DROPS 103-8 by DROPS Design
DROPS Slipover in ”Silke-Alpaca” with a front piece crossing over. Size S to XXXL.
Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
450-500-550-650-700-750 g, col. no. 9015, middle grey.
DROPS pointed needles size 4.5 mm – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
DROPS pointed needles size 4 mm – for the Rib.
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DROPS Silke Alpaca 80% Wool, 20% Silk |
Discontinued find alternatives | |
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DROPS Needles & Hooks |
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams are shown from the RS.
Measurement tip: Put the work flat on a table when measuring it. All measures are done from the casting on edge.
Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows.
Increasing tip: Inc. inside 4 garter sts as follows: make a yo, on the returning row twist and knit the yo to avoid a hole. (i.e knit into the back of st instead of the front).
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Right front piece (knitted from the left side towards the right shoulder): The front piece are knitted on the slant – see Fig. 1. please read all the explanation + measurement tips before knitting it!
Cast on 30-32-36-38-41-43 sts on needle size 4.5 mm with Silke-Alpaca. Knit 2 rows of garter sts (1st row = WS).
Knit the next row as follows: (from the WS):
4 garter sts – see explanation above - 26-28-32-34-37-39 stocking sts (i.e. P from the WS, K from the RS). inc. 2 sts at the end of row (= Side A) = 32-34-38-40-43-45 sts in total.
Continue to knit as follows (from the RS):
M.1 A (- see the start arrow for size. NB! Knit from the start arrow in diag towards the left until finish row), stocking sts over the next 20-22-30-32-37-39 sts, 4 garter sts. Remember the knitting tension! At the same time inc. at the end of each row from the WS (= Side A): 2 sts 3-3-5-5-6-6 times, 3 sts 4 times and 4 sts 1 time = 54-56-64-66-71-73 sts. Incorporate new sts into M.1 as going along. After 1 repeat of M.1A is completed continue with M.1B until finish. After all inc. knit all sts on row according to M.1B. When the piece measures approx. 20-20-22-22-23-23 cm – Read increasing tips – inc. 1 st at Side A on every 6 rows a total of 14-15-15-16-17-18 times = neck line (knit new sts in garter sts). At the same time when the piece measures 27-29-29-30-32-32 cm cast off 1 st at the beg. of each row from the WS (= Side B) a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times (cast off from the edge =outermost st). Insert 1 MT (marking thread) at the same side as casting off (It marks the side seam). After the last dec. Knit 1 row from the WS and 1 row from the RS as before but knit 10-11-12-13-12-13 sts at the beg. of row from the WS (= Side B) in garter sts. On the next row from the WS cast off 6-7-8-9-8-9 sts at side B for the armhole. Continue with 4 garter sts at the armhole side until finish – knit other sts as before. When the piece measures 56-60-62-65-69-71 cm put 18-19-19-20-21-22 garter sts at side A on a thread or a stitch holder = 34-34-40-40-45-45 sts left on row. Cast off for shoulder at the beg. of each row from the RS at side A as follows:
Size S + M + L + XL: 2 st 3 times and 14-14-17-17 sts 2 times.
Size XXL + XXXL: 2 sts 3 times, 19 sts 1 time and 20 sts 1 time.
When all sts are cast off the piece measures approx. 60-64-66-69-73-75 cm.
Left front piece (Knit from the right side towards the left shoulder): The front piece are knitted on the slant – see Fig. 2. Cast on 30-32-36-38-41-43 sts on pointed needles size 4.5 mm with Silke-Alpaca. Knit 2 rows of garter sts (1st row = RS).
Knit the next row as follows (from the RS):
4 garter sts – see explanation - 26-28-32-34-37-39 stocking sts and inc. 2 sts at the end of row = 32-34-38-40-43-45 sts in total.
Continue to knit as follows (from the WS):
M.2 A (- see start arrow for size. NB! Knit from the start arrow towards the right in the diagram until finish row), stocking sts over the next 20-22-30-32-37-39 sts, 4 garter sts.
