DROPS Baby / 17 / 9

Little Gent by DROPS Design

Set of knitted vest and socks with cables for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

SLEEVELESS TOP:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2- 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80(86/92-96/104)
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 14, steel blue

BOOTIES:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2- 3/4) years
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50-100-100 (100-100) g colour no 14, steel blue

SLEEVELESS TOP:
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS no 503: 4 pcs.

BOOTIES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 sts in garter st = width 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 2.15 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 2.15 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. The diagram is seen from the RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round):
K 1 round, P 1 round.

DECREASING TIP (applies to armhole on top):
Dec from RS inside 3 garter sts by P2 tog.
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SLEEVELESS TOP:

FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 50-56-62 (70-76) sts (includes 1 edge st each side, worked in garter st throughout) on needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE.
Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st, P 11-14-17 (21-24), * K2 in each of the next 2 sts, P4 *, repeat from *-* 4 times, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, P 11-14-17 (21-24), 1 edge st = 60-66-72 (80-86) sts.
Work next row as follows from WS:
1 edge st, K 11-14-17 (21-24), * M.1, K 4 *, repeat from *-* 4 times, M.1, K 11-14-17 (21-24), 1 edge st.
Work next row as follows from RS:
1 edge st, P 11-14-17 (21-24), * M.1, P 4 *, repeat from *-* 4 times, M.1, P 11-14-17 (21-24), 1 edge st.
Continue in pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 15-16-18 (19-21) cm work 4 rows garter st on 6 sts each side (work remaining sts as before), AT THE SAME TIME on last row cast off 3 sts at beg of row, work remaining sts on row as before, and cast off 3 sts at beg of next row, work remaining sts on row as before. Continue with 3 garter sts each side, AT THE SAME TIME cast off to shape the armhole each side – SEE DECREASING TIP: 1 st on every other row 4-4-4 (5-5) times = 46-52-58 (64-70) sts. When piece measures 22-23-26 (28-31) cm slip the middle 12-12-14 (14-14) sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3-4-4 (4-4) times = 12-14-16 (19-22) sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm work the 4 sts over cable tog 2 by 2 = 10-12-14 (17-20) sts left on shoulder.
Slip shoulder sts on a stitch holder.

NECKLINE: Pick up approx 30 to 40 sts round neckline (includes sts on stitch holder) on needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 26-28-30 (32-34). K 2 rows and cast off.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 2 sts on neckline = 12-14-16 (19-22) sts. K 1 row from WS and work next row as follows: K 1-1-1 (2-2), K2 tog, 1 YO, K 5-7-9 (10-13), K2 tog, 1 YO, K 2-2-2 (3-3). K 1 row and cast off on next row.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Pick up 2 sts on neckline and work sts from stitch holder back on needle = 12-14-16 (19-22) sts. Work like left shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 50-56-62 (70-76) sts (includes 1 edge st each side, worked in garter st throughout) on needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 rows garter st and continue in reverse stocking st. Cast off for armhole each side as described for front piece and continue until piece measures 24-26-29 (31-34) cm. Now cast off the middle 14-16-18 (18-18) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 10-12-14 (17-20) sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm slip shoulder sts on a stitch holder.

NECKLINE:
Pick up approx 18 til 26 sts round neckline on needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. K 3 rows and cast off.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 2 sts on neckline = 12-14-16 (19-22) sts. K 3 rows and cast off.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Like left shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams inside 1 edge st and sew on buttons on shoulders.
----------------------------------------------------------
BOOTIES:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-52-52 (56-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib, K1/P1 – round beg mid back. When piece measures 4-5-5 (5-6) cm K 3 tog (= K1. P1, K1) mid back, work 4 rounds and then K3 tog again (= P1, K1, P1) mid back = 44-48-48 (52-52) sts. When piece measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-6 (6-6) sts evenly = 38-42-42 (46-46) sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Slip the first 14-15-15 (16-16) sts on a stitch holder, keep the next 10-12-12 (14-14) sts on needle (= upper foot), and slip remaining 14-15-15 (16-16) sts on a stitch holder. Work sts on upper foot back and forth on needle as follows: 2-3-3 (4-4) garter sts – SEE ABOVE, 1 st in reverse stocking st, M.1 (beg on row 4 in diagram), 1 st in reverse stocking st, and 2-3-3 (4-4) garter sts. When piece on upper foot measures 3½-4-5 (6½-7½) cm pick up 8-9-11 (14-16) sts on both sides and slip sts from stitch holders back on needle = 54-60-64 (74-78) sts. Continue in garter st on all sts for 1½-2-2½ (3-3½) cm, now P 1 round and cast off all sts except the 10-12-12 (14-14) sts mid front. Work 9-10-11 (13-15) cm garter sts on these sts for sole and cast off. Sew sole to bootie, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Knit the other bootie in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.01.2009
Sock: AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-6 (6-6) sts evenly = 38-42-42 (46-46) sts.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 17-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (71)

Lee Ann 09.03.2020 - 00:54:

If you do the M.1 on every sixth row what do you do on the other 5 rows?

DROPS Design 09.03.2020 kl. 07:11:

Hi Lee Ann, M1 consists of 5 rows knit, 6th row is cable, then 5 rows knit again. Happy knitting!

