DROPS / 113 / 7

Merry Morning by DROPS Design

Wide DROPS top in ”Bomull-Lin”. Size S - XXL.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450 g colour no 02, off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 8 mm – or size needed to get 13 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 33 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm – for border
DROPS Mother-of-pearl button w/hole, no 540: 1 pc.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.50 £ /50g
DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour 2.50 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
MEASUREMENT TIP: Because of the weight of the yarn make all measurements when the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO before the stich before the marker and 1 YO after the stitch after the marker. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Loosely cast on 232-248-272-288-312 sts on circular needle size 8 mm with Bomull-Lin. Insert 8 markers in piece as follows: Marker-1 at beg of round and the next 7 markers with 29-31-34-36-39 sts between each. K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Now K 4 rounds, AT THE SAME TIME begin dec 1 st on each side of Marker-2., -4, -6, and -8 on every other round a total of 27-27-29-29-31 times and AT THE SAME TIME begin inc 1 st on each side of Marker-1, -3, -5 and -7 on every 4th round a total of 13-13-14-14-15 times – SEE INCREASING and DECREASING TIP. After the 4 K rounds, P 1 round and now continue in stocking st. When piece measures approx 38-39-40-41-42 cm – measured where shortest, SEE MEASUREMENT TIP – the dec and inc are complete = 120-136-152-168-184 sts on round. Keep Marker-1 and Marker-5 in piece (= the sides), change to needles size 5 mm and continue in garter st – see above - AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-6-6-6-8 sts evenly on front and back piece = 136-148-164-180-200 sts (68-74-82-90-100 sts on each piece). When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49 cm cast off 3 sts on each side of both markers for armhole and complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE: = 62-68-76-84-94 sts.
Continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 0-1-2-3-5 times = 62-62-64-66-68 sts. When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70 cm cast off the middle 26-26-28-28-30 sts for neck and cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 17-17-17-18-18 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 64-66-68-70-72 cm.

FRONT PIECE: = 62-68-76-84-94 sts.
Continue and cast off for armhole each side as described for back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm divide piece in 2 mid front and complete each side separately. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 5-5-6-6-7 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, and 1 st 5 times. When all dec are complete there are 17-17-17-18-18 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 64-66-68-70-72 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border round armholes with crochet hook size 4.5 mm as follows: 1 dc, * 2 ch, skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Crochet a similar border round neckline and along split. At the top of split on the right side crochet a buttonhole loop as follows: 1 dc in corner, 10 ch, 1 sl st in dc in corner. Sew on button at the top of left split.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.03.2009
INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO before the stich before the marker and 1 YO after the stitch after the marker. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 113-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (75)

Renée 23.02.2019 - 22:46:

Ik vind dit een prachtig patroon maar bijna al jullie patronen worden met een rondbreinaald gebreid. Is er een simpele manier om dit om te zetten naar gewone breinaalden? Groet, Renée

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 09:26:

Dag Renée,

Veel patronen kun je inderdaad ook met rechte naalden breien. In deze les vind je meer informatie over hoe je een patroon omzet om met rechte naalden te breien.

Gabi 25.08.2018 - 17:44:

Liebes Drops Team, was hinten und vorne 8 M aufnehmen welche Makierer sind gemeint? Nach 49 cm auf beiden Seiten der Makierungsfâden je 3 M ablegten. Welche Markierer sind gemeint. Lieben Dank im voraus Liebe Grüße Gabi

DROPS Design 31.08.2018 kl. 11:58:

Antwort siehe unten! :-)

Gabi 24.08.2018 - 12:37:

Liebes Drops - Team, was ist damit gemeint hinten und vorne 8M aufnehmen welche Markierer? Nach 49 cm auf beiden Seiten der Makierungsfâden je 3 M Abk. Welche Makierer sind gemeint? Lieben Dank im voraus Liebe Grüße Gabi

DROPS Design 27.08.2018 kl. 10:32:

Liebe Gabi, die Zunahmen vorne und hinten machen Sie gleichmäßig verteilt, d.h. Sie nehmen am Vorderteil und am Rückenteil jeweils 8 M gleichmäßig verteilt zu. Die je 3 Maschen bei 49 cm ketten Sie an beiden Seiten des 1. und 5. Markierungsfadens ab, d.h. an den Seiten der Tunika, d.h. je 6 Maschen pro Seite werden für die Armausschnitte abgekettet. Weiterhin gutes Gelingen!