Continue to inc. as done for the right front piece but at the end of each row from the RS (= Side A) = 54-56-64-66-71-73 sts. Incorporate new sts into M.2A as going along. When 1 repeat of M.2 A is completed continue with M.2 B until finish. When the piece measures approx. 20-20-22-22-23-23 cm inc. 1 st at side A – read Increasing tips –on every 6 row a total of 14-15-15-16-17-18 times = neck line, knit new sts in garter sts. At the same time when the piece measures 27-29-29-30-32-32 cm cast off 1 st at the beg of each row from the RS (= Side B) a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times. Insert 1 MT at the same side as cast off (marks the side seam). After the last dec. knit 1 row from the RS and 1 row from the WS as before but knit 10-11-12-13-12-13 sts at beg of row from the RS (= Side B) in garter sts. On the next row from the RS cast off for the armhole as done for the right front piece. Contunie with 4 garter sts towards the armhole until finish - knit other sts as before. When the piece measures 56-60-62-65-69-71 cm put 18-19-19-20-21-22 garter sts at side A on a thread or a stitch holder. Then cast off for the shoulder as done for the right front piece (from side A).
Back piece: Cast on 88-100-106-124-136-148 sts (incl. 1 edge st each side) on pointed needles size 4mm.
P the first row from the WS. Continue in Rib as follows: 1 edge st, * K2, P4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 edge st. Continue until the piece measures 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm. Now dec. 1 st in each P section = 74-84-89-104-114-124 sts. Continue with K2/P3 until the piece measures 14-14-16-16-18-18 cm. Change to needle size 4.5 mm. K 1 row from the RS at the same time dec. 4-6-5-12-12-12 sts evenly distributed = 70-78-84-92-102-112 sts. K 1 row from the WS. Continue in stocking sts until finish. When the piece measures 16-16-18-18-20-20 cm inc. 1 st each side on every 2 cm a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times = 76-84-90-98-110-120 sts. When the piece measures 22-23-26-27-30-31 cm knit 2 rows of garter sts over 7-10-10-13-16-20 sts each side (knit the remaining sts in stocking sts as before). Cast off for armholes each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-3-3 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-1-1-3 times and 1 sts 0-1-1-1-1-1 time = 70-72-78-80-86-88 sts. Continue with 4 garter sts each side until finish. When the cast off for the armholes are completed inc. for wide shoulder – read Increasing tips – each side: on every 2-2-1.5-1.5-1-1 cm a total of 8-8-11-11-14-14 times = 86-88-100-102-114-116 sts. When the piece measures 43-45-49-51-55-57 cm cast off for shoulder each side on every other row: 8-8-10-10-11-11 sts 2 times and 9-9-10-10-12-12 sts 2 times.
At the same time when the piece measures 45-47-51-53-57-59 cm cast off the mid 18-20-20-22-22-24 sts for the neck. When all dec. are completed the piece then measures approx. 47-49-53-55-59-61 cm.
Collar: Put the 18-19-19-20-21-22 sts from the thread or stitch holder from the right front piece back on needle size 4.5 mm. Insert 1 MT. Continue in garter sts over the collar sts as follows: * 2 rows of garter sts over all sts, 2 rows of garter sts over the outer most 10 sts *, repeat from *-* until the collar measures approx. 5.5-6-6-6.5-6.5-7 cm from the MT at the shortest side. Cast off loosely. Knit the same way for the left front piece.
Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the collar tog. at the mid back and sew it to the neck line. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge st as follows: The MT which marks the side seam at the right front piece should be sewn to the right side of the back piece where the armholes begins and down to the Rib.
The MT which marks the side seam for the left front piece should be sewn to the left side of the back piece from where the armholes begins and down to the Rib. Put the left front piece underneath the right front piece. Sew the inc. Sts at the bottom of the left front piece to the rib at the right side of the back piece. Sew the inc sts at the bottom of the right front piece at the Rib to the left side of the back piece. The front pieces are now crossed over at the front so the right front piece is on top of the left front piece.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Left front piece: ....
Continue to knit as follows (from the WS):
M.2 A (- see start arrow for size. Note! Knit from the start arrow towards the right in the diagram until finish row), stocking sts over the next 20-22-30-32-37-39 sts, 4 garter sts.
Diagram
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= K from the RS, P from the WS |
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= P from the RS, K from the WS |
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= Cable twist (= 10 sts): put 5 sts on a cable needle behind the work, K5, K5 from cable needle. |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 103-8) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (58)
Agnete
26.05.2020 - 09:34:
Hvis jeg ikke vil have sjalskrave på, kan jeg så bare fortsætte lige op uden at tage ud
DROPS Design
26.05.2020 kl. 14:54:
Carina
20.10.2019 - 10:50:
Hallo zusammen, ich stricke seit Jahren aber hier tue ich mich wirklich sehr schwer. Ich stricke in M und habe den Anfang bis zum Ende M1A geschafft. Es sind noch weitere Zunahmen an der rechten Seite (A) nötig, aber M1B steht nun an. Fange ich jetzt nicht vorne - als rechts in der Zeichnung - an? Wie soll denn sonst der Zopf da rein kommen? Es fällt mir wirklich sehr schwer, die Beschreibung und Zeichnung dazu zu verstehen. Vielen Dank fjür die Unterstützung!
