DROPS / 120 / 34

Taffy by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS socks in 2 threads ”Fabel”.

Tags: lace, socks,
  • Taffy / DROPS 120-34 - Crochet DROPS socks in 2 threads ”Fabel”.
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-114
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Leg length: approx 26 - 27 - 28 cm
Foot length: approx 23 - 24 - 27 cm
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g colour no 903, yellow/pink mix
50-50-100 g colour no 911, fun lilac
50-50-100 g colour no 910, sea mist

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 14 tr x 9 tr/rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
STRIPES:
Crochet each round with 2 threads Fabel in stripes as follows: * 2 rounds with 1 thread Fun lilac + 1 thread yellow/pink mix, 2 rounds with 1 thread Sea mist + 1 thread yellow/pink mix *, repeat from *-*.
DECREASING TIP:
Dec 1 tr/dc as follows:
Crochet 1 tr/dc, but wait with the last pull-through, crochet next tr/dc, but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 dec tr/dc.
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SOCKS:
Crochet from top down.
Crochet 42-44-47 ch with crochet hook size 4.5 mm with 1 thread sea mist + 1 thread yellow/pink mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Continue in the round as follows:
Crochet 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the first 1-3-1 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 34-36-38 tr. Crochet 1 round with 1 tr in each tr.
Now continue in STRIPES - see above - and as follows:
ROUND 3: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the first 9 tr, * skip 1 tr, 2 tr (= 1 tr-group) in next tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 7-8-9 times, 1 tr in each of the last 10 tr and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
There are now 20 tr and 7-8-9 tr-groups on round.
ROUND 4: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the first 9 tr, 2 tr (= 1 tr-group) between last tr and first tr-group from previous round, 1 tr-group between all tr-groups (= 6-7-8 times), 1 tr in each of the last 10 tr and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the first 9 tr, 1 tr-group between all tr-groups from previous round (6-7-8 times), 1 tr-group between the last tr-group and the first tr from previous round, 1 tr in each of the next 10 tr and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Repeat round 4 and 5. AT THE SAME TIME on 8th round dec 1 tr each side of 3 ch mid back - see DECREASING TIP! There are now 18 tr and 7-8-9 tr-groups on round.
Repeat the dec on 18th round. There are now 16 tr and 7-8-9 tr-groups on round. Continue until there are 19-20-21 rounds, piece measures approx 21-22-23 cm. Now crochet heel as follows:

HEEL:
Crochet the heel in the 2 threads used on the last round before heel.
Crochet 1 ch, then 1 sl st in 3rd ch from previous row, and 1 sl st in each of the first 7 tr. Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each of the 8 sl sts, then 1 dc in each of the next 8 tr = 16 dc (= heel-sts). Turn piece (next row = from RS). Now crochet dc back and forth on heel-sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc - see DECREASING TIP - each side on every row until 8 dc remain. Turn piece (next row = from RS). Insert a marker.
Crochet 1 dc in each dc, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of every row crochet 2 new dc along the side on heel. AT THE SAME TIME at beg of every row dec 1 dc. Continue like this until there are 16 dc on row again – you have now crochet in all the rows along the side of heel. Continue in the round.

FOOT:
Continue with Stripes as before.
Work 4 dc between heel-sts and last row on leg before heel. Then crochet 1 tr-group between heel-sts and first tr-group from last row before heel. Now crochet 1 tr-group between all tr-groups on upper foot (= 6-7-8 times), 4 dc between tr-group on upper foot and heel-sts, 1 sl st in each of the next 8 dc on heel and 1 sl st in the next dc. Round now beg here = mid under foot.
ROUND 1: Crochet 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the first 11 dc, 1 tr-group between all tr-groups from previous row (= 6-7-8 tr-groups), 1 tr-group between the last tr-group and first dc from previous row and 1 tr in each of the last 12 dc/sl sts. There are now 24 tr under foot and 7-8-9 tr-groups on upper foot.
ROUND 2: Crochet 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the first 9 tr, dec 1 tr, crochet 1 tr-group between the last tr and first tr-group from previous round, then 1 tr-group between all tr-groups (= 6-7-8 times), dec 1 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 10 tr and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. You have now dec 1 tr each side of tr-group on upper foot = 22 tr under foot and 7-8-9 tr-groups on upper foot.
ROUND 3: Crochet 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the first 10 tr, 1 tr-group between each tr-group from previous round (= 6-7-8 tr-groups), 1 tr-group between the last tr-group and first tr from previous round, 1 tr in each of the last 11 tr.
Repeat round 2 and 3 a total of 6-6-7 times. Piece now measures approx 19-19-22 cm from marker on heel and there are 12-12-10 tr under foot and 7-8-9 tr-groups on upper foot.

