DROPS / 119 / 9

Edge of Summer by DROPS Design

DROPS shawl with leaf borders in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-475

Width at the top: approx 102 cm
Length mid back: approx 48 cm
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 0100, eco off-white
and use: DROPS KID SILK from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in stocking st with 1 thread Alpaca and 2 threads Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.65 € /50g
Winnie’s Craft Café
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.85 € /50g
Winnie’s Craft Café

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.50 € /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 4.50 € /25g
Winnie’s Craft Café
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 4.50 € /25g
Winnie’s Craft Café
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.95€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.

Worked back and forth on circular needle in order to fit in all sts. Cast on 19 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 2 threads Kid-Silk.
Continue as follows (first row = from RS): M.1, 1 GARTER ST – see above - M.2. On row 3 inc 1 st each side of garter st in the middle, and repeat the inc on every 4th row a total of 4 times. Inc by making 1 YO and work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole. Work inc sts in garter st.
After 1 vertical repeat of M.1/M.2 there are 27 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker after 12 sts and 1 marker after 15 sts (3 sts between markers = middle of piece). Now measure piece from here.
Continue as follows (first row = RS):
M.1, 3 stocking sts (= K from RS, P from WS), M.2.
AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st each side of the 3 stocking sts in the middle on every other row and AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st each side inside M.1/M.2 on every 6th row. Make all inc from RS, inc by making 1 YO, and work YO in stocking st on return row to create holes (see picture). When piece measures approx 42 cm from marker (measured in the knitting direction) cast off 3 sts in the middle of piece and complete each side separately.

Continue in M.2 at the side and continue inc 1 st inside M.2 on every 6th row as before. AT THE SAME TIME cast off 2 sts at beg of every row from RS. Continue like this until only sts in M.2 remain on needle. Complete M.2 = 9 sts on needle. Cast off.

Continue in M.1 at the side and continue inc 1 st inside M.1 on every 6th row as before. AT THE SAME TIME cast off 2 sts at beg of every row from WS. Continue like this until only sts in M.1 remain on needle. Complete M.1 = 9 sts on needle. Cast off.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= work 2 sts in 1 st
= slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
= K2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
= P2 tog, cast off remaining st
= cast off sts
= P2 tog

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Anna 10.08.2018 - 19:01:

Bonjour, vous dites que les diagrammes montrent les motifs sur l'endroit. Est-ce que cela veut dire que ce sont seulement les rang impairs (1,3,5 etc)? Si c'est le cas comment on tricote les rang sur l'envers? Merci

DROPS Design 13.08.2018 kl. 08:58:

Bonjour Anna, tous les rangs du motif sont représentés dans le diagramme, vus sur l'endroit. Tricotez les mailles sur l'endroit comme indiqué (= case blanche = jersey end & croix = jersey envers par exemple et 1 case blanche/1 croix alternativement = point mousse). Lisez les diagrammes de bas en haut, de droite à gauche sur l'endroit et de gauche à droite sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

Dominique Coffinet 16.01.2018 - 18:32:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas bien vos explications. Une fois que l’on a tricoté M1 et M2 la première fois j’ai bien 27 mailles. Vous dites de placer un marqueur après 12m et après 15m cela fait bien 27m. Donc d’ou Viennent les 3 mailles centrales que l’on doit avoir entre les marqueurs? Merci pour votre aide Sincèrement Dominique

DROPS Design 17.01.2018 kl. 08:27:

Bonjour Mme Coffinet, les marqueurs sont espacés de 3 mailles, vous placez le 1er après les 12 premières mailles et le 2ème après les 15 premières mailles = après les 3 mailles suivantes. Bon tricot!

