DROPS / 104 / 33

Daphne Cardigan by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket in ”Alaska” with English Rib and raglan finish. Size: S to XXXL

  • Daphne Cardigan / DROPS 104-33 - DROPS jacket in ”Alaska” with English Rib and raglan finish. Size: S to XXXL
  • Daphne Cardigan / DROPS 104-33 - DROPS jacket in ”Alaska” with English Rib and raglan finish. Size: S to XXXL
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Measurements on diagram may seem small but English rib is very elastic do knit the size you normally knit.
Materials: DROPS Alaska
650-750-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 03 light grey
Yarn alternatives and yardage – see page 2

DROPS circular needles (80 and 40 cm) size 5 mm – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting tension.
DROPS dark buffalo horn button, no 535:
6-7-7-7-7-8 pcs

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Wool
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 16 sts x 27 rows English rib = 10 x 10 cm
English rib: Knit English rib as follows:
1st row (RS): * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row back and front pieces: *P1, yo, slip 1 sts as if to K*, repeat from*-*.
2nd row sleeve: *Yo, slip 1 sts as if to K, P1*, repeat from*-*.
3rd row: *K1, P tog yo and lose sts from last row*, repeat from *-*.
Continuing, repeat 2nd and 3rd rows.
Garter st: Knit all rows.
Decreasing tip (applies to raglan):
Dec as follows from RS:
Start 2 sts before sts with marking thread: K2 tog, K1 (marking thread or stitch marker placed in this sts), slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso. NOTE: Due to English rib it will sometimes be YO and lose sts from previous row that is cast off. Yo and lose sts are then counted as 1.
Buttonhole: Cast off for buttonhole on right front band. 1 buttonhole = cast off 3rd sts on front band. On next row cast on 1 new sts over cast off sts.
Cast off for buttonhole when piece measures:
Size S: 2, 10, 19, 27 and 36 cm.
Size M: 2, 10, 17, 24, 31 and 38 cm.
Size L: 2, 10, 17, 25, 33 and 40 cm.
Size XL: 3, 11, 18, 26, 34 and 41 cm.
Size XXL: 3, 11, 19, 27, 35 and 43 cm.
Size XXXL: 2, 10, 17, 24, 31, 38 and 45 cm. Cast off for last buttonhole on neck edge after sts are knit up around neck.

Back and front pieces: Knit piece back and forth on circular needles from mid front. Cast on 165-180-198-216-240-264 sts (incl 5 edge sts on each side mid front) on needles size 5 mm with Alaska. Then knit as follows (1st row = RS): 5 front edge sts (K these on each row until completed measurement), * K2, P1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with the 2 K and front edge sts. Continue with K over K and P over P until piece measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm. Remember to closed off for button hole – see explanation above. Now knit 2 rows garter sts at the same time as dec 26-33-39-41-45-49 sts on 1st row evenly = 139-147-159-175-195-215 sts (do not dec on front edge sts).
Continue in English rib – see explanation above - until complete measurement. Remember knitting tension! When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm knit next row as follows: 5 front edge sts, 28-30-33-37-42-47 sts English rib as previously, cast off 8 sts (= armhole), 57-61-67-75-85-95 sts English rib as earlier, cast off 8 sts (= armhole), 28-30-33-37-42-47 sts English rib as earlier and 5 front edge sts = 123-131-143-159-179-199 sts in total on needle. Leave piece to one side and knit sleeves.

Sleeve: Knit piece back and forth on needle. Cast on 44-47-50-53-56-56 sts (incl 1 edge sts on each side) on needle size 5 mm with Alaska. Knit Rib K2/P1 with 1 edge sts on each side until piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm. Now knit 2 rows garter sts at the same time as dec 6-7-8-9-10-10 sts on 1st row evenly = 38-40-42-44-46-46 sts. Continue English rib to finished measurement. When piece measures 6 cm inc 1 sts on each side on every 4 -4 -4 -3.5- 3.5 -3 cm 11-11-11-12-12-13 times in total = 60-62-64-68-70-72 sts (knit new sts into English rib continuously). When piece measures 48-48-48-47-47-47 cm cast off 5 sts on each side = 50-52-54-58-60-62 sts left on row. Leave piece to one side, knit another sleeve.

Yoke: Slip sleeves onto same circular needle as back and front pieces where sts are cast off for armhole = 223-235-251-275-299-323 sts. Insert 1 marking thread or stitch marker in all transition between sleeve and back and front pieces. (Insert marking thread or stitch marker in first and last sts on sleeve) = 4 marking threads or stitch marker. Knit 1 round English rib as earlier, but knit stocking sts over 3 sts in each transition between back and front pieces and sleeves (i.e. with marking thread or stitch marker being the middle sts of the 3 sts stocking sts). Continue as follows at the same time as starting dec for raglan: Dec 1 sts on each side of 3 stocking sts (= 8 dec) – read Decreasing tips. Dec on every 4th row 7 times and on every 2nd row 11-12-13-15-16-17 times. At the same time when piece measures 43-45-47-48-50-52 cm slip 6-6-7-8-8-12 sts mid front on 1 thread or stitch holder for neck. Continuing cast off 2 sts 2-3-4-4-7-7 times to shape neckline and 1 sts 4-3-2-3-0-0 times. At completion of all dec for raglan there are 51-53-57-61-71-79 sts left on row. Piece measures approx 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm to shoulder.

