DROPS Baby / 19 / 10

Snuggly Bunny by DROPS Design

Knitted bunting bag in seed st with textured pattern and cables in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

DROPS design: Pattern no ME-042-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 62-68-76 (80-88) cm / 24 3/8"-26 3/4"-30" (31½"-34 5/8")
Full length: 56-66-76 (86-98 ) cm / 22"-26"-30" (33 7/8"-38½")

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
450-500-550 (650-700) g color no 01, off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') size 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON BURNT, no 511: 10-10-10 (12-12) pcs.

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100% Wool
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
BUNTING BAG:


GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3. Diagrams show the pattern from RS. First row in M.2 and M.3 = RS.

HOLE FOR SEAT BELT IN CAR SEAT:
You can make a hole on front and back piece for car seat belt. Make the hole when piece measures approx 16-20-23 (28-33) cm / 6 1/4"-8"-9" (11"-13") (or required measurements) by casting/binding off the middle 10 sts on needle. On next row cast on 10 new sts over bind off sts and continue as before.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size 1/3 months: 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 and 50 cm / 9 3/4",11 3/4",13 3/4",15 3/4",17 3/4" and 19 3/4".
Size 6/9 months: 28, 34, 41, 47, 54 and 60 cm / 11",13 3/8",16 1/8", 18½",21 1/4" and 23 5/8".
Size 12/18 months: 30, 38, 46, 54, 62 and 70 cm / 11 3/4",15",18",21 1/4",24 3/8" and 27½".
Size 2 years: 37, 44, 51, 58, 65, 72 and 79 cm / 14½",17 1/4",20",22 3/4",25½",28 3/8" and 31".
Size 3/4 years: 40, 48, 57, 65, 74, 82 and 91 cm / 15 3/4",19",22½",25½",29 1/8",32 1/4" and 35 3/4".
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BUNTING BAG:
The bag is worked in 2 parts from bottom edge and up and sewn tog afterwards. Work each part back and forth on circular needle in order to fit in all sts.
NOTE: If hole for seat belt is required – see above.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 68-74-82 (86-94) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Merino Extra Fine. Work GARTER ST - see above – for 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") – adjust to a row from WS. P 1 row from WS and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st each side (beg with K1 after edge st).
When piece measures 44-53-62 (71-82) cm / 17 1/4"-21"-24 3/8" (28"-32 1/4") cast on new sts for sleeves each side. Cast on at the end of every row as follows: 4 sts 2-2-3 (3-3) times, 8 sts 1-1-1 (1-3) times, 10 sts 1-1-1 (2-1) times and 12-14-15 (15-16) sts 1 time = 144-154-172 (196-218) sts on needle – NOTE: incorporate inc sts in M.1 as you go along - when all sts have been cast on continue M.1, but with 10 sts each side in garter st (= bottom edge of sleeves).
When piece measures 54-64-74 (84-96) cm / 21 1/4"-25 1/4"-29 1/8" (33"-37 3/4") bind off the middle 16-18-22 (24-24) sts for neck and complete each shoulder/sleeve separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 63-67-74 (85-96) sts left on needle (= shoulder + sleeve). Bind off when piece measures 56-66-76 (86-98) cm / 22"-26"-30" (33 7/8"-38½"). Repeat on the other side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 68-74-82 (86-94) sts and work garter st for 2-2-2 (2.5-2.5) cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4" (7/8"-7/8"), then work next row as follows from RS: K 12-13-14 (14-16) sts, * K2 tog, 1 YO, K 12-13-15 (12-13) sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-3 (4-4) times, K2 tog, 1 YO and finish with K 12-14-15 (14-16) sts (= 4-4-4 (5-5) buttonholes). Continue in garter st until edge measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") - adjust to a row from WS. P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 22 sts evenly = 90-96-104 (108-116) sts. Work next rows as follows from RS: 1 edge st, M.1 on the first 5-8-12 (14-18) sts (beg with K1 at the side to match pattern at the side to back piece), M.2 (= 32 sts), P 14 sts, M.3 (= 32 sts), M.1 on the next 5-8-12 (14-18) sts (adjust so M.1 finishes with P1 at the side before edge st to match pattern to back piece) and finish with 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this with M.1, M.2 and M.3 and 14 sts in reverse stockinette st mid front. When piece measures 23-25-28 (33-37) cm / 9"-9 3/4"-11" (13"-14½") slip the first 42-45-49 (51-55) sts on a stitch holder = 48-51-55 (57-61) sts left on needle.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 48-51-55 (57-61) sts. Continue in pattern as before, but work the 6 sts towards mid front in garter st for front band - REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES - see above! When piece measures 44-53-62 (71-82) cm / 17 1/4"-21"-24 3/8" (28"-32 1/4") cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row towards the side as described for back piece = 86-91-100 (112-123) sts. When all sts have been cast on continue in pattern as before, but work the 10 sts on sleeve edge in garter st. When 1 row remain before piece measures 51-61-71 (80-92) cm / 20"-24"-28" (31½"-36 1/4") – adjust so this row is from WS - dec 4 sts on the cable towards mid front (i.e. dec 2 sts over cable and 1 st each side of cable). On next row from RS slip 6-7-8 (9-9) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-2-3 (3-3) times = 70-74-81 (92-103) sts left on needle (= shoulder + sleeve). Continue in pattern as before. When 1 row remain before piece measures 56-66-76 (86-98) cm / 22"-26"-30" (33 7/8"-38½") dec 7 sts evenly over sts in cables in M.3 = 63-67-74 (85-96) sts. On next row bind off all sts.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 6 sts behind the 6 garter sts on right front band = 48-51-55 (57-61) sts. Continue as described for right front piece but mirrored – NOTE: do not make buttonholes on front band.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder/over arm seams. Sew seam under sleeves and down along the side inside 1 edge st. Fold 5 cm / 2'' on each sleeve edge towards RS and fasten with a couple of sts. Sew 4-4-4 (5-5) buttons at bottom of bunting bag and sew remaining buttons on left front band.

