DROPS / 120 / 21

DROPS 120-21 by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS sleeveless top with rib and cables in ”Paris”. Size S to XXXL.

Tags: cable, tops, v-neck, vests,
DROPS design: Pattern no W-387.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
NOTE: Because of the rib the piece will be slightly elastic and therefore seem smaller than measurements in chart, but knit your usual size.

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 16, white

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm – or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS SILVER BUTTON, no 533:
5-5-5-6-6-6 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.55 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 0.65 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.55 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.85£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
DECREASING TIP-1 (applies to armhole):
Make all dec from RS inside 3 garter sts.
Dec as follows after 3 garter sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows 2 sts before 3 garter sts: K2 tog.
DECREASING TIP-2 (applies to neckline):
Dec inside 6 front band sts in garter st + 5 sts in pattern (= 11 sts). Make all dec from RS!
Dec as follows after 11 sts: P2 tog.
Dec as follows 2 sts before 11 sts: P2 tog into back of loop.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = cast off 4th front band st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on next row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 6, 12, 18, 24 and 30 cm.
Size M: 7, 13, 19, 25 and 31 cm.
Size L: 8, 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm.
Size XL: 8, 13, 18, 23, 28 and 33 cm.
Size XXL: 7, 12, 18, 23, 29 and 34 cm.
Size XXXL: 8, 13, 19, 24, 30 and 35 cm.
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BACK PIECE:
Cast on 80-94-101-115-129-136 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm with Paris. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see above, K2, * P4, K3 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain and finish with P4, K2 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST. When piece measures 4 cm work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, K2, * P4, K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, P4, 10-17-17-24-24-24 stocking sts, * P4, K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-2-3-3-3-4 times, P4, 10-17-17-24-24-24 stocking sts, * P4, K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, P4, K2 and 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue like this with K over K, P over P and edge sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 7 cm dec as follows from RS: dec all P4 (= 9-9-10-10-12-13 times) to P3 by P tog the 2 first P sts = 71-85-91-105-117-123 sts. When piece measures 14 cm dec the same 9-9-10-10-12-13 P-sections (from RS) from P3 to P2 by P tog the last 2 P sts = 62-76-81-95-105-110 sts. When piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm inc as follows from RS: inc all P2 to P3 (= 9-9-10-10-12-13 times) by making 1 YO between the 2 P sts = 71-85-91-105-117-123 sts. On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm work garter st on 6-6-6-12-12-12 sts each side, with remaining sts as before. Continue like this until piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm. Now cast off 3-3-3-9-9-9 sts each side for armhole (i.e. cast off at beg of the next 2 rows) and cast off to shape the armhole– see DECREASING TIP-1: 1 st on every row from RS a total of 0-6-6-6-6-6 times = 65-67-73-75-87-93 sts.
Continue with K over K, P over P and 3 garter sts each side. When piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm - adjust so that next row is from RS – dec 5-5-7-7-7-9 sts evenly on the middle 15-15-21-21-21-27 sts (i.e. dec P3 to P2 and dec K3 to K2 mid back), work remaining sts as before = 60-62-66-68-80-84 sts. On next row (= WS) continue in garter st on the middle 28-30-32-34-34-38 sts with remaining sts as before. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm cast off the middle 16-18-20-22-22-26 sts for neck = 22-22-23-23-29-29 sts left on each shoulder and complete each shoulder separately. Continue with K over K, P over P, 6 garter sts towards neck and 3 garter sts towards armhole until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 45-52-59-66-73-73 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 6 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 4 mm with Paris. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows from mid front (first row = RS): 6 front band sts in GARTER ST, M.1A (= 25-25-25-25-32-32 sts), * P4, K3 *, repeat from *-* until 7 st remain, and finish with P4, K2 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST.
When piece measures 4 cm work M.1B instead of M.1A (with remaining sts as before). REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES ON FRONT BAND - see above. When piece measures 7 cm dec as follows from RS: dec all P4 (= 2-3-4-5-5-5 times) to P3 by P tog the 2 first P sts = 43-49-55-61-68-68 sts. When piece measures 14 cm dec the same 2-3-4-5-5-5 P-sections (from RS) from P3 to P2 by P tog the last 2 P sts = 41-46-51-56-63-63 sts. When piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm inc as follows from RS: Inc all P2 to P3 (2-3-4-5-5-5 times) by making 1 YO between the 2 P sts = 43-49-55-61-68-68 sts. On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
NOW READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
When piece measures approx 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm (approx 1 cm after last buttonhole on front band) K 2 rows back and forth on the 6 front band sts only. Continue on all sts as before, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS dec 1 st towards mid front for neck – see DECREASING TIP-2, and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 10-10-17-17-16-16 times and then on every 4th row a total of 6-6-4-4-5-5 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm work garter st on 6-6-6-12-12-12 sts at the side (work remaining sts as before). Continue like this until piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm (adjust so that next row is from WS). Now cast off 3-3-3-9-9-9 sts at the side for armhole. On next row (from RS) cast off 1 st to shape the armhole – see DECREASING TIP-1, and repeat the dec on every row from RS a total of 0-6-6-6-6-6 times.
When all dec for armhole and neck are complete there are 24-24-25-25-32-32 sts left on shoulder. Continue with K over K, P over P, 6 garter sts towards neck and 3 garter sts towards armhole until piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm. Now dec 1 st each of the 2-2-2-2-3-3 cables in M.1 = 22-22-23-23-29-29 sts left on needle. Cast off with K over K and P over P when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece but mirrored and work M.2 instead of M.1 in order to mirror the pattern mid front.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams - sew in outer loops of sts. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 6 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K4, slip the last 2 sts from cable needle back on left needle, K2, K4 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 120-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Uta Grosse 10.12.2018 - 12:15:

