DROPS / 111 / 1

Domino Effect by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with domino squares in ”Fabel”. Size S - XXXL.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour no 911, fun lilac

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Make sure to adhere to the knitting tension, length wise as well as width wise. DROPS SILVER BUTTON no 534:
4-4-4-4-5-5 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DOMINO SQUARE:
1 Domino square: (= 159-177-193-209-227-245sts):
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): work row until 1 st before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, work remaining sts on row.
Row 3: K all sts.
Row 4: Like row 2.
Row 5: Work row until 1 st before marker, K3 tog, work remaining sts on row.
Row 6: Like row 2.
Row 7: K all sts.
Row 8: Like row 2.
Row 9: K all sts.
Row 10: Like row 2.
Repeat row 1 to 10 until there is 1 st left on needle. Cut the thread and pull through remaining st.

HALF DOMINO SQUARE:
1 Half Domino square (= 133-149-161-173-189-201 sts):
Row 1 (= WS): Work row until 1 st remain, slip this st on stitch holder-1.
Row 2 (= RS): Work row until 1 st before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, work sts on row until 1 st remain, slip this st on stitch holder-2. Repeat row 1 and 2 until there is 1 st left on needle and 33-37-40-43-47-50 sts on each stitch holder.

QUARTER DOMINO SQUARE:
1 quarter Domino square:
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts, with 10 front band sts in P sts.
Row 2 (= RS): P 10 front band sts, K2 tog, work row until 1 st remain, slip this st on stitch holder-1.
Repeat row 1 and 2 until there are 11 sts left on needle (includes 10 front band sts) and 33-37-40-43-47-50 sts on stitch holder-1.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = cast off 5th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 23, 28, 34 and 40 cm.
SIZE M: 25, 31, 37 and 44 cm.
SIZE L: 27, 34, 41 and 48 cm.
SIZE XL: 29, 36, 44 and 52 cm.
SIZE XXL: 31, 37, 43, 49 and 56 cm
SIZE XXXL: 33, 39, 45, 51 and 58 cm
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BACK PIECE, PART 1:
Worked in garter st throughout, i.e. K all rows. Cast on 129-143-157-171-185-199 sts on needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Work 2 cm garter st on all sts. Insert a marker in the middle st (= mid back). Continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st (by K2 tog) each side as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): dec 1 st each side.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3: dec 1 st each side.
Row 4: dec 1 st each side.
Row 5: dec 1 st each side.
Row 6: K all sts.
Row 7: dec 1 st each side.
Row 8: dec 1 st each side.
Row 9: dec 1 st each side.
Row 10: K all sts.
Repeat from row 1 to 10 a total of 9-10-11-12-13-14 times = 3 sts left on needle. Work next row from RS as follows: slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso = 1 st left on needle. Cut the thread and pull through remaining st. Piece now measures approx 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from casting on row to the top of square.

LEFT FRONT PIECE PART 1:
Cast on 75-82-89-96-103-110 sts (includes 10 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Work 2 cm garter st with 10 front band sts in P sts towards mid front – P front band sts on every row throughout. Insert a marker inside the 10 front band sts. Continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st (by K2 tog) at the side as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): dec 1 st at the side.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts (continue to P front band sts).
Row 3: dec 1 st at the side.
Row 4: dec 1 st at the side.
Row 5: dec 1 st at the side.
Row 6: K all sts (continue to P front band sts).
Row 7: dec 1 st at the side.
Row 8: dec 1 st at the side.
Row 9: dec 1 st at the side.
Row 10: K all sts (continue to P front band sts).
Repeat from row 1 to 10 a total of 9-10-11-12-13-14 times = 12 sts left on needle. Work next row from RS as follows: K2 tog, cut thread and pull through st created by K2 tog, slip the remaining 10 front band sts on a stitch holder. Piece now measures approx 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from cast on row to the top of square.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE PART 1:
Like left front piece, but mirrored.

BACK PIECE/RIGHT FRONT PIECE PART 2:
Pick up 79-88-96-104-113-122 sts along the side on right front piece (part 1), beg inside front band sts on stitch holder and pick up sts to where the dec at the side of Part 1 started (i.e. 2 cm at the bottom of front piece and back piece are left “open” and will be sewn tog later). Cast on 1 st between front piece and back piece, and pick up 79-88-96-104-113-122 sts along the right side on back piece (part 1) up to the point (= mid back) = a total of 159-177-193-209-227-245 sts on needle. Insert a marker in the middle st (= mid side). Now work Domino square, see above.

BACK PIECE/LEFT FRONT PIECE PART 2:
Beg at the point mid back on back piece. Pick up 79-88-96-104-113-122 sts along the side to where the dec at the side on Part 1 started (i.e. 2 cm at the bottom of front piece and back piece are left “open” and will be sewn tog later). Cast on 1 st between back piece and front piece, and pick up 79-88-96-104-113-122 sts along the side on front piece up to front band sts on stitch holder = a total of 159-177-193-209-227-245 sts on needle. Insert a marker in the middle st (= mid side). Now work Domino square.

