DROPS / 103 / 16

DROPS 103-16 by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with rib in ”Karisma”. Short or long sleeves. Stl S-XXXL.

Tags: jackets,
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
Colour no.16, darkgrey:
Short sleevs: 450-500-550-600-650-700 g
Long sleevs: 600-650-700-800-850-900 gr
and use: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
a remainder of colour no 506, dark grey (for button covers).

DROPS Needles and Double pointed needles size 4 mm - or needle size needed to make 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking stitch on 10 x 10 cm with Karisma.
DROPS Crochet hook size 3 mm – for button covers.
5-6-6-6-6-6 buttons - approx 2 cm in diameter.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking stitch with Karisma = 10 x 10 cm.

Measuring tip: Measures on diagram shows the garment stretched out. The body will be narrower because of the rib pattern, but knit the size you normally use.

Garter stitch: Knit all rows back and forth on needle.

Button holes: Cast off for button holes on right front band. 1 button hole = cast off 6th, 7th and 8th st from front. On next row cast on 3 new sts over the cast off sts. Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
Size S: 4, 13, 22, 32 and 42 cm.
Size M: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36 and 44 cm.
Size L: 4, 12, 20, 28, 37 and 46 cm.
Size XL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 38 and 47 cm.
Size XXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41 and 49 cm.
Size XXXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41 and 51 cm.


Back piece: The whole piece is knitted in rib. Remember the knitting tension! Cast on 94-104-114-126-138-150 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 4 mm with Karisma. P1 row on WS, then knit like this - from RS: 1 edge st, P4-5-6-4-6-4, rib K4/P4 over the next 88-96-104-120-128-144 sts, finish with P0-1-2-0-2-0 and 1 edge st. Continue like this. When piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st in each side every 8-8-9-9-9-9 cm, a total of 4 times – knit the inc sts in reverse stocking sts = 102-112-122-134-146-158 sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-43 cm cast off for armhole in each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-4-5-7-9-10 times and 1 st 2-2-4-5-6-8 times = 84-86-88-90-92-96 sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm cast off middle 30-32-34-34-36-38 sts for neck. On next row cast of another 1 st each side for neck = 26-26-26-27-27-28 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

Right front piece: Cast on 53-62-63-69-79-85 m (includes 1 edge sts in side and 8 sts to front band) on needle size 4 mm with Karisma. P1 row on WS, then knit next row like this from RS: 8 sts in garter stitch, * K4, P4 *, repeat *-* a total of 5-6-6-7-8-9 times, finish with K4, P0-1-2-0-2-0 and 1 edge sts. Knit like this until piece measures 3 cm. Continue like this (seen from RS): 8 garter st, * K4, P12 *, repeat *-* a total of 2-3-3-3-4-4 times, finish with K4, P8-1-2-8-2-8 and 1 edge sts. Remember to cast of for button holes – see explanation above. When piece measures 10 cm inc in side as on back piece = 57-66-67-73-83-89 sts. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm then knit in reverse stocking sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-43 cm cast off for armhole as on back piece = 48-53-50-51-56-58 sts. When piece measures 43-45-47-48-50-52 cm slip the outermost 10-15-12-12-17-18 sts on 1 thread for neck, then cast off towards neck on every other row: 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 2 times and 1 sts 2 times = 26-26-26-27-27-28 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on and knit as right front piece but reversed. Do not cast off for button holes.
Sleeves: Knit in the round on double pointed needles. Note! figures in parenthesis apply to short sleevs. Cast on 56-56-56-64-64-64 (72-72-72-80-80-80) sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Karisma. Knit rib K4/P4. When piece measures 4 cm K1 round at the same time as the numbers of sts adjusts to 50-52-54-56-58-60 (64-68-72-76-80-84) sts. Continue like this: P19-20-21-22-23-24 (26-28-30-32-34-36), K4, P4, K4 (Make sure these comes on top of K4, P4,K4 from the rib), P19-20-21-22-23-24 (26-28-30-32-34-36). When piece measures 8 cm inc 2 sts mid under the sleeve every 3½-3-2½-2-2-1½ (4-4-3-2-2-1½) cm a total of 11-12-14-16-17-19 (4-4-5-6-6-7) times = 72-76-82-88-92-98 m. When piece measures 47-46-46-44-44-42 (24-23-23-21-21-19) cm cast off 6 sts mid under and finish piece back and forth on needle. Now cast of to shape sleeve cap in every side on every other row: 2 sts 4-4-5-5-6-6 times and 1 sts 0-1-1-2-3-5 times, continue to cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 53-53-54-54-55-55 (30-30-31-31-32-32) cm, cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side and then cast off the remaining sts. The sleeve measures approx 54-54-55-55-56-56 (31-31-32-32-33-33) cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder- and side seams and sew sleeves on.
Collar: Pick up 116-116-124-124-132-132 sts (incl sts on threads) around neck on needle size 4 mm with Karisma. Work 7 rows in garter st. Then knit like this from RS: 4 sts in garter st, rib K4/P4 over the next 104-104-112-112-120-120 sts, K4, finish with 4 sts in garter st. When collar measures 12 cm inc 1 sts in every group of purled sts. Knit rib until collar measures approx 20 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