HOOD:
Pick up from RS approx 58 to 78 sts round neck (includes sts from stitch holders at front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 85-89-93 (97-101) sts. Continue in M.1 with 6 garter sts each side - AT THE SAME TIME cast on 6 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows for folding edge = 97-101-105 (109-113) sts – work these sts in garter st. Continue in M.1 with 12 garter sts each side until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm / 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4" (10 5/8"-11") and bind off. Fold hood double and sew tog at the top. Fold 6 garter sts round opening of hood towards RS and fasten to neckline with neat sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (205)

Steffi 24.03.2017 - 10:19:

Was passiert mit den sechs Maschen die für das rechte Vorderteil auf den Hilfsfaden genommen werden? Mit abketten? Und wenn es heißt, von der Mitte gegen den Hals abketten, wie ist das denn gemeint? Danke für die Hilfe!

DROPS Design 24.03.2017 kl. 11:25:

Liebe Steffi, die 6 M sollen Sie auf einem Faden stilllegen und dann weitestricke, gleichzeitig für den Halsausschnitt abketten. Am Ende werden Sie diese 6 M wieder auf die Nadel legen um die Kapuze zu stricken (siehe KAPUZE). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Elsebeth T 15.03.2017 - 18:06:

Hvor mange rækker skal der strikkes mellem snoningerne 😊

DROPS Design 16.03.2017 kl. 11:34:

Hej Elsebeth, de 2 midterste snoninger sker på hver 6.pind og de 2 (1 på hver side) sker på hver 4.pind. God fornøjelse!

Sahana Gupta 26.10.2016 - 13:27:

Please clarify WS - after decreasing the 4 stitches over the last cable - I have 4 knit stitches and 6 garter stitches to end of row. From RS I knit garter and put on holder. Then I have 4 purl stitches. followed by the decreased stitches over cable. How do I continue?

DROPS Design 26.10.2016 kl. 14:58:

Dear Mrs Gupta, when you have slipped the sts on a st holder, work to the end of row as before, ie P or K as previously, if you have P4, then P the next 4 sts. Happy knitting!

Sahana Gupta 26.10.2016 - 03:25:

1. Right front piece: WS - decrease 4 sets over last cable before button band leaves 4 knit stitches after the decrease and 6 garter stitches (button band). On RS if I slip 6 stitches, the yarn is in the stitch holder. Should I slip stitches before knitting on previous row ? 2. Decrease 2 stitches on this row -but I have 4 purl stitches before I get to the first cable that I decrease on wrong side. Please help. Thank you

DROPS Design 26.10.2016 kl. 09:32:

Dear Mrs Gupta, after the dec row from WS work the first 6 sts before slipping them on a st holder to avoid cutting the yarn, work to the end of row. Work then next row from WS and at the beg of next row from RS (starting from neckline), cast off 2 sts. Happy knitting!

Susanne Andersen 09.10.2016 - 18:36:

Efter vask er køreposen blevet meget løs og stor i det, er der nogen redning så den kan trække sig lidt sammen igen?

DROPS Design 10.10.2016 kl. 14:12:

Hej Susanne. Grunden til at merinoen kan blive lös efter vask er 1) forkert vask (for varm, for lang tid i blöd, skyllemiddel) eller 2) posen er strikket for löst (strikkefasthed for lös). Det er desvaerre lidt svaert at rette op paa. Jeg ville vaske den forsigtig igen iflg anvisningerne og lade den törre i den rigtige form (liggende). Men jeg kan ikke love det hjaelper.

Cindy Chong 14.09.2016 - 07:44:

If you still haven't given this super adorable bunting bag a name or title by today, Sept. 12, 2016, .... Might I suggest "fisher-in-training" bunting bag! I think that any of the fancy fisherman sweaters look like this or have at least some of the designs and patterns integrated into them.

Cindy Chong 14.09.2016 - 07:43:

If you still haven't given this super adorable bunting bag a name or title by today, Sept. 12, 2016, .... Might I suggest "fisher-in-training" bunting bag! I think that any of the fancy fisherman sweaters look like this or have at least some of the designs and patterns integrated into them.

Yvonne Olovsson 17.08.2016 - 14:33:

Allså varv 5 stickas räta maskor från rätsidan hela varvat och varv 6 aviga maskor från avigsidan hela varvet

DROPS Design 18.08.2016 kl. 12:31:

Hej. Se mitt tidigare svar. Mvh DROPS Design

Yvonne Olovsson 17.08.2016 - 14:28:

Ja vet att de stickas räta från rätsidan och aviga från avigsidan. Men va stickar man innan och efter för maskor. Det står ju inte är ju bara som ett torn i mitten

DROPS Design 18.08.2016 kl. 12:30:

Hej. De andra maskorna stickar du som tidigare varv. Anledningen till att vi skriver diagrammen på detta sätt är för att visa att flätorna i mitten vrids på vart sjätte varv och de på kanterna på vart fjärde varv. Lycka till!

Yvonne Olovsson 17.08.2016 - 13:44:

Mösterdiagram M2 och M3 det är ju först 4 varv sen 2 varv är det som en topp med rutor i mitten men vad stickar jag för maskor innan och efter dom. Yvonne

DROPS Design 17.08.2016 kl. 14:22:

Hej. De stickas rm från rätsidan, am från avigsidan (se teckenförklaringen). Lycka till!

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