DROPS / 106 / 38

DROPS 106-38 by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with collar in DROPS Ice or DROPS Eskimo. Size S – XXXL

Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL

Materials: DROPS Ice from Garnstudio
colour no 07, blue
850-950-1050-1150-1250-1400 g

Or use:
DROPS Eskimo from Garnstudio
colour no 15, dark blue
800-900-1000-1050-1150-1250 g

DROPS pointed and circular needle (80 cm) size 8 mm - or size needed to obtain 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm
DROPS pointed and circular needle (80 cm) size 7 mm – for garter st
DROPS buffalo horn button, dark, nr 536: 3 pcs

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
55% Cotton, 45% Acrylic
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Moss st: First row: *K1/P1*, repeat from *-*. Second row: P over K, K over P. Repeat second row.

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = cast off third st from mid front, cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures 27, 32 and 37 cm for all sizes.
Increasing tip (applies to collar):
Inc inside 1 garter st as follows: make 1 yo, K yo into back of st on return row. Work all inc sts in garter st.

Back and front piece: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 106-114-122-134-146-164 sts (incl 5 front band sts each side) on needle size 7 mm with Ice or Eskimo and work 3 cm garter st. Change to circular needle size 8 mm and continue in stocking st with 5 front band sts in garter st each side. Remember the knitting tension! At the same time insert 2 Marking Threads (MT) in piece as follows: 1 MT after 29-31-33-36-39-43 sts and 1 MT after 77-83-89-98-107-121 sts (back piece = 48-52-56-62-68-78 sts). When piece measures 15 cm dec 1 st on each side of both MT and repeat the dec when piece measures 22 cm = 98-106-114-126-138-156 sts. Continue in stocking st. Remember buttonholes on right front band! When piece measures 30 cm change to needle size 7 mm and work 4 cm garter st. Change back to needle size 8 mm and work 2 rows stocking st. Now continue in moss st – see above – with front bands in garter st.
Read all of the following section before continuing!

Collar: When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm inc for collar – see Increasing tip - each side: 1 st on every 7-10-10-18-18-18 cm a total of 4-3-3-2-2-2 times. At the same time when piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm inc number of garter sts on collar (i.e. number of sts remains the same, but number of garter sts inc and number of moss sts dec): 1 st on every 7-6-6-5-5-5 cm a total of 5-6-6-7-7-7 times.

Side increases: When piece measures 37 cm inc 1 st on each side of both MT on every 5-3-3-3-3-3 cm a total of 2-3-3-3-3-3 times. When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm cast off 3 sts on each side of both MT for armhole and now complete back and front pieces separately.
Back piece: = 42-48-52-58-64-74 sts. Dec to shape the armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3-5 times and 1 st 1-1-3-3-4-4 times = 40-42-42-44-44-46 sts. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm cast off the middle 8-10-10-12-12-14 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 15 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 67-69-71-73-75-77 cm.

Right front piece: Continue inc for collar and dec for armhole as described for back piece. At the same time when piece measures 57-58-59-60-61-62 cm cast off the outermost 7 collar sts with double thread (= 2 threads) NB! Cast off the first st by K2 tog. On next row cast on 7 new sts (= neckline collar). After all inc and dec are complete = 29 sts left on row. When piece measures 67-69-71-73-75-77 cm cast off the outermost 15 sts for shoulder = 14 sts left on collar. Insert a MT. Continue in garter st on collar as follows: *1 row on all sts, 1 row on 7 sts towards mid front*, repeat from *-* until collar measures 4.5-5.5-5.5-6.5-6.5-7.5 cm from MT on the shorter side. Cast off loosely.

Left front piece: Like right front piece, but mirrored.
Sleeve: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 28-28-30-30-32-32 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 7 mm and work 3 cm garter st. Change to needle size 8 mm and continue in stocking st.
Read all of the following section before continuing!
At the same time when piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st each side on every 9-7-6-5-4-3.5 cm a total of 5-6-7-8-9-10 times = 38-40-44-46-50-52 sts. At the same time when piece measures 14 cm change to needle size 7 mm and work 4 cm garter st. Change back to needle size 8 mm, work 2 rows stocking st and now complete piece in moss st. When piece measures 49-48-48-47-46-45 cm (less on the larger sizes because of larger sleeve cap) dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1-2-3-4-5-6 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm, dec 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 56-56-57-57-58-58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams and set in sleeves. Sew tog collar mid back and sew collar to neckline. Sew on buttons.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 106-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Clare Dick 12.10.2018 - 13:30:

I like this pattern

Carol 25.02.2018 - 19:26:

When knitting the right front piece the directions say to cast off the outermost 7 collar sts with double thread. Does this mean I am folding the collar back and knitting or am I now knitting with double thread (and if so for how long)?? Is there a video that shows what this means? Thank you!