Neck: Pick up 1 sts from RS in each sts (incl sts on thread or stitch holder) on front piece where sts are cast off for neck = 79-83-91-99-115-131 sts. K1 row from WS at the same time as dec 3-5-11-13-27-39 sts evenly = 76-78-80-86-88-92 sts. Knit 6 rows garter sts – see explanation above - at the same time, on 1st row cast off for 1 buttonhole above the others on right front edge. Cast off loosely.

Assembly: Sew tog sleeve seams within 1 edge st. Sew openings under arms. Sew in buttons.

Belt: Cast on 10 sts on needle size 5 mm with Alaska. Knit garter sts but slip 1st sts on each row as if to knit and P last sts on each row (this is done to ensure a neat edge). When belt measures approx 170 to 200 cm cast off loosely.


diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 104-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Lauryssens 12.05.2021 - 19:43:

Wat bedoelen ze met 2de nld voorpand en 2de nld achterpand? Welke 2 nld moet ik nu herhalen

user icon DROPS Design 15.05.2021 kl. 14:37:

Dag Lauryssens,

Oeps... een foutje met vertaling van het patroon. De eerste beschrijving voor de tweede naald is voor het achterpand en de voorpanden en de tweede beschrijving voor de mouwen. Het is nu aangepast.

country flag Fran Hoffman 19.12.2020 - 02:53:

When the pattern says to continue in English rib after two garter stitch rows, do I knit a K1, P1 row first, then repeat rows 2 and 3? Or do I start the English Rib with row 2? Also, the English rib shown in the pattern is worked over an even number of stitches. But after decreasing in the garter stitch rows, there is an uneven number of stitches. How do I knit the pattern with an uneven number of stitches?

country flag Claudia Kraft 05.11.2018 - 15:31:

Möchte gerne diese Jacke in big Merino stricken, muss ich etwas besonderes beachten ? Weil diese Wolle sehr elastisch ist ?

user icon DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 16:06:

Liebe Frau Kraft, am besten stricken Sie zuerst eine Maschenprobe und waschen Sie sie, dann die Massen prüfen, am besten mit dünneren Nadeln stricken, aber zwar wird das Ergebnis unterschiedlich sein, da beide Wolle unterschiedlich sein. Nehmen Sie Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf, sie werden Ihnen auch gerne weiterhelfen und vielleicht noch eine andere Alternative vorschlagen - auch telefonisch oder per E-mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag J. Siegel 16.05.2017 - 15:14:

Ik heb een vraag over patroon 104-33 vest met raglan mouw: wat betekent het stippellijntje in het patroon? (linkerschouder). a Alvast bedankt voor uw reactie

user icon DROPS Design 17.05.2017 kl. 11:30:

Dit is de hoogte vanaf waar de raglanlijn stopt tot de bovenkant van de schouder.

country flag Elizabeth Knudsen 24.03.2015 - 13:12:

Jeg strikker ermer på strømpe- og rundpinner med liketall og halvpatent som rettsiden. 1p. (retten): * 1 r/ 1 vr *, gjenta fra *-*. 2.p : * 1 r, 1 kast, ta 1 m løst av p som om den skulle strikkes vr*, gjenta fra *-*. 3.p: * 1 r, (kast + løs m fra forrige p) strikkes vr sm *, gjenta fra *-*. Gjenta 2. og 3.p. Øk 1 maske i beg og slutten av 1.m hver 6.p. Strikk slik at det fortsatt blir halvpatent rundt, dvs annenhv. øking før en rettmaske og annenhv øking før en vr m.

country flag Els-Marie Edelfeldt 21.05.2013 - 17:33:

Tack för snabbt svar. Inkl. kan också stå för inkluderar och då inräknas ju kantmaskorna i de 165. Mvh E-M

user icon DROPS Design 20.06.2013 kl. 12:11:

Du har ingen kantmaskor paa denne kofta - kun de 5 framkantsm i varje sida. Dvs, du stickar 2 rm, 1 am over 153 och afslutar med 2 rm och 5 framkantsm.

country flag Margareta 19.05.2013 - 18:39:

Tja, inkl. brukar ju betyda inklusive, eller?

country flag Els-Marie Edelfeldt 19.05.2013 - 08:24:

Om jag lägger upp 165 m i stl S, (inkl. 5 framk.maskor i varje sida mot mitt fram)så är min fråga: inkluderas dessa framkantsmaskor i de 165 eller lägger jag till dom utöver?

user icon DROPS Design 20.05.2013 kl. 08:58:

De 5 framkantsm inkluderas i de 165 m. Lycka till!

Lonny Mortensen 16.08.2007 - 10:34:

Meget flot og godt tænkt i kompossitionen. Venlig hilsen L. Mortensen

Valkyrja 10.07.2007 - 04:02:

As a novice sweater knitter I love this sweater for it's simple elegance and would LOVE to have this pattern made available for my next attempt.

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