Birgit 20.02.2017 - 17:50:

Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Sollte noch ein Problem auftauchen wende ich mich gerne wieder an Sie.👌🏻☺️

Birgit 19.02.2017 - 14:45:

Also , ich habe folgendes zweimal durchprobiert:in der 3.reihe neben der mittelmasche 2 Maschen zugenommen. Dann in jeder 4.reihe ( insegamt 4 mal) 2 Maschen neben der mittelmasche zugenommen.das letze Zeichen im Diagramm bedeutet wohl 2 Maschen links zusammen,habe ich so gestrickt.in der letzten Reihe (M2) werden da insgesamt 6 m abgenommen?2 m links zusammen, die Masche abketten und dann noch 4 Maschen abketten? So komme ich am Ende auf 29 Maschen. Nehme ich also irgendwo 2 M Zuviel auf?

DROPS Design 20.02.2017 kl. 10:17:

Liebe Birgit, in der vorletzten Reihe in M.1 werden die ersten 5 M abgekettet (nich abgenommen), in der letze Reihe in M.2 stricken Sie zuerst 2 M li zs, dann solle Sie 4 M abketten (= ins 5 M abketten) = 9 M sind jetzt übrig in M.1 und in M.2, so können Sie bei der nächsten Reihe die beide Diagramme noch einmal in der Höhe stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Birgit 18.02.2017 - 12:19:

Eine Frage: was bedeutet...und bei jeder 4.R. total 4 mal wiederholen? In der 3.Reihe beidseitig der Mittelmasche eine Masche zunehmen ist klar, und dann... Dann wäre noch die Bedeutung des letzten Zeichens vom Diagramm zu klären, gehe aber von 2M. Rechts zusammen stricken aus. Vielen Dank erstmal.

DROPS Design 20.02.2017 kl. 09:30:

Liebe Birgit, am 3. Reihe von Ansshchlagskante (= Hinreihe) 1 M auf beiden Seiten der mittleren zunehmen (= nach M.1 und vor M.2), dann 3 Reihe stricken (M1 und M2 wie im Diagram stricken), und am 4. Reihe diese Zunahme wiederholen, und so weiter stricken, dh in jeder 4. R werden Sie 2 M (= beidseitig der mittleren M) zunehmen. Das letze Zeichen = 2 M li zs (wird bald ergänzt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kaija 11.01.2013 - 07:20:

Kaunis malli, mutta ohje ei aukene millään. Voisitteko laittaa yksityiskohtaisemmat ohjeet sähköpostiini?

DROPS Design 14.01.2013 kl. 16:30:

Ohje kyllä aukenee hyvin. Yritä vaan uudestaan! Joskus, kun sivujen kävijämäärä on suuri, voi kestää hieman pidempään ennen kuin tietty sivu aukeaa.

Ingalill 20.05.2012 - 20:16:

Är dessa ökningar något utöver de som finns i M1 och M2? Beskrivningen är otydlig -- varför inte göra en gemensamt diagram för M1 och M2? På det 3:e v börjar man öka 1 m på varje sida om den rätst m i mitten, upprepa på vart 4:e v totalt 4 ggr. Öka genom att göra ett omslag, på nästa v stickas omslaget vridet rät (dvs. sticka i den bakre maskbågen i stället för i den främre) för att slippa hål. De ökade m stickas in i rätst.

DROPS Deutsch 30.12.2011 - 18:35:

M1 (9 M.) + 1 M. Krausrippe + M2 (9 M.) = 19 Maschen

Franziska 30.12.2011 - 15:14:

Ich weiß nicht so kenau was ich machen soll nach dem ich die 19 Maschen angeschlagen habe stricke ich M1 und 2 Krausrippe und dann M2?

DROPS Design NL 11.05.2010 - 13:34:

Beste Dragica. U begint met de 19 st en meerdert zoals er wordt aangegeven. U breit eerst op de goede kant: M.1 (9 st), 1 ribbelst en M.2 (9 st). In deze eerste naald zijn er 2 omslagen in zowel M.1 als M.2. Dwz, u meerdert hier 4 st. Brei de teruggaande naald (2e rij van het telpatroon. Brei door zoals beschreven. Ik hoop dat het nu duidelijker is. Gr. Tine

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