Gabriele Heling 16.08.2018 - 20:18:

Liebes Drops - Team, nochmal muss ich nachfragen bei Gr XL 288 M und Gr XXL sind es 312 M, also 24 M mehr, dann kann es doch nicht stimmen das es auch 450 Gramm sind. Maschenprobe stimmt. Lieben Dank im voraus Liebe Grüße Gabi

DROPS Design 27.08.2018 kl. 10:46:

Liebe Gabi, doch das kann passen - die Garnmengen sind ja nur auf 50 g genau berechnet, weil das die Menge eines Knäuels ist. Wenn Sie bei XL etwas mehr als 400 g benötigen, sind ebenfalls 450 g angegeben. Halten Sie auf jeden Fall die angegebenen Maße und die Maschenprobe ein, damit die Garnmenge reicht. Beachten Sie auch, dass Sie die Lauflänge im Auge haben müssen, wenn Sie ein Alternativgarn verwenden, Sie müssen also schauen, wie viele Meter Garn Sie insgesamt benötigen und das dann auf die Knäuel des alternativen Garns umrechnen - unser Garnumrechner hilft dabei.

Gabriele Heling 16.08.2018 - 19:35:

Liebes Drops - Team, in jeder 2 ten R 1 M vor dem Markierer abnehmen. Also 1. R ohne Zu und Abn 2. R Abn und keine Zum. 3. R keine Zu und Abn. 4. R Zu und Abn.Richtig? Habe jetzt schon ein 2tes Knäuel angefangen und bin bei der 4. Abn.reichen doch nicht 450 Gramm? Was ist damit gemeint vorne und hinten 6 M aufnehmen? Stricke Gr. XL Lieben Dank im vorau

DROPS Design 17.08.2018 kl. 10:08:

Liebe Frau Heling, also bei der 1. Rd nehmen Sie 4 M ab und nehmen Sie 4 M zu, bei der 2. Rd keine Zu- noch Abnahme. 3. Rd: 4 M abnehmen. 4. Rund: Keine 2u- noch Abnahme. Dann sollen Sie 6 M auf den Vorderteil und 6 M auf den Rückenteil gleichmässig verteilt zunehmen = 12 M werden bei dieser Runde zugenommen. Prüfen Sie mal, ob Ihre Maschenprobe in der Breite sowie in der Höhe stimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Margit 12.03.2016 - 17:20:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich würde gerne dieses Modell mit "Belle" stricken. Da Belle aber zu Garngruppe B gehört, bin ich mir unsicher, ob ich es von den Maßen hinbekomme. Oder wie rechne ich das auf meine Maschenprobe um? Danke für Eure Hilfe! LG Margit

DROPS Design 14.03.2016 kl. 08:36:

Liebe Margrit, da dies keine ganz einfacher Schnitt ist, rate ich von einem Umrechnen ab. Versuchen Sie mit Belle die Maschenprobe zu erreichen und entscheiden Sie, ob Ihnen das Strickbild so locker verstrickt noch gefällt.

Celine Claus 08.06.2015 - 20:30:

Hallo. Ich stricke dieses Modell gerade in Größe S. Es wird beschrieben, dass man im 4er Takt Auf- und Abnahmen macht, also in jeder zweiten Runde Abnahmen und in jeder vierten Runde Aufnahmen. Nun habe ich insgesamt 14 mal die Aufnahmen gestrickt, es fehlen ja aber noch die anderen 14 Abnahmen. Das Teil misst jedoch jetzt schon etwa 34 cm. In der Anleitung steht allerdings dass alle Auf-und Abnahmen nach 38 cm gestrickt sein sollten. Was hab ich falsch gemacht?

DROPS Design 15.06.2015 kl. 21:02:

Die Zunahmen und Abnahmen müssten eigentlich ziemlich gleichzeitig enden, da Sie die Abnahmen in jeder 2. Rd machen und die Zunahmen in jeder 4. Rd, aber dafür doppelt so viele Abnahmen wie Zunahmen machen. Sie nehmen also in jeder 2. Rd nur ab und in jeder 4. Rd ab UND zu.

Berit 04.09.2014 - 19:11:

Wie immer: am Diagramm unten!

Moni 04.09.2014 - 14:56:

Hallo, gibt es irgendwo eine Maßtabelle? Bin nicht sicher, ob ich S oder M stricken soll. Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße Moni

DROPS Design 05.09.2014 kl. 08:24:

Liebe Moni, die Zahlen unten in der Massskizze sind die cm. So können Sie ganz genau Ihre Grösse bestimmen.

Wally 02.07.2013 - 21:30:

Hallo. Habe angefangen das Teil in XL zu stricken. Jetzt habe ich mit Knäul 4 angefangen und erst 28 Reihen. Ist es sicher das 450 gr. (9 Knäule) reichen? Maschenprobe kommt hin. Ich habe mir nämlich nur 450 gr. bestellt, da ich euren Angaben eigentlich vertraue. Aber diesmal bin ich ganz unsicher. Danke für eine Antwort. Wally

DROPS Design 03.07.2013 kl. 09:21:

Liebe Wally, dieses Modell wurde schon oft nachgestrickt und wir haben noch nie eine Rückmeldung bekommen, dass die Mengenangabe nicht korrekt sei.

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