DROPS Design
21.10.2019 kl. 12:42:
Claudia
18.08.2016 - 09:24:
Ich habe große Schwierigkeiten beim Verständnis der Anleitung für das rechte Vorderteil (Größe M). Nachdem ich 34 Maschen habe soll ich M1A stricken, das sind 22 Maschen, danach 22 Maschen glatt und 4 kraus, macht insgesamt 48. Wenn ich die ersten 8 Maschen M1 stricke und nach und nach die neuen Maschen in M1 integriere, habe ich das Problem, dass ich nach allen Zunahmen 56 Maschen habe, also 8 mehr als 48 (22 M1, 22 glatt, 4 kraus). Gruß, Claudia
DROPS Design
27.08.2016 kl. 15:42:
PennyPiste
23.09.2015 - 15:50:
Hei! Aivan ihana malli tämä, mutta ongelmaksi muodostuu etukappaleen rullaus. Kappale lähtee rullaamaan ainaoikeinneuleesta huolimatta (lisäsin jopa kerrokset 4:ään, että kappale pysyisi suorassa). Mitä voin tehdä?
DROPS Design
12.10.2015 kl. 16:07:
Laura Tittensor 15.03.2015 - 17:07:
I am undertaking drops 103-8 but I am struggling with the front pattern, part M1. A. I am about the undertake the section from 'continue to knit as follows (from the RS). I have 32 stitches (smallest size) and the pattern says knit from arrow to the end of the row, but this would only use up 22 of the 32 stitches, the pattern also says to stockinette over the next 20 stitches but I would only have 10 of the 32 left. Please advise, thanks Laura
DROPS Design
16.03.2015 kl. 09:39:
Marja
03.02.2015 - 16:09:
Hei! olen aloittanut työn jo moneen otteeseen mutta ei vain onnistu! Oikea etukpl. Ensimmäiset rivit saan tehtyä. kun aloitan kuvion alkaa vaikeus. M1A eka rivi ok ja nurjapuoli tehdään 2o, 6n, 22n,4 ainaoik, ja lisätään lopussa 2 silmukkaa? seuraava oikean puolen rivi jatkaa kuviota? eli 2n,6o,2n,22o ja 4 ainaoikeaa? M1A kuvio on oikealta puolelta katsottuna eikö? Kiitos jo etukäteen!
DROPS Design
12.03.2015 kl. 16:32:
Liisa Silen
04.01.2015 - 13:00:
Hi! M1. pattern starts from where the size is indicated with an arrow. But does the pattern start from the arrow everytime? or just the first time? And what should I do with the loops that remain after doing the pattern once? should i just continue? Thank you already!
DROPS Design
05.01.2015 kl. 09:13:
Marion Behnke
11.12.2014 - 11:04:
Hallo und guten Tag,leider ist die Anleitung nicht immer klar. Wo kommt beispielsweise beim Rückenteil am Kragen plötzlich der Hilfsfaden her? Selbst meine Schwiegermutter, die schon unzählige, schwierige und anspruchsvolle Teile nach Anleitung gestrickt hat, versteht diese Strickanleitung zum großen Teil nicht. Was bedeutet eine Reihe links auf links? Zwei Reihen links stricken, oder glatt links, das heisst eine linke Reihe und die Rückreihe rechts? Vielen Dank und schöne Weihnachten
DROPS Design
11.12.2014 kl. 14:01:
Marisa De Kock
13.11.2014 - 22:26:
Ik ben al drie keer aan het rechtervoorpand begonnen maar volgens mij doe ik het steeds verkeerd. Ik vind het onlogisch om het patroon van rechts naar links te lezen. Ik brei maat l, kunt u me de eerste 2 nle mailen? Ik snap het gewoon niet!
DROPS Design
04.12.2014 kl. 13:15:
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 262 catalogues and 9726 patterns - 9718 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Vielen Dank! Das war sehr hilfreich. Ich habe das Stricken verkehrt herum gelernt (warum auch immer), d.h. von links nach rechts mit dem Faden in der rechten Hand und lese Diagramme dementsprechend auch von links nach rechts. Das wird mir in solchen Anleitungen manchmal zum Verhängnis ;-).