BACK PIECE PART 3:
Pick up 66-74-80-86-94-100 sts (from RS) from the point at the top of Domino square at the right side and down along the edge to where the 2 Domino squares meet mid back, pick up 1 st between the 2 squares and pick up 66-74-80-86-94-100 sts along the side to the top of the Domino square on the left side = a total of 133-149-161-173-189-201 sts on needle. Insert a marker in the middle st. Now work Half Domino square – see above.

BACK PIECE PART 4:
Keep the 1 st on needle and slip sts from stitch holder-1 and stitch holder-2 back on needle. K 1 row, AT THE SAME TIME pick up 28-30-34-40-47-55 sts evenly among the sts slipped back on needle = 95-105-115-127-142-156 sts. Insert a marker in piece, now measure piece from here. Continue in garter st back and forth on needle on all sts. When piece measures approx 6 cm from marker cast off 3-3-3-4-4-4 sts each side for armhole and cast off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-2-3 times, 2 sts 0-2-4-4-5-6 times and 1 st 2-2-2-3-4-5 times = 85-87-89-91-94-96 sts left on needle. Continue in garter st back and forth on needle until piece measures 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm from marker. Now cast off the middle 21-23-25-27-30-32 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on every other row a total of 3 times = 29 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm from marker, piece now measures a total of approx 65-70-75-80-85-90 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE PART 3:
Remember BUTTONHOLES – see above. Slip 10 front band sts back on needle. Pick up (from RS) 1 st between front band and the point at the side of Domino square, then pick up 66-74-80-86-94-100 sts along the side of the Domino square up to the point at the side of jacket = 77-85-91-97-105-111 sts on needle. Insert a marker in the st between front band and Domino square. Continue to P front band sts on every row. Now work Quarter Domino square – see above.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE PART 4:
Keep the 11 sts on needle and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle. K 1 row, AT THE SAME TIME pick up 14-16-17-20-22-27 sts evenly among sts slipped back on needle = 58-64-68-74-80-88 sts (includes 10 front band sts). Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here. Continue in garter st back and forth on needle with front band sts as before. When piece measures approx 6 cm from marker cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 53-55-55-56-56-58 sts. Continue until piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm from marker. Now cast off 29 sts from shoulder towards the neckline = 24-26-26-27-27-29 sts left on needle for collar. Continue in garter st back and forth on needle on collar sts with front band sts as before. When collar measures approx 6-7-7-8-9-9 cm from shoulder, cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE PART 3 AND 4:
Like right front piece, but mirrored and without buttonholes.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-68 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Work garter st until piece measures approx 5 cm. Work 5 rows stocking st and now continue in reverse stocking st. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 3.5-3-2.5-2-1.5-1.5 cm a total of 12-14-15-18-21-22 times = 80-86-90-98-106-112 sts. When piece measures 50-49-49-48-48-46 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 5-5-5-5-5-6 times and 1 st 1-2-4-6-7-7 times, then cast off 2 sts each side until piece measures approx 57-57-58-58-59-59 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time. Cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 58-58-59-59-60-60 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams and sew tog the edge (= 2 cm garter st) towards bottom edge each side. Sew in outer loops of sts. Sew sleeve seam inside 1 edge and set in sleeves. Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 10.01.2011
Back piece: ....
Work next row from RS as follows: slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso = 1 st left on needle.

Diagram



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 111-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (199)

Andrea Blümel 25.07.2019 - 11:01:

Hallo! Habe die Maschenprobe schon mit einer 3,5 er Nadel gestrickt und in der Breite habe ich 0,5 cm zu viel. Vielleicht mit einer 4er Nadel und eine Größe kleiner stricken, also anstatt M stricke ich die Größe S?! Danke für Eure Antwort

DROPS Design 26.07.2019 kl. 09:20:

Liebe Frau Blümel, haben Sie die Maschenprobe in der Mitte eines Probelappens, der ein paar cm größer als 10 x 10 cm ist, gemessen? Das ist wichtig, um die exakte Maschenprobe zu erhalten. Sie können die Maschenprobe auch einmal anfeuchten, in Form ziehen und dann trocknen lassen, dann wieder messen.

Andrea 24.07.2019 - 10:48:

Hallo, habe gerade die Maschenprobe fertig und ich komme nur auf 9 cm bei 42 Reihen! Würde die Strickjacke trotz des Unterschieds von 1 cm in der Höhe was werden? Da bin ich mir sehr unsicher..... Vielen Dank für die Hilfe/Antwort

DROPS Design 24.07.2019 kl. 17:07:

Liebe Andrea, bei diesem Modell ist es tatsächlich wichtig, dass Sie die Maschenprobe auch in der Höhe einhalten. Probieren Sie eine etwas dickere Nadel (1/2 Nadelstärke dicker) und testen Sie, ob die Maschenprobe dann in der Höhe und in der Breite passt.

