DROPS Baby / 13 / 33

Peter by DROPS Design

Crochet dolls “Peter” and “Pernille” in DROPS Muskat

Tags: toys,
Height: approx 25 cm without hair

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio (yarn group b)
50 g colour no 08, off-white
50 g colour no 09, nutmeg
50 g colour no 60, ice blue
50 g colour no 10, baby pink
With this quantity you can make both dolls, but you also need following for Pernille:
50 g colour no 06, desert rose
DROPS Glitter from Garnstudio
1 roll colour no. 04 rose

DROPS crochet hook size 3
Accessories: Cotton wool for filling.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet gauge: 21 dc for the width = 10 cm.


Crochet 2 tr tog. to 1 tr as follows: Crochet 1 tr but wait with the last pull through (= 2 threads on hook), now crochet the next tr, but when making the last pull through, pull through all sts on hook.

Lace edge: When making the lace edge, do not crochet through the whole st but only the most outer part of the dc. Crochet as follows: *2 ch, 1 dc*, repeat from *-*. The round after the lace edge is crochet in the same round but this time crochet in the back part of the dc.

Colours for Peter:
Legs: 5 rounds of nutmeg, 2 rounds of off-white, 1 off-white lace edge, 15 rounds of baby pink.
Arms: 7 rounds of baby pink, 1 round of off-white, 1 off- white lace edge, *2 rounds of off-white, 1 round of ice blue*, repeat from *-* until finished measurements.
Trouser legs + trousers: Ice blue.
Jumper: *1 round of ice blue, 2 rounds of off-white*, repeat from *-*.


THE DOLL PETER:

See explanation of colours above.
Crochet 2 legs, 2 arms and 2 trouser legs.

Leg: Crochet 4 ch and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 6 dc around the loop, finish with a sl st in the first dc.
2nd round: 1 ch, *1 dc, 2 dc in the next st*. Repeat from *-* (= 9 dc). Finish with a sl st in the first ch.
3rd-21st round: 1 ch, 9 dc, finish with a sl st in the first ch (remember the lace edge according the above explanation).
22nd round: 1 ch, 4 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc (=11 dc). Finish with a sl st in the first dc.
23rd round: 1 ch, crochet 2 dc in each dc = 22 dc. Cut and sew the thread. Fill with cotton.

Arm: Crochet round 1-21 as for the leg, on the next round dec 1 dc as follows: skip a dc (= 8 dc on round). Cut the thread and sew. Fill with cotton.

Trouser leg: Crochet 22 ch and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 1 dc in each ch, finish with a sl st in the first dc.
2nd-4th round: 3 ch, 1 tr in each dc. Finish with a sl st in the first ch. On one of the legs cut the thread and sew. On the other leg cut the thread but don’t sew it as it needs to be used to crochet the legs tog.

Trousers: Put a leg in each trouser leg. Crochet 3 ch with the thread from one of the trouser legs.
1st round: Continue to crochet the legs so they become attach to the trousers as follows: Crochet through both the trousers and the leg. Crochet 1 round of tr around the first leg and then around the second leg.
2nd round: 3 ch, 1 round of tr at the same time dec. every 4th tr as follows: crochet the 3rd and the 4th tr tog. – see explanation above = 33 tr. Finish with a sl st at the beginning of round.
3rd round: 3 ch, 1 round of tr at the same time dec. every 3rd tr as follows: crochet the 2nd and the 3rd tr tog. – see explanation above = 22 tr. Finish with a sl st at the beginning of round.

Jumper: Round starts mid back.
1st-10th round: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st, finish with a sl st in the first ch.
11th round: 1 ch, 1 dc, skip a dc, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in the next st, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in the next st, skip a dc, 1 dc in the following 6 dc, skip a dc, 1 dc in the next st, skip a dc and attach with a sl st in the beginning of round = 16 dc.
12th round: Now crochet the arms to the body as follows: 1 ch, 2 dc, put the arms double at the top of the jumper, crochet 4 dc through both the arms and the jumper. Then crochet 4 dc(=the front) and attach the other arm the same way, crochet 2 dc, and finish with a sl st in the first ch.
13th round: Crochet a lace edge in off-white.

Head: Change to baby pink.
1st and 2nd round: 1 ch, 16 dc around, finish with a sl st in the first ch.
3rd round: 1 ch, *1 dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 24 dc, finish with a sl st in the first ch.
4th-7th round: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st until end of round and finish with a sl st in the first ch.
8th round: 1 ch, 5 dc, in the next st crochet an ear as follows: 3 tr which are crochet tog. in the last pull through ( this means: wait with the last pull through in each tr until all 3 tr are crochet, yrh and pull through all sts). 11 dc, crochet another ear in the next dc, crochet dc until end of round, and finish with a sl st in the first ch.
9th -13th round: Crochet as round 4-7.

Assembly: Fill the body and the head with cotton wool. Sew the opening between the legs, sew on eyes and mouth. Put the head flat, face up and crochet it tog. at the top with dc’s through both layers with baby pink.

Short hair: 1 dc, *5 ch, crochet backwards over the ch’s as follows: Skip 1 ch, crochet 3 dc in each of the next 4 ch, crochet 1-2 dc backwards on the head (depending on how much hair the doll should have)*, repeat from *-* until end of row, cut the thread and sew.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 13-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Christel Jansson 22.06.2015 - 19:37:

Hur gör man huvud o kropp? Hittar inte något skrivit on det?

DROPS Design 24.06.2015 kl. 08:46:

Hej. Om du läser texten i stycket där det står "Tröja:" så hittar du det. Lycka till!

J.de Ruijter 13.03.2014 - 03:25:

Bij het haakpatroon van het truitje van Peter en Pernille staat niet bij hoeveel steken ik moet opzetten en wat voor steken. Ik wil hier graag antwoord op?

DROPS Design 13.03.2014 kl. 17:07:

Hoi J. de Ruijter. Je haakt de truien in verlenging van de broek. Je had hier 22 stk en haak dan verder met de kleur voor de trui over deze stk en volgens de beschrijving voor de trui.

Françoise 12.02.2013 - 17:24:

Je n'ai pas trouvé à quel moment il fallait intégrer les jambes de la poupée, mais je n'ai peut-être pas tout compris..........comme pour les diminutions du pantalon

DROPS Design 13.02.2013 kl. 11:51:

Bonjour Françoise, la partie du pantalon a été corrigée pour expliquer l'assemblage des jambes et de celles du pantalon. Pour diminuer, crochetez 1 B mais ne faites pas le dernier jeté, crochetez la B suiv et au dernier jeté, écoulez toutes les boucles. Bon crochet !

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