensuite qu'entendez vous par les 2 derniers rangs de chaque motif? Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 22.04.2015 kl. 18:31:

Bonjour Mme Duret, les mailles mises en attente pour l'encolure sont celles du milieu devant, on continue ensuite en allers et retours, sur l'envers, à partir du milieu devant (côté mailles en attente) jusqu'aux mailles de l'autre côté du devant (côté mailles en attente). On tricote M2B et M1B au-dessus du 1er et du dernier motif du rang, on continue les autres diagrammes comme avant, mais aux 2 derniers rangs de ces motifs, on tricote M3 à la place des 2 rangs des diagrammes (M1A et M2A). Bon tricot!

Duret 10.04.2015 - 09:49:

Pour le modèle 126-30 à 32 cm Que veut dire AJUSTER pour qu'il reste un tour du motif à répéter,merci pour votre aide, cordialement

DROPS Design 10.04.2015 kl. 14:02:

On met en attente les mailles de l'encolure à 32 cm de hauteur totale ou, ajustez la hauteur en fonction de votre tension, lorsqu'il reste 1 tour du motif à tricoter avant de mettre les mailles en attente. Bon tricot!

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