TOE:
Crochet the toe in the 2 threads used on the last round before toe.
Crochet 1 ch, then 1 dc in each st and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 26-28-28 dc.
Insert a marker each side with 12-13-13 dc on upper foot and under foot. Continue in the round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 dc each side on every other round as follows: Work round until 1 dc before dc with marker, work 1 dc but wait with the last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in dc with marker but wait with the last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), work 1 dc in next dc, but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook = 2 dec dc.
Dec like this each side 3-4-4 times = 14-12-12 dc on round. Work 1 round with 1 dc in each dc. Cut the thread. Place the sock flat and sew toe tog. Fasten threads.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 06.09.2016
SOCKS:
Crochet 42-44-47 ch (not 41-43-46 ch)
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 120-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (74)

country flag Araceli Flores 22.09.2020 - 04:40:

Es posible tener este maravilloso patrón en español? tengo muchas ganas de hacerlo, pero me es imposible.... si puedo acceder a el... por favor letme know

user icon DROPS Design 27.09.2020 kl. 19:28:

Hola Araceli. Aquí tienes el link del patrón en español: https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=4389&cid=23

country flag Claucette 26.02.2019 - 15:46:

I do love these socks and have started to make my first pair. I have a problem in the very beginning . What does 1 dc in the each of the first 1-3-1 chain mean. I'm lost. Thank you for your help.

user icon DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 15:53:

Dear Claucette, depending on your size, you will crochet 1 dc in the first 1 chain (= 1st and 2nd size) and in the first 3 chains (=2nd size). Happy crocheting!

country flag VÉRONIQUE 12.11.2017 - 15:33:

Comment faire au 3ème tour * sauter 1B,2B (=1groupe de B) dans la B suivante *

user icon DROPS Design 13.11.2017 kl. 10:00:

Bonjour Véronique, après les 9 premières brides du tour, (sautez la bride suivante, et crochetez 2 brides dans la bride suivante), répétez de (à) 7-8-9 fois au total (cf taille), et terminez par 1 bride dans chacune des 10 dernières brides. Bon crochet!

Christine 14.07.2017 - 18:46:

Hi, I am busy with the 5th round ..... where do I do the 1st tr group. It says between all the groups, but if I do that after the 9th tr, then there is a large gap from there to between the first 2 groups. If I do a tr group in the stitch directly after the 9 tr then I end up with too many groups?? Am I making sense .......??

user icon DROPS Design 17.07.2017 kl. 08:09:

Dear Christine, work 1 tr-group between 1st tr-group and 2nd tr-group (the tr-group on row 5 will be straight above the tr-groups on row 3). Happy crocheting!

country flag Maria 14.10.2016 - 20:44:

I have been crocheting for over 40 years and am having trouble with this pattern. After my initial chain and sl st, I am lost. What does 1dc in each of the first 1-3-1ch mean? I understand the double crochet, but what is 1-3-1ch?? I have tried several things, but keep having to rip out.

user icon DROPS Design 16.10.2016 kl. 13:16:

Dear Maria, the different number means different sizes, so, for example, if you're working size 35/37, you've to crochet 42 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then you've to continue in the round working 3 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc in the first 1 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 34 dc. Happy crocheting!

country flag Lena 29.09.2016 - 08:20:

Ursäkta, såg nu att jag fått svar 😊, tack!

country flag Lena 29.09.2016 - 08:17:

Hej! Skrev en fråga 14/8 men har inte fått svar. Kan jag förvänta mig ett svar? Om inte försöker jag mig på att virka något annat....

user icon DROPS Design 29.09.2016 kl. 10:45:

Ser du har set dit svar. Fint og god fornöjelse videre

country flag Lena 14.08.2016 - 15:33:

Ska "sömmen" (med de 3 lm ) bak på benet och under foten vara sned? Jag har tittat på videon för att virka runt med st men det blir ändå snett. Sedan undrar jag om man på v 4 (strl 38/40) efter sista st-gr ska hoppa över en maska innan man gör dom 10 sista? Jag har 11 maskor kvar. På v 5 får jag 1:a st-gr mellan sista st och första st-gr på v 4, varför blir det så? Enda sättet att få st-gr på v 5 mellan st-gr på v 4 är att jag hoppar över 2 maskor innan jag gör första st-gr.

user icon DROPS Design 15.09.2016 kl. 12:58:

Hej Lena. Nej, sömmen skal blive paa samme sted, du skal sörge for ikke at forskyde starten. Laeg maerke til vi har lavet en lille rettelse i antal af masker d. 6/9, maaske hjaelper det med dit problem senere :)

Kate 30.06.2016 - 18:04:

I've chained 46 to start, but the next round always comes out as 37 dc not 38 as the pattern states?! I don't understand why. Any advice appreciated. Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 30.06.2016 kl. 19:23:

Dear Kate, in the larger size, you start with 46 ch, then to avoid that the fundation chain will tighten piece, you will skip chains evenly on 1st round, ie (UK-English - see US here): Crochet 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in the first ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch*, repeat from *-*, you can then skip 1 ch less and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round to get the 38 tr. Happy crocheting!

country flag Mareen 14.04.2016 - 21:30:

Hallo! Ich verstehe leider den zweiten Absatz der Anleitung für die Ferse nicht. Kann da vielleicht jemand helfen? Vielen Dank!

user icon DROPS Design 15.04.2016 kl. 07:25:

Liebe Mareen, Sie häkeln über die 16 Fersenmaschen und nehmen am Anfang und am Ende jeder R je 1 M ab, bis Sie noch 8 Maschen haben, dann nehmen Sie im gleichen Rhythmus wieder auf, bis Sie wieder 16 M haben. Das ist dann die Ferse.

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