Monika Schiller 10.09.2019 - 12:36:

Hallo. In der Anleitung für das Rückenteil steht "Glatt mit der linken Seite nach aussen stricken. " Was heißt das? Hinten also kein Muster, es gibt kein Foto vom Rückenteil. LG

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 14:34:

Liebe Frau Schiller, es bedeutet diese Maschen werden glatt links gestrickt = links bei den Hinreihen und rechts bei den Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Melinda Fülöp 25.06.2019 - 14:54:

Hej Får se om jag har fattat det hela rätt. Vid 19cm så stickar jag 1kantmaska, 6 räta maskor och sen fortsättning på mönstret, och sen de 6 sista m räta. Detta gör jag 4 varv. På sista maskar jag av för ärmhålen. Har jag förstått det rätt?

DROPS Design 26.06.2019 kl. 08:15:

Hei Melinda. 2 riller = 4 pinner. Det stemmer at du nå strikker 4 pinner med mønster som før, og 6 masker rettstrikkning i hver side. Når du feller av til ermhull gjøres dette over de 2 siste pinnene på begynnelsen av pinnen. Du strikker altså 2 pinner med mønster og retstrikkning. Så strikker du den 3. pinnen og feller av til ermhull på begynnelsen av pinnen. Så strikker du den 4. pinnen og feller av til ermhull på begynneslen av denne pinnen. God fornøyelse

Emilie 23.07.2018 - 01:56:

Bonjour, Pour les diminutions du devant du debardeur, il est ecrit « Diminuer côté encolure en début de rang, tous les rangs ». Si c’est en debut de rang, c’est donc forcement tous les 2 rangs? Comment peut-on diminuer tous les rangs en debut de rang sur le meme cote? Merci

DROPS Design 23.07.2018 kl. 08:27:

Bonjour Émilie, tout à fait, on va diminuer au début de chaque rang côté encolure, soit tous les 2 rangs, la formulation a été modifiée, merci. Bon tricot!

Tina Madsen 04.06.2018 - 21:37:

Er det ikke en fejl at efter indtagning til ærmegab er der 52 masker tilbage på str.2 er det ikke 42 masker? Hilsen Tina

DROPS Design 06.06.2018 kl. 15:30:

Hej Tina, i str 6/9 mdr har du 66 masker, nu lukker du 3 m af i hver side = 60 og tager 1 maske ind i hver side 4 gange = 52 masker tilbage. God fornøjelse!

Elizabeth Kondo 24.04.2018 - 07:28:

Wat betekent: brei volgende 2 steken 2 keer?

Elizabeth Kondo 24.04.2018 - 07:26:

Wat betekend 2 steken elk 2 keer breien?

DROPS Design 28.04.2018 kl. 18:19:

Hallo Elizabeth, Je breit 2 keer in 1 steek en dat herhaal je nog een keer. Dus insteken, omslaan, doorhalen, NIET af laten glijden, dan nog een keer in dezelfde steek breien en wel af laten glijden. Dit doe je ook voor de steek daarna.

Anne Lethaby 11.04.2018 - 05:33:

Dear DROPS: I am currently knitting the front with the cables. I don\'t understand your instructions - you state after the 4 rows garter stitch that you knit a row with increases and then starting with the WS you start the cables with \"MI\" and then the next row (RS) you also do a cable (MI) - so you do a MI in alternate rows - do you then knit 5 more rows before going into the cables again? Pls clarify, Thank you so much

DROPS Design 11.04.2018 kl. 09:55:

Dear Mrs Lethaby, after the first 4 rows in garter st, work next row from RS inc as explained. Then start working in pattern on next row from WS working 1st row in M.1 (but no increase anymore). Then continue in pattern from RS as follows: 1 edge st, P 11-14-17 (21-24), * M.1, P 4 *, repeat from *-* 4 times, M.1, P 11-14-17 (21-24), 1 edge st When working M.1 you will knit the cables on every 6th row. Happy knitting!

Claudia 28.03.2018 - 07:31:

Muss es in der Anleitung für die Socken nicht korrekt heißen: Über den Fussrücken ...M kraus, 1M kraus links, M1, nochmal 1M kraus links, ...M kraus. Die zweite Amgabe für kraus links fehlt oder mischt sich verwirrend mit der Angabe für M1.

DROPS Design 28.03.2018 kl. 09:28:

Liebe Claudia, Sie haben Recht, da war etwas unklar vermischt, die Anleitung wurde soeben korrigiert. Weiterhin viel Spaß beim Stricken!

Catherine 18.02.2018 - 13:57:

Bonjour, j'ai un soucis à la fin de la 1ère épaule. ( où se trouve le "col" si on est sur le devant ? ) -Où trouver les 30 à 40 mailles pour le col? sur toutes les mailles du devant + le long du côté intérieur? - On ne parle pas d'explications pour les boutonnières ? -Je ne vois pas d'explications pour les torsades sur les côtés épaules? Merci d'avance pour vos lumières. :)) -

DROPS Design 19.02.2018 kl. 10:00:

Bonjour Catherine, les torsades des épaules se font d'elles mêmes quand on met en attente les mailles de l'encolure et que l'on continue chaque épaule séparément en diminuant pour l'encolure. On relève ensuite sur le col 30-40 m le long de l'encolure uniquement (entre les mailles des épaules en attente). On tricote ensuite les 2 épaules séparément en formant les boutonnières sur l'épaule gauche du devant. Bon tricot!

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