Button covers: Crochet 2 ch with Alpaca and hook size 3 mm, then 5 dc in the first of the 2 ch, finish with 1 sl st in first dc (= 1st round).
2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc in each dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc in the beg of round (= 10 dc).
3rd round: 1 ch, 1 dc in every dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc in the beg of round (= 10 dc).
4th row: 1 ch, 1 dc in every other dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc in the beg of round (= 5 dc).
Put the button inside the cover, sew around edge and pull tight tog.
Crochet 5-6-6-6-6-6 button covers.
Sew on the buttons.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 103-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Lillan 15.04.2019 - 23:46:

Back side: when piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch each side every 9 cm. This will be 4x9=36 cm. There are already 10 cm +36cm= 46cm. Then, when piece measures 39 cm bind off for armholes.....After the above increases, the piece is MORE THAN 39 inches??? I'm confused. Please respond and thank you very much. Lillan

DROPS Design 16.04.2019 kl. 07:42:

Hi Lillan, You bind off for the armholes before you have finished the increases (when the piece measures 39cm). Happy knitting!

Astrid 28.09.2016 - 21:37:

Ik zou over de mouw willen adviseren om eerst het midden van je mouw de te bepalen en dan terug te rekenen waar je je steken moet minderen in de eerst nld r. na de boordsteek. Bij maat M heb ik direct aan het begin 2 steek geminderd en daarna aan het einde 2 steek. Vervolgens heb ik de 1ste 2 steek van de volgende rond op de laatste nld gezet zodat je aan beide kanten 28 steek voor de 4 r-4av-4r hebt. Ik hoop dat dit anderen kan helpen.

Marlene 29.07.2016 - 11:42:

Thank you for the free pattern. It is truly a very nice design with lots of different challenges. I am now nearly finish with the long sleeved version of the cardi, but would advise the translator to use someone with knitting experience in English to validate the pattern. I am sure that it will sort out a lot of small problems re stitches left on needles, etc.

Rosy 09.08.2014 - 19:04:

Bonjour : je souhaiterais tricoter ce modèle, sans manches. Pensez-vous que ce soit possible, sans rien modifier au niveau des emmanchures ? Merci !

DROPS Design 12.08.2014 kl. 11:26:

Bonjour Rosy, c'est effectivement possible, vérifiez la hauteur d'emmanchures sur un vêtement analogue que vous avez - et terminez par exemple par une petite bordure (côtes, point mousse) autour des emmanchures. Bon tricot!

W. Bossers 24.02.2014 - 21:04:

Goedenavond, Ik brei het vestje in maat L met de korte mouw. Voor de mouw heb ik zoals opgegeven 72 steken opgezet. Boven de boord moeten 30 st. av dan 4r. 4 av. 4r. dan weer 30 st. av. Dit is totaal wel de 72 steken maar het komt niet uit boven de 4r., 4 av., 4 r. van de boord. Het zou na 28 of 32 st. moeten een veelvoud van 4. Maar dan zitten de 12 st. niet in het midden en klopt het niet met de overgebleven st. Hoe los ik dit op ? Met vr. gr., W. Bossers

DROPS Design 07.03.2014 kl. 12:42:

Hoi W. Bossers. Zo loopt het inderdaad niet door. Je kan voor de boord de naald beginnen met 2 r dan komt het uit: 2 r, 4 av, (4 r, 4 av) 3 keer = 30 st en dan 4 r, 4 av, 4 r in het midden enz. en ze eindigt dan met 2 r. zodat er onder de mouw 2 r naast 2 r komt.

Anne Loveday 01.10.2012 - 16:48:

I could not understand the sleeve instructions. Are you supposed to use 4 needles? Some of the instructions are not clear e.g. at the same time as the numbers of sts adjusts to 50-52-54-56-58-60 (64-68-72-76-80-84) sts. And the next instruction - are you supposed to still P all the sts which you K on the previous row? And further on, what does in each side mean? And what does inc 2 sts 'mid under' mean?

Susan Niezing 13.08.2011 - 13:25:

Is het mogenlijk de maten aan te geven hoe ik de mouwen op 2 naalden brei ik vind rondbreinaalden vreselijk. hartelijk dank susan

DROPS Design 10.06.2011 - 01:23:

Right front piece: Cast on 53-62-63-69-79-85 m (includes 1 edge sts in side and 8 sts to front band) on needle size 4 mm [US 6] with Karisma. P1 row on WS, ...

Beth 09.06.2011 - 22:37:

Hello, There is an abbreviation on the first line of the right side that says, "inkl". Does this mean "includes?" Thank you!

Zohreh 04.12.2007 - 07:49:

Hello I newly start to knit and I have a problem for knit sleeve. In this pattern for sleeves you describe that : "When piece measures 4 cm K1 round at the same time as the numbers of sts adjusts to 50-52-54-56-58-60 (64-68-72-76-80-84) sts." but I don't understand it! how do sts adjust to 50-52-... ?please guide me.please describe about knitting by double pointed needle. Thanks you.

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