Anita Schellenberger 14.11.2017 - 10:28:

Danke,für die schnelle antwort,aber ich meinte nicht teil 1 , sondern die Markierung rückenteil/rechtes Vorderteil teil 2. Diese Markierung bleibt bei mir nicht in der Mitte .muss ich den maschenmarkierer immer nach der gestrickten Masche wieder einsetzen,oder zuvor?

DROPS Design 14.11.2017 kl. 11:16:

Liebe Frau Schellenberger, der Markierer muss immer in den mittleren Maschen sein, dh immer in der Mitte von dem Viereck/Dominoquadrat - siehe VIERECK. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Oldörp,Claudia 13.11.2017 - 08:44:

Hi, Ich habe ein Problem mit dem Übergang von dem Rückenteil 3 zu Rückenteil 4 . Am Teil 3 sollte ich die letzten Maschen stilllegen und dann an Teil 4 auf die Nadeln tun und Maschen aufnehmen,das habe ich auch gemacht aber jetzt sind die Maschen ganz lang :-(( Auf den Bildern sieht es aber ganz anders aus ,als wenn da eine Biese ist .

DROPS Design 13.11.2017 kl. 10:56:

Liebe Frau Oldörp, Sie können die stillgelegten Maschen verschränkt stricken, oder je den Faden vor der nächsten stillgelgten Maschen heben und mit dieser Maschen zusammenstricken, damit die Maschen nicht zu hoch werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anita Schellenberger 12.11.2017 - 21:17:

Viereck,Markierungsfaden: 2. Reihe vorderseite. wird din Markierung immer wieder versetzt nach dem abheben? Bei mir wandert die Mittellinie immer mehr nach einer seite,was mache ich falsch?

DROPS Design 13.11.2017 kl. 10:50:

Liebe Frau Schellenberger, im Teil 1 linkem Vorderteil wird der Markierer immer innerhalb die 10 Blendemaschen bleiben (= am Ende der Hinreihe). Die Abnahmen werden am Anfang der Hinreihe gestrickt. Dieses Teil soll wie "Del 1" im Skizze aussehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anita 08.10.2017 - 19:38:

Welche Größe von S-XXXL würden Sie bei Konfektionsgröße 42. Brustumfang 103 empfehlen? Ich trage meine Sachen eher locker. Grüße aus Bayern Schellenberger Anita

DROPS Design 09.10.2017 kl. 09:22:

Liebe Anita, vergleichen Sie die Maßen von der Schnittübersicht mit einer ähnlichen Jacke die Sie gerne haben, so können Sie die beste Größe finden. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Masse. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christine 06.11.2016 - 07:52:

Endlich fertig! Die Jacke ist wunderschön geworden und hat mir schon beim Stricken viel Freude bereitet, weil sie so interessant zu stricken ist. Und die trägt sich ganz wunderbar.

Birgit 23.09.2015 - 01:31:

Im RÜCKENTEIL TEIL 4: ........Weiter bei gegen das Armloch abk.: 3 M. 0-0-0-1-2-3 Mal, 2 M. 0-2-4-4-5-6 Mal und 1 M. 2-2-2-3-4-5 Mal = 85-87-89-91-94-96 M. auf der Nadel....... muss es wohl heissen: Weiter für (gegen) das Armloch in jeder 2.Reihe abk. 3M. ....... MfG Birgit

DROPS Design 27.09.2015 kl. 22:20:

Ja Sie haben Recht, die Angabe, in welchen R abgekettet werden soll, fehlt, das wird gleich ergänzt.

Birgit Niebelschütz 17.09.2015 - 10:13:

Im RÜCKENTEIL TEIL 4: ........Weiter bei gegen das Armloch abk.: 3 M. 0-0-0-1-2-3 Mal, 2 M. 0-2-4-4-5-6 Mal und 1 M. 2-2-2-3-4-5 Mal = 85-87-89-91-94-96 M. auf der Nadel....... muss es wohl heissen: Weiter für (gegen) das Armloch in jeder 2.Reihe abk. 3M. ....... So steht es in der norwegischen Anleitung . MfG Birgit

Brown 25.04.2015 - 22:12:

Ce patron est-il facilement adaptable au tricot à la machine? Merci

DROPS Design 27.04.2015 kl. 10:36:

Bonjour Mme Brown, pour toute assistance avec votre machine à tricoter, nous vous recommandons de contacter votre magasin et/ou un forum spécialisé dans le tricot machine. Bon tricot!

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