DROPS / 114 / 8

Viking Knots by DROPS Design

DROPS jumper with cables in ”Alpaca” with 3/4 sleeves or long sleeves. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-442.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA
Colour no 618, light beige:
3/4 sleeves:
250-300-350-350-400-450 g
Long sleeves:
300-350-400-400-450-500 g

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm –
or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 107-121-135-142-163-177 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st, * K3, P4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. When rib measures 2 cm K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 9-13-17-12-19-19 sts evenly = 98-108-118-130-144-158 sts. Change to needle size 3 mm. P 1 row from WS and continue in stocking st with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 9 cm dec 1 st each side, repeat the dec on every 2 cm a total of 5 times = 88-98-108-120-134-148 sts. When piece measures 20-21-21-20-20-21 cm inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 3-3-3.5-4-4.5-4.5 cm a total of 5 times = 98-108-118-130-144-158 sts. When piece measures 38-40-41-41-42-44 cm cast off 4 sts each side for armhole and cast off for armhole each side on every other row: 4 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 2-3-5-6-8-9 times and 1 st 0-2-2-1-2-2 times = 82-84-86-88-92-94 sts. Continue in stocking st on all sts. When piece measures 54-57-59-60-62-65 cm cast off the middle 32-34-34-36-38-40 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on every other row 2 times = 23-23-24-24-25-25 sts left on shoulder. Cast off loosely when piece measures 57-60-62-63-65-68 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work like back piece until piece measures 20-21-21-20-20-21 cm. On next row inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 3-3-3.5-4-4.5-4.5 cm a total of 5 times = 98-108-118-130-144-158 sts. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge st each until piece measures 33-34-35-36-39-40 cm. Now continue as follows (from RS): 1 edge st, 33-38-43-49-56-63 stocking sts, M.1 (= 30 sts), 33-38-43-49-56-63 stocking sts and 1 edge st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 38-40-41-41-42-44 cm cast off for armhole each side as described for back piece. Continue up to arrow-A in M.1. On next row from RS cast off for neck as follows: work the first 24 sts of M.1, cast off 2 sts (= mid front) and work the remaining 24 sts of M.1 (work remaining sts in stocking st as before). Insert a marker in piece, and now complete each side separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue back and forth on needle in stocking st and M.1 as before – remember to cast off for armhole at the side! AT THE SAME TIME on next row from mid front dec 1 st for neck. Continue to arrow-B in diagram for M.1. Now continue with 15 sts rib as shown in M.1, work remaining sts in stocking st as before. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st for neck inside the 15 sts in rib, and repeat the dec on every 4th row 3-4-4-5-6-7 times = 38-38-39-39-40-40 sts.
Continue until piece measures 11-12-12-13-13-14 cm from marker (adjust to length of armhole on back piece). Now cast off 23-23-24-24-25-25 sts from shoulder towards neckline = 15 sts left on needle. Continue back and forth on needle in rib as before on these 15 sts. Cast off loosely with K over K and P over P after approx 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm (measured from shoulder).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece but mirrored.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.

3/4 SLEEVES:
Worked back and forth on needle.
LEFT SLEEVE:
Cast on 65-65-72-72-72-79 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st, * P4, K3 *, repeat from *-* on 21-21-28-28-28-28 sts, M.2 (= 18 sts), K3, *P4, K3 *, repeat from *-* on the next 21-21-21-21-21-28 sts and 1 edge st. Continue like this up to Arrow-C in M.2. There are now 73-73-80-80-80-87 sts on needle. Change to needle size 3 mm. Continue as follows (from RS): 1 edge st, 21-21-28-28-28-28 stocking sts, M.2 (= 26 sts), 24-24-24-24-24-31 stocking sts and 1 edge st. Work 1 vertical repeat of M.2 like this = 65-65-72-72-72-79 sts on needle. Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here.
Continue in stocking st with 1 edge st each side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx 2 cm from marker inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 1.5-1-1-0.5- 0.5-0.5 cm a total of 8-11-11-14-17-17 times = 81-87-94-100-106-113 sts. When piece measures 17-16-16-15-14-12 cm from marker (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off 4 sts each side. Cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row: 2 sts 4-5-5-5-4-4 times each side and 1 st 3-3-5-5-11-14 times each side, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 24-24-25-25-26-26 cm, now cast off 4 sts each side 1 time, and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures a total of approx 43-43-44-44-45-45 cm.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Cast on 65-65-72-72-72-79 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work rib as follows (first row = from RS): 1 edge st, * K3, P4 *, repeat from *-* on 21-21-21-21-21-28 sts, K3, M.2 (= 18 sts), * K3, P4 *, repeat from *-* on the next 21-21-28-28-28-28 sts and 1 edge st. Continue like this up to Arrow-C in M.2. There are now 73-73-80-80-80-87 sts on needle. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue as follows (from RS): 1 edge st, 24-24-24-24-24-31 stocking sts, M.2 (= 26 sts), 21-21-28-28-28-28 stocking sts and 1 edge st. Work 1 vertical repeat of M.2 like this = 65-65-72-72-72-79 sts on needle. Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here. Continue as described for Left Sleeve.


LONG SLEEVES:
Worked back and forth on needle.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Cast on 58-58-65-65-65-72 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st, * P4, K3 *, repeat from *-* on 21-21-21-21-21-28 sts, M.2 (= 18 sts), K3, * P4, K3 *, repeat from *-* on the next 14-14-21-21-21-21 sts and 1 edge st. Continue like this up to Arrow-C in M.2. There are now 66-66-73-73-73-80 sts on needle. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue as follows (from RS): 1 edge st, 21-21-21-21-21-28 stocking sts, M.2 (= 26 sts), 17-17-24-24-24-24 stocking sts and 1 edge st. Work 1 vertical repeat of M.2 like this = 58-58-65-65-65-72 sts on needle. Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge st each side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx 1-2-2-1-1-1 cm from marker inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 2.5-1.5-1.5-1.5-1-1 cm a total of 12-15-15-18-21-21 times = 82-88-95-101-107-114 sts. When piece measures 31-31-30-30-28-27 cm from marker (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off for 4 sts each side for sleeve cap and cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row: 2 sts 4-5-5-5-4-4 times each side and 1 st 3-3-5-5-11-14 times each side, then cast off 2 sts each side until piece measures 38-39-39-40-40-41 cm, now cast off 4 sts each side 1 time, and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures a total of approx 57-58-58-59-59-60 cm.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Cast on 58-58-65-65-65-72 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st, * K3, P4 *, repeat from *-* on 14-14-21-21-21-21 sts, K3, M.2 (= 18 sts), * K3, P4 *, repeat from *-* on the next 21-21-21-21-21-28 sts and 1 edge st. Continue like this up to Arrow-C in M.2. There are now 66-66-73-73-73-80 sts on needle. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue as follows (from RS): 1 edge st, 17-17-24-24-24-24 stocking sts, M.2 (= 26 sts), 21-21-21-21-21-28 stocking sts and 1 edge st. Work 1 vertical repeat of M.2 like this = 58-58-65-65-65-72 sts on needle. Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here. Continue as described for Left Sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew rib on neck tog mid back and sew to back piece.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle.
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle.
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, work first st on needle tog with first st on cable needle a total of 3 times.
= P2 tog
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, work first st on cable needle tog with first st on needle a total of 3 times.
= K2 tog


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 114-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (119)

Ale 14.04.2020 - 12:55:

Buongiorno, Non capisco come va fatta la ripetizione del motivo M2 in verticale nelle maniche. Si passa da 73 a 65 maglie, in che modo? A cosa si riferiscono le 65 maglie? Grazie

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 14:15:

Buongiorno Ale. 65 è il numero di maglie che rimane sui ferri dopo aver lavorato tutto il diagramma M2 in verticale. Il diagramma M2 inizia su 26 maglie e per via delle diminuzioni nel diagramma stesso, finisce su 18 maglie. In questo modo le maglie della manica passano da 73 a 65. Buon lavoro!

Petra 05.03.2020 - 21:46:

AFWERKING: Naai de schoudernaden dicht. Naai de mouwen in het lijf. Naai de mouw- en zijnaden dicht in de kant st. *Naai het boord samen middenachter en naai het boord aan de hals van het achterpand.* Ik kan nergens in het patroon iets over een boord vinden!

DROPS Design 10.03.2020 kl. 19:43:

Dag Petra,

Bij beide voorpanden heb je, nadat je hebt afgekant voor de schouder, een stukje doorgebreid over 15 steken. Dit is het stukje boord wat bedoeld wordt.

Nanna Kristensen 19.01.2020 - 16:50:

Forvirring omkring opskrift nr. I starten står Model nr. Z-442. Længere nede står 124-8. Hvorfor I opskriften under MØNSTER står: Diag viser mønsteret set fra retsiden. Opskriften angiver ikke at skulle strikkes på rundpind, jeg mener derfor der mellem hver linie i mønsteret skal strikkes en ren v-pind. MEN - når man så læser DIAGRAM forklaring fremstår det anderledes, f.eks. Vrang fra retsiden, ret fra vrang osv. osv. Jeg er erfaren strikker, men forstår intet?

DROPS Design 30.01.2020 kl. 08:14:

Hej Nanna, hver 2.pind strikker du fra vrangen, men diagrammet er tegnet som det ser ud fra retsiden. Se her hvordan du strikker efter diagram

Astrid Wentink 12.12.2019 - 21:31:

Goedendag, Ik had een mail gestuurd maar ben er inmiddels achter, ik heb gewoon geen meerderingen gemaakt, deze tekens waren erg moeilijk te zien.

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 13:43:

Dag Astrid,

Dankjewel voor de terugkoppeling en veel breiplezier!

Astrid Wentink 08.12.2019 - 16:38:

Ik kom niet aan 38 steken met het voorpand in maat s op het laatste stuk. ik begin met 98 steken, per armsgat 8 steken afkanten, totaal 16 steken, over 82 steken, dan bij A 2 steken afkanten, daarna nog 2 steken afkanten, over 78 steken, dus 38 plus kantsteek, 39 steken per pand maar dan bij B per pand 8 steken minderen en nog 3 keer 1 steek per pand dus dan kom ik op 28 steken en kan ik dus nooit 23 steken voor de schouder afkanten en 15 steken overhouden. Ik begrijp niet wat ik fout doe?

Kaz 21.09.2019 - 02:37:

I am doing the front cable pattern but don't understand what is meant: "1 YO between 2 sts, on next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. "...does this mean an extra stitch is created due to the YO so the width gets larger, or do you have to knit the YO together with adjacent stitch in the next row to avoid the hole?? I don't work well off charts, and wondered if there are any row instructions for the cable pattern??

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 10:21:

Dear Kaz, yes correct, you will increase by making a yarn over (first one after the P1 and 2nd one before the P1). - read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

Yolma 25.04.2019 - 16:45:

Lindo trabajo. Gracias por comentar sin egoísmos.

Janice Lehman 02.04.2019 - 18:25:

What is the edge stitch in this pattern? I cannot find any instructions for it?

DROPS Design 03.04.2019 kl. 08:37:

Dear Mrs Lehman, the edge stitches are worked for the seam allowance, you can work it in garter stitch, in stocking stitch or with chain edge as you are used to. Happy knitting!

Ute Stieg 28.03.2019 - 12:55:

Hallo,wenn ich in der 3./4. Reihe vom Muster eine Masche zunehme, und dann die linkeMasche um 1 verschiebe, habe ich aber 8 rechte Maschen in der Mitte ?! MfG Ute

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 16:35:

Liebe Frau Stieg, bei der 3. Reihe stricken Sie (in der Mitte): 1 M lli, 1 Umschlag, 4 M re, 1 Umschlag, 1 M li - bei der nächsten Reihe (Rückreihe) ahben Sie dann 1 M re, 6 M li, 1 M re (= 6 M re zwischen 1 M li von der Vorderseite gesehen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

ALBERT-GIGANON MARIE-CLAUDE 13.02.2019 - 12:52:

Pouvez-vous me préciser les mensurations exactes (en cm) des manches longues dans la largeur et en taille M (au départ, au niveau de la flèche C, au bout des 58cm - 9cm ainsi qu'à la fin des 9cm. Merci. amc

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 13:24:

Bonjour Mme Albert-Giganon, nous n'avons pas ces mesures, mais si votre tension est correcte, vous devriez avoir les bonnes dimensions, comme dans le schéma, et comme sur la photo, ajusté à chaque taille. Bon tricot!

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