DROPS Design 26.02.2018 kl. 01:15:

Dear Carol, it means that you should use two thread hrld together for casting off. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

SAILLER MH 25.04.2016 - 19:27:

C' est la taille xxl. Pour quelle raison tricoter 2fils ensemble? peut-être pour que ce soit plus rigide ? Merci !

DROPS Design 26.04.2016 kl. 08:28:

Bonjour Mme Sailler, Effectivement, rabattre les mailles avec 2 fils permet d'obtenir une bordure plus ferme. Après vérification, le nbe de maille est juste en XXL: 138 m + 2x1 augm de chaque côté = +4 m. Vous augmentez 3 fois 4 m sur les côtés = +12 m. Vous rabattez 6 m pour les emmanchures = 142 m. Pour le dos, on a 64 m soit 78/2= 39 pour chaque devant. On diminue 10 m pour l'emmanchure, il reste 29 m pour l'épaule. Bon tricot!

SAILLER MH 25.04.2016 - 16:45:

Bonjour. Pour le devant droit, que signifie: rabattre 7m avec 2 fils tricotés ensemble ? et aussi, il me semble qu'il reste 28 m et non 29 après toutes les diminutions sont faites... Merci

DROPS Design 25.04.2016 kl. 16:58:

Bonjour Mme Sailler, on rabat les mailles avec le fil en double au lieu du fil en simple comme on tricote ces mailles. Pouvez-vous indiquer la taille que vous réalisez pour que les vérifications puissent être faites? merci. Bon tricot!

Jeannine 20.03.2015 - 13:57:

Können Sie mir erklären wieso E = 2C und nicht 2B. Wenn ich 2 Fäden , von einer Wolle B nehme , müsste es doch für Nr 8 geeignet sein. Warum wird es nicht einfach verdoppelt? Verhält sich der Garn anders, wenn er doppelt gestrickt wird?

DROPS Design 20.03.2015 kl. 14:17:

Jedes Garn hat bestimmte Eigenschaften, die sich nicht nur auf die Lauflänge beschränken, auch das Material, die Glattheit, "Luftigkeit" etc sind wichtig. Drops-Garne sind so in die Garngruppen eingeteilt, dass sie bestmöglich austauschbar sind bzw. auch beim Doppeltlegen ein gutes Ergebnis und ähnliches Maschenbild bieten. Sie können auch versuchen, mit 2 Fäden B die Maschenprobe zu erhalten statt mit 2 Fäden C (an sich entsprechen 2 Fäden B aber 1 Faden D), allerdings wird das Gestrick dann lockerer. Was bei der Jacke als Sommerjacke ja durchaus erwünscht sein kann, allerdings muss man dann auch beachten, dass sie sich dann etwas mehr dehnen/aushängen wird.

Jeannine 17.03.2015 - 19:08:

Wie kann man diese Jacke stricken, wenn es die passende Wolle nicht mehr gibt? Mit Peak wird es eine Winterjacke und es soll eine Sommerjacke für den Strand werden!

DROPS Design 19.03.2015 kl. 10:37:

Da wir alle älteren und ganz alten Anleitungen dauerhaft zur Verfügung stellen möchten, kommt es leider immer wieder vor, dass das ursprünglich verwendete Garn nicht mehr erhältlich ist. Sie haben aber die Möglichkeit, auf andere Garngruppen zurückzugreifen, in denen es sommerliche Baumwollgarne gibt: Ice gehörte in Garngruppe E, 1 Faden aus Garngruppe E entspricht 2 Fäden aus Garngruppe C (= Garn doppelt genommen) und 4 Fäden aus Garngruppe A (= Garn vierfach genommen). Stöbern Sie dort am besten einfach. Beachten Sie, dass Sie die Garnmenge anhand der Lauflänge neu berechnen müssen.

Jeannine 17.03.2015 - 18:53:

Wie kann man diese Jacke stricken, wenn es die passende Wolle nicht mehr gibt? Mit PEAK wird es eine Winterjacke, und es soll eine Sommerjacke werden für den Strand...

DROPS Design 19.03.2015 kl. 10:39:

Antwort siehe oben! :-)

Lisette 06.01.2015 - 18:15:

Geachte , ik heb een vraagje , daar ik graag dit patroon wil breien , begrijp ik helaas jullie uitleg uit goed , er staat niet duidelijk vermeld hoeveel keren ik moet minderen en meerderen en wanneer ? wil je dit even nakijken ! mijn buurvrouw die heel goed kan breien , voor haar is dat ook een raadsel en kan ook niet aan deze uitleg uit , hoop dat ik vlug wat van je mag horen . grtjs !

DROPS Design 07.01.2015 kl. 15:39:

Hoi Lisette. Er is geen standaard voor dit patroon, je kan minderen of meerderen op de manier je wenst of het mooiste vindt. Bijvoorbeeld 2 r samen breien als minderen of meerderen door een omslag / 2 st in één breien. Alleen bij de kraag geven wij een aanbevolen techniek aan.

Isabel 13.01.2014 - 02:44:

Très mignon

Clare Dick 30.06.2012 - 07:32:

I like it

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