Wird auf dem Rückenteil auch ein Zopfmuster gearbeitet?? Danke

DROPS Design 10.12.2018 kl. 12:34:

Liebe Frau Grosse, das Zopfmuster wird nur auf beiden Vorderteilen gestrickt, beim Rückenteil stricken Sie Bündchen (es wird dann in den Bündchen zuerst ab- und dann zugenommen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Barbro 17.09.2012 - 14:36:

Stickar denna underbara väst, men skulle vilja ha den stora flätan spegelvänd på vänstra framstycket (för att göra det helt spegelvänt gentemot det högra). Hur gör jag då? Nybörjare på flätstickning.

DROPS Design 04.12.2012 kl. 14:36:

Jo på venstre forstk strikker du bare efter M.2 istedet for M.1 som du strikkede efter på højre forstk. Diagrammet er spejlvendt!

Elena 29.05.2012 - 23:07:

I figured this out, I would suggest you change the way you word the section about repeat. eg. *P4 K3* Repeat from *to* once. 2 times in total suggests 2 repeats in addition to the first P4K3.

Elena 29.05.2012 - 17:27:

I can't get this pattern to work. I have 115 stitches and have completed the 4cm. The next row requires 126 stitches to work. Is there an increase rown which is missing or is this row incorrect?

DROPS Design 29.04.2011 - 14:33:

Hej Katarina, du skall fortsätta flätmönstret med samma antal varv mellan varje fläta. Om vi skulle ritat in en fläta till hadde det blivit fel antal rader ( det skall vara 15) mellan flätorna. Lycka till!

Katarina 29.04.2011 - 10:10:

MEN det är ju det som är problemet!!!!! Om jag ska ha 15 rader mellan den stora flätan så förskjuts de små flätorna så att mönstret inte går att använda. Man kan inte ha ett mönster med tomma rutor, hur ska dom då stickas????

DROPS Design 28.04.2011 - 12:02:

Nei, radene kan ikke slettes frodi man strikker 15 rader mellom flettene.

Katarina 24.04.2011 - 17:29:

Mönsterdiagrammet över mönster M1B har 2 helt tomma rader längst upp, det verkar inte stämma. Borde nog rättas!

Leida 04.02.2010 - 13:11:

Ik ben dit vestje aan het maken, wordt heel mooi maar bij de maat XXL eindig je met 2 kabeltjes op het voorpand en niet, zoals beschreven, met 3. Zeker een aanrader om te maken.

Mary Jane 23.01.2010 - 21